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Lethemonster posted:What is the best way to remove paint from skin? I am covered in rustoleum white primer and the stuff just wont scrub off. I use a beard trimmer to take my goonbeard down to a fine stubble. Then I rub my hands across my face until they are red raw and I wear a beard of flesh. Then I use hot water and Fairy liquid.
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Sep 5, 2012 04:03
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So who makes big things of greenstuff / modeling putty that isn't stupidly expensive (i.e. GW)? Also, does anyone have any experience with Instant Mould? Looks pretty nifty but I'm not sure if it really works as well as they are saying. Have my marine chest pieces, kneepads, and shoulderpads all sculpted and I figure I might as well experiment with both resin and greenstuff and see what suits my needs best. Resin is kind of scary but since I plan on casting the whole front half of the torso it will probably be a better option. Pretty sure I can just press-mould the shoulderpad symbol and maybe the kneepad, since it's just some extra sculpted armor plating with a few rivets. Hopefully the detail won't get lost using greenstuff. Finally, question about the torso mould: If I'm using resin can I just a one piece mould of the front half? Like just press the torso into the moulding material until it is level, let it cure, take it out, and pour resin in it until the resin is level? Seems like it would be a lot easier than making some lego-wall or 2-part squash mould or something like a lot of the tutorials show, but I dunno if resin is too finicky for that or has a problem being in the open air or something. Any ideas?
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Sep 5, 2012 04:30
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I've been making some casts with Instant Mould, and tried a few different compounds. Best so far has been http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003ALAZS8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1346817203&sr=8-3&keywords=magic+sculpt Magic Sculpt. It is available in large quantities for a reasonable price, and is excellent at casting detail. My friend had a lot of Empire knights whose horses were missing tails, and 20 tails barely put a dent into the 5 lb. box of Magic Sculpt I have. Instant mould is very easy to work with, just make sure to get it as hot as possible. Press moulding should work for torso halves, or other stuff with a flat end and no detail on that side. Green stuff takes detail very well, but is slightly soft and rubbery. Milliput is very hard but brittle, and it will leave a film on your instant cast and eventually ruin its non-stick properties.
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Sep 5, 2012 04:58
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Bionic Psyker posted:I've been making some casts with Instant Mould, and tried a few different compounds. Best so far has been Awesome, that looks perfect. When you say greenstuff is softer, how soft would you say it is compared to the plastic GW kits are made of? I don't want anything super brittle because I want to actually play with them, but I also don't want it to be so soft that it gets smashed or holds brushstrokes or something.
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Sep 5, 2012 05:13
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The toenails on the Helbrute creep me the gently caress out.
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Sep 5, 2012 05:22
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bhsman posted:The toenails on the Helbrute creep me the gently caress out. Oh god me too. They have a Troma vibe to them that rubs me the wrong way.
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Sep 5, 2012 05:27
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Hello! makin' a crosspost. Just getting back into tabletop and painting recently. Here is an Ahriman that I just finished.   Sorry for the lovely cell phone pics and lack of a fancy photo booth. Criticism is welcome, I want to get to where i'm not embarrassed to put things on the table, or show people on the internet. My self evaluation so far; I put the most effort into the robes, as for the rest of it I think it is both the picture and the paintjob. The ridges on the bones are much lighter and the spaces between darker, and the bronzed metal effect is more obviously a frame for the bones in real life. At the same time I was trying to make the skin on the backpack and the faces of the poles greyish, fleshy but a little pallid, with more brown on the bones. I can't really see that the difference between them, and one of the bigger things I am worried about is mixing a lot of colors together wrong and coming out with a boring monochrome(ish) scheme. It looks like my next hobby project should be setting up a place to take pictures.
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Sep 5, 2012 06:02
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Honey Badger posted:So who makes big things of greenstuff / modeling putty that isn't stupidly expensive (i.e. GW)? Greenstuff, when not marked up by Games Workshop, is sold as Kneadatite blue/yelllow. Should be cheaper for considerably larger volume of exactly the same product.
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Sep 5, 2012 06:17
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Doing some cross posting. Should have oathed this guy, but wasn't sure if I'd finish him. Oh well! Infinity miniatures are amazing but god drat hard to paint.
