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Interstitial Abs posted:Sorry for the Thanks for the information but I'll be working on making a new body. Christobevii3 posted:If the neck is bolt on you can get a body for like $50-60. Thanks for the advice but I'll be building a new body. My dad's expressed interest and we're going to make a new one together on the weekend. Plus there's a few cracks in the plastic and busted bits that I'm just not punk enough for.
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Sep 6, 2012 11:45
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but I am getting back into the repair game and kind of excited right now.. hehe.
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Cakefool posted:I'm in love with gorilla glue at the moment, needs pressure while it sets but works great. Thanks! That worked great!
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Sep 6, 2012 13:36
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wormil posted:I hate to disagree with an otherwise excellent post but the best wood glues have a working time of 5-10 minutes max in ideal conditions. Waiting 10 minutes will possibly lessen the quality of the bond. It's true, I am used to working with old school wood glue, and some hide based glues. I have heard great things about the Gorilla wood glue. Any others that you recommend?
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Sep 6, 2012 15:33
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Interstitial Abs posted:It's true, I am used to working with old school wood glue, and some hide based glues. I have heard great things about the Gorilla wood glue. Any others that you recommend? I don't have much of a basis for comparison, but have always had great results with Titebond II. The reason I've never tried anything else is because I haven't found a need to (yet). For oily woods like cocobolo, Gorilla glue might be better. A friend of mine makes wood body planes out of exotics and he uses Gorilla glue. I've been using three cocobolo planes made by him for about 10 years and the glue is still holding strong. Cornflake posted:I'm attempting to make a cooling system for my hands. I have no advice for you, but I would really like to know why you need a cooling system for your hands.
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Sep 8, 2012 08:25
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I'm replacing the door sweep for both the front and back doors of house. What kind of epoxy/glue is best to use for this?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Sep 9, 2012 |
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Sep 9, 2012 00:51
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melon cat posted:I'm replacing the door sweep for both the front and back doors of house. What kind of epoxy/glue is best to use for this? The door sweeps that I've used are on aluminum mounting pieces that either screw to the back of the door or are a cap for the bottom of the door. But, https://www.thistothat.com will help with all of your adhesive needs
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Sep 9, 2012 01:17
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I have seen stick-on door sweeps before. However, they all come with double-sided tape already applied.
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Sep 9, 2012 17:58
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Psalmanazar posted:Thanks for the information but I'll be working on making a new body. Beaten many times but post your progress here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3486580
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Sep 10, 2012 00:25
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I'm sort of new to soldering copper pipes and ran into a problem over the weekend. I was soldering a union to connect a new pipe to a run of existing pipe that I cut off. After the initial soldering, I had two pinhole leaks, one on each side of the union. After trying to apply more solder, I noticed it wasn't quite the same as applying it the first time. Is there a method to making this easier or do I need to start over? How?
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Sep 10, 2012 06:09
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You might be able to get away with a liberal application of flux and heating it until the solder flow in and seals the holes, but if that doesn't work you'll have to remote it and prep the ends again.
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Sep 10, 2012 16:41
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I'm screening in my porch and used pressure treated lumber that wasn't kiln dried after the treatment so the wood was still wet when I used it. How long should I let it dry out before I paint it with latex exterior paing? (I live in the Fort Worth area.)
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Sep 12, 2012 17:18
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My fridge/freezer sounds like this when it runs. Is the compressor going bad?
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Sep 12, 2012 17:26
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There isn't much heat output on LED bulbs, right? Even after hours and hours use? I need a reading light that is going to be right over my shoulder and uncomfortable heat is a concern...
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Sep 13, 2012 06:33
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deoju posted:There isn't much heat output on LED bulbs, right? Even after hours and hours use? I need a reading light that is going to be right over my shoulder and uncomfortable heat is a concern... Correct.
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Sep 13, 2012 08:39
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I just built a brand new deer blind but I'm torn on what to line the floor with. I need something to make it quiet but won't trap moisture and rot the floor. Any ideas? I was hoping there was something I could just leave in year round and not have to roll up and take out. edit: this is a blind where I stick out about a foot and deer come really close indoflaven fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Sep 14, 2012 |
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Sep 14, 2012 00:52
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Astroturf, Would that not work?
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Sep 14, 2012 02:25
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Dead Pressed posted:Astroturf, Would that not work? Looks pretty expensive.
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Sep 14, 2012 02:27
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indoflaven posted:I just built a brand new deer blind but I'm torn on what to line the floor with. I need something to make it quiet but won't trap moisture and rot the floor. Any ideas? I was hoping there was something I could just leave in year round and not have to roll up and take out. Have you considered a rubber mat? http://www.texashunter.com/rumatfordebl.html When you're done just pick it up and lean it against the wall and it will dry out and let the floor air out. Is this a tree blind or on the ground? Do you have some kind of hard flooring in there already? If so you may just want to drill a few drainage holes and call it done for the season.
