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jamal posted:Regardless, if it is somehow due to the banjo screen and you have been buying the oil at the dealership I would be talking to corporate and lawyers if they're not going to fix it. Yeah, every change but one (more than 25k mi ago, done by me, have documentation) has been done at a subaru dealership just because they'll keep electronic records of the maintenance online, and I know I lose things like that sometimes. That and I spilled about 3 qts of oil in my fiancee's garage doing it... I was considering going the legal action route, more seriously now that you've suggested it, since serious deposits definitely shouldn't have happened in less than 3k miles on synthetic oil. I'm thinking to take it to a performance shop in phoenix (FAT, forced air tech, if anyone has anything positive or negative to say about them - I hear they're good) to get everything documented by a third party anyways. They can document if the AVCS/turbo banjo screens are clean or not, and also check the oil pickup. Also gonna get an oil pressure (maybe temp too, while I'm at it) gauge before they do the pickup check just to see if it's down on pressure, like you're suggesting. What sort of pressure I should be looking for at idle/what's the best way to see if I'm down on pressure if I don't have a baseline from my motor (when healthy) to compare with?
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Sep 13, 2012 23:54
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Idle it's going to be around 10-20psi and then the minimum spec is 43psi at 5000rpm but I have never seen a car with pressure that low. Usually they will make 80+psi above like 2k rpm. I have some friends at FAT and they should be good folks to talk to. Otherwise ums but they are more of an evo shop. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Sep 14, 2012 |
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Sep 14, 2012 01:16
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AFewBricksShy posted:Can you elaborate? I prefer the 4th gen styling, but were there mechanical defects in the new design? It's purely personal, I just hate the styling and packaging direction they've taken. The made it really big and frumpy, the interior almost entirely consists of silver plastic and they got rid of the boxer thrum. The only upside I can discern is the increased front headroom.
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Sep 14, 2012 01:49
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jamal posted:Idle it's going to be around 10-20psi and then the minimum spec is 43psi at 5000rpm but I have never seen a car with pressure that low. Usually they will make 80+psi above like 2k rpm. Cool - I'll let them know you recommended them. Thanks for all the oil pressure info too, it's usually hard to come by from a reliable source. How's the tuner at FAT, if you know? I haven't seen very many cars done by them, but they were real eager for me to come in last I talked to them - since I'll probably sell off the new turbo if I get one under warranty and go with the Blouch offerings, they'd be the ones doing my tune. I have heard they're great about backing up the work they do, and that they don't overcharge, which is more than you can ask for from some shops. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Sep 14, 2012 |
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Sep 14, 2012 02:07
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Short of cutting/splicing the wires, or ripping the drat thing out, is there a way to turn off the seatbelt chime? I always wear my belt when driving, but it's loving annoying as hell to just be sitting in the car listening to music with the engine not even on and hear "ding ding ding ding ding ding" until I buckle up. I saw something about plugging/unplugging the buckle 20 times in 30 seconds to tell the car to disable it, but I'm skeptical that it'll work.
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Sep 14, 2012 18:32
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Hillridge posted:Short of cutting/splicing the wires, or ripping the drat thing out, is there a way to turn off the seatbelt chime? I always wear my belt when driving, but it's loving annoying as hell to just be sitting in the car listening to music with the engine not even on and hear "ding ding ding ding ding ding" until I buckle up. Tur car to "on" but not running. Put it in and out of the slot slot as fast as you can 30 times. Turn car off and restart. It will still give you the initial five dings when you turn on the car, but it disables it after that. I've done this on two late model subarus, worked first try both times.
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Sep 14, 2012 18:44
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That worked. Haha, you glorious bastard. Edit: 2006 Impreza for reference
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Sep 14, 2012 18:59
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Confirmed on my 2003
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Sep 14, 2012 19:40
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What's the general consensus on the 2.0L in the non-turbo Impreza's? Do I have to worry about blowing head gaskets?
