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There are a couple of vets on my search team and the subject of puppies and exercise comes up a lot, because we're working with high-drive dogs and there are several puppies on the team--obviously not super tiny ones, but the youngest is I think 4 months. Anyway, their general consensus seems to be pretty much what Rixatrix said. You don't want to be doing a lot of sharp turns or high jumps at a young age, so things like agility and herding work are probably best left for a little later. You can still start laying the foundations early, but actual competitive performance might be too much. The other thing they both really caution about is too much running on pavement. That's not to say you can never do it, just don't run 3 miles a day on the sidewalk with a puppy. I think there's a big middle ground between not working your puppy at all and overdoing it, so it isn't really possible to draw a clear line. It also depends a lot on the individual and the breed so is different in each case. And yeah high-drive dogs need to be watched carefully if you're working them. After once seeing an ACD try to herd cattle with a broken leg (it was literally just broken and dangling uselessly from his shoulder and we were calling him back so we could take him to the vet and have it treated but he kept stopping to chase cows out of his way), I don't trust high-drive dogs to let me know something is wrong.
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Sep 7, 2012 16:45
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That's interesting. When I took Amelia for her first "run" it was really me just jogging down the road and back for ~15 minutes or so with her trying to break free, so I was thinking it couldn't really do too much to her in that short of a span. Can't take her to dog parks for off leash stuff until she's 4months, but is there anything I should know/do before we do?
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Sep 8, 2012 21:33
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Splat posted:That's interesting. When I took Amelia for her first "run" it was really me just jogging down the road and back for ~15 minutes or so with her trying to break free, so I was thinking it couldn't really do too much to her in that short of a span. Can't take her to dog parks for off leash stuff until she's 4months, but is there anything I should know/do before we do? Puppy kindergarten - especially one with socialization. Find a good one and go. I personally believe this is the most important class you can take with your dog.
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Sep 8, 2012 23:26
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Linus got his 12 week vaccinations on Friday and ever since, he's been much more bitey at times. It's been more growling and pulling at pant legs with some biting at feet occasionally. He used to get this way when he was really, really worn out but never right after eliminating in the morning or after a play session. We just starting wearing pants around him but he wasn't like this before the shots. Is this possibly normal behavior? We still try leaving the room but he's going for our ankles/pant legs like they are made of chicken.
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Sep 9, 2012 15:22
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Splat posted:That's interesting. When I took Amelia for her first "run" it was really me just jogging down the road and back for ~15 minutes or so with her trying to break free, so I was thinking it couldn't really do too much to her in that short of a span. Can't take her to dog parks for off leash stuff until she's 4months, but is there anything I should know/do before we do? I don't think you're going to run into any problems with a short run like that. The big concern with high-impact activities like a lot of running on pavement is stress fractures, which can be disastrous for growing bones. I think dogs are actually less prone to these issues than people are, but it's just something to keep in mind. Fractured growth plates can cause all kinds of problems. I don't want to make you afraid to exercise your pup, because I think it's hard to overdo it for the average owner.  Just be careful about running too long on pavement, especially with such a young puppy. As she gets a little older you can build up to a bit more. I wouldn't take her along while you're training for a marathon until she's 2, but more average workouts are probably fine.MrFurious posted:Puppy kindergarten - especially one with socialization. Find a good one and go. I personally believe this is the most important class you can take with your dog. This is my recommendation too. Puppy kindergarten will help teach your pup dog manners (as in, how to greet and play with other dogs) and will give good basic commands that may be necessary in off-leash activities.Thwomp posted:Linus got his 12 week vaccinations on Friday and ever since, he's been much more bitey at times. It's been more growling and pulling at pant legs with some biting at feet occasionally. He used to get this way when he was really, really worn out but never right after eliminating in the morning or after a play session. So you're thinking this is a frustration thing, like a puppy version of the two year old kid who can't stop crying just because he's so tired? I've had experience with both dogs and horses feeling sore around the injection site and maybe even having a very slight fever (in people it might be likened to a cold where you feel some physical symptoms of fever but your temperature isn't much elevated) after vaccinations. Think of it like when you get a tetanus shot--life kind of sucks for a few days afterwards because your arm is so sore. It could just be a slight reaction to the vaccines. You can always call your vet first thing Monday (or today if they're open) to ask about it if you're concerned. 2tomorrow fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Sep 9, 2012 |
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Sep 9, 2012 16:41
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MrFurious posted:Puppy kindergarten - especially one with socialization. Find a good one and go. I personally believe this is the most important class you can take with your dog. Cool, we're already registered for that for next Saturday, hoping it goes well.