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Sep 14, 2012 02:29
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This is really gross, but I can't figure it out. Starting yesterday, there seems to be a fly infestation in my mother's house. The past two days we've killed about 20-30 some odd houseflies. I can't tell where they are coming from, and they seem to be localized to the living room which is odd because the kitchen connects to the living room, and there's not too many in the kitchen. Regardless, about a week ago I cleaned out the kitchen entirely of all unnecessary food stuffs (my mother is older and tends to let things clutter). So the house has been food-free for about a week before the flies came. Even all the old food was located primarily in the refrigerator, and absolutely none of it was molding (it was mostly condiments in jars that have gone bad, no fresh food). I checked around the house thinking there was a dead animal somewhere, but there is no body, and no tell-tale smell. We have no pets, just houseplants. Admittedly I am not the best care taker, I tend to be absent minded and overlook things, but we've had a few friends come over and take a look also and none of them can find a source for the flies. We don't leave doors open, and even so, it shouldn't let in that many flies. I've so far just sprayed raid around the house and aired it out. Cleaned up a fly holocaust. The next day, they were back. We got a liquid fly trap and it did absolutely jack poo poo. Are there recommended fly fighting solutions? Also, why are they coming in and how the gently caress do I find the source? This is extremely frustrating because we are very clean people, and our house is not a mess by far (Willing to post pics to prove it). It's been about 2-3 days since the infestation started, but I really want to get rid of these bastards. If it helps, we live in the Los Angeles area
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Sep 18, 2012 06:43
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Have you checked every place an animal could get into and die?
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Sep 18, 2012 07:00
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What is your air conditioning situation? Window units or central? If you have window units, they are at least getting in through there. In addition to keeping the place clean, make sure there is no moisture anywhere for them. Your sinks should be kept dry and toilets with lids down. I've found the fuckers like to hide high up between the blinds and windows when I'm going on a killing spree. A big bowl of red wine vinegar with dish soap will draw them in and drown them, too. Good luck. I'm about to import spiders to take care of the flies. I miss central air. 
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Sep 18, 2012 07:06
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We have central air, and I am looking into where animals could hide and die, but honestly I figured if the flies have been around for 2-3 days, shouldn't we be able to smell it? Thanks for the red wine vinegar and dish soap, gonna try it tonight edit: just realized the central air unit is located pretty much outside the window to the living room. Is it possible they're breeding in there and finding their way in through a crack or something somehow? Guilty fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 07:28
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The air conditioner doesn't breed them, it just provides a handy way to get inside your house. If you have screens that can be lifted, they're sneaking in through there.
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Sep 18, 2012 18:51
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Guilty posted:We have central air, and I am looking into where animals could hide and die, but honestly I figured if the flies have been around for 2-3 days, shouldn't we be able to smell it? I found these or something like them at Walmart and used them when we had a fly issue at our old townhouse.
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Sep 18, 2012 19:02
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Another day with the fly problem, left the vinegar soap solution overnight, didn't do poo poo. I think water traps are useless. Just talked to my mom about the central air unit. She said she hasn't had it serviced for about 20 years or so, so I'm hoping that's where they're breeding.
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Sep 18, 2012 19:39
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Re: flies Also check under the house int he crawlspace or basement if you have one. Last time I had a fly infestation they were breeding on rotted wood.
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Sep 18, 2012 23:08
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The vinegar and soap thing I've found more effective for fruit fries, which are attracted to vinegar in decomposing fruit. The soap breaks the surface tension allowing them to sink and drown. In your case it has already been said, check dark and moist areas.
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Sep 19, 2012 05:30
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About a week ago, I discovered that everything on the top shelf of the fridge froze solid overnight. I also happened to notice that the tiny bit of rum I had left in the freezer that is normally liquid was also frozen. I can't seem to find any information on the internet as to why both of the compartments would be running cold. Just to make sure the vent between the freezer and fridge compartment works okay, I slowly turned the fridge temp down until I felt air moving through the vent. Similarly, turning the temp. up caused the door to close again. It seems like that component functions. At this point, I'm not sure if the freezer or the fridge or both have problems regulating their temperature. My gut feeling is that it's the freezer's fault and that the ultra-cold air coming from the freezer is what's freezing the top shelf of the fridge. Meanwhile, the fridge may be regulating its temperature responsibly, since everything below the top shelf is cold but not frozen. I'm hoping that someone can point out with some certainty what component is causing the issue, rather than just throwing money at the problem until it's fixed. The unit is 9 years old so naturally there's not much point in tossing hundreds of dollars of replacement parts into it.
