|
Orange Someone posted:Any good suggestions for tail kits? Doesn't require indicators, but I'm not going to object if I have to put them on. Also, realised I ought to get frame sliders or some such protection I have this on my SM. Satisfied so far, looks good and the install wasn't too much of a kick in the nuts. Fake edit: Although it bolts to the on your bike non-existing metal subframe, so...
|
# ? Sep 10, 2012 15:04 |
|
|
# ? Jun 13, 2024 05:53 |
Someone talk me out of doing this
|
|
# ? Sep 10, 2012 15:06 |
|
It looks like he used tire shine on motorcycle tires. If so, the seller is full-on retarded and who knows what else is wrong with it.
|
# ? Sep 10, 2012 15:15 |
|
JP Money posted:Someone talk me out of doing this spandexcajun posted:This is the post where I cry like a little girl. The YZ is the even less streetable, even less reliable, even more maintenance intensive version of the WR. There is no way thats a good streetbike. Also unless thats a cush hub on there (it isnt) you'll eventually hammer the poo poo out of the trans gears and once you wear through the hardened coating its all over. That bike was meant to be in the dirt. However, will it be fun? Hell yes, it will most likely be the best time you've ever had on the street. You'll just pay for it.
|
# ? Sep 10, 2012 15:25 |
That's water from washing it. Every bike ad has that. I already told the guy I was gonna pass but drat that thing would be fun. It's a shame every KTM owner I run into while searching has been a complete douche. I hate enabling snobby bike owners and prefer to just pass them over.
|
|
# ? Sep 10, 2012 15:49 |
|
JP Money posted:I already told the guy I was gonna pass but drat that thing would be fun. It's a shame every KTM owner I run into while searching has been a complete douche. I hate enabling snobby bike owners and prefer to just pass them over. Jim Silly-balls beat me to it, but.... Um, yeah, pass is a good move. No work on my WR, shop should have a look Tuesday or Wednesday.
|
# ? Sep 10, 2012 21:03 |
|
Tonight I had my first DRZ oh poo poo accidental wheelie later followed by my first lowside and wicked slide. Thankfully, they were unrelated. The crash was just the result of me finding the limits of slick tires in a field of wet grass. Once I dug all the dirt clods out, there's not a scratch on the bike, but my handlebars are kind of crooked. The bars themselves aren't bent, but the clamps that hold the bars are kind of wonky. It looks like there's a single bolt under each one and maybe some adjustability. Am I right? The bolts are kind of a pain to get at.
|
# ? Sep 11, 2012 03:27 |
|
I did a 690 track day in the rain: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLCRGiav8qA (Cross post from the pic thread) I go down at 1:50 It looks like there will be a supermoto race at the local Nascar/MX track in two weeks! I hope I don't die! The Blue is paved, the green is MX, and the red is probably a 60mph flat track corner. These conditions do not favor sport tires...
|
# ? Sep 11, 2012 03:39 |
|
God I love supermotos OH gently caress I CRASHED See ya later I always really liked this video of the 690 SMC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFd4t0M_XmU
|
# ? Sep 11, 2012 03:44 |
|
"[working title posted:" post="407384042"] insanity-and-failure@hotmail.com
|
# ? Sep 11, 2012 10:48 |
|
eddiewalker posted:The bars themselves aren't bent, but the clamps that hold the bars are kind of wonky. It looks like there's a single bolt under each one and maybe some adjustability. Am I right? The bolts are kind of a pain to get at. Decent chance things just got pushed around a bit, had the same thing happen on my dirt bike after going down a cliff. Loosen the risers and stuff out and see if it springs back. Dirt bikes (supermotos) tend to crash very well.
|
# ? Sep 11, 2012 15:44 |
|
I think I'm going to go back to the dual exhaust, for now since the PO's single exhaust setup doesn't fit with the factory subframe. Where can I buy exhaust springs for cheap, because I don't want to pay the dealership $7 per spring. Any chance somewhere like Lowes or Home Depot sells an item that would work? The springs in the parts catalog are 62mm long. Also, I got the starter and associated gears and clutch all installed and sealed up. I really hope it all works. While doing this I also installed a new chain. Can anyone give me some advice on chain length? I purchased a 120 link X-ring chain 'cause the factory chain in the catalog is apparently 118 links. However, the chain that was on my bike (really stretched, no o-rings, possibly a dirtbike chain?) was cut to 112 links. I could do the same, but I'm really not sure what the best thing to do is. Mounting a tire with an innertube was surprisingly not that challenging. 60 PSI of nitrogen ( nitrogen because it was in the garage and we used it to purge an AC system several months ago) popped both beads into place no sweat. I'm not sure what tire pressure to run initially. I dropped it down to 35 psi while it's just sitting in the garage. Any help with babbies first biek would be swell.
|
# ? Sep 12, 2012 04:20 |
|
MetaJew posted:I'm not sure what tire pressure to run initially. I dropped it down to 35 psi while it's just sitting in the garage. For an LC4 it should be around the 28psi mark.
|
# ? Sep 12, 2012 20:31 |
|
ReelBigLizard posted:For an LC4 it should be around the 28psi mark. Yeah that's what i run. Everytime i take it to a dealer they put in about 36-38 though.
