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Bovril Delight posted:I'd imagine that is pretty reasonable - no chance for your engine it to really warm up to optimal temps with that short of a drive. Am I hurting my car by driving for 7-15 minutes at a time? The temperature gauge on my car is going to the middle but I imagine it's not all that accurate. 
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Aug 27, 2012 03:48
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I do that in my A3 and I'm terrified I'm coking the engine / sludging the oil. It's recommended that if you ride like that that you take it out on the weekend and do a good 30 min high-speed drive to boil any moisture in the oil out. Supposedly if you can keep the engine right over 3k it goes into a cleaning mode like a self-cleaning oven to burn off the carbon crap from your intake tract. This all may be baseless paranoia. Also mine is a 2007 so it's got the older 2.0 TFSI that supposedly was a little worse with these issues. Regardless I ride my motorcycle instead when I can and am working up to bicycling to work and putting the wear and tear on my knees instead of my engines. On that note if anyone knows a place in the CT/NY/MA area that does the intake valve walnut shell clean for a reasonable price, I'm kinda looking.
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Aug 27, 2012 04:03
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Residency Evil posted:Am I hurting my car by driving for 7-15 minutes at a time? The temperature gauge on my car is going to the middle but I imagine it's not all that accurate. Take her out for an Italian tune up every now and then and you should be fine.
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Aug 27, 2012 12:14
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Residency Evil posted:Am I hurting my car by driving for 7-15 minutes at a time? The temperature gauge on my car is going to the middle but I imagine it's not all that accurate. The biggest issue this will cause is making the turbo likely cake up from not getting up to temp to clean it out, and excess moisture in the exhaust system. Just take it out and run the poo poo out of it every few weekends to give it a good clean up. Not much you can do about the exhaust though.
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Aug 27, 2012 15:19
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Residency Evil posted:Just out of curiosity, is getting 250 miles until the fuel light comes on on the low end for pure city driving? My commute is anywhere between 7-15 minutes and work is 3 miles away. On the highway I was averaging 400 miles+ Sounds about right, I'm lucky to get a little over 300 miles in my A4, and that's not tuned at all. Of course, I drove on the highway all weekend, and eeked out 520 miles from a tank 
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Aug 27, 2012 16:08
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After showing up in 2010 I was so hoping Audi would go ahead with this, and now they are teasing it again! http://wot.motortrend.com/we-hear-audi-sport-quattro-to-return-in-2015-252403.html quote:The Audi Quattro Concept might just have a shot at production. First shown at the Paris Motor Show in 2010, not much has been heard about the well-received concept since. According to Auto Bild, Audi might just bring it back for 2015, to celebrate 35 years of Quattro. I remember originally people saying it would cost as much as an R8 and so it wasn't really worth it, but if they can slot it in between the TT and R8 I would totally buy it.
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Aug 27, 2012 19:39
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For an APR stage 1 tune, are any aftermarket parts required? Any long term issues? This would be for a 2.0T engine (mk6 gti). I know the official APR site says no to both but for obvious reasons I'd like to get further input.
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Aug 27, 2012 22:29
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shyguy posted:For an APR stage 1 tune, are any aftermarket parts required? Any long term issues? This would be for a 2.0T engine (mk6 gti). The tune is designed to work on the stock engine so its fine without any physical mods. Plus if you live in an area where you are putting 93 octane in anyway you can run a tune to take advantage of it. Thats two whole octane more than 91!
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Aug 28, 2012 01:54
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shyguy posted:For an APR stage 1 tune, are any aftermarket parts required? Any long term issues? This would be for a 2.0T engine (mk6 gti). I have put many, many miles on four cars (two 1.8Ts and two 2.0Ts) with APR tunes and never had any problems from the tune. Lots of good info on the golfmkv.com and golfmk6.com forums. Edit: My wagon was Stage 2 and ran like a top. DropShadow fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Aug 29, 2012 |
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Aug 28, 2012 17:42
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My GLI with the 1.8t had APR stage 1 and it was awesome.
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Aug 28, 2012 22:35
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You guys know how I was complaining about massive turbo lag feelings? Well I figured out what the problem was. The wagon threw a P2015 code, and apparently on the TSI engines the entire intake manifold needs replaced when a little flapper inside fails. Awesome. I got the place I bought the car at to generously buy the part which at $208 wasn't too bad and I took care of the labor at $195. Car runs awesome and my granny driving is getting me close to 35 mpg. Now I can focus on some sick modzzzzzz. ( or just a tune )
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Aug 29, 2012 18:18
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Finally figured out the drat P01550 code on the 98 TDI. It's not leaking any oil from the turbo, but it doesn't hold pressure at 18 psi like it's supposed to. Over the coarse of a minute it goes from 18 psi down to 3 psi. Now it's time to put my shopping shoes on and see if I can find a "good deal" on a KKK borg warner turbo. 