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Sep 9, 2012 18:30
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2tomorrow posted:So you're thinking this is a frustration thing, like a puppy version of the two year old kid who can't stop crying just because he's so tired? We think it's just a slight reaction to the vaccine and he's feeling grouchy like he did when he was extremely worn out. Maybe I will call the vet if he isn't better tomorrow. He does seem to be slightly better today so who knows.
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Sep 10, 2012 01:40
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We just picked up our new 14 week french bulldog pup - Frankie. I have set up a nice play pen for him which leads to the dog door which goes out into the back courtyard where the doggy toilet is. There is plenty of toys and kongs for him to play with. The issue is that when i put him in his pen and leave the room he doesnt want to play with his toys or eat his meals, when I am sitting next to the pen he will happily play with his kong and toys. I have had him for 3 days now and I will play with him for 2-3 hours and then put him in the pen for 2-3 hours and so on; so he can adjust to being alone and not get seperation anxiety for times i need to leave the house. Once, in the pen he doesnt seem to play alone and will bark for about 5-10 minutes before going quiet. How can i get him to enjoy his time alone? I will be taking him on his first walk today for about half hour so hopefully that wears him out for tonight. Also enrolled him into puppy kindergarten starting next week for 4 weeks.
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Sep 11, 2012 01:48
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You're only a couple days in. Routine is key. Sounds like you're doing great, tbh. Also, I'm taking my dog out on a walk now. She says thanks. 
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Sep 11, 2012 03:04
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coyo7e posted:You're only a couple days in. Routine is key. I think he is doing alright too, just venting about certain things. I worry he isnt entertained when alone thats all. Cant ask for too much too soon. Cute!!!
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Sep 11, 2012 03:52
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More questions time! We still haven't had a pee accident in a couple weeks now, but a few indoor poops here and there, thankfully on wood flooring so easy cleanup. Couple questions related: 1. How do we get her to only want to go out when she actually has to go to the bathroom? We take her out every time she goes to the door, but it gets a bit frustrating the 4th or 5th time in a row where she just goes to chew on grass and lay in the sun. 2. We've got a bell hung up by the door, and she realizes that bell ring = go outside, but she seems terrified of the physical bell itself. The training makes it seem like she should be picking up on ringing it herself, but she isn't. We've tried getting her close and picking up her paw and making her ring it, but that freaks her out too. How do we get past this hump without making her just think that ring bell = treat?
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Sep 11, 2012 19:09
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Splat posted:1. How do we get her to only want to go out when she actually has to go to the bathroom? We take her out every time she goes to the door, but it gets a bit frustrating the 4th or 5th time in a row where she just goes to chew on grass and lay in the sun. As for 2, I think I saw stuff on that in the training thread, sounds like you may need to convince her that the noise is safe+positive, and that making the noise herself is also safe..? I'd ask in that thread on specifics, there's a good post by alifeless in that OP, about "the touch game," iirc.
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Sep 11, 2012 22:39
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Does anyone know of a good way to tie a Kong to something? I noticed a couple of occasions where Ian Dunbar mentioned tying one to the inside of a crate or to an eyehook on the wall but I haven't had any success... usually the Kong slips out of the loop without too much tugging or the knot comes undone (the only string I had that seemed strong enough was a little slick).
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Sep 12, 2012 03:44
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Chimeric posted:Does anyone know of a good way to tie a Kong to something? I noticed a couple of occasions where Ian Dunbar mentioned tying one to the inside of a crate or to an eyehook on the wall but I haven't had any success... usually the Kong slips out of the loop without too much tugging or the knot comes undone (the only string I had that seemed strong enough was a little slick). If you can't get your knot to stay I've heard of people using these kongs and removing the foam inside that makes them float. Otherwise just work on your knotwork. Instant Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Sep 12, 2012 |
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Sep 12, 2012 03:50
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I need some help from you guys, i've recently bought a Manchester Terrier puppy called Dino. This is Dino.  He's now 14 weeks old and has been house trained pretty much since I first got him ( 4weeks aog) and was a happy as anything, however things have started to go wrong. I try to give him a set routine (I think this may be the problem let me know what you think), I work all day so to try to reduce the time he spends at home alone I do the following: Mondays and Fridays get up at 07:00 Walk, food play etc, leave him at 08:45 I go to work, I return for an hour at 13:00 to 14:00 then Return at 18:15 from work, then play, walk etc. Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, get up at 07:00 food, play etc, then take him to my mothers house by 08:00 spend 45 mins with him there, then go back at lunch to see him, pick him up after work and take him back to my house. Then weekends spend all weekend with him. What is concerning me is that, his behavior is changing, when I take him back to mine he whines all the time (my mothers house is bigger with a huge garden). He won't eat properly, he'll take a couple of mouthfulls then walk away, then go back after 10 mins for another bite......repeat. Finally he's started to mess in the house even if the back door is open. I have a feeling that some of the problem is that there is too much going on in his life, too many places and he's getting confused, what do you think? Any other pointers or ideas what i'm doing wrong?