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Sep 21, 2012 17:24
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Usually there's only one compressor. As far as I know the temp of a standard freezer-top or side-by-side fridge is controlled by simply sliding more open or more shut the airvents in the back of each chamber that lead from the freezer to the fridge. The temp dial is usually just a simple mechanical device that opens and shuts the vents as it's turned. The freezer-bottom ones have a fan that moves the freezer air through the vents up into the fridge chamber.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Sep 21, 2012 |
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Sep 21, 2012 17:29
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Splizwarf posted:Usually there's only one compressor. As far as I know the temp of a standard freezer-top or side-by-side fridge is controlled by simply sliding more open or more shut the airvents in the back of each chamber that lead from the freezer to the fridge. The temp dial is usually just a simple mechanical device that opens and shuts the vents as it's turned. The freezer-bottom ones have a fan that moves the freezer air through the vents up into the fridge chamber. Correct, there's only one compressor. My fridge is a side-by-side but as far as I understand, the fridge compartment is kept cold by allowing air from the freezer into the fridge through a "baffle vent" (their words, not mine) that is computer-controlled. The vent is opened and closed to regulate temperature as reported by a thermostat. I put a thermometer in the lower portion of the fridge and have seen temperatures as high as 38 but as low as 31. This should be within spec even though the temperature bounces around. Evidently my thermometer didn't like being in the freezer because it pegged at 0. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Sep 21, 2012 |
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Sep 21, 2012 22:13
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I came home to discover my A/C has ceased working. I thought thermostat died so I replaced it. No change. I did discover that if I smack the exchange it will start up for .5 seconds then kick off. This sounds like a short. Or a dead relay. Or a bad capacitor. Or some sort of low-pressure safety switch. Are there any obvious problems I should check? Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Sep 22, 2012 |
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Sep 22, 2012 04:17
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I need to rent a dumpster for a roofing crew to dispose of 2 layers of asphalt shingle and 1 layer of wood shake and wondering what size is best. 30 yard? (about 1500 sq ft of roof)
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Sep 22, 2012 05:39
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Follow up on the A/C unit issue. Turns out the drain sensor just poo poo itself. I had to call in a tech to figure it out, but in retrospect it was pretty obvious.
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Sep 22, 2012 20:06
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dwoloz posted:I need to rent a dumpster for a roofing crew to dispose of 2 layers of asphalt shingle and 1 layer of wood shake and wondering what size is best. 30 yard? My experience with dumpster rental is that you pay for the weight, not the size of the dumpster, either way, a 30 yard is probably a good choice. Make sure you put it somewhere not easily accessible from the street or you'll end up with people dumping in it.
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Sep 23, 2012 13:33
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Dragyn posted:Make sure you put it somewhere not easily accessible from the street or you'll end up with people dumping in it. Truth, and it's usually way worse than you might expect. If you can't get it delivered out of sight or behind a serious fence you are going to want someone watching it 24/7 to fend off couches etc.
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Sep 24, 2012 15:00
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Shame Boner posted:Correct, there's only one compressor. My fridge is a side-by-side but as far as I understand, the fridge compartment is kept cold by allowing air from the freezer into the fridge through a "baffle vent" (their words, not mine) that is computer-controlled. The vent is opened and closed to regulate temperature as reported by a thermostat. I put a thermometer in the lower portion of the fridge and have seen temperatures as high as 38 but as low as 31. This should be within spec even though the temperature bounces around. Evidently my thermometer didn't like being in the freezer because it pegged at 0. Hmm. I might not panic quite yet. Our fridge has done this a couple times. I noticed the door was not completely shut on the fridge the one time and everything on the freezer side cost redic cold, probably compensating for the door being open (maybe overnight :S). I've also noticed that whenever we do a fridge cleaning, and remove a pile of items from the fridge we need to change the mechanical dial. Sometimes it freezes the milk, othertimes its warm. It doesn't seem to always go the same direction as you might think removing items would. Guessing its something to do with how much work is needed to be done based the airflow.
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Sep 24, 2012 19:32
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So I live in a weird giant old loft. My room has some panels at the top of its walls that were covered over with plywood by the previous occupant. I'd like to knock them out and replace them with sheets of acrylic to make some cheap indoor windows. Am I right in thinking I can just drill holes and screw the acrylic to the studs? Also, I was thinking about lining the edges with soundproofing foam, that kind you line doors with. Would that cut down on sound much with acrylic?
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Sep 24, 2012 23:51
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I'm having trouble parsing "panels at the top of the walls" with "indoor windows". Could you post a pic?
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Sep 25, 2012 19:49
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My guess is that it's built like warehouse storage cages, where they frame out some walls, slap 8x4 sheets of plywood on the there and then staple screen in to cover from 8' to whatever the ceiling height is... Only when it was converted into a loft, the walls were finished slightly better and plywood was screwed to the furring strips that held the screen in.
corgski fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 21:29
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Sorry, that was really vague. They're just rectangular holes at the top of an eight foot high wall, each about 2' X 3'. Wall reaches all the way to the ceiling and is bog standard studs n' drywall, nothing special.
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Sep 25, 2012 22:26
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