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Sep 5, 2012 07:03
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This seems like a stupid question, as much of it as I've already assembled, so think of it more as a crowd poll: What's the best glue for resin, particularly heavy resin?
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Sep 5, 2012 08:06
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Red Shoe posted:I like the sound of EZ water. I would be pouring it onto painted gap filler on top of MDF so I don't think the heat would be an issue. Do you know if the water will accept coloration without interfering with the process? Specifically, Vallejo Smoke in this case. If you're doing colored water then your only option is cold resin or Envirotex. Its what GW uses for their display boards for a reason. Just make sure it doesn't touch any unpainted foam because it will render that into a sloppy paste. Envirotex is good for areas of water that need to be less than a few CM thick, anything denser and you'll need resin. Example of a well done resin piece: http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/49 Envirotex is actually a gloss like you would use on a bartop. It dries into an incredibly shiny layer about a few MM thick (hence why its used to protect bartops, tables and that sort of thing). It's tough, it just doesn't do depth that well, but it will hold color if you mix it in. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 11:30
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Fix posted:This seems like a stupid question, as much of it as I've already assembled, so think of it more as a crowd poll: What's the best glue for resin, particularly heavy resin?
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Sep 5, 2012 12:00
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Honey Badger posted:Awesome, that looks perfect. When you say greenstuff is softer, how soft would you say it is compared to the plastic GW kits are made of? I don't want anything super brittle because I want to actually play with them, but I also don't want it to be so soft that it gets smashed or holds brushstrokes or something. The casts I've done with greenstuff have been considerably softer than GW plastics. Like you can indent them with your thumbnail. Some people really like it though. Or you could try kneadatite brown or grey stuff, which cures harder. Definitely don't buy the GW brand at least, the kneadatite stuff that's sold I think as a plumber's or handyman's putty is the same stuff.
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Sep 5, 2012 14:02
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moths posted:Technically 28mm translates to 1:56, but Space Marines run a little small for scale. That's cool, thanks for the link - the cars seem to be the perfect size so I'm going to make a barrier or two out of 'wrecked' versions...it'll be a nice change of scenery, so to speak!
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Sep 5, 2012 14:07
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Done painting, now I need to make a special Y2.3K base. 
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Sep 5, 2012 14:44
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pucapuca posted:Done painting, now I need to make a special Y2.3K base.  That's so cool
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Sep 5, 2012 14:47
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El Estrago Bonito posted:If you're doing colored water then your only option is cold resin or Envirotex. Its what GW uses for their display boards for a reason. Just make sure it doesn't touch any unpainted foam because it will render that into a sloppy paste. Envirotex is good for areas of water that need to be less than a few CM thick, anything denser and you'll need resin. That's a great tutorial, thanks for the link.
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Sep 5, 2012 15:19
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Flipswitch posted:Super glue? do you mean brands? I always use Gorilla glue, because that poo poo is ridiculously good. Doesn't Gorilla Glue expand?
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Sep 5, 2012 15:57
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Fix posted:Doesn't Gorilla Glue expand? Not the Gorilla Super Glue. Just the normal stuff.
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Sep 5, 2012 16:35
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Fix posted:Doesn't Gorilla Glue expand?
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Sep 5, 2012 16:39
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So I just made these dudes for blood bowl but now everyone is getting excited about starting up a Necromunda league. I still win?!
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Sep 5, 2012 16:41
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BigDumbWhale posted:Not the Gorilla Super Glue. Just the normal stuff. Ah. Ok, I'll give it a shot, thanks. I picked up a couple of these flying junker ships for my next board project. They're really cool, great casts and everything, but that is one giant hunk of resin, with a bunch of wispy thin panels and poles that attach to it. I may have to paint up sections of it before gluing them on, so that'll be interesting, to see if I can get those to stick. 
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Sep 5, 2012 17:13
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That thing looks boss, where is it from?
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Sep 5, 2012 17:21
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Fix posted:This seems like a stupid question, as much of it as I've already assembled, so think of it more as a crowd poll: What's the best glue for resin, particularly heavy resin? For heavy stuff like my Thunderbolt, I use Araldite Rapid.