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Sep 12, 2012 11:01
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Any dog training tips? We just got an 8 week Beagle. This is the first dog we haven't rescued so he doesn't already know all the basic commands. I'm using cat treats to get him to sit, but he's too busy sniffing everything for the harder stuff. On a positive note, he's toilet trained already. He nailed that (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Sep 12, 2012 12:14
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bad-yeti posted:I need some help from you guys, i've recently bought a Manchester Terrier puppy called Dino. If my experience with Linus is anything to go by, Dino is just getting to a point where he's testing boundaries and finding his own place in your home. Just keep being consistent. With his food, pick it up after 15-20 minutes. He'll learn not to graze at his bowl. With him eliminating in the house, keep treating him when he goes outside and immediately pick him up and take him there if you catch him going in the house. Again, he's just realizing his place in your home so remaining consistent is key. He'll get it but it may take some time. TwoDogs1Cup posted:Any dog training tips? We just got an 8 week Beagle. This is the first dog we haven't rescued so he doesn't already know all the basic commands. If you just got him then he's going to want to sniff everything until it's all more familiar to him. Just keep making him sit to get anything (food, water, scratches, play time, etc). If he is still having issues with attention, upgrade the treat to something more appealing like real chicken. Edit: A side note, Linus has fleas. Looks to be only minor but it's our own fault for not getting the Frontline on him sooner (his parasites were a distraction that played into it). He'll get a bath tonight and we'll be vacuuming up the whole main level. Thwomp fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Sep 12, 2012 |
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Sep 12, 2012 13:36
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TwoDogs1Cup posted:Any dog training tips? We just got an 8 week Beagle. This is the first dog we haven't rescued so he doesn't already know all the basic commands. Dog Training Thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3364451 An 8 week old puppy is still very much an infant. Train in 1 minute spurts, max, so you don't wear your pup out before you stop. Always end it on a good note, and leave the dog wanting more. Also, your pup is offering you feedback: sniffing is more fun than whatever you're offering. Training should be a game to a dog, and it should be fun and never a chore. Play games in between repetitions of behaviours, etc to keep the session upbeat and exciting.
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Sep 12, 2012 13:44
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bad-yeti posted:I need some help from you guys, i've recently bought a Manchester Terrier puppy called Dino. Don't free-feed. Put food down for 10-15 minutes and then take it back up. He'll learn to eat when it's time. There's not enough information on what's going on with the house-soiling. My guess is that he's not as housetrained as you think he is and you need to revisit the guide in the OP.
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Sep 12, 2012 18:01
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Thanks for the info, stupid question though, so I put the food down at let's say 08:00 and he eats two mouthfuls and saunters off, then I remove it at 08:15, when do I put it back down? Or is that the idea leave him hungry until the evening feed? (I guess I should go onto 2 feeds a day instead of 3 soon.)
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Sep 12, 2012 18:06
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Leave it until the next scheduled meal time. Pup will learn to eat when his food is put down.
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Sep 12, 2012 18:15
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We're getting a 14-week old collie next monday. I'll likely have tons of questions after that; it's been ten years since I've had a dog, but right now I'm prioritizing puppyproofing the house. We've got two middle-aged cats, and the old baby gates are less well suited to keeping the bathroom with the litterbox out of it than my mom first thought - she's worried about him getting his nose stuck in the gaps. The gates we've found in local pet stores are either too short for the dog or too high for the cats. Similarly, I can't think of any place to put the cat food that 1) would be okay for the cats to jump on regularly and 2) couldn't be reached by a full-grown collie. Is there some really obvious solution I'm missing? Mom's the one in charge of this part, but I'm kind of iffy on it. We're also planning on fencing in our back and side yards so he can run around outside if he likes. This wouldn't be done for a few weeks because the contractors have a significant backlog, but I'm kind of worried about the noise from construction when he's going to be settling in. After reading about the medical problems in this thread, now I'm worried about the expense - would it be more responsible to save that money for potential emergencies? We're not hurting for money, but we're not rich, either. There's a conservation area nearby, and most people seem to use that to walk their dogs. There's a strict leash law unless the dog's under voice control, though. Is a free open space to run around in really important for collies? Background on MacGyver - he's from a breeder a town or two over, he was raised with cats and trained to leave them alone indoors (outdoors, he and his littermates chased around the breeder's cat and nuzzled it a little, no hostility involved). He's used to people, cats, and other dogs to a certain extent. He lives with something like seven other littermates and an older female collie who isn't his mom, but he's not used to other dogs - mom took him on a test walk and he got a little stressed out whenever one came up to him. He didn't get aggressive or freak out a lot, he was just clearly not used to big happy labs sniffing at him and wasn't really okay with it. He's fairly old for a puppy; is this going to stick with him or is there a chance he'll chill out later in life?
