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I'm by no means an expert, but I think once clowns reach sexual maturity they no longer will switch from male to female. Also, how small is the gold strip maroon? Are you sure it is not already female? If so, it will not switch to male and if you have two females, yes, you will have to re-home one. That said, I would not be surprised to see an aggressive clown like a maroon clown act like that, especially a female that already claimed territory. She may just be asserting her dominance because he is new. Sorry, not much of an answer. Hopefully someone else will know more.
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Sep 20, 2012 20:12
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The gold stripe is about an inch, the other is about an inch and a half to just under two inches, both are still pretty young fish as far as I know.
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Sep 20, 2012 20:48
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Oh, then they should both be fine. I'm assuming you had the lights off last night? Are they acting any better? Another thing you can try, if the original clown was hosting in something, move it to a different spot in the tank for a couple of days. May help with the territorial issues.
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Sep 20, 2012 20:55
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Yes, I put the lights off after I acclimated the gold stripe and dropped it in. Like I said before my maroon was hosting in come cualerpa I have growing in the tank. I added a green bubble tip at the same time as the gold stripe. My maroon instantly started hosting in the green bubble. Loves it and is having a blast in it, but it is in the same area as the caulerpa. I can try digging out the plant and move the anemone to the other side of the tank and see if that scrambles the territory enough, if that sounds like an ok idea let me know.
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Sep 20, 2012 21:00
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I wouldn't move the anemone. He is the most fragile. I wouldn't worry about the caulerpa either, that sounds like a pain in the rear end. Is the new clown getting anything to eat? If so, I would give it a few more days and then go from there. Maybe throw in a day of lights out for good measure.
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Sep 20, 2012 21:25
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Yeah, he's eating. I feed the bigger one and make sure it is distracted then move over and feed the smaller. It's really not shy at all. I'll go ahead and shut my timer off tomorrow and leave them in the dark. The anemone moved itself. :/ Here's hoping it finds a suitable place to sit soon.
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Sep 20, 2012 21:44
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Now, hold on a minute. All clownfish can/will go from juvenile to male to female. Female is the terminal phase of the clown's sequential hermaphroditism, called protandry. By definition this is ONLY done when they're "sexually mature".
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Sep 21, 2012 03:20
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api call girl posted:Now, hold on a minute. All clownfish can/will go from juvenile to male to female. Female is the terminal phase of the clown's sequential hermaphroditism, called protandry. By definition this is ONLY done when they're "sexually mature". Isn't that what I said? Sorry if my wording was confusing.
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Sep 21, 2012 05:01
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Internet Explorer posted:Isn't that what I said? Sorry if my wording was confusing. quote:I'm by no means an expert, but I think once clowns reach sexual maturity they no longer will switch from male to female. Not quite. If a single male clown is in a tank, no matter how old it is, it will switch to female.
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Sep 21, 2012 06:03
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api call girl posted:Not quite. If a single male clown is in a tank, no matter how old it is, it will switch to female. Ah, okay. Then I misunderstood you. Good to know. I guess people just say to get a small clownfish to be on the safe side. That way it cannot be female yet.
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Sep 21, 2012 12:55
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Internet Explorer posted:Ah, okay. Then I misunderstood you. Good to know. I guess people just say to get a small clownfish to be on the safe side. That way it cannot be female yet. It's easier to go by in-tank dominance displays. Simply don't buy the bigger clown that chases the little ones away in a juvenile holding tank.
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Sep 21, 2012 13:46
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Well, I ended up buying a 30" Current Sundial T5 4x24W fixture for less than $100 bucks off of ebay. It comes with brand new ATI bulbs, although the guy couldn't tell me what colors. I like that the fixture has built in timers, and a photocell that automatically turns on the moon led's when it gets dark. Anybody know why they discontinued these fixtures?
