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EightBit posted:Holy poo poo dude you carry lots of parts. I'm glad I don't wheel that far from civilization I don't wheel all that far from civilization, only a few miles. I just drive a somewhat ragged jeep and beat the absolute poo poo out of it. All of those items are things I've broken wheeling, or nearly had break - never blown a serpentine belt at all, but the first time I changed it I looked at it and said to myself "this would really suck to have break far from home" so I stuffed the old one under the driver seat as a spare. You might notice I don't carry spare axleshafts for the rearend - it's an open diff, and a 29 spline 8.25 is good for way more than 33s open, so I don't bother carrying any as there is next to no risk of me breaking it.
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Sep 6, 2012 01:00
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He doesn't so much offroad as he does rally raid
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Sep 6, 2012 02:17
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I offroad too. You've just only seen me offroad at high speed   (this spring)    :  People get pictures of me doing dumb poo poo and not really going up anything, next time I'm out at that trail network I'll have to get someone to actually take some decent pictures.
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Sep 6, 2012 02:25
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EightBit posted:Holy poo poo dude you carry lots of parts. I'm glad I don't wheel that far from civilization All of those parts could be purchased for less than the cost of a breakdown and tow out of the bush. Another tip is to have your u-joint caps tack welded to the collars of the shafts. It's common to lose a u-joint bearing cap and then have the needle bearings fall out and the u-joint cause the collar to crack. On my 6x6, all the bearing caps have a second cap "plate" bolted overtop which prevents the u-join caps from walking off.
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Sep 6, 2012 03:31
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Sounds like "mechanics style" ujoints to me. Small jeeps take 5-153x type Spicer driveshaft ujoints with external G-clips, and 5-760x or 5-260x type Spicer axleshaft ujoints with internal C-clips, but a common mod is to either tack weld the axleshaft ujoints in like you said, or grind out a small amount more material inside the shaft ears, allowing a full-circle clip to be installed on each cap instead, which does a much better job of keeping the caps in place. I haven't done this yet, but really should. And you're completely right on how much those parts cost. * driveshafts - my rear spare cost me nothing, it is a 2wd MJ stock driveshaft I cut down and rewelded. Front cost me $30 at the local junkyard. * rear pinion yoke cost me $10. Actually, the replacement one on the axle cost me $10, the spare is my old one with a washer tack welded in where the ujoint cap retention nib broke off. * at least one each of front left/right axleshafts, preassembled with unit bearing installed - these are $30 each at my local yard. * tire - if you wheel without one of these you deserve everything you have coming to you * crankshaft position sensor - free, came with one of the random motors I bought for various projects over the years. * serpentine belt - free, serviceable but dodgy looking one I removed when I installed a new one. * upper and lower radiator hoses (used my spare upper a few weeks ago, should probably get another) - approx $20 * thermostat, gasket - $5 * water pump, gasket - $40 or so * tie rod, drag link (if far from home) - free, came with the front axle I bought from the junkyard to convert to 4wd. * ujoint straps or ubolts as needed - free, came with various axles and parts jeeps I've bought. * brake lines (not sure if I still have those in the kit) - $40 or so * set of balljoints (enough to rebuild one side of front axle housing) - $45 * throttle position sensor - free, it came with a motor I bought * fuses - $5 * ECU - I only started carrying this because I have some sort of electrical issue resulting in hesitation at mid throttle range and an intermittent low idle/stumble, was going on a long trip so I threw an ECU from one of my side projects behind the seat. Cost me exactly zero, it came with a full engine wiring harness a friend threw into the deal when I bought a motor from him for 100 bucks. Total $255, if I bring more than one spare front axleshaft assembly for each side, add $30 for each additional unit. Totally worth it for the peace of mind it gives me. I should also note that the driveshafts, pinion yoke, axleshafts, CPS, upper radiator hose, thermostat, tie rod/drag link, ujoint straps, balljoints, and fuses are all things I've had go bad on either the trail or pavement. I learn from my mistakes, every time I'm caught by surprise when something fails and I don't have a spare, it goes on the spares list. I used to also carry spare upper and lower control arms for the front suspension, as I was running stock ones and would occasionally fold one up by romping on it a bit too hard, but I haven't had an issue since I upgraded to aftermarket arms. Still, stock spares are available easily on jeep forums for the amazing price of $free usually, since everyone installs upgraded ones when they do a lift.