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Sep 12, 2012 20:22
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Would it be possible for you to feed the cats set meals twice a day instead of leaving the food bowl out all day? If not, unless your cats are old or especially fat, you should be able to teach them to jump a baby gate. As long as you are appropriate giving the dog physical and mental exercise it needs to not be a neurotic mess, you're fine. Open spaces to run are nice when you can find them, but aren't required for any typical dog really. Also, just wondering who is the breeder of the dog and is it a border collie or a rough collie? I'd be especially curious to see a breeder of the latter, as their lines have been kind of poo poo for awhile because of the show ring. Link their website if they have one.
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Sep 12, 2012 21:48
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That could work! Mom's pretty firm on the fence - she's worried about his instincts to chase leading him into the road or after bikers, and it'll be easier to let him out to pee at six in the morning. He's a rough collie. The breeder doesn't have a website, but they were referred by the folks over here, who own the father of that particular litter.
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Sep 12, 2012 23:45
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Alopex posted:That could work! Just don't decide 'he doesn't need a walk, he can go play in the backyard  ' and you'll be fine. A fenced yard is nice for housebreaking, especially when it's a 'grab n' go' situation and you don't have time to grab a leash/harness. As long as it's never viewed as a space where the dog can be left unsupervised (i.e don't use the backyard instead of a crate) or as a substitute for walks, a backyard is a nice asset in a dog's life. As for the breeder of the male, meh. They're your standard show breeder, no interest in bettering the breed, other than for aesthetics, and their dogs are the typical durfy show type, but they're fine, I guess. I don't see any mention of health testing, however, so be aware of hip/joint dysplasia and collie eye anomaly, as both of those problems are $$$ and pain for your dog. Good luck with the pup, and post pics. My girlfriend and I have a 10yr old rescued rough, and he's the best dog ever, but they can be quite neurotic, barky and intense if not exercised/given the right structure and environment. They're also sensitive flowers who will wither under harsh treatment, so avoid any and all 'dominance' training, but that should be a given.
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Sep 13, 2012 01:05
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Kerfuffle posted:If not, unless your cats are old or especially fat, you should be able to teach them to jump a baby gate. 
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Sep 13, 2012 19:54
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coyo7e posted:They make gates with cat doors. I bought one the other day for 30 bucks. Just a heads up for anyone lurking and following along here. Keep in mind that there are two types of 'gates' with cat doors. One is for dogs, the other is for babies. The ones for dogs will let most kids through given even a little effort, so make sure if you're looking for a gate that keeps X out but lets cats through to get the right kind.  
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Sep 13, 2012 23:01
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Somewhat of an interesting update about the puppies. When we applied the Frontline Plus (about two weeks ago now) we wanted to make sure it got on their skin, so we shaved off a bit of their fur. One of the puppies fur has mostly grown back, the other puppy looks like we just shaved her a day ago. Is this somethng we should go to the vet for? Her nose is nice and wet and she's active and eating. It's the same puppy with the bump on her stomach.
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Sep 14, 2012 04:13
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Tell me I'm not going crazy. Linus can hold it in the house until he can't. Last night, my wife and I lost track of time and while we weren't looking, he had a huge accident. We could tell he really didn't want to go in the house as there was dribble (both kinds) in the corner and a line headed out the door. He didn't make any obvious signals that he needed to go, but again, we were momentarily distracted (and felt awful afterwards). He can hold it much longer, however, in his crate. And for reference, he's 13 weeks old now. Is he house-trained or is this some kind of in-between state?