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 07:51 |
|
What's a good psi for two lane highways? I run 26/28 in my WRX but after a 320 mile day on a country road my distanzas are flatter than a car tire.
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 10:46 |
|
"My bike exploded" Got word back on the WR450. Main bearing is toast, the lower end is gone. Piston is toast, so the topend is done! Lucky me I get a whole engine rebuild. Headwork, new valves (maybe all 5) New piston, ring, rod, etc... hone cylinder walls, some other stuff and a shitload of labor. Costing more then 50% what I payed for the bike. Looking on the bright side, I will have a brand new engine to abuse and not worry about.... still paying less then a new WR would have cost. I knew the job was dangerous when I took it, but i wish I would have had a year or so before this happened. I'll try to stop buy the shop and take some pics of the failed parts if I have time in the next day or so.
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 17:50 |
|
That sucks man, both upper and lower end? Thats incredible, do they have any idea what happened?
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 20:29 |
|
spandexcajun posted:"My bike exploded" You got the dirt wheels with that bike right? you could recoup some of the money by selling those. also i would be going round to the oval office that sold it to you and breaking all his windows or something edit: or throw the whole bike down the side of a mountain and claim the insurance then buy the drz
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 20:46 |
This is why I passed up that YZ and any other race dirtbike. You pretty much ought to expect that if you buy one you're going to get hosed with all the maintenance the PO didn't feel like doing. I don't trust anyone for a loving second when they tell me they do valve checks / oil changes every 500 miles or something and that it's "fine" and "totally reliable". Sucks you got screwed man. Is it cheaper to source a used engine off CL or ebay? EDIT - I like that mountain idea!
|
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 21:09 |
|
echomadman posted:edit: or throw the whole bike down the side of a mountain and claim the insurance then buy the drz This. I have no problem admitting that the WR packs a more exciting engine than the DRZ, but, man, I'm not sure if that kind of wallet excitement is worth it. For that kind of money you could get a Eddie built 60hp DRZ that would legitimately make more power than basically everything but the 690's and SXV's
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 22:15 |
|
spandexcajun posted:"My bike exploded" drat that really sucks. I'm sure they will deny everything but it might be worth getting in touch with the PO. Please get lots of pictures of the remains of your engine. This is the motivation I needed to clean and list the CRF for sale...after doing one last valve check and oil change.
|
# ? Sep 13, 2012 23:27 |
|
Still no pics, the engine is not out yet. The shop said they would take them for me. As far as going after the guy I got it from, I truly think he did not know it would grenade on me. If he did I doubt he would have been giving test rides to me and at least one other, I sure would not have if I was dumping a bike with engine problems. That leads to the other point. I am pretty sure if someone called me up 3 days after buying a bike from me and said that it had whatever problem, I would say "drat, that sucks..." but I don't think I would do anything for them. It's not that I am a bad person and I have never sold a car or bike thinking it had a major issue and tried to get more then it was worth, I would not do that. Hell, I sold my old pathfinder to my nice for $250 bucks because I thought it was well past it's expiration date (200,000 miles, bad oil leak for at least the last 20,000) I could have easily sold it for a grand or more. But, no warranty / as is means just that. So I don't feel like I have any right to ask for anything. I just had bad luck. Well, that and I bought a racing bike with an engine that had a rep for not being anywhere near as reliable as a road bike. Of course I was pretty pissed, but I think I have come to peace with it. Hell, I'll have a brand new engine and the rest of the bike is awesome so good times
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 01:06 |
|
I took the FMF Titanium 4 slipon off my DRZ. The thing hit 121dB on a cheap meter held 5ft away while revving in my driveway. It was uncomfortable to ride around town without earplugs, and brought way too much negative attention. The FMF Q4 is waaaay quieter. Not ninja250 quiet, but it won't wake the neighborhood (I hope.) I haven't had time to barrow a meter again, but it says "96dB Max" on the can. Is thumpertalk the best place to try and sell the Ti4? I really don't know a fair price since FMF doesn't seem to make it anymore and TT deletes every sold item in the for sale forum.
