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Jesus Christ, lol! http://goo.gl/CZPDt I found that while looking for a E30 convertible...
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Sep 12, 2012 02:58
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voltron posted:Jesus Christ, lol! http://goo.gl/CZPDt OK, ignoring for a moment the flushtard poo poo, questionable styling decisions, and  price tag - why does every single loving car done up like this seem to contain SWEET SONY XPLOD SUBZ? Regardless of how you feel about fly beatz systumz, this poo poo is sub-mediocre at best, and this car has obviously had a decent amount of money spent on it. You'd think he'd spring for something a little better than the loving garbage on sale at Best Buy, and just thrown into the trunk at that. gently caress, almost anything from a halfway respected brand would be better.
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Sep 12, 2012 03:06
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Black88GTA posted:OK, ignoring for a moment the flushtard poo poo, questionable styling decisions, and Because their mom didn't know better when they were out christmas shopping.
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Sep 12, 2012 03:10
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Ah yes, the six month (or so) Check Engine Light for sticky VANOS solenoid. It's actually to the point where I can feel the engine choke for a split second, and then the light. Thankfully it's a 15 minute clean process to remove and blast with the air compressor. On the upside, the E90 325 to 330 conversion is still totally worth it. 
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Sep 12, 2012 04:03
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Is that this? Looks interesting, but 1500 bucks for those parts seems expensive. Though I guess it is a 20 HP gain. I've been wanting to do something to get more power, but I'll wait til my CPO warranty runs out in a few months.
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Sep 12, 2012 04:37
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Ok, finally got the new pintle caps in the mail and installed them with the injector rail tonight. Here's a video of the second startup (I forgot the first time, first time had more initial rattle) and some running. Diagnose away! http://youtu.be/UHxsUWSUiYU I'll drive it around tonight. Revving when still it felt a bit hesitant, but I dunno, I'll see how it feels driving it. E: When driving it feels good, but there's definitely still a lag in acceleration. I'll take it to a shop tomorrow and see what they think. Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Sep 12, 2012 |
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Sep 12, 2012 07:13
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Alarbus posted:Ah yes, the six month (or so) Check Engine Light for sticky VANOS solenoid. It's actually to the point where I can feel the engine choke for a split second, and then the light. Thankfully it's a 15 minute clean process to remove and blast with the air compressor. On my e36 the CEL related to my Vanos means it's time to change the oil. It'll start to hesitate until I put in some fresh 0w40. I get a kick out of using oil with an icon of a bull dozer on the container.
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Sep 12, 2012 11:37
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Cojawfee posted:Is that this? Looks interesting, but 1500 bucks for those parts seems expensive. Though I guess it is a 20 HP gain. I've been wanting to do something to get more power, but I'll wait til my CPO warranty runs out in a few months. Yes, but I got the manifold complete from a junkyard online for $220 shipped, and the software was $820 shipped. For a 2006 325, it should be closer to a 40hp gain. Stock, it's at 215hp, and this brings you pretty close to a 330, which is 255hp. It's a smaller gain if you're starting with a 328, which has 230hp stock.
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Sep 12, 2012 12:13
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Deceptor101 posted:Ok, finally got the new pintle caps in the mail and installed them with the injector rail tonight. Here's a video of the second startup (I forgot the first time, first time had more initial rattle) and some running. Diagnose away! Actually, it sounds like a typical M62. Where in the rev band is it feel laggy? Off the line, mid rev or upper bands? Have you taken it out and just ran the piss out of it? Several full throttle launches and so forth?
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Sep 12, 2012 23:46
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Deceptor101 posted:Ok, finally got the new pintle caps in the mail and installed them with the injector rail tonight. Here's a video of the second startup (I forgot the first time, first time had more initial rattle) and some running. Diagnose away! The only untoward thing I hear is it sounds like you've got a leak in your induction system somewhere.
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Sep 13, 2012 02:14
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Alarbus posted:Yes, but I got the manifold complete from a junkyard online for $220 shipped, and the software was $820 shipped. Yeah, I've got a 328, so I'm skeptical about spending that much. I think I might just do the software and a CAI.
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Sep 13, 2012 05:50
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Cojawfee posted:Yeah, I've got a 328, so I'm skeptical about spending that much. I think I might just do the software and a CAI. I'm fairly certain most tests didn't show any gain from a CAI. The software remap is really nice, though. I went with Active Autowerks, and paid extra for the reflashing tool. The best way of making my car feel powerful and amazing again was to put 1500 miles on a Chevy Cruze rental in one week. 