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Sep 14, 2012 19:44
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How long a dog can hold it's pee/poo is influenced by how much the dog has eaten/drank, how recently, and whether the dog is awake/asleep. A dog's body will slow down urine production while sleeping, just like yours. So basically if a pup is awake, expect it to need to go outside much more often than if it's passed out sleeping in its crate overnight. I wouldn't consider a dog house trained until you go a full month without an accident. It's easier to keep your guard up longer than you might need to vs. having to break bad habits.
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Sep 14, 2012 19:47
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Okay so he's not house-trained yet but since he's not spontaneously going in the house/doesn't appear to want to go in the house, he's making progress. He just needs more time to 'get it' better and better vigilance from Mom and Dad.
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Sep 14, 2012 20:07
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Hey guys I was hoping to get your input on our little situation here. We have a 2 year old male husky and we suspect that he's getting a little lonely. Lately we have been tied up more at work or with other obligations, and while we have time to still take him on walks and to the dog park most days, he sits in his dog run for 8-10 hours minimum on weekdays. Sometimes longer. Right now we are harbouring a female rescue dog on a 1 week trial and we were hoping they could be friends. This rescue dog is about a year old and listens very well. It only gets territorial around food and toys. We have put away all the toys (unless its times to play) and I monitor them when they eat just to avoid any clashes. While the rescue loves playing with my girlfriend and I, she will not play with our husky. We've tried playing with them at the same time but the rescue just ignores him. Is there any way to change her behaviour or should she just go back to the rescue acreage? Should we be actually looking at getting another puppy for a friend? Thanks!
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Sep 17, 2012 22:41
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My dog loving loves the doggy daycare we take her to more than any walk or the dog park. It's only 20 bucks a visit also and she always comes back happy and tired.
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Sep 17, 2012 22:48
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Do you leave her there everyday?
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Sep 17, 2012 22:58
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tipsybottom posted:Do you leave her there everyday? We leave her there 2-3 times a week depending on our schedule. We try not to leave her alone for more than 4 hours at a time. If I had the money I would send her off there everyday though because she loves it and the one I go to is really good. If you're in a big city you may be able to find a more specialized daycare where they'll let your dog really run or take him to the park because it's a husky.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:08
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I wouldn't expect a companion dog to replace exercise from you. I have 4 dogs and they'll wrestle and raise hell when I'm there but they all just go to sleep when I'm not. Some dogs will self-exercise like that, but a lot won't. Doggy daycare is a bit safer in that regard, depending on the business. I don't use it myself, but I do know people who take their dogs there every weekday, or even Monday/Wednesday/Friday, just so the dog isn't locked up 5 days a week. How long have you had the rescue dog? Is it possible to extend the trial? Generally speaking, if you are adopting a dog for a specific reason (like keeping your husky company), it is safer to adopt one who shows those tendencies from the start. There are ways to encourage dogs to play, but it's a gamble and odds are probably against it being successful when you're not there to encourage. However, a week isn't a long time and if she was playful with other dogs before you brought her home, she may still just be settling in.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:08
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2tomorrow posted:
Thanks for the responses guys. We set up a meet 'n' greet with the 2 dogs last week and they did seem to play. They were chasing each other around in circles for 10 minutes. So she could just still be settling in. After we brought her home she suddenly went into heat so maybe that's another reason why? It's quite funny because our husky is fixed and as I type this out my girlfriend is texting me saying that the rescue keeps trying to mount and hump his head. Poor fella.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:26
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We bought two big cages for our puppies but they don't seem to have dividers. The cages are loving huge and I read the FAQ and it said that was a bad thing. What should we do? Also, since we have two puppies, should we specify one crate for pup and enforce it, or let them go into each other's cages no problem?
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Sep 18, 2012 16:08
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Cuatal posted:We bought two big cages for our puppies but they don't seem to have dividers. The cages are loving huge and I read the FAQ and it said that was a bad thing. What should we do? I put an upside down milk crate in my puppy's crate to keep it to a better size when she was tiny. I wouldn't have a problem with the pups using either crate, but maybe someone with more experience with raising two dogs at once will chime in with better advice.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:16
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Cuatal posted:We bought two big cages for our puppies but they don't seem to have dividers. The cages are loving huge and I read the FAQ and it said that was a bad thing. What should we do? Anything that you can use to fill out or block access to the rest of the space in the crate is fine. The point is the reduce the amount of square footage area to just enough for them to walk in completely and turn around. It doesn't matter if it's blocked by an included divider, large block or milk crate so long as they don't have access to the "unwanted" extra space.
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Sep 18, 2012 17:40
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