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 01:26 |
|
eddiewalker posted:I took the FMF Titanium 4 slipon off my DRZ. The thing hit 121dB on a cheap meter held 5ft away while revving in my driveway. It was uncomfortable to ride around town without earplugs, and brought way too much negative attention. I'd spam it everywhere; supermoto junkie, thumper talk, drz forums, craigslist, ebay, even here. Used FMF market anecdote: I've seen a 690 Q4Ti sit on craigslist for months, dropping from ~$300 to $150. I'm sure a DRZ exhaust will do better though as DRZs are more common.
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 01:32 |
|
If you were keeping the Ti and selling the Q4 I'd have money in your hand right now. Did you ever ride the bike with the stock exhaust? I'm interested to hear how the Q4 compares to the stocker.
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 02:13 |
|
I was running my 690 off road and I couldn't hear the stock exhaust in a pack of bikes. I used that to justify a Q4. Off road or on the track the Q4 sounds awesome, but it's terrible for the street. It defeats the whole purpose of a sumo; ripping around below the speed limit. Doing a wheelie is loving loud, which is the last thing I want. I'm definitely not the first person to point this out, but it needs repeating. In summary, keep the stock exhaust for the street.
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 02:24 |
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:If you were keeping the Ti and selling the Q4 I'd have money in your hand right now. Did you ever ride the bike with the stock exhaust? I'm interested to hear how the Q4 compares to the stocker. I've never heard the stock exhaust. I've never seen a sumo in person except mine. I really hope the Q4 is quiet enough to live with. I only fired it up for a minute before I had to leave town for the weekend. I looked for a stock unit but couldn't find one that hadn't been drilled out inside.
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 14:36 |
|
Gullous posted:I was running my 690 off road and I couldn't hear the stock exhaust in a pack of bikes. I used that to justify a Q4. Off road or on the track the Q4 sounds awesome, but it's terrible for the street. It defeats the whole purpose of a sumo; ripping around below the speed limit. Doing a wheelie is loving loud, which is the last thing I want. I generally agree with you. The thing that sucks about the stock DRZ exhaust is that part of what gives it its sewing machine-esque quietness is the fact that the header is pretty gagged up. The DRZ really perks up with the powerbomb header that comes with the full Q4 system, but then you lose the silence of the stocker. I guess I'd be happy if I could find a middle ground between the stocker, and the full-on ear raping of the MRD/FMFTi/Yosh/etc. The DRZ gets really really loud with those pipes.
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 15:07 |
|
625 SMC Update: We got the new chain on and tensioned, and mounted a new tube and BT003rs on the front wheel. HOLYSHIT. Mounting the front tire was about 100 times harder than the rear. We kept having issues with the bead pulling up 180 degs. away from the tool. I'm not sure what I expected, but I had ordered rim tape to run over the spokes and discovered just how ghetto the tubeless wheel mod was done. I had purchased rim tape for the front and rear wheels, but the rear was still wrapped in duct tape and appeared to be pretty good. I decided to tear the duct tape off the front and here's what I found. In case you didn't guess, that's some sort of silicone or other caulking material. I tried wrapping rim tape around this, and found that it wasn't sticking very well in all places. So, I then went over the rim tape with some fresh duct tape. We finally managed to get the tire mounted by getting the bead over the lip about half way around and then wrapping a tiedown around the rim and tire which prevented the bead from coming off the wheel. Once the tire was on, the bead seated at 40 PSI on both sides almost simultaneously.
|
# ? Sep 15, 2012 18:01 |
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:I generally agree with you. I can totally relate, I do go back and forth (the grass is always greener...) Right now I'm on the FMF and I'm about the switch Edit: I was messing around these pretty cool park/old warehouse place, glad I had the stock exhaust! GI Joe jobs fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Sep 16, 2012 |
# ? Sep 15, 2012 20:33 |
|
I discovered on Friday, as I was removing my carb to clean it, that one of the throttle cables failing. Three of the five strands had been severed. So, $60 and a trip to the KTM dealership later, and I have a fresh pair of throttle cables! I guess it's a good thing that I'm going over every inch of this bike, but my wallet's starting to hurt. Up next: Figure out how to disassemble and clean the FCR-41; refill the engine with oil (I have to burp it too, apparently); flush and bleed the brakes; make up some brackets to mount the headlight; cut up the airbox in order to fit in a new cone filter; wire in the turn signals; and maybe take a shot at getting the gas tank plastics off and epoxying the threaded inserts back into the tank. I think it's gonna be a while.
|
# ? Sep 16, 2012 18:30 |
|
Popped the "DB killer" out of the SC-Project can on the 690 today and... it's actually less offensive. I hadn't dared before now because with the insert in it was already obnoxious. At high revs/load it's louder sure but at idle and low revs I'm getting a lot less dirty looks from the neighbours. With the insert in the idle is like a THAP kind of sound and wound out it's a really harsh but with the insert removed idle is a softer THUB THUB THUB and it only gets THAP-y when I whack the throttle open. And it seems to run smoother and pop less on overrun/decel to boot, I'm leaving the insert out all the time now. Maybe SC-Project never even tested it, they just figured anyone buying this kind of exhaust would throw the insert in the loving bin in disgust before even putting it on the bike.