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Sep 21, 2012 14:37
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day 3 update. I turned on the lights to check on my tank, The bigger clown is loving the anemone still. I dropped in a very small bit of flake food and watched to make sure everyone would eat, The gold stripe was able to come out and enter the territory of the maroon without being attacked. The smaller of the two snatched a mouthful of food then hovered in the area for a moment and swam back to the other side of the tank. Baby steps I guess.
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Sep 21, 2012 20:03
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That's actually not bad for maroons. Read the PNG Lightning Maroon Project blog from last year or so to see how bad "dates" can be when pairing fully adult specimens.
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Sep 21, 2012 20:08
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I think about to pull the trigger on one of these: http://www.marinedepot.com/Maxspect_Razor_R420R_LED_Light_Fixture_24_Inch_LED_Light_Fixtures-Maxspect-0M1131-FILTFILDTF-vi.html My Kessil a150 could probably work just fine for the cube but that light is sexy as hell.
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Sep 21, 2012 20:47
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api call girl posted:That's actually not bad for maroons. Read the PNG Lightning Maroon Project blog from last year or so to see how bad "dates" can be when pairing fully adult specimens. I haven't read the whole story on the lightning clown, but my roommate is nuts over it. My reef guy in Moore actually informed us just recently that they successfully had it breed.
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Sep 21, 2012 21:50
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Terminal Philosphy posted:I haven't read the whole story on the lightning clown, but my roommate is nuts over it. My reef guy in Moore actually informed us just recently that they successfully had it breed. Not only that, they had the aberrant stripes trait show up in a good number (up to 50%!) of the juveniles. Though time will tell if they are going to be anywhere as great-looking as the adult. And maroons take a long-rear end time to breed and raise and breed, as compared to ocellaris which have a ridiculously fast turnaround, or percs which are only slightly slower. VAGENDA OF MANOCIDE fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Sep 21, 2012 |
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Sep 21, 2012 21:59
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Maroons are frequently complete assholes to each other, I'm not surprised that they're like that. At the LFS here there's generally only one in a tank when they have a bunch. I guess I'm lucky in a way since I don't use RC... the Canadian forum I frequent is pretty chill and people are good about answering questions. There's the oddball sometimes but overall I think because it's smaller you get fewer problems.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:52
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After researching, and researching, and researching more I've decided that my CUC is far too small for my tank and needs to be bolstered. But in the process of all that I found a good deal on some base rock. Now I've wanted to add more rock to my tank since the original set up because I have a bunch of empty space at the top of my tank (almost half the tank) and my question is how much rock is too much. My display is 45gallons and I'm just under the lb per gallon guideline at ~40 lbs, but I want that poo poo full of rock. Could I add another say 30lbs of rock and be alright? FTS for reference 
Henchman 21 fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Sep 23, 2012 |
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Sep 23, 2012 03:44
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I would not add more rock, honestly. Bringing rock too high leads to shading and can cause flow deadzone problems.
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Sep 23, 2012 17:45
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api call girl posted:I would not add more rock, honestly. Bringing rock too high leads to shading and can cause flow deadzone problems. Interesting you bring this up. Allow me to show you an oversaturated lovely cellphone picture of my biocube 14:  The tanks been up and running for about 6 months now. I have about 17 pounds of LR in there and there is a rock on the left, a rock on the right, and one rock on top of the rock on the left. I have noticed some shadow issues and I've had some dead spots since I made this tank up, no matter what rockscaping I tried. So, I'm thinking of taking off the top rock. Would there be any adverse effects to this? I would think with the sand and the other two rocks I wouldn't be impacting the biological filter too much, but that's why I'm asking. Obviously, this would be a one shot deal. If I take one rock out, that rock can never go back in unless I boil it and make sure all the stuff is dead on it. I've thought about upgrading the filtration (upgraded the back sump already, and have a koralia nano 240 in the display) from the 240 to the 425, but it's already got a lot of motion in there as it is. Comments/suggestions? On another note, I've always had a little bit of red bubble algae in this tank. I had been running chemipure elite/purigen in the back until about a month ago (right around the time I replaced the stock lights with LEDs). I had heard the chemipure elite was a waste of money so I was going to buy some GFO and carbon off bulk reef supply but decided to go another route. I recharged the purigen and put it in the tank. Since not having chemi-pure elite in there and moving to LEDs, the bubble algae has increased moving to some other parts of the rock and the substrate. Currently, I have reduced the lights from 10 hours to 8 hours. Just did that today. Also, I bought an underwater light off inTank and grabbed some chaeto from the LFS yesterday. I'm hoping this will be a breeding ground for some more copepods to grow for my tailspot blenny-there used to be TONS as I originally started with chaeto in the tank, but got rid of it because of the mess...I've rectified this by putting the chaeto in the media basket on top of some filter floss. So I have reduced the lighting from 10 hours to eight hours, chaeto in the back running a reverse light cycle along with some purigen. I also bought an emerald crab about a week ago. So far I haven't seen much improvement...but I'm curious how much bubble algae one crab can eat where I'll start to notice a difference. Thanks for any help/suggestions you guys can think of.