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Sep 14, 2012 19:52
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whiskas posted:What's the general consensus on the 2.0L in the non-turbo Impreza's? Do I have to worry about blowing head gaskets? Nope, only the earlier 2.5 N/A's had the head gasket issue.
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Sep 14, 2012 20:28
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Oil change at the dealer results in no more turbo seizing noises (and it's being a lot quieter now), AVCS functional again. Almost definitely clogged or disintegrated banjo screens I think - I'm imagining that the clogs were pulled out during the oil change, or dissolved, unless there's a reason an oil change would solve issues with a cracked pickup. FAT is removing the screens and taking photos if there's anything still in them, assuming they're still intact.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:17
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Can someone confirm for me the OEM WRX brake bleeder bolt size? I'm sure it's 8mm but I can't for the life of me get it to turn. It just feels like slipping and I think I'm going to strip the bolt. Assuming that's not already the problem.
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Sep 16, 2012 01:16
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Well, on Friday I am picking up a set of winter tires and some wheels for the STi. A guy is selling a set of Enkei RPF1's (15.6lb each) and brad new Dunlop WIntersport M3's for $750. that's like less than half MSRP so I am going to swap my summer tires onto the Enkeis and use the stock BBS wheels for winter use, since they have a few little pits and stuff. 
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Sep 16, 2012 13:51
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Well, on Friday I am picking up a set of winter tires and some wheels for the STi. A guy is selling a set of Enkei RPF1's (15.6lb each) and brad new Dunlop WIntersport M3's for $750. that's like less than half MSRP so I am going to swap my summer tires onto the Enkeis and use the stock BBS wheels for winter use, since they have a few little pits and stuff.
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Sep 16, 2012 17:07
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Well I just bought my first Subaru. I was looking at a 2005 Legacy GT wagon with 70k miles and I was really close to sealing the deal when I decided to check out another GT nearby. I got there 5 minutes before another guy and bought it during the test drive. 2005 Legacy GT Limited sedan, 33k miles, 5-speed, full service records and a brand new set of blizzaks for less than $12k. I basically stole it. First things first I'm going to get new wheels & tires for the fall. I'm pretty sure I want Rota G Force 17x8 but totally undecided on tires. The blizzaks are going back on in Nov/Dec depending on whether we have a nice mild winter again, but I don't want to run them all autumn. Any suggestions? Marvin K. Mooney fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 18:09
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^^^^^^ Sumitomos HTR ZIII if you're cheap like me. I assume you did a leakdown before buying? Amandyke posted:Presumably you would use your cheaper wheels for winter use... Bbs > enkei. Superlight cast wheels won't last long in winter duty. nm fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 20:33
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Amandyke posted:Presumably you would use your cheaper wheels for winter use... Bbs > enkei. I'd rather use wheels with pitting and scratches in the winter and super light wheels in the summer. If my BBS's were perfect they'd stay on for summer use.
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Sep 16, 2012 21:26
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Finally pulled the engine out of my wrx. At least 1 junked rod bearing, and there was a lot of chunks of metal in the bottom of the pan. Time to figure out how to fix this thing.
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Sep 17, 2012 04:40
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My WRX came with both the stock wheels and a set of 17" Enkei High Performance ZRs (as pictured several months ago). As one of the tires on those Enkeis had a broken belt (Toyo Proxes too  , not a lot of life left anyway), I switched back to the stock wheels and later bought new tires.I don't see myself ever using the Enkeis, and storing a full set of wheels with tires in my apartment bedroom is a little awkward. The wheels are in OK shape, there is significant curb rash on the obvious wheel. The other three are fine. What would be a good asking price for these on Craigslist? I'll get some pictures up later.
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Sep 17, 2012 13:57
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nm posted:^^^^^^ The docs included a full service which checked compression and a bunch of other stuff. The PO was enlisted and drove it rarely, but he had his daughter change the oil at least once a year and turn it on every weekend. I'll check out those tires, going to order the wheels this week. Kinda want to get gold, but I'll probably stick with bronze to keep it as un-flashy as possible. My neighborhood, I need wheel locks on my wheel locks.