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Sep 13, 2012 12:13
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MrChips posted:The only untoward thing I hear is it sounds like you've got a leak in your induction system somewhere. So I got a lean code back, which would agree with this. It's both banks too. I just did front and rear intake manifold gaskets, intake manifold to head gaskets, throttle body gaskets and full set of injector o rings upper and lower. Injectors don't appear to be leaking, so I didn't gently caress that up. I've also done the fuel filter. Assuming all those new gaskets are fine, what else should I look at that would lean both banks? I also cleaned the maf. The cats couldn't be clogged if it passes smog really cleanly right? If they were the car would be throwing a post-cat code too right? I'll check again for any loose vacuum hoses. Oh and I also did the osv and the breather hose that attached to it under the intake manifold. Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Sep 13, 2012 |
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Sep 13, 2012 20:16
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Deceptor101 posted:So I got a lean code back, which would agree with this. It's both banks too. I just did front and rear intake manifold gaskets, intake manifold to head gaskets, throttle body gaskets and full set of injector o rings upper and lower. Injectors don't appear to be leaking, so I didn't gently caress that up. I've also done the fuel filter. Assuming all those new gaskets are fine, what else should I look at that would lean both banks? I also cleaned the maf. The cats couldn't be clogged if it passes smog really cleanly right? If they were the car would be throwing a post-cat code too right? I'll check again for any loose vacuum hoses. Look for any busted ducting/vacuum lines downstream of the MAF. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 13, 2012 23:25
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Alarbus posted:I'm fairly certain most tests didn't show any gain from a CAI. The software remap is really nice, though. I went with Active Autowerks, and paid extra for the reflashing tool. Does it at least make the engine a bit louder? I was under the impression that manufacturers added the air box because it made the engine quieter. I just want to be able to hear my engine.
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Sep 13, 2012 23:28
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Got my e90 about 5 months ago and thought all four tires (Continental runflats) looked pretty good. Yesterday it rained and I was scared for my life-- got home and the rear tires are near bald! But the front tires still look really good. From my reading, even in RWD vehicles the fronts should wear slightly faster than the rears. I don't think it's my driving habits-- I'm not going around burning out or anything. I pretty much just drive the highway back and forth to work. Could something be wrong here?
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Sep 14, 2012 16:13
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Dromio posted:Got my e90 about 5 months ago and thought all four tires (Continental runflats) looked pretty good. Yesterday it rained and I was scared for my life-- got home and the rear tires are near bald! But the front tires still look really good. On my E36, I was going through a set of rears about every 10k miles. Turned out I had a torn lower control arm bushing on each side that was letting the tire wiggle like an eraser down the road.
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Sep 14, 2012 16:17
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Dromio posted:From my reading, even in RWD vehicles the fronts should wear slightly faster than the rears. I don't think it's my driving habits-- I'm not going around burning out or anything. I pretty much just drive the highway back and forth to work. Could something be wrong here? I have never heard this, or ever had it happen. Both my e36 and e46 needed rear tires before the fronts were done.
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Sep 14, 2012 21:36
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Thanks all. It looks like it's normal. The front tires are in fine shape, so I'm just buying two of the same rear ones. I'm going to be religious about rotating them until they all wear out, and then maybe I'll think about getting rid of the run-flats and going with something else.
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Sep 14, 2012 21:59
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My tires seem to wear evenly but also more in the rear. I have like 3/16 on the rear and 7/16 on the front. I also don't rotate.
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Sep 14, 2012 23:00
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Dromio posted:From my reading, even in RWD vehicles the fronts should wear slightly faster than the rears. If your fronts are wearing faster than the rears on a rear wheel sports sedan you are doing something terribly wrong and need to learn to have more fun.
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Sep 15, 2012 00:37
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Keep an eye on your bearing caps. Wheel bearings do not play nice with mud and sand. I'm not looking forward to pulling the studs out of these hubs.
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Sep 15, 2012 01:09
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Beach Bum posted:Look for any busted ducking/vacuum lines downstream of the MAF. There's one plastic insulated vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake elbow that I may have cracked, but I can't tell because of the insulation. I'll look at it later (at lemons now). Is there any chance its the fuel pump? 92k is really low for that, but it would explain the hesitant acceleration.
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Sep 15, 2012 02:07
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CornHolio posted:On my E36, I was going through a set of rears about every 10k miles. Turned out I had a torn lower control arm bushing on each side that was letting the tire wiggle like an eraser down the road. Yeah that can be it. I know E39's are notorious for burning through rear tires fast. Its more due to the angle of the rears than anything... But when you have almost 300 bhp at the front its kinda hard not to burn them off every once and a while
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Sep 15, 2012 08:08
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Is there some magic trick to getting rear swaybar endlinks on the swaybar for an e36? I managed to get my rear swaybar out (breaking every single bolt in the process) and now I cannot come close to pushing those links back on the bar. No matter how hard I try I can't force them on, even with lube. I'm gonna leave the rear bar out today since I'd rather get my 2nd rtab install done for autocross, but it's frustrating as hell not being able to reinstall new endlinks. edit: or not, I cannot get the RTAB carrier to go back in the pocket. It seems like is way off, I try to jack it up and the sheet metal hits the edges of the pocket. double edit: I am never doing RTABS on a rusty car again. The corrosion was so bad I had to sand away bits of rust on the INSIDE of the trailing arm bushing hole. I also now have a rear swaybar delete 
Crustashio fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 20:10
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Any e46 coupe owners have rattley armrests? Mine rattles/buzzes, and goes away when I put pressure on the rear of it. I've pulled the door panel off and verified the noise has stopped after taking a drive.