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Sep 23, 2012 21:59
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nwin posted:I also bought an emerald crab about a week ago. So far I haven't seen much improvement...but I'm curious how much bubble algae one crab can eat where I'll start to notice a difference. If the crab is eating it and he's fairly small, it'll take a couple of weeks before you notice anything. In my experience, if you're getting an expansion of the bubble algae, the crab won't be able to keep up with the new growth. I ended up getting 4 emerald crabs and dumped them into my tank when I had a bubble algae problem. I kept an eye on them and it looked like only one of them would eat the bubble algae while the rest just ignored it. After a month and no noticeable improvement, I started carefully pulling the poo poo out with tweezers, cut down my light cycle, etc etc. After another 10 days or so, I noticed and improvement and about 3 days after that, it was gone.
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Sep 24, 2012 19:18
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So my buddies have gotten me into saltwater tanks two weekends ago. Starting with a 40 gallon breeder tank and 20 gallon sump running just a sock and skimmer for the moment. My original "stand" was a small dinette table, which was shady as hell, so my father had his shop weld together a stand out of 1" steel bar. Yes, my dad intentionally built the stand larger than the spec I gave him, and I do not know why, but I kind of like it and have ideas for it. The sticky note were the results of a water test we did last week. Decided to join in since the PetCo around the corner did their $1 per gallon tank sale, so got the two tanks for only $71 after taxes. Right now only have a blue damsel and striped damsel and about 10 pounds of rock. This is after about 1.5 weeks. I hope to get some lights this weekend and some more fish and bottom feeders, then will get into coral. Still working out what I want to do with the sump as well (bio balls, refugium etc). All my tank photos for anyone interested...
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Sep 25, 2012 20:17
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Read, read, read. Is your tank cycled? If not, get the damsels out of there. And don't gently caress around with the stand unless you'd enjoy 60g of water on your floor. Doesn't sound like a lot, but I assure you it is. You said he made it too long, which we can see in the picture. Is the right-hand side of the tank resting on a brace, depth width wise? If not, you are not supporting the tank properly and it is only a matter of time until it cracks. [Edit: Actually, looking at your other pictures it does look like the "width" frame of the tank is supported, so you should be okay.] You also don't have nearly enough rock. And that looks like dead rock, which means you do not have any good bacteria growing on them yet.