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Sep 17, 2012 16:47
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babies havin rabies posted:My WRX came with both the stock wheels and a set of 17" Enkei High Performance ZRs (as pictured several months ago). As one of the tires on those Enkeis had a broken belt (Toyo Proxes too No idea about the price, but out of curiosity, where are you located?
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Sep 17, 2012 16:57
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Safety Dance posted:No idea about the price, but out of curiosity, where are you located? Royal Oak (Detroit), MI
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Sep 17, 2012 18:55
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Blah. Other side of the country.
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Sep 17, 2012 19:26
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Bah, about to head off skiing and my STi decides to vomit coolant all over my driveway, split radiator tank. I've been quoted around 650us to have it replaced by the dealer, any reason I should look at a non stock replacement? Version 7 wagon, 128k km, street use only.
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Sep 17, 2012 22:23
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Definitely go not-stock and have someone other than the dealer do it because it will just happen again. The koyo aluminum radiator is my preference but you can save some money on a mishimoto. They are both less than what you are looking at and give you some added cooling capacity.
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Sep 17, 2012 22:26
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jamal posted:Definitely go not-stock and have someone other than the dealer do it because it will just happen again. The koyo aluminum radiator is my preference but you can save some money on a mishimoto. They are both less than what you are looking at and give you some added cooling capacity. Is it worth looking at a repair? I called a specialist who suggested this over the replacement, said that it is what they usually do, involves a new top tank, was a little less than half the price
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Sep 17, 2012 22:55
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Chunderbuss posted:Is it worth looking at a repair? I called a specialist who suggested this over the replacement, said that it is what they usually do, involves a new top tank, was a little less than half the price A new oem style radiator should be around $100 and it shouldn't take much longer than an hour to replace the radiator. No idea how they got $650. I got my replacement radiator from 1800radiators.com
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Sep 17, 2012 23:35
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Hey Jamal, because I am a dumb dumb babby I bought the Whiteline 22mm front sway bar bushings for my Legacy GT, but I have the stock sway bars, will those fit? Will they work?
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Sep 17, 2012 23:38
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mulligan posted:Hey Jamal, because I am a dumb dumb babby I bought the Whiteline 22mm front sway bar bushings for my Legacy GT, but I have the stock sway bars, will those fit? Will they work? I think the front bar is 20mm, so no there will be a gap. You'd better play it safe and buy a 22mm front swaybar to go with them. I know a guy who can get you a good deal.
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Sep 17, 2012 23:52
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jamal posted:I think the front bar is 20mm, so no there will be a gap. You'd better play it safe and buy a 22mm front swaybar to go with them. I know a guy who can get you a good deal. I just cheked and is 21mm, OK, can you send me the details? nledesma at gmail . com Thanks!
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Sep 18, 2012 00:04
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I'm a big fan of the electric parking brake and all wheel drive, but it terrifies me whenever a valet or somebody tries to drive my car. The following post is just a vent. I went to get my car washed this morning. The car wash near my work has you get out of the car, and a driver sends your car through the thing. Then people dry your car off, and another driver drives your car to some sort of waiting area where you pick it up. Well, I was the only person there, so I was just chilling and watching my car. The second driver got in, started it up, didn't release the parking brake, ground up the clutch, and stalled it out. He then started it up again, didn't release the parking brake, ground up the clutch, and stalled it out. He then started it up again, but I walked over and was able to (with just a little shouting) convince him to let me take it from there. He told me I'd need to back up a little bit to get it over the wet plastic speed bump in front of the car. I didn't bother correcting him, I just AWD'd straight over it.
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Sep 18, 2012 15:20
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Noticed some bubbling paint around where my rear bumper meets the wheelwell.. on both sides. About the size of a quarter on one side, a bit bigger on the other. Connecticut has some pretty humid summers and salty winters.. how long can/should I wait to take it to the body shop to get it taken care of? All of my other cars have been rusty junkers so I never would have bothered before, really have no idea how much this could cost me or how urgent it is. Don't have the tools, space or knowledge to handle it myself, either. 2003 wrx, 65000~ miles.