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Aug 29, 2012 18:45
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BrownieVK posted:You guys know how I was complaining about massive turbo lag feelings? Well I figured out what the problem was. The wagon threw a P2015 code, and apparently on the TSI engines the entire intake manifold needs replaced when a little flapper inside fails. Awesome. I got the place I bought the car at to generously buy the part which at $208 wasn't too bad and I took care of the labor at $195. Car runs awesome and my granny driving is getting me close to 35 mpg. Now I can focus on some sick modzzzzzz. ( or just a tune ) There is a TSB for the intake manifold flap motor, you might have been covered by that.
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Aug 29, 2012 19:19
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You can still try calling VW and see if they will reimburse you for it, since they would have covered it anyways.
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Aug 30, 2012 00:06
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Thumposaurus posted:You can still try calling VW and see if they will reimburse you for it, since they would have covered it anyways. You'd think they would have mentioned that when I was there. I had the part bought and installed from a local VW dealer. Should I still call and ask?
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Aug 31, 2012 01:24
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BrownieVK posted:You'd think they would have mentioned that when I was there. I had the part bought and installed from a local VW dealer. Should I still call and ask? All they can say is no. VW gave me a new engine so sometimes they feel pretty generous.
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Aug 31, 2012 03:47
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BrownieVK posted:You guys know how I was complaining about massive turbo lag feelings? Well I figured out what the problem was. The wagon threw a P2015 code, and apparently on the TSI engines the entire intake manifold needs replaced when a little flapper inside fails. Awesome. I got the place I bought the car at to generously buy the part which at $208 wasn't too bad and I took care of the labor at $195. Car runs awesome and my granny driving is getting me close to 35 mpg. Now I can focus on some sick modzzzzzz. ( or just a tune ) Same thing happened to mine and VW ended up covering it.
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Aug 31, 2012 04:29
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I just bought a 2004 Golf TDi off a buddy of mine for cheap (...for the area), and I'm pretty sure it needs a new clutch. It never really feels like it fully open, and shifting between gears feels like there's a decent amount of resistance as it goes in. It's been a while since I've driven a manual, so I'm not sure if that's a normal feel for the car. It's not slipping yet though, so I don't know if I should wait on it or not. I just don't like the feel of having to push the car into gear
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Aug 31, 2012 17:06
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PhancyPants posted:I just bought a 2004 Golf TDi off a buddy of mine for cheap (...for the area), and I'm pretty sure it needs a new clutch. Sounds more like it needs a clutch slave/master. Start with making sure there's enough fluid, then bleeding. If that doesn't get you shifting properly it's probably slave/master time. You may even be able to see one or both leaking.
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Aug 31, 2012 17:11
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So I bought a five hundred dollar 1980 diesel rabbit. It's pretty sweet. I'm new to VWs so I have a few questions. From what I gather, it's an "early westy" so the front end is all retarded. The headlights are square-ish, but the blinkers are on the bumper. My car doesn't have a grill. I tried the local VW junkyard to no avail (old dude who runs it doesn't "deal with water pumpers"; he just crushes them) and I also tried the local VW specialist dude and everywhere he called said they don't carry that grill. I should have got the part number from him, but I forgot. I found this website, which at one point sold a reproduction grill for my car. Their online store is all hosed though so I'ma have to call them after the holiday and see if they still carry it. Anywhere else I can find this grill? More generally, what's the best website(s) to order parts for this car? The local VW guy is pretty expensive and is kind of a dick, so I'd rather not deal with him. e: just want to add some illustration for how sweet this car is. It's missing all of the exterior trim except for the rear "volkswagen" emblem, which is primed black. The rest of the car is primed black. Previous owner appears to have tried to fix the body rot since theres some real lovely bondo in a few spots, including on the windshield seal. Front windshield is cracked. Pretty sure I'm going to die if I don't replace the front struts at least, the thing bounces like a bitch on the freeway. None of the windows or doors work properly. It averages me 38 mpg delivering pizza though which is pretty cool I guess. Doesn't really matter though since I'm going to do a WVO conversion once I get a spool of resistance wire in the mail. eighty-four merc fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Sep 3, 2012 |
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Sep 3, 2012 09:36
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Well, I called my local dealer that I had all the work done at and they agreed to refund me my money! Just kidding the service manager laughed at me and hung up the phone. 
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Sep 3, 2012 16:23
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You should be complaining about that letter of customer service to the Service Director or whoever is above that manager. Unacceptable.
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Sep 3, 2012 16:29
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BrownieVK posted:Well, I called my local dealer that I had all the work done at and they agreed to refund me my money! Time to call VWoA and let them know, and then find a new dealer. If you get a survey asking about that service visit, be honest about how you were treated. The service writers' compensation is directly tied to those surveys.