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Sep 6, 2012 04:38
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I definitely couldn't assemble that parts list for only $255. Mainly, I don't have a bunch of project Jeeps sitting around to borrow from. I don't spend my weekends in the junkyards around here either for fear of heatstroke (been over 100 all week with high humidity). I'll assemble some of that stuff (u-joints specifically, the ones I have now are almost done, gonna do all six soon) in the near future but have no idea how I'd safely carry that in my TJ along with tools and still be able to put the back seat in on a whim. How much does all that weigh? I guess it's good that I take it slow and easy over obstacles. My passengers are usually freaked out enough at low speed (can't blame them, looking forward and seeing only sky must be pretty scary the first time).
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Sep 6, 2012 05:21
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Weighs maybe 100-120lbs. The axleshafts, driveshafts, steering, and pinion yokes are the heavy parts aside from the spare tire, the rest is pretty light. Just carrying spare ujoints won't get you very far, as a busted axle ujoint usually manifests as a bent or egged-out axleshaft yoke ear that will break soon even with a new joint installed. That's why I carry spare shafts with ujoints and unit bearings preinstalled, it means I only have to remove the tire, caliper, and 3 unit bearing bolts to change out a broken shaft. With practice that's doable in 15 minutes.
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Sep 6, 2012 05:30
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I think my parts kit runs a few hundred, but with the H1 if I can't get it through army surplus I got to get it through the factory. With a jeep or domestic pickup you can grab a lot of stuff through pick and pulls if needed... I got 3 half shafts [offset front diff], idler arm and pitman, spare steering bolts,washers, spare tie rod, spare radius arm. That ran me about $500 to build, I keep it in a foam tray in a surplus case I toss in the back when I go on the trail. I keep my wrenches in a roll up, and a long tool bag of sockets and a few pullers. In the tool box I have a box of fluids, and stuff in tubes [grease/gasketmaker,etc], assorted bolts/locknuts, hose clamps and hose, a few tire repair tools. Some guy made a "plug kit" for drivetrain parts, my truck is full independent suspension, so there's hard plastic plugs for the differentials/transfercase and hubs, in case I bust something I can decide to pop out the halfshaft or propshaft, and plug it and operate the truck with the transfer case locked in 2WD or 3WD. Fortunately with all the poo poo I carry the only time I had to use any of it in the past 7 years was to cut and fix a power steering hose which took 10 minutes. Fortunately I never had to do a half shaft or ball joint in the field. I freak out a few friends who are new to off roading when they see all the poo poo I bring, but as someone stated above, all it takes is 1 rural/remote tow job to pay for all that stuff. Heck the tow guys on pismo beach charge like $300 to get a sedan out of the sand.. Most used thing I pull out of the back is the tow strap... it almost gets used all the time.
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Sep 6, 2012 18:51
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 For someone considering getting into this, should I just nut up and enroll in some mechanic courses at the nearest trade school?
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Sep 6, 2012 20:33
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soy posted:
Then you fight a family of wolves for their gold.
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Sep 6, 2012 20:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Think of it like one of them role playing games. When something breaks, you figure out how to fix it, fix it, and get experience.
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Sep 6, 2012 20:39
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InitialDave posted:The only quest I get from the farmer NPC is "Git orf moi laaaand". Is my game glitching? No, you just forgot to make a diplomacy check with the farmer before your current quest.
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Sep 6, 2012 22:31
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Always fails. It's probably because most British farmers use D90s (which are easier to roll than you might think).
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Sep 6, 2012 22:45
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Last year in Big Bear, we failed a charisma check with a pissed off environmentalist. Words were said, turned into a shoving match which spawned 1D4 Park Rangers. That was a fun day.
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Sep 7, 2012 00:03
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The problem is that you put your stats in "int" "logic" and "legal and constitutional reality". You gotta munchkin more. Also, environmentalist encounters mean your DM is a loving rules lawyer who hates you.
