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Cataphract posted:heroscape? In preparation for the new Chaos Codex I'm going to finish up a squad of Noise Marines and a Slaanesh Giant I made waaaaaay back when the Giant kit came out. I'm thinking about rebasing the Giant as a 40k Keeper of Secrets. Roughly 6-7 year old photo of the Giant WIP: Original paint scheme: I decided about 3 years ago to try a cleaner, gaudier Slaanesh scheme. Wasn't at all happy with it and couldn't get it to be one I liked so I gave up, but now I'm picking it up again. Check out that WICKED skin tone! Real pleased. The Noise Marines are using some resin-cast guitars and bitz I made a few years back: I'm planning to paint them with similar pinks, blacks, purples and golds to the Giant/Daemon. If anybody has any interest in buying these, PLEASE let me know! I don't play Chaos, and my last ebay auctions have been really disappointingly cheap. I'm open to offers, and can re-paint or re-base them to your standards to match your army. Noise Marines should be getting a boost in the new Codex, so it's a good time to buy. You can PM me or email me at p.h.dolan at gmail. Expect updates soon! BuffaloChicken fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Sep 20, 2012 |
# ? Sep 20, 2012 21:06 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 21:29 |
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Flipswitch posted:Sweet, looks like I'm avoiding it! Thanks mate. The glazes are some of the best paints in the new range but you can't use them like a wash really, I have all 4 and I wish there were more
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# ? Sep 20, 2012 21:57 |
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Bavius posted:I'm taking from Les Bursley's Speed Freak/Evil Sunz scheme which involves liquid frisket to produce this chipping. Which frisket did you end up using? I've been curious to try this with some things, but I've always been afraid that I'd buy the wrong stuff and mess everything up.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 00:20 |
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C-C-C-oval office posted:The glazes are some of the best paints in the new range but you can't use them like a wash really, I have all 4 and I wish there were more Agreed, they're really amazing, but are meant to be used as well, glazes and not washes. The green is probably my favorite.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 00:34 |
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BuffaloChicken posted:I decided about 3 years ago to try a cleaner, gaudier Slaanesh scheme. What did you use to strip it that didn't eat away at the green stuff? I've got loads of models I'd like to remove the paint from but in my experience practically everything turns any kind of modelling putty into mush. Maybe I just leave them too long.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 00:40 |
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Shut up and use Simple Green.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 00:52 |
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Myopic posted:What did you use to strip it that didn't eat away at the green stuff? I've got loads of models I'd like to remove the paint from but in my experience practically everything turns any kind of modelling putty into mush. Maybe I just leave them too long. He probably just primed/painted a new layer over the old one.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 01:14 |
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Fix posted:He probably just primed/painted a new layer over the old one. I usually just reprime models. Almost every single Catachan in my army, and probably about half of my Tyranids, are at least in part donations or ebay rescues primed over. I thinks it's absurd that people go through so much time and effort to restore a tiny level of detail which their mediocre painting skills won't even do justice. Check this. All the same model. No fucks given. Unless you're going for a Golden Daemon or the paint is already super gloopy, just re-prime.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 01:33 |
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Got some work done on my hellbrutte and some old seraphim I've had sitting about for years and years. I couldn't find the rounded lip base he came with, didn't care enough to look for it or order a new one.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 02:17 |
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Too much bitching and moaning in the 40k thread. Have some new minis and terrain. Fun with water effects on Biovore and Weinerfex: Cult man: One of my old Eldar got a weapon swap from a Dark Elf sword and a paperclip: More terrain still to come. Also, to honor my Catachan, look at my night light: BuffaloChicken fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Sep 21, 2012 |
# ? Sep 21, 2012 05:41 |
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Loving the pond and the Wienerfex! Is this what we get for not complaining?
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 09:18 |
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Buy weinerfex as your av dude.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 12:15 |
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BuffaloChicken posted:Too much bitching and moaning in the 40k thread. Have some new minis and terrain. This is really great. Do you make the terrain or is this available somewhere? I want to get some columns for a secret project
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 15:29 |
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crime fighting hog posted:This is really great. Do you make the terrain or is this available somewhere? I want to get some columns for a secret project That looks like fish tank stuff.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 15:33 |
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CrotchPheasant posted:Which frisket did you end up using? I've been curious to try this with some things, but I've always been afraid that I'd buy the wrong stuff and mess everything up. I went with vallejo's liquid frisket. The stuff smells like rear end though, made me rush the test a bit.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 16:10 |
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Well, it looks like I am getting into Circle Orboros. If you don't know/play Hordes, they're basically a bunch of Druids and their werewolf/beastmen/forestkin friends. I've seen people do similar groups (like Warhammer Wood Elves) using a seasonal theme, like Winter or Autumn - pretty sure someone actually posted their Autumn-themed Circle in this thread before. I thought that was a cool idea but I didn't just want to swipe their deal, so I was thinking of doing Spring instead. Which is all well and good, but I'm not actually sure what that means, besides sticking lots of tiny leaves and flowers to anything woodlike. So I'd appreciate some input on the following: 1) What are the best colors for 'Spring'? Right now I am thinking a bright green, a warm brown, and using accents in colors like sky blue, yellow, maybe lilac or orange? 2) What is a good metallic for spring? I feel like silver is very winter, bronze is very fall, but spring...er? Help! 3) In all this, what's a good way to make it clearly Spring and not, well, Summer. I feel like Fall and Winter have very clear tones, but Spring and Summer sort of goop together in a general green-and-bloomy phase. 4) Other ideas would be welcome! Should I install maypole? Add morris dancers?