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Sep 3, 2012 16:39
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SLAMMYsosa posted:So I bought a five hundred dollar 1980 diesel rabbit. It's pretty sweet. I'm new to VWs so I have a few questions. Sounds like you're in over your head and finding a grill is probably the least of your worries. That's about the worst spot for rust. Have you checked the front strut towers completely for signs of rust? If your plan is to do a conversion anyway, you'd be better off finding a (gas?) shell that's in better/good shape and just running the one you have now into the ground. By the way, I can't recommend using a 500 dollar Mk1 VW as a pizza delivery vehicle--been there, done that, lost that job due to the car crapping out (again) and not being able to fix it in a timely fashion. Not sure if yours being a diesel helps or hurts you other than it does get batter gas mileage...
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Sep 3, 2012 21:53
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The dealer's not gonna get you anywhere. Call VWoA directly like DropShadow said. Just be aware that the first person you talk to there might not be able to help much either ask to speak to someone higher up if that happens. WHen I called about my engine taking a poo poo the guy I first spoke to said all they could offer me was a $700 discount on buying a new VW. After escalating it VW ended up paying for a new longblock + all the labor to install it.
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Sep 4, 2012 02:19
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PhancyPants posted:I just bought a 2004 Golf TDi off a buddy of mine for cheap (...for the area), and I'm pretty sure it needs a new clutch. My 98 Jetta TDI did this and I waited too long to do anything about it. It was a bad master cylinder. I say that I waited too long because my clutch started slipping because it overheated from always being partially engaged.
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Sep 4, 2012 02:55
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SLAMMYsosa posted:So I bought a five hundred dollar 1980 diesel rabbit. It's pretty sweet. I'm new to VWs so I have a few questions. If maintained properly (hell even if you just change the oil every few years) that engine will outlive the shell. Those old diesels just won't die. Also. http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_I-Convertible-Diesel/Exterior/Body/Grille/
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Sep 4, 2012 16:21
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SLAMMYsosa posted:So I bought a five hundred dollar 1980 diesel rabbit. It's pretty sweet. I'm new to VWs so I have a few questions. I'd recommend you become a member of the TDI club forums which is more or less a specialized forum for all things TDI (Audi/VW): forums.tdiclub.com You'll find a lot of people that own that particular vehicle and get tips from them as to what junk yards to call or even what web sites to get parts from. From what I've read in the past the diesel engine in those is pretty drat good and it's not uncommon to get at least 400k out of them because of how low tech they are. They run a bit dirty, but that's diesel for you.. Even if you have a clean oil filter and new oil in, it will look like it's been driven 2,500 miles just by checking the dip stick, it's the nature of the beast.
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Sep 4, 2012 16:50
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keykey posted:I'd recommend you become a member of the TDI club forums which is more or less a specialized forum for all things TDI (Audi/VW): forums.tdiclub.com Dirty oil is just how diesels work. Even my 2011 TDI has black oil after the first couple miles. It's just soot in suspension, which means the oil is working.
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Sep 4, 2012 19:00
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Opensourcepirate posted:My 98 Jetta TDI did this and I waited too long to do anything about it. It was a bad master cylinder. I say that I waited too long because my clutch started slipping because it overheated from always being partially engaged. Is it a terrible thing to replace yourself?
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Sep 4, 2012 20:32
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thecopsarehere posted:Sounds like you're in over your head and finding a grill is probably the least of your worries. That's about the worst spot for rust. Have you checked the front strut towers completely for signs of rust? If your plan is to do a conversion anyway, you'd be better off finding a (gas?) shell that's in better/good shape and just running the one you have now into the ground. Strut towers are good, I checked before I bought it. The grill is the lowest priority, yeah, but it's also the only part that I can't find since they only made this particular front end for two years at one plant As for delivering in a piece of poo poo car, I'm not too worried about it. I have a om617 mercedes that I know won't crap out so I can always just swap cars mid shift. Also I have never heard of doing a wvo conversion on a gasser. I don't think you can. e: oh I get it. You're saying put the diesel engine in the gas shell. Nah I would rather just do a little work on this one than spend way more money to vet a whole new shell. Plus smog. e2: I am not too worried about the car being a bad investment / unreliable. I've driven it a week already so it's more than paid for itself eighty-four merc fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Sep 4, 2012 |
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Sep 4, 2012 21:42
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SLAMMYsosa posted:Strut towers are good, I checked before I bought it. The grill is the lowest priority, yeah, but it's also the only part that I can't find since they only made this particular front end for two years at one plant Yeah, sounds like you're better suited to deal with this than I thought/than I was and good shells are probably getting harder to come by (?). That's my Jetta's main strength-as it sits waiting for me to dedicate some time/money to it. No inspections of any kind where I was, either.