|
# ? Sep 16, 2012 18:42 |
|
I think the Q4 is going to be easy to live with. My cheap meter calls it 94dB from 5 feet away. I was clutching in and revving with the Ti4 as a "get the hell out my way horn" to cellphone talkers in minivans. It was clearly too loud and turning me into an rear end in a top hat. The bike is running rich with the Q4, so it definitely doesn't flow as well as the Ti4. Riding with the airbox door off, it runs pretty well, so I'll probably just have to move from a Dynojet 155 to a 150 (I think. I've been reading TT all day.)
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 00:27 |
|
MetaJew posted:I discovered on Friday, as I was removing my carb to clean it, that one of the throttle cables failing. Three of the five strands had been severed. So, $60 and a trip to the KTM dealership later, and I have a fresh pair of throttle cables! I guess it's a good thing that I'm going over every inch of this bike, but my wallet's starting to hurt. The 625 oil change is easily the most retarded oil change on the planet. Ever.
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 00:31 |
|
eddiewalker posted:I think the Q4 is going to be easy to live with. My cheap meter calls it 94dB from 5 feet away Any idea how that reading compares to the stocker?
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 02:20 |
|
ReelBigLizard posted:Popped the "DB killer" out of the SC-Project can on the 690 today and... it's actually less offensive. I hadn't dared before now because with the insert in it was already obnoxious. At high revs/load it's louder sure but at idle and low revs I'm getting a lot less dirty looks from the neighbours. With the insert in the idle is like a THAP kind of sound and wound out it's a really harsh but with the insert removed idle is a softer THUB THUB THUB and it only gets THAP-y when I whack the throttle open. Mine is really loud without it in though I've yet to get around to putting it in. There does seem to be a complete lack of backpressure and the bike will stall a fair bit too. Slightly different bike though.
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 02:40 |
|
needknees posted:The 625 oil change is easily the most retarded oil change on the planet. Ever. Yeah, just draining the oil was a huge mess. A bike with three oil filters, and four points that you have to drain it from. I guess the Austrians really are worse than the Germans? I wound up spending a lot more time going over the carb and trying to clean it all out as best I could that I didn't get to refilling the oil. On the one hand, I removed a lot of gunk from the carb. On the other hand, BEFORE I had even really disassembled it, I found an o-ring lying on my counter. It was busted and I couldn't for the life of me figure out where it had come from. WHOOPS! It was pretty big and I didn't see any mating surfaces that it would've connected...
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 06:04 |
|
MetaJew posted:Yeah, just draining the oil was a huge mess. A bike with three oil filters, and four points that you have to drain it from. I guess the Austrians really are worse than the Germans? four drain points???? I get annoyed with the two drain points on the DRZ. Although I did find out why they tell you to take off the oil fill cap before you change the oil with a warm motor. The oil is under pressure! So my last DRZ oil change wound up being a huge mess as well.
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 14:17 |
|
Aargh posted:Mine is really loud without it in though I've yet to get around to putting it in. There does seem to be a complete lack of backpressure and the bike will stall a fair bit too. Slightly different bike though. Basically the same powerplant, mine has no stalling issues and it pulls like a train with the K&N / SC combo. The thing to do is get yourself a cable and alter your F-L Switch table using TuneECU. It controls when the ECU flips over to the economy "L" map, which seems to be the cause of most stalling with the 690 LC4. You can also do useful things like disabling the SAS valve and stock O2 sensor. I'm hopefully picking up an old CB650 for cheap this month and as soon as I do the header is coming off the 690 and having a bung welded in for a wideband O2 kit. Jim Silly-Balls posted:four drain points???? The 690 only has one drain plug, but it also has two oil screens and two filters to change, which still piss oil even when you've drained it from the plug.
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 20:38 |
|
|
# ? Jun 13, 2024 05:53 |
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:four drain points???? I'm exaggerating, but only a little. You have the spin on oil filter, and some oil drains there. Then there is a.drain plug.for the frame. Then there is a transmission/engine cartridge filter. After that, there are two drain plugs on the bottom. One has a screen and magnet that I'm not sure how to clean, and the other is just a magnet. Apparently, you have to burp the frame oil reservoir, too. Anyway, so in one oil change you use three crush washers, a spin on filter, a cartridge filter, and a gasket for the cartridge. The PO installed a SS reusable cartridge, but I'm not sure of a good way to clean it and I'm sure the paper cartridge filters better.
|
# ? Sep 17, 2012 22:42 |