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 17:07 |
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Pale gold for metallic, maybe? Also, this may seem like a joke, but how about pastel colors? They remind me of Easter and therefore of Spring. I guess sky blue and lilac are already taking you in that direction. Good luck with that, it sounds really neat.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 17:10 |
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Pale gold is not a bad idea, I might try that out and see how it goes. I am not really opposed to pastels if they work, and like you said some of it is already kind of in that direction. I just want to avoid painting my giant angry werewolf in like, soft pink. Or teals, because I have so much teal on my Eldar already.
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# ? Sep 21, 2012 20:48 |
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Because Lychguard are kickin rad and I am sick of seeing Wraiths ( more lovely cell phone and lovely attempted light box ) :
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# ? Sep 22, 2012 02:13 |
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Man, I don't play 40k, but I sure am tempted to pick up a necron model or two. Those are great.
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# ? Sep 22, 2012 02:19 |
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New Necron stuff is boss. I assume what happened is that the first ten years they were boring as gently caress GW was actually stockpiling their potential, and then just released it all in the last wave. There is so much amazing stuff and great kits.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 00:28 |
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Alright, I left a resin piece (the top half of a Wraith Engine from Warmachine) in simple green for a couple of days, and when I pulled it out the resin was rubbery. Will that ever go away/is there any way to fix it? The model isn't ruined it's just sort of non-ideal.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 02:19 |
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counterspin posted:Alright, I left a resin piece (the top half of a Wraith Engine from Warmachine) in simple green for a couple of days, and when I pulled it out the resin was rubbery. Will that ever go away/is there any way to fix it? The model isn't ruined it's just sort of non-ideal. Rubbery resin has been chemically altered (read: compromised), so it won't turn back to normal. I was unaware that Simple Green could do that, however. As for fixing your problem, try spraying the part with a coat of gloss varnish; I have no idea how it will turn out, but the idea is that you're putting a candy coat over the resin which should give it a bit of stiffness.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 03:13 |
I got a lot done this week. I not only completed my Chapter Master after ripping apart a Space Hulk Sarge, but I got 7 our of the eventual 19 death company painted up. First up, my Lyssander counts as, who is also the Chapter Master of the Skulls of the Archangel. And now, the Death Company. Seven down, twelve more to go.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 06:18 |
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Given that I don't see any alteration to the surface detail, I'll probably just prime over it and give the second piece a shorter bath for stripping.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 06:18 |
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Well, first big model for me. Very intimidating to start, but was a lot of fun once I got into it. http://imgur.com/a/6cRuO At a loss of what to do with the vents though... just circle the top with the grey highlighting I did on the shell? Paint the inside of the tops? Eh, either way I am happy with how he turned out. The front arms are still off due to magnetizing equipment still coming.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 07:09 |
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At the very least, continue your highlighting style around the outside of them, just to complete the scheme. I might take the same bone color from the spurs on the back plate to the ridges inside the vents (or you could pink them), but others would tell you different.
Fix fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Sep 23, 2012 |
# ? Sep 23, 2012 08:42 |
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Alright, so 740 pages is just waaaay too much for me to read, but I am really keen to start getting in to doing some painting of miniatures because I haven't done it before and now I have the time, money and motivation (at least, for now!). However, I don't have any tools/kits so far and while I have time to paint, I don't so much have time to go around shopping in person. I've read the OP over a few times, and I am wanting people's assessments on certain items, if they are a good deal or not... Citadel Tool Kit - Seems to have all the tools I would ever need in there, plus so more. Good or terrible idea? Or are only some of these tools useful, and I would be better off buying just some of them? Citadel Paint Station - Seems like it would be handy, but of course it encourages you to buy their paints, water pots etc as I'm sure those are the only ones that will fit. Plus their cutting mat board thingy. Paints and brushes I am happy to go buy whatever of online, Reaper/Vallejo, thewarstore.com seems to have a pretty wide range of paints and brushes at decent prices? That GamesEmpire site isn't the straight up cheapest one in Australia, but it's the nicest website to link things to in a post like this. Any advice/assessment would be appreciated, the less money I waste on tools the more tiny men I can buy.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 12:07 |
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Between Macragge Blue and Kantor Blue, which is the best match for the old Mordian Blue (despite what the conversion chart says)?
