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Can someone toss me a good recipe for a dark grey tone? I am doing a test model for pre-heresy Word Bearers and I don't want to do black armor because unless you are an amazing painter it usually looks like poo poo, and there are already way to many chapters with black armor anyways. I'm thinking a warmer dark grey, like maybe mix in a touch of snakebite leather or something? But I'm not sure which grey to start with as a base since the only one I've ever used is codex grey and that's too light.
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Sep 7, 2012 22:56
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Start with P3's Thornwood Green or GW's Skavenblight Dinge for an easy dark grey.
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Sep 7, 2012 23:00
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Anybody got any particularly good tips/techniques/tutorials for using brass etch? This model I'm working on has got a ton of fiddly detail bits made of the stuff, many of which are supposed to attach using little surface area. Super glue does not seem to be cutting it.
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Sep 8, 2012 02:06
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Never worked with it myself, but the one tip I do know is to use regular clear tape to apply the brass etch. Take the piece of tape, put the brass piece on face down on the sticky side, put glue on the brass piece, and use the tape to position the brass piece properly.
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Sep 8, 2012 02:17
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Huh. That makes pretty good sense. Won't work for a few of these, but I can see that saving me a lot of hassle, thanks.
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Sep 8, 2012 02:44
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Bavius posted:Cross posting! What colour was used for the armor? By the look of it it looks like GW shadow grey, which I use as a base for my tau, and I'm going to run dry soon. I'm using a pot from 2004. If there's a vallejo equivalent I'd rather use that.
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Sep 8, 2012 02:47
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Fix posted:Anybody got any particularly good tips/techniques/tutorials for using brass etch? This model I'm working on has got a ton of fiddly detail bits made of the stuff, many of which are supposed to attach using little surface area. Super glue does not seem to be cutting it. There's a link to a nice tutorial somewhere in my post history in this thread, lemme find that and edit it in here. Come to think I'm pretty sure MSP provided it, heh. That was fast, here you go: MasterSlowPoke posted:Not sure if this is going to help, but I've heard this video is good for alleviating brass etch issues: Thanks dude. I muddled though this time but I'll definitely try that technique out for my Land Raider.
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Sep 8, 2012 02:59
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The VGC equivalent is Sombre Grey.
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Sep 8, 2012 03:01
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~crossposte~ since I finally got around to decent shots of Calandra  
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Sep 8, 2012 05:08
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Fyrbrand posted:There's a link to a nice tutorial somewhere in my post history in this thread, lemme find that and edit it in here. I'd have assumed that q-tips on superglue would be a no-no, but that's probably my fault for using quick dry gel stuff.  This is becoming the most fun I've had putting together a model for a long while. All the various fins and poles stuck on there are magnetized for transport, and there's still a ton of random poo poo to go.
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Sep 8, 2012 05:39
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Fyrbrand posted:~awesome~ Edit: Also, any advice to fill out a 15pt. troll army if I do go for it? Twistershift fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Sep 8, 2012 |
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Sep 8, 2012 07:07
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Fix posted:Anybody got any particularly good tips/techniques/tutorials for using brass etch? This model I'm working on has got a ton of fiddly detail bits made of the stuff, many of which are supposed to attach using little surface area. Super glue does not seem to be cutting it. http://www.youtube.com/user/ParaGrafixModeling?feature=watch
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Sep 8, 2012 07:10
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Fix posted:I'd have assumed that q-tips on superglue would be a no-no, but that's probably my fault for using quick dry gel stuff.
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Sep 8, 2012 16:26
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I'm looking for something that I can use for 28mm cammo netting. I tried dying some bandage gauze, but the gauze didn't really have enough definition, as the strands don't really stay together.
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Sep 9, 2012 01:39
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Anyone know where I can get some (chaos?)guard heads and some lasguns? I would need a set of 50... I bought some of the Mantic Coorporation guys for my IG allies but they only have 3 head varriations for the most part and they are a little lame. Also their guns are really thin, I don't think they're heroic scale weapons.
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Sep 9, 2012 01:51
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Anyone know where I can get some (chaos?)guard heads and some lasguns? I would need a set of 50... Maxmini, Scibor, Kromlech and Pig Iron are your best options. Maxmini does straight up cultist heads, Kromlech and Scibor do a variety and Pig Iron does a wide variety of different types of Guard heads.
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Sep 9, 2012 02:13
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Cyclomatic posted:I'm looking for something that I can use for 28mm cammo netting. I tried dying some bandage gauze, but the gauze didn't really have enough definition, as the strands don't really stay together. How about this You could also try cheesecloth, it would probably be better than gauze.