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Sep 16, 2012 00:23
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Does anyone know the make/model of the rims on this E39?
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Sep 16, 2012 00:45
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ADV1 05.1
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 00:58
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BMW noob here. Just bought this at a local auction, it was listed as a 2000 330i but all the 330i's online don't look like this. I don't get the papers for the vehicle until Wednesday and the car is debadged, so I was wondering if you guys could tell me what type of 3 series this is? 
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Sep 16, 2012 01:13
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dundun posted:BMW noob here. Just bought this at a local auction, it was listed as a 2000 330i but all the 330i's online don't look like this. I don't get the papers for the vehicle until Wednesday and the car is debadged, so I was wondering if you guys could tell me what type of 3 series this is? You were probably looking at pics of an e90 330i, that car you bought is an e46.. That could be an e46 330i, although I don't remember them ever being made for MY2000. It's probably either a 328i or 330i.
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Sep 16, 2012 01:18
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It's a pre-facelift E46 (the corner lights are a dead giveaway) which agrees with the claimed model year (facelift was 2002). I don't think we can really tell anything more from those pictures. Pop the hood. The Mercury Milan implies you're in the US so that body style could have any of the four non-M I-6 engines. The claimed model year had overlap with engines, so it could be a 323i, 328i, or 330i assuming the model year is accurate (the 325i replaced the 323i for '01, where the 328 and 330 were both available as '00s).
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Sep 16, 2012 01:24
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It's a 330i. You can tell because the headlight surrounds are silver instead of black.
an oddly awful oud fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 01:31
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If you want to find out RIGHT NOW what it is, just go to realoem.com and type the last 7 digits of your VIN into the serial number box; it will come up with exactly what your car is, with production dates and everything.
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Sep 16, 2012 01:59
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MrChips posted:If you want to find out RIGHT NOW what it is, just go to realoem.com and type the last 7 digits of your VIN into the serial number box; it will come up with exactly what your car is, with production dates and everything. Just did this and according to the website its 05/2000 E46 323i Sedan M52 engine. Well now that mystery is figured out, are there any notable issues these cars have? It currently has about 132k on the clock, no lights on the dash, may have a tranny leak and the mirrors will fold up electronically but have to be unfolded manually.
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Sep 16, 2012 02:34
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How much did you pay for it? If it's from an auction, there could be anything wrong with it. If someone has had it taken away from them, it could be a repo or something crime related, there's no telling if they kept up on maintenance.
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Sep 16, 2012 02:43
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https://www.bimrs.org is your new friend, find an Indy shop to give it a once over and then start budgeting for essential parts (mostly plastic engine/cooling pieces). I also just picked up my F10 535 that I had ordered back in July and it has a great 6 speed manual. It was the only one they'd ordered for someone in 2 years. I figured the bugs had been worked out of these since 2010 and this was the last time I'd ever be able to get one with a stick, so what the hell. Mods are forthcoming to get it more into a slightly nastier sport mode.   Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 04:50
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Wow that is a nice ride.
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Sep 16, 2012 13:51
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Keyser S0ze posted:I also just picked up my F10 535 that I had ordered back in July and it has a great 6 speed manual. It was the only one they'd ordered for someone in 2 years. Saw this posted by Bimmerfest. I can't believe Jon Shafer hadn't ordered another 6 speed in the 5 series for all of the bimmerfest guys who seem to clamor for them. Awesome looking car.
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Sep 16, 2012 17:51
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Beautiful car. Can I ask how much you paid or is it a lease? I would love to get something similar
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Sep 16, 2012 19:46
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Cojawfee posted:How much did you pay for it? If it's from an auction, there could be anything wrong with it. If someone has had it taken away from them, it could be a repo or something crime related, there's no telling if they kept up on maintenance. $3600, it was a repo. Judging from the illegal tints on the windows it was most likely a drug dealer or young person's car. I planned on flipping it because 330i's seem to go for 6-7k with similar mileage, but since its a 323i I doubt I'll get more than 4-5k so might as well keep it for a while. The good news is that all the fluids seem topped off and clean, it passed inspection sometime in the past 9 months and the previous owner installed a K&N air intake so it seems like it wasn't completely neglected.
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Sep 16, 2012 20:14
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