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Sep 7, 2012 00:11
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Hahaha, during my research... Reading about landrovers. One of the main reasons I've found that the cool 4x4 models aren't sold in America anymore is that they do not meet safety standards... For pedestrians.  In other news, I've been reading 4-wheel freedom which is an entertaining book. Also I used the search function, but I haven't been able to find a landrover specific thread if it exists, I am possibly blind and retarded. Finally, I saw this video of this very pretty landrover which I would probably have a sexual relationship with if I owned: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km4csdLb9w0
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Sep 7, 2012 06:47
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Going through my car picture folders and found a few photos of my old Jackaroo, almost makes me miss the bastard.  On a service road somewhere past Stanthorpe, just over the NSW border  On the beach near my Grandparent's place in South Australia  Offroading in an abandoned copper mine in my Hometown
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Sep 8, 2012 09:07
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Pretty much been mentally masturbating over the idea of owning a wrangler for the last week or so, thinking about going out to san diego to this place and renting one for a day: http://www.bnm.com/cabaja.htm My only question is, where should I drive it?
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Sep 15, 2012 03:03
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Anywhere you wouldnt be game to drive something you actually owned!
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Sep 15, 2012 04:22
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soy posted:Pretty much been mentally masturbating over the idea of owning a wrangler for the last week or so, thinking about going out to san diego to this place and renting one for a day: http://www.bnm.com/cabaja.htm I have been in the process of putting a Range Rover back together and found that its more capable than a wrangler. Look into Discoveries, they are cheap, capable as hell, and there is a huge community of support. Motronic can pretty much answer any question you may have.
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Sep 18, 2012 06:43
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I have been in the process of putting a Range Rover back together and found that its more capable than a wrangler. Look into Discoveries, they are cheap, capable as hell, and there is a huge community of support. Motronic can pretty much answer any question you may have. What? I find it a bit hard to believe that a Range Rover could be cheaper than a Wrangler, or have a community as large. Especially in the US.
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Sep 18, 2012 06:47
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I'm looking to pick up a new vehicle with off-road capabilities and hoping you guys can throw me some recommendations to look at. I've got a fair bit of experience of actually doing off-road stuff as my dad was huge into rock crawling. Did the Rubicon, Dusy, etc. Unfortunately I never really paid much attention to the other vehicles out there when I was in my teens. I'm looking for something I can daily drive (needs to be fairly reliable, though I have a 2nd car when needed), get decent gas mileage (for an off-road vehicle), and be fairly capable stock. Off-road use would be mainly for camping places normal vehicles can't get to - mountains and deserts. Not looking to do rock crawling or anything crazy. I'd probably put a mild lift and good AT tires and call it a day. I've mainly been looking at 4runners. I know they are really reliable, can get decent gas mileage, and are very capable stock, especially with a factory locker. Been looking at '85-88 first gens (fuel injected), and 3rd gens '96 - 2000 as that was the last year a factory locker was offered on the 3rd gens. I've heard bad things about the 2nd gen engines so I'm avoiding them unless told otherwise. What else should I be looking at? I'm looking to spend $4,000 - $7,000 but could go higher if I found something really great. I'll probably start looking into Cherokees, but not too interested in something like a Wrangler. I'd like to have more space than that. While I know of vehicles that will fit my goals, I'm looking for specific years / trim combos to look for and avoid like I'm doing with the 4runner. Vehilces I've considered / looked at so far: Jeep Cherokee - I haven't done much research on these yet. Any generations generally considered the best? Ford Bronco - Considered it for a bit, but the gas mileage kind of kills this option. Suzuki Samurai / Sidekick - I've heard of bad roll-over issues making them not so great for daily driving on a freeway or long trips, even though they are great off-road. Toyota Land Cruiser - Don't know a whole lot about them. Are they considerably as good as 4runners from the 90s? What else?
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Sep 18, 2012 08:21
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Hashal posted:Jeep Cherokee - I haven't done much research on these yet. Any generations generally considered the best? Look for a '99 Cherokee--later years had problems with bad heads, and earlier years didn't have as much power. You can easily find one in good shape for 4-5k. Don't be too worried about higher miles as the 4 liter engine will run for 200k+ with basic maintenance, and parts are dirt cheap when something breaks. Don't get the 4 cylinder version though. It's way down on power and still gets terrible fuel economy. Expect about 15mpg from the I6, it's not good but is worth it for a bulletproof engine. I'd look for a sport, classic, or limited trim too instead of the base trim as you get a much nicer instrument cluster with power, oil pressure, and coolant temp gauges instead of idiot lights.