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 12:08 |
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Bavius posted:I went with vallejo's liquid frisket. The stuff smells like rear end though, made me rush the test a bit. How easy was it to remove? Any tips for someone planning to try it? I'll be using it in larger areas for camo effects. Gammon posted:Any advice/assessment would be appreciated, the less money I waste on tools the more tiny men I can buy. I've never used GW tools, but I've heard they're about as good as anything else (except their superglue, which I hear kinda sucks... get Zap A Gap instead). If the price is cheaper than buying separately, go for it. I wouldn't bother with the paint station unless you like to paint in your lap. I'd much rather paint at a desk so everything is closer to eye level and I can rest my elbows on it if I need to. For brushes, the general recommendations are Winsor & Newton Series 7, Da Vinci Maestro, or Raphael 8404. I think there's another brand from the UK named Rosemary & Co that's also highly recommended. As far as paints, that's another can of worms entirely. I'd recommend to start with GW, since they're the most common (and pretty decent), and expand from there. Most people eventually start to pull things from other lines because it fills a gap or does something better.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 15:00 |
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Kolinsky's another good brush maker. Some of the better brands can be pretty hard to get hold of if you don't buy via web, though.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 15:10 |
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CrotchPheasant posted:For brushes, the general recommendations are Winsor & Newton Series 7, Da Vinci Maestro, or Raphael 8404. I think there's another brand from the UK named Rosemary & Co that's also highly recommended. Rosemary brushes are wonderful, especially to learn with because they are very cheap to replace plus being of good quality.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 15:12 |
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Mango Polo posted:Rosemary brushes are wonderful, especially to learn with because they are very cheap to replace plus being of good quality. Do you know what the sizing standards are like for rosemary brushes. Say if i use a w&n size 0 is it the same size?
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 15:49 |
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Do you know what the sizing standards are like for rosemary brushes. Say if i use a w&n size 0 is it the same size? I'd love to see something like this for all the major brands.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 15:57 |
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JesustheDarkLord posted:Shut up and use Simple Green. I know you're joking but the closest thing in the UK to Simple Green that I know of (Dettol) completely messes up green stuff. Thanks for the suggestions. Don't really think just repriming will work, since I want to switch from black to white. That's probably going to need a bit too much paint. On that note, what's the best/cheapest white spray primer in the UK?
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 16:01 |
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Myopic posted:I know you're joking but the closest thing in the UK to Simple Green that I know of (Dettol) completely messes up green stuff. Halfords does a load of cheap plastic primers. Not sure if they are the cheapest out there but the grey one has been great for me.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 16:03 |
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Myopic posted:I want to switch from black to white. That's probably going to need a bit too much paint.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 17:53 |
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thespaceinvader posted:Kolinsky's another good brush maker. Some of the better brands can be pretty hard to get hold of if you don't buy via web, though. Kolinsky isn't a brand, it's a type of bristle hair. All the brands mentioned are kolinsky.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 18:21 |
Gammon posted:Alright, so 740 pages is just waaaay too much for me to read, but I am really keen to start getting in to doing some painting of miniatures because I haven't done it before and now I have the time, money and motivation (at least, for now!). However, I don't have any tools/kits so far and while I have time to paint, I don't so much have time to go around shopping in person. I've read the OP over a few times, and I am wanting people's assessments on certain items, if they are a good deal or not... I realize you're Australian but I'm going to assume prices and stuff are mostly the same as the US for non miniature stuff. I wouldn't buy the tool kit unless you're feeling really lazy about buying things separately. You can probably get everything but paint in one trip to a hardware store and one trip to/order from an art supply store. As far as tools go the main thing you need is an X-acto knife which you can get at Walmart or wherever for $5-10, including extra blades. (Also be very careful with this because it can seriously cut you, and change the blades when they get dull.) You'll also need some sort of clippers to cut stuff off the sprue, a low profile wire cutters will do the job just fine. Get a couple nice brushes and take care of them, Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver is good for brush care and the 1oz container for $4 will last you forever. A hand drill and files are important for metal models but they're not too important if you're doing GW stuff since they're transitioning away from metal. You can always use a regular drill to drill out barrels and stuff if you're careful. A wet palette is very helpful and can be made for a few bucks using the guide someone linked in the last couple pages of this thread. Any of the paint lines are good, GWs new line might be the easiest for beginners now. If space is a premium the Citadel paint station might be a good buy but if you've got room in a corner somewhere I'd just buy a small rectangular folding table for $30 and leave all your painting/modelling stuff on it.
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 19:29 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 21:29 |
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Huh, that's news to me. I wonder what brand mine are, than, cause all they say on them is 'pure kolinsky sable Germany'. Don't I look an idiot >.<
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# ? Sep 23, 2012 19:37 |