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Sep 5, 2012 17:35
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Fix posted:Gorilla Glue I've been using Gorilla super glue for a long time now. Used it on some Forge World resin models, and it doesn't stick right away like it does on plastics. It's just like gluing metal.
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Sep 5, 2012 17:35
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Ashcans posted:That thing looks boss, where is it from? Industria Mechanika. Based off artwork by Ian McQue. They do limited runs of really weird and interesting designs. This one is sold out, now, but you can have them update you if they do another run. I'd been waiting on this one for a good long while. Pricey, but I think I'm going to get a lot of use out of these. I'd better, anyway.
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Sep 5, 2012 17:49
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Do you use the boats for Infinity or 40K or something else?
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Sep 5, 2012 17:57
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krushgroove posted:Do you use the boats for Infinity or 40K or something else? Both, ideally. They're to be part of an Infinity board, but I was hoping to figure out a way to fit them into an Ork army. Allied Grots in flying boats counts-as-Dark Eldar or something dumb like that.
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Sep 5, 2012 18:07
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Fix posted:Both, ideally. They're to be part of an Infinity board, but I was hoping to figure out a way to fit them into an Ork army. Allied Grots in flying boats counts-as-Dark Eldar or something dumb like that. If by something dumb you mean the best idea I have ever heard then sure.
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Sep 5, 2012 19:33
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What is the name of the product that is essentially a nice, premixed pvc glue + sand? Google is failing me.
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Sep 5, 2012 19:54
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counterspin posted:What is the name of the product that is essentially a nice, premixed pvc glue + sand? Google is failing me. Vallejo Black Lava is the one most people (including me) pimp in this thread. It's not really glue though, in that it isn't good for gluing anything except itself to th e base. But it spreads well and has good texture.
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Sep 5, 2012 19:59
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Fix posted:Industria Mechanika. Based off artwork by Ian McQue. Michael Fichtenmayer, the guy who founded Industria Mechanika, has a really awesome personal blog. Mostly focusing on modeling/painting his own products; but they are really thorough step by steps Check it out here
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Sep 5, 2012 21:17
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Holy poo poo those are some good links. Those guys make me jealous as hell, beautiful illustration, graphic design, and 3d work all together in blog like that. Unf
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Sep 5, 2012 22:29
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2 trukks built, all in a good evening's worth of work (lovely camera phone pictures incoming):  
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Sep 5, 2012 23:55
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Daedleh posted:2 trukks built, all in a good evening's worth of work (lovely camera phone pictures incoming): Gorkamorka? Please continue to inspire me, sir! 
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Sep 6, 2012 02:34
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I need to get some inspiration and motivation to get back to painting. I just can't feel comfortable putting money down to replenish the paints I've ran out of and get new models to paint if I can't come up with something more interesting than Chaos Black space marines.
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Sep 6, 2012 03:44
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Chance II posted:So I just made these dudes for blood bowl but now everyone is getting excited about starting up a Necromunda league. I still win?! Everyone's favorite football team, the Fightin' Gandhis.
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Sep 6, 2012 04:12
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Cross posting! Almost done with these Wulfen. I could put some more effort into cleaning up some of the details, but there are just so many fiddly strings and talons. I like how they turned out though. The Chaos bits aren't terribly obvious like I thought they would be. I was super surprised how the skin turned out.  GW's guide to painting skin actually helped me out alot.
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Sep 6, 2012 09:33
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Bavius posted:Cross posting! These are looking great man, only thing I would suggest would be hitting the teeth with a brown or sepia wash to tone them down a little.
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Sep 6, 2012 10:04
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counterspin posted:What is the name of the product that is essentially a nice, premixed pvc glue + sand? Google is failing me. Pumic gel.. It comes in a few different textures and varieties, ranging from fine to extra coarse, and there's even a crackle-based one that can give a neat cracked look that would be good for a lava floor effect. You can usually find this particular brand at Michaels, though I'm sure there's other brands out there that do the same thing.
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Sep 7, 2012 08:00
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