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Sep 18, 2012 08:37
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mod sassinator posted:Look for a '99 Cherokee--later years had problems with bad heads, and earlier years didn't have as much power. You can easily find one in good shape for 4-5k. Don't be too worried about higher miles as the 4 liter engine will run for 200k+ with basic maintenance, and parts are dirt cheap when something breaks. Don't get the 4 cylinder version though. It's way down on power and still gets terrible fuel economy. Expect about 15mpg from the I6, it's not good but is worth it for a bulletproof engine. I'd look for a sport, classic, or limited trim too instead of the base trim as you get a much nicer instrument cluster with power, oil pressure, and coolant temp gauges instead of idiot lights. What this guy said. You need a 1999 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0 and 8.25 rear end. You can get something with less than 150k miles on it for $3000 or maybe less depending on your area. Then you take the another 2k of your budget and turn it into something really amazing and keep the rest for all the $100~ repairs you'll be performing yourself.
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Sep 18, 2012 15:06
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Went out to Tolar, TX last weekend to try out some of the rock trails. It was raining last week, so the trails were a lot muddier than expected. Unfortunately being the person with the camera means that I didn't get many pictures of my own rig wheeling. Here are some shots.     One of the guys also put together a little video that I thought was neat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UT-EjmkmjM4 On one of the hills, I lost traction going up and the mud sucked me over to the side and into a tree. My rear bumper took all the force and upon further inspection, it looks like I don't have any damage. I was lucky with that.
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Sep 18, 2012 15:10
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Agreed on the XJ suggestion. Right now XJs are like the Toyota of the 80s/90s, easily available, cheap to mod, and quite capable. If you like the boxy older body style aim for a 1995 instead. 95 and 99 are the best years, each has its own advantages and disadvantages. I'm partial to the 99s.
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Sep 18, 2012 15:21
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EightBit posted:What? I find it a bit hard to believe that a Range Rover could be cheaper than a Wrangler, or have a community as large. Especially in the US. Well, they are often cheaper. Wranglers carry a pretty decent premium if you haven't noticed. Parts are less available and sometimes more expensive, but there are plenty of specialty salvage guys to keep them going. He also didn't say that the community was as large, but frankly it's probably larger if you're talking about internet community/information. You have to remember that Landies and Toyotas are the two work horses of Africa/Australia/Western Europe. Most of the landie/overland forums I'm on are quite an international makeup. The brits on there are often invaluable resources, as these are their F150s/SChevy 1500s/what have you. They are dirt cheap for them, and everyone and their brother seems to have one behind a barn or in the back of the driveway for sloppy weather. They are probably more capable than a Wrangler for climbing due to their wheel base, less capable in tight stuff due to their wheel base, so overall about equal with the Disco sucking down a lot more fuel but providing a lot more storage space (which is why they are used as overland vehicles - you'll rarely see a Wrangler in that role because they just aren't big enough). They aren't for everyone, but they sure are cheap, easy to work on (for the most part - some of the Disco 2 electronics are a pain in the rear end), and readily available. Live axles with coils, sufficient power for their size, very good flex right out of the box..... They are ridiculously capable in stock trim, just like a Wrangler. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 16:03
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Motronic posted:Well, they are often cheaper. Wranglers carry a pretty decent premium if you haven't noticed. Would it not be more appropriate to compare a Disovery to a Cherokee or Grand Cherokee rather than a Wrangler? It just seems a bit apples and oranges to me. The Cherokee and Grand both have closer wheelbase measurements to the Discovery and a more closely comparable body type. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 16:14
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commissargribb posted:Would it not be more appropriate to compare a Disovery to a Cherokee or Grand Cherokee rather than a Wrangler? It just seems a bit apples and oranges to me. I wasn't the one drawing the initial comparison, but yeah....I'd say that's fair from a general size/wheelbase standpoint. Unfortunately for the Cherokees and Grand Cherokees (sans Quadra Drive II and Up Country package) don't seem to be able to keep up in stock trim in situations where suspension flex matters as they really don't flex well.....especially the back end of the Cherokees, where the wranglers seem (to me at least) to have comparable suspensions to the Disco (we're talking TJs, certainly not CJs). They are also not body on frame (like the Wranglers are), and the Landies have fully boxed frames which may or may not matter to you depending on what you plan on using the truck for and just how badly you intend to overload it or thrash it. So depending on which features you are looking at, choose which comparison works best for you.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:30