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Sep 25, 2012 20:24
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Thanks for the concern, but rest assured, things are OK, other than the amount of rock. One of my friends is pretty well versed in reef tanks and has been my guru/guide getting into this. While the tank cycle is not complete, it was cycled enough to put two hardy damsels in there, according to my friend that is. But after the water test that was done on Saturday, my friend says those two will be just fine, but he did say to let the tank cycle more before getting into more fish yet, and until I've decided on the way my sump will ultimately end up. I did not mention it in my last post, but some of the rock is live, and more is going in this weekend as my friend is bringing a bunch from his shop he works at. As for the stand, you did read it is 1 inch thick steel square tube, right? I am 245 pounds, and I was standing on it doing little jumps, it doesn't budge. You are correct, there are braces right along the short edges of the tank, and another in the middle. If you look at the other link to the rest of my tank photos, there are more photos of the stand by itself. But the stand is rock solid. I told my dad to make a stand that can hold around 500 pounds, he said this stand should support up to almost 1000 as again, it is steel bar and not hollow tubes. Fermunky fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 20:42
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I wasn't worried about the steel holding, I was worried because on the picture you posted it is hard to see if the side is being supported. Looks like it is, which is why I edited in that you should be fine. Your friend doesn't know nearly as much as he think he does if he is suggesting you put in damsels before your tank is cycled and before you have a significant amount of live rock in there. I am not trying to be insulting, just being blunt because we are talking about living creatures. The way your friend is directing you is out of date and not recommended these days. Ammonia build up is going to basically torture those fish, if they make it through in the first place. It is also apparently by the bioballs / refugium question. If you can, take the fish back. Get the live rock in there and watch parameters for a few weeks. Read up on the nitrogen cycle and "cycling a tank." I would absolutely recommend a reugium. Looks like you will probably need a few power heads as well. What types of lights are you going for? Reef tank or fish only?
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Sep 25, 2012 20:48
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The lighting for now will be for fish only. I probably will not look into coral for some time because I know the prices vary significantly for lighting when considering fish only and reef. So I'll start with just some lighting to show the tank a bit better, then later down the road (tax season?) get some proper lighting to get into coral. My friend does actually know what he is talking about, most of what I put in here is from my own reading and is likely not translated very good. He has been coming over every couple of days to help maintain the tank while I am bringing it to life. Edit: I just realized I never mentioned that the fish were in a separate tank for a week while mine cycled. I had initially put them in without my friend's knowledge as I had a comically bad misunderstanding of his instructions, so they were pulled out and put into another tank. We put the fish in after doing the water tests Saturday. The time between starting my tank and putting the fish in was 8 days. If the sticky note is still there, I'll post up what the results were. Fermunky fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 20:53
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That's good. Salt water tanks can be very rewarding, glad to see you are getting into the hobby. My suggestion is to read, read, and read some more on sites like ReefCentral or Nano-Reef. There is a lot to learn and the knowledge isn't always organized in the best of fashions. With a 40g breeder you have some cool choices as far as lighting goes that won't break the bank. I'd still suggest bringing the damsels back to the store.
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Sep 25, 2012 20:56
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Seconding the read, read, then read some more thing. You don't even have to venture very far out, read this thread! Not saying your friend is wrong either, but it's always good to get info from multiple sources. Congrats on the tank, and I hope it does well! Whatever you do, please don't put a tang in there. Thanks in advance. If you look back a couple pages, you can see my 40br build, which is just what you did. Petco $1/gal sale!
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Sep 25, 2012 20:59
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Yeah, I agree with everything you've said. I am fortunate to have specifically 3 friends all into reef tanks, at varying levels of success and knowledge too  I'm looking forward to growing this tank. While I am a little over one week into it, I've just begun my reading... and reading... and reading. Thanks everyone!
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Sep 25, 2012 21:19
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Take your time man and use the poo poo out of the search function on Reef Central. Search just thread titles and you can pretty much find an answer or general consensus to every question you might have.