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Sep 9, 2012 02:34
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So I made a thing. It's going on a city fight type board. It's supposed to be an unearthed/really old eldar thing. I was going for broken asphalt with dirt underneath. Also it was pretty easy to make!
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Sep 9, 2012 03:02
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Looks cool, but for as clean as it is it looks like it fell out of space, rather than having been dug up. What's it made of?
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Sep 9, 2012 06:24
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Fix posted:I'd have assumed that q-tips on superglue would be a no-no, but that's probably my fault for using quick dry gel stuff. I use an old dead brush, that isn't much good for anything else, to clean up excess super glue. It's only good for a couple of mistakes per brush, but well in this hobby dead brushes tend to be fairly plentiful, if you've been painting more than 6 months, in my experience.
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Sep 9, 2012 06:35
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Fix posted:Looks cool, but for as clean as it is it looks like it fell out of space, rather than having been dug up. It's just a thin piece of plywood cut out on a band saw. The gems are made from drops of epoxy. The base has Styrofoam in the middle with a bunch of rocks and sand out of my backyard glued to the back of a CD. It is a little too clean. I've never weathered anything before. I might pick up some weathering powders next time i get a chance and give those a try.
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Sep 9, 2012 07:05
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 Removed the stupid-looking topknot and replaced it with a hood. Improvement?
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Sep 9, 2012 10:36
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Pickled Foetus posted:
Definitely. Also, get rid of those mould lines.
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Sep 9, 2012 13:43
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"...It's a poo poo business really."
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Sep 9, 2012 13:45
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Whoo I sold my screamers for £35 and have been commissioned to paint some more sets! Also went onto CMON with a 7.2. I'm so chuffed. It's impossible to find a job where I live with the course I'm doing so being able to make some money off something I'd be doing anyway is great. It's not much but it feels good after months of hopeless student-job hunting! Having someone look at something you've done and say 'yeah I'll pay money for that' is amazing. And the guy I painted tanks for previously bought me some scenery as a thank you :3 Keep posting more awesome stuff in this thread folks - I've still be painting from the pot and drawing on giant blob eyes if this thread didn't exist.
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Sep 9, 2012 13:59
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Semi cross post from the 40K thread. I have finally finished my wraiths, although I haven't based them as one thing that stood out from people's thoughts of my last lot is how the models look great but the bases not so great. So I'm considering ideas to give them nice bases to really complement the model. Incidentally the mould line on the tails aren't that obvious in person and I'm terrible at getting rid of them anyway, so as it runs down the entire length I left it there.   Obligatory posed image.  Apologies for the overexposure but the sun was really starting to shine in. This is the current total of my painted infantry.  This is the current total of my painted vehicles. Although the greebles on the top of the Ghost Ark ribs will be painted depending on if I get a second ark or not.  Not pictured is my original Monolith as it looks terrible and is awaiting a repaint. I just have 5 incomplete warriors to finish when I get the parts, 12 scarab bases and Imotekh to paint, and another Night Scythe to assemble and paint. drat this hobby.
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Sep 9, 2012 17:14
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Dude don't drat the hobby, you're absolutely killing it.
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Sep 10, 2012 04:19
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Alright - finished painting a few models after the big GT at my local store. It inspired me to finish some poo poo.  I'm feeling really inspired to get my space men painted now - I hope that sticks with me. e: Also - I know snoopy here has a black nose,  .
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Sep 10, 2012 05:52
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Any suggestions for a mini suitable for use as a female dragonborn in D&D? All I've turned up is this one by reaper: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/half%20dragon/sku-down/03403 This would need extensive conversion, as the character wields a halberd, the head does not wow me from the pictures on reaper's site, and I think the player wants a tail.
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Sep 10, 2012 07:32
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I thought I'd paint something for the first time in a long while, but when I did a quick inventory 99% of my Games Workshop flip-top paints that aren't inks or washes are solid blocks. Most of them aren't more than a few years old.  No problems with any Vallejo paints, or even the old hexagonal Cote d'Arms paints that I bought in 1995  So I need to buy a load of new paints, but gently caress GW (also I see they've changed their entire range and I'm confused). What's good from who nowadays? Do VGC/VMC paints still separate easily? Do their metallics still suck?
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Sep 10, 2012 10:39
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Myopic posted:I thought I'd paint something for the first time in a long while, but when I did a quick inventory 99% of my Games Workshop flip-top paints that aren't inks or washes are solid blocks. Most of them aren't more than a few years old. I'm switching over to mostly VGC, and the separation issues are most noticeable with older yellows and bright reds from what I have seen. Their metallics aren't bad, but I've mainly been using them for drybrushing layers so I may be getting false positives.