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Hashal posted:I'm looking to pick up a new vehicle with off-road capabilities and hoping you guys can throw me some recommendations to look at. Your idea of a more recent 4runner with the factory locker is a good one. Find a V6, rear locker model, and you're done. Auto or manual, though autos will be more plentiful. It will cover your intended usage scenario quite well. The rear locker instantly makes it one of the most capable out-of-the-box 4wds on the market in that price range, more so than a stock cherokee, plus you don't have the whole "might poo poo out a rear axle every time you touch the gas pedal" issue and other associated reliability issues. Sure, you can put a little bit of money into a cherokee to make it as capable as a locked 4runner, but if you just want to buy something and have it work on the first day for all your desert and mountain needs, go with the 4runner. You'll pay more up front for that convenience however. And if you decide to go nuts with modifications someday down the line, the 4runner is a fairly easy platform to build, given the real body on frame construction and ability to fit larger tires much more easily. Read up on how much work you have to do to a cherokee to fit 31" tires or 33's vs. a 4runner. It's laughable. That being said, the some of the newer long wheelbase Wranglers are a whole different story, so if you could put up with a removable hardtop instead of a permanent roof, they're a better package than either the 4runner or cherokee. The Land Cruiser is going to fall into the same category as the bronco, where the gas mileage might be a deal breaker. It will also be more expensive up front, and for parts down the line. Samurai/Sidekick roll over issues are overblown, but the highway ride might drive you nuts if you're not prepared to deal with it. The short wheelbase just doesn't play nicely with expansion joints on freeways. But that short wheelbase and small size lets them scoot a lot of places on tight trails that larger vehicles have to work harder to get through. You might have to get creative with your luggage packing though.
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Sep 18, 2012 17:26
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31s are easy to fit on an XJ, 33s slightly less so, but can be done in a few hours of body work with a 3.5" lift. Also, rear axle was already covered - you're probably talking about the dana 35, which is a true turd of an axle. The chrysler 8.25 rearend will handle anything you can throw at it on any tires up to 33s or 35s depending on if you lock it or not. 4runners are pretty cool too though, just don't get one with a 3VZE (the V6 used up till 95) from what I hear, they like to blow head gaskets especially on the #6 cylinder. Don't know anything about the motors used in 96 and later 4runners, so I'm not going to run my mouth about them.
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Sep 18, 2012 17:41
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Thanks for the info guys, very helpful. The newer 4 door Wranglers would be good, but well out of my price range right now. I'll look into the Cherokee some more as it looks like it will be between that and a 4runner now. Unfortunately with the 4runner's factory locker being optional, I'm finding very difficult to find them with it. What's the difference between the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee other than interior trim? I wouldn't mind a nicer interior as I'll be DDing it, but if it's going to cause me to sacrifice ability I'll pass it up.
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Sep 18, 2012 18:34
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Hashal posted:Unfortunately with the 4runner's factory locker being optional, I'm finding very difficult to find them with it. I believe it was standard with the "Limited" package, so that might help your search. Hashal posted:What's the difference between the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee other than interior trim? I wouldn't mind a nicer interior as I'll be DDing it, but if it's going to cause me to sacrifice ability I'll pass it up. There are a LOT of differences, starting with leaf springs in the back of the Cherokee, no availability of an 8 cylinder, and I don't think the Cherokee was ever offered with QDII). They aren't even built on the same platform. They are quite distinctly different vehicles.
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Sep 18, 2012 18:43
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Right now I have my sights set on a 2005 or 2006 LJ (The longer version of TJ, AKA unlimited). The longer wheelbase and cargo capacity suits my needs more. I like discos, have looked into them... But I personally feel the LJ has more benefits for what I'm looking for. I like the JK unlimited too but they are out of my price range right now.