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Sep 19, 2012 08:50
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dag01 posted:Noticed some bubbling paint around where my rear bumper meets the wheelwell.. on both sides. About the size of a quarter on one side, a bit bigger on the other. Connecticut has some pretty humid summers and salty winters.. how long can/should I wait to take it to the body shop to get it taken care of? All of my other cars have been rusty junkers so I never would have bothered before, really have no idea how much this could cost me or how urgent it is. Don't have the tools, space or knowledge to handle it myself, either. Just a hazarded guess here but... not a second longer than you can help if you can afford it?
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Sep 19, 2012 10:51
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Faerunner posted:Just a hazarded guess here but... not a second longer than you can help if you can afford it? That's pretty much the answer I was looking for. Any idea how much it will cost me?
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Sep 19, 2012 11:16
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dag01 posted:That's pretty much the answer I was looking for. Any idea how much it will cost me? I can't help you there, but I'd suggest getting at least 4-5 quotes and then asking around and checking reviews on every place you get a quote from, not just going with the cheapest option.
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Sep 19, 2012 11:21
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dag01 posted:Noticed some bubbling paint around where my rear bumper meets the wheelwell.. on both sides. About the size of a quarter on one side, a bit bigger on the other. Connecticut has some pretty humid summers and salty winters.. how long can/should I wait to take it to the body shop to get it taken care of? All of my other cars have been rusty junkers so I never would have bothered before, really have no idea how much this could cost me or how urgent it is. Don't have the tools, space or knowledge to handle it myself, either. My mechanic pointed this out on my drivers's side rear wheel well (2002 WRX, 100k miles, Michigan), exactly in the spot you are describing, and said I need to get it taken care of, or it will rot to the size of a baseball within two years. He said it would probably be $200-$300, which is nothing compared to what it will do to the value of my car if I let it go. Mine is about the size of a dime in total area. If your's is a quarter I'd get on that. Thanks for reminding me to get mine to the shop. babies havin rabies fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Sep 19, 2012 |
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Sep 19, 2012 13:00
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My 2011 STi with 10.4k miles is at it again. This time, the clutch pedal is popping/ticking when I depress or release it, especially if I do so slowly. It only does it for gears 1-3 and highway use it is smooth. It makes noise/feeling even when the car is off and in neutral. For this reason I believe it is not something major, but I still have a dealer appt next week. I've read about the bearing that couples the pedal to the pivot rod, which also supports the brake pedal, going bad and giving symptoms like these. I do drive in alot of stop and go traffic, but I have never once launched the car or anything and generally don't even get into boost unless I'm going up a hill. Even though i feel like warranty will take car of it, this is still another pain in my rear end. Its one thing afte another with this car. I should have just bought a Camry.
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Sep 19, 2012 16:21
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If I am installing a JDM STi engine in my 2002 WRX, what am I going to be able to reuse? Will the transmission still bolt in? I realize I need a new ecu. Will my exhaust work or is it different with the different turbo? Looks like the STi engine will be the cheapest option over rebuilding my 2.0l, or getting a new 2.5 block.
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Sep 19, 2012 21:17
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Depends on the engine you get. If it's twin-scroll and dual avcs your downpipe won't work and you will have to replace most of the wiring harness. The single scroll, single avcs stuff is easier. everything bolts up and you only need to add a few wires for the avcs to work (you do need the ecu to go along with it. The one thing you will run into is that the jdm cars don't have odb2 so if you are in a state that does emissions testing you won't be able to do it.
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Sep 19, 2012 21:23
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:My 2011 STi with 10.4k miles is at it again. A very correct statement if what you say here is true of your driving style. If you weren't interested in performance, why would you spend so much money on a rally bred awd turbo charged sports car?
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Sep 19, 2012 21:30
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