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Sep 10, 2012 11:00
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Myopic posted:I thought I'd paint something for the first time in a long while, but when I did a quick inventory 99% of my Games Workshop flip-top paints that aren't inks or washes are solid blocks. Most of them aren't more than a few years old. I've had to throw away every VGC I've ever bought as its separated and formed a big lump of pigment in the pot that doesn't break up, every loving time, the VMC and the airbrush paints are a hell of a lot nicer, I'd stick with them if you're determined not to use citadel but I think their new paint range is really really good.
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Sep 10, 2012 12:24
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What is the difference between the Vallejo Game and Model ranges? From what I've seen the Model range has tons of colors and with the Game range they try to match the Citadel paints. Also, for long-term storage, does shaking the bottles every now and then help? Or even turning the bottles every now and then?
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Sep 10, 2012 12:36
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Fearless posted:I'm switching over to mostly VGC, and the separation issues are most noticeable with older yellows and bright reds from what I have seen. Their metallics aren't bad, but I've mainly been using them for drybrushing layers so I may be getting false positives. Yeah, they drybrush fine in my experience, but the metallic particle size is massive in comparison to other manufacturers which makes them really lumpy when painted on. Thinning them doesn't change anything. That's the case with the ones I have at least. It's been a long while simce I bought any, they may have changed. C-C-C-oval office posted:I've had to throw away every VGC I've ever bought as its separated and formed a big lump of pigment in the pot that doesn't break up, every loving time, the VMC and the airbrush paints are a hell of a lot nicer, I'd stick with them if you're determined not to use citadel but I think their new paint range is really really good. Strange, mine are still fine. No way am I replacing every single colour I lost with more GW paints that'll just dry out somewhere down the line, but are there any that are absolutely unmissable? Like say a red with awesome coverage compared to every other manufacturer or something. Are their metallics still awesome? krushgroove posted:What is the difference between the Vallejo Game and Model ranges? From what I've seen the Model range has tons of colors and with the Game range they try to match the Citadel paints. VMC are more muted usually - i.e. there are tons of drab greens and greys for painting historical kits. Also they seem more fragile when they're on the model, but nothing varnish can't fix. Dunno if there are any other differences. quote:Also, for long-term storage, does shaking the bottles every now and then help? Or even turning the bottles every now and then? Quite probably. I'm pretty sure some of these pots lasted longer than this while they were in active use, but I just sort of forgot about them. How are P3 paints? Any other brands people can recommend? And does anyone know where I can get my hands on some of that Liquitex acrylic spray paint people were talking about earlier (UK resident here)? poo poo looks awesome. Oh, and a decent, cheap white spray primer, if such a beast exists.
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Sep 10, 2012 12:57
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krushgroove posted:What is the difference between the Vallejo Game and Model ranges? From what I've seen the Model range has tons of colors and with the Game range they try to match the Citadel paints. VGC uses a tougher resin so it'll stand up better to repeated handling. The trade-off is that it has a satin-y sheen to it, where VMC has proper matte colors and a much larger range of colors available. VGC also dries faster than VMC. For storage of VMC paints at least, I would store them upright and have a handful of those long wooden coffee stirrers ready for when I was going to paint again. You can pop off the dripper and coffee stirrers are the perfect size for the bottles.
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Sep 10, 2012 13:02
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Anyone know any good tutorials on doing those Infinity Tron-style recessed lights, like the lines/sockets in weapons and armor?
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Sep 10, 2012 13:07
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^^^ try looking for an object source lighting tutorial? I think there's at least one in the OP, someone posted a bunch of tutorial links just recently also. Thanks for the info on the VGC/VMC, I've been curious about them since I got back into painting. I'm all about Vallejo but have been really impressed with the Citadel base paints too - and I'd told myself I wouldn't be touching any paints from the GW store!
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Sep 10, 2012 13:25
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krushgroove posted:^^^ try looking for an object source lighting tutorial? I think there's at least one in the OP, someone posted a bunch of tutorial links just recently also.
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Sep 10, 2012 13:36
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P3 paints are good and have some really interesting colours. Are they a massive step up from GW paints? I would say not. Everyones best bet is just to get a variety of different paints from different manufacturers.
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Sep 10, 2012 13:44
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Pierzak posted:There's a bunch of these but I don't want to learn OSL but rather how to make the details themselves look good, painting the whole "lighting inside" stuff kinda turns my painting sequence inside out. How do you paint a recessed detail that's way lighter than the rest of the model, without getting the main armor color all over it, or messing up the armor if you paint it later?
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Sep 10, 2012 14:26
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