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Sep 26, 2012 00:27
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I last had a marine tank over 2 years ago, we can finally get some "nice things" in NZ - Such as Blue Linka starfish, Hermit Crabs, and urchins! Main reason I broke down the last tank I had was because of crappy health, realised that humidity was probably the biggest factor. So, with that in mind, looking to go for LED lighting, full hood, with ducting for heat outside (through very handy window) Main tank i'm thinking about is 3x2x2 (1 foot for return / overfow / more water volume / refuge.) Sump, approx 2x2x2, which will leave me space for a tall & narrow tank for topups. With my 2x2x2 cube, I had all plumbing routed through a false wall, including overflow, backup, and return. This kept external plumbing to a minimum, i want to do the same thing again., however topupups still sucked Design - Everything must be contained inside the cabinet. Sound - Must be QUIET, as this will be in my room (Insulating foam between joints and panels) Humidity - Must be kept to a minimum, hence hood. Timeframe: Next winter, so plenty of time to purchase equipment, spread costs, and not do things too dammed quickly. Which is what happened last time as well. With my 2x2x2 cube, I had all plumbing routed through a false wall, including overflow, backup, and return. This kept external plumbing to a minimum, i want to do the same thing again. Before I start to lay down any cash, has anyone had any experience with LEDs? Homebuilt or store. With the hood, i'll be able to adjust the height fairly easily. Also plan on using polished 1mm or .5mm stainless to reflect light back into the tank. If anyone can point me to LEDs that are 240v and don't cost millions, would be much obliged (also searching reef central, so much info)
markoshark fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Sep 27, 2012 |
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Sep 27, 2012 10:04
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markoshark posted:Before I start to lay down any cash, has anyone had any experience with LEDs? Check back a page, or perhaps two, there's lots of LED homebrew talk and suggestions
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Sep 27, 2012 20:42
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It's been a while since I've posted in this thread, so I figured I'd give you guys an update. I'm currently running a 30g shallow reef build (24x24x12). Here's the tank as of August: And as of today:  What do you guys think?
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Sep 27, 2012 22:39
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cculos posted:It's been a while since I've posted in this thread, so I figured I'd give you guys an update. I'm currently running a 30g shallow reef build (24x24x12). Here's the tank as of August: Looks gorgeous. On the subject of LEDs, does anyone know of a controller that works with meanwell LPF series drivers? I was going to pick up a typhoon, but they have issues with lpf drivers. I'm probably going to have to swap out my current drivers for ones that work.
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Sep 28, 2012 00:19
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Very nice cculos. How long has it been running? You should take a closer shot. Also, are you using two MP10s? How do you like those. I'm thinking about splurging on one of those and a RKL setup.
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Sep 28, 2012 02:32
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visuvius posted:Very nice cculos. How long has it been running? You should take a closer shot. Here's a closer FTS, but I just got done re-scaping the rock so everythings a bit hidden right now. Thanks for the kind words!  As far as the power heads are concerned, they're not MP10s. As much as I would love to have them, the $250-a-pop price tag isn't anything that I can justify right now. Currently I'm running two Hydor Koralia Nano's. Between that and my return line I think the flow is close to 30x. EDIT: The tank has been up and running, in one form or another, since June of last year, and some corals were taken from a nano tank prior to that (though not many). Here's a picture of the original BC14 nano that I had:  When I moved into my office, I broke that tank down and focused my effort on a 40g breeder:  Unfortunately, the tank suffered from poor water quality eventually because I didn't have access to clean water and had to source distilled from the local grocery store. It became a tremendous effort to keep things running. Also, Zoanthid eating Nudibranchs decimated my zoo population (I HATE those bastards). So I ditched most of the live rock, saved my corals and ported everything over slowly into the tank you see now.
cculos fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Sep 28, 2012 |
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Sep 28, 2012 02:56
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Your tank looks amazing  I have 1 mp10 and a mag 7 as the only flow in m 40br and everything seems to love it.
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Sep 28, 2012 03:12
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SaNChEzZ posted:Your tank looks amazing Thanks! If you look about half way towards the back on the left hand side you'll see a crop of large polyp zoos. When I first saw them at the LFS I was absolutely blown away:  Beautiful, right? That was taken about 2 months ago. It's since cropped up from 6 polyps to about 15-20. I have to move the rock soon to its final place before the polyps extend beyond and onto whatever it is they're sitting on. Can't wait! EDIT: Also, I got the above frag for $20. Steal if you ask me
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Sep 28, 2012 03:23
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Rearranged my rock work, I think I like it a bunch more this way. 
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Sep 28, 2012 22:17
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