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Sep 18, 2012 18:45
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The Grands are a bit more luxurious, but only come with crummy rear diffs (dana 35 or aluminum 44, neither is that good) and most have crummy chrysler slushboxes in them, though a few got some decent quality autos and a very few rare ones got standards. Some of the transfer cases (either the NV247 or NV249, I forget) get a bad rap as the viscous clutch tends to wear prematurely and causes lurching and groaning while turning unless it's fixed. Otherwise they're pretty decent and come with a rear 4-link coil sprung suspension unlike the rather flat XJ rear leaf suspension.
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Sep 18, 2012 18:52
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soy posted:Right now I have my sights set on a 2005 or 2006 LJ (The longer version of TJ, AKA unlimited). The longer wheelbase and cargo capacity suits my needs more. I like discos, have looked into them... But I personally feel the LJ has more benefits for what I'm looking for. I like the JK unlimited too but they are out of my price range right now. Also you get the 4.0L.
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Sep 18, 2012 19:03
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commissargribb posted:Also you get the 4.0L. Yeah, the main thing here is that for the foreseeable future I won't have a lot of spare income to be adding poo poo or changing it out. I like the stock package that I'm seeing on a lot of the LJ Rubicon listings, and the fact that with a limited budget you can make some pretty substantial modifications to the Jeep. Jeepforum and Wranglerforum have a fuckton of info on mods that people have done. I've seen a couple decent deals where people are including a fair amount of aftermarket/factory options which doesn't seem to inflate the prices that much. I don't plan on lifting it very much as I mostly plan on driving fairly tame dirt roads and city daily driving. I'm mostly interested in doing relatively simple cosmetic/body modifications such as armor, cargo, improved bumpers, added recovery stuff. I'd like to lift it a little but handling at higher speeds and fuel economy are pretty important to me so I'd want to re-gear and have good shocks or whatever is involved there to make it handle well which sounds pretty expensive. My mechanical knowledge is really rudimentary so I like that all the regular maintenance stuff I'm seeing jeeps need is stuff I know how to do. Oil changes, oil/air filters, etc. Also for the cars I've been considering the LJ's gas mileage is pretty drat good. I have a Prius right now so for dumb trips around town I'll just use that, but I'll be driving the Jeep to work every day when I don't feel like riding motorcycle since my wife monopolizes the Prius during the week. Geared Hub posted:Get these books, they will cover everything and I totally recommend them to anyone who wheels, lots of good information. Thanks for these recommendations I went and got both, really entertaining books and informative. soy fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 19:11
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soy posted:I'd like to lift it a little but handling at higher speeds and fuel economy are pretty important to me so I'd want to re-gear and have good shocks or whatever is involved there to make it handle well which sounds pretty expensive. You'd be surprised what a small lift can give you as far as increasing tire clearance and with a short 1-3" lift you're not going to need to make a lot of other adjustments for it to handle well on the road. oh hey wikipedia posted:In 2004, Jeep introduced the Wrangler Unlimited (unofficially dubbed "LJ") with a 10-inch (250 mm) longer wheelbase (LWB), a Dana 44 rear axle with a 3.73 gear ratio and the Command-Trac 231 transfer case. ^so there's that too. You'll probably be able to cram 31's in with no issue. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 19:27
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Motronic posted:I believe it was standard with the "Limited" package, so that might help your search. From my research the Limited came with an electric button to switch from 2WD to 4HI on the fly, but the locker was still optional on all models. Being in San Diego, there is probably a good chance more of these actually have lockers on them and just aren't listed in the ad's I'm looking at. Time to start calling. Edit: I'm also finding it a lot easier to find lower mileage Cherokees compared to the 4runners. Can anyone throw a ballpark price for adding a locker to a '99 Cherokee? Loan Dusty Road fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 19:40
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commissargribb posted:You'll probably be able to cram 31's in with no issue. Very nice. 31's are about as high as I'd go. Hopefully this time next year I'll be in a murdered out LJ doors off top off doing doughnuts on a somewhat remote beach in Northern California.
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Sep 18, 2012 19:45
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