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Sep 4, 2012 22:13
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http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/the-new-vw-golf-2013 BEHOLD! The new Golf MK7. Summary of features we probably won't get in North America: -Audi Style electronic parking brake -DSG (At least on the Non-TDI models) -Push Button Start -LED?/HID? Headlights -LED Taillights in similar style to the 2013 CC -~5.2 inch screen navigation system -Piano veneer interior finishes and accents -Audi Style dual zone automatic climate control -New steering wheel -Parking Sensors -Hill Hold feature -Soft touch interior -Automatic Parallel Parking System -Drive select (comfort, sport, eco etc) In short, get ready for the Volkswagen Matrix Diesel! Available in only one colour, Beige Metallic. DerDestroyer fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 00:35
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Picture 13 of the article makes it look like a luxury car.
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Sep 5, 2012 02:53
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I've had error code P2015 on my 09 GTI for a while now which indicates some sort of problem with the flapper valve on the intake manifold. I took it to the dealer and they wanted to replace the entire intake manifold for about a grand so I told them no thanks since it seemingly runs fine. A few days ago I saw that the mechanical linkage from the motor to the valve was disconnected. I realigned it and put it back in but it's not snug at all and a few days later I checked again and it was out. I popped it back in and had someone check the motor while I revved the engine. It seemed to move in and out smoothly with the revs so I don't think the motor is bad or anything. I'm assuming the problem is just that linkage popping out from the valve. Does anyone know if there's supposed to be some sort of cap or cover that holds the linkage in place with the valve? Pics for reference  Everything connected  Linkage disconnected drizzle fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Sep 7, 2012 |
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Sep 7, 2012 22:46
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Cruised the last local junkyard today and totally came up on an early Westmoreland grill for my rabbit for 30 bucks. Dude at the front told me the only 79-80 rabbit they had was completely stripped but when I went out there to look at the glass and a few other things he said might be there, I found it was a diesel caddy that was like 90% intact, with a pretty good condition grill on it. Basically only thing missing was a strut and the tailgate. Makes me real sad when I go to a junkyard and I see a caddy in good shape.
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Sep 8, 2012 00:35
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drizzle posted:I've had error code P2015 on my 09 GTI for a while now which indicates some sort of problem with the flapper valve on the intake manifold. I took it to the dealer and they wanted to replace the entire intake manifold for about a grand so I told them no thanks since it seemingly runs fine. A few days ago I saw that the mechanical linkage from the motor to the valve was disconnected. I realigned it and put it back in but it's not snug at all and a few days later I checked again and it was out. I popped it back in and had someone check the motor while I revved the engine. It seemed to move in and out smoothly with the revs so I don't think the motor is bad or anything. I'm assuming the problem is just that linkage popping out from the valve. There's supposed to be a ball and socket to keep the linkage together and yours is gone. Replace the manifold to repair or jigger-rig up a fix.
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Sep 10, 2012 03:50
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Eikre posted:So there's a break in my exhaust system of my 2001 Passat, right before the catalytic converters. There's no bracket missing on that clamp -look at it from the other side of the car it'll look the same as the clamp in the picture. That flex joint in the exhaust goes bad all the time. We farm ours out to a local exhaust shop that cuts the flex out and replaces it for about $200. Since you've got a V6 that flex pipe can only be replaced by replacing the cat as well since its all one piece. Its a brutal job and the cat is around $700 so that's where the dealership "stooge" got his quote.
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Sep 10, 2012 03:59
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Well, okay. What are my options? Is there a reputable third-party source for the cat? Is it really impossible/non-cost-efficient to cut the joint and wield in a new flexjoint, or is that just something a dealership isn't willing to do? And I just wrapped that whole gap in the shiny HVAC tape they put around air ducts in buildings, so now my car doesn't sound like an exploding jet-engine on wheels. It's nice, but I'm sort of weary of a solution that was so easy to preform. The heat tolerance of that stuff should be like 250 degrees or something and the inside of the roll proudly proclaims it's useful for "some automotive purposes" so maybe I shouldn't be worrying, but I thought I'd ask. I just don't want my rear end in a top hat to catch on fire.
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Sep 10, 2012 18:17
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Most any decent muffler/exhaust shop can cut out that flex and weld in a new one. We don't do it at the dealership because it's hard to guarantee a weld-in part for any length of time. Though it's expensive, replacing the cat and flexpipe is a 100% sure fix with little to no chance of leaking a week or a month down the road. If it were my car, I'd weld in the flex because if it fails I'll just re-weld it but for a customer it can be a hassle to come back for a repair to a part that was just installed.
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Sep 12, 2012 00:59
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