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Cat Hatter posted:I've finally decided to stop putting off putting new brakes on my Cherokee. Is the preferred combination still Hawk LTS pads and the cheapest rotors I can find? All things being equal, I do have a preference for Advance Auto but I'm not married to them. Just did the front brakes on my XJ a few months ago and I went with Napa's basic rotor and premium ceramic pads. Couldn't be happier with the combination--it's smooth, quiet, and doesn't make a ton of dust. I think the whole job was under $120 in parts too.
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Sep 12, 2012 03:26
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| # ? May 25, 2024 01:52 |
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After roaming around the junk yard today looking for parts, I saw about 3 Cherokees that were in good shape minus motors... one was only 200 bucks.... How dumb of an idea would it be to buy it and plop in an engine, obviously after the seville is finished.
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Sep 12, 2012 03:44
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BrokenKnucklez posted:After roaming around the junk yard today looking for parts, I saw about 3 Cherokees that were in good shape minus motors... one was only 200 bucks.... How dumb of an idea would it be to buy it and plop in an engine, obviously after the seville is finished. Seems like a pretty cool project. Though given all costs, you could probably get a complete one for what it costs to buy a $200 shell and a motor. VVV listen to what this guy says about XJs 
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Sep 12, 2012 |
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Sep 12, 2012 16:58
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A rust free shell is worth around that no problem, but my worry would be retitling it. Make sure it isn't a salvage/scrap only type title before buying (check what your state calls them), because the point of those is that they can never be cleared and reregistered. Also, you run the risk of inheriting some problems the previous owner scrapped it for, for instance the transmission, transfer case, wiring, or axles may be junk. Check it over carefully before you make your decision...
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Sep 12, 2012 17:29
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I hate to think how many nice XJs were scrapped with cash for clunkers too. However they probably aren't in great shape sitting in junkyards for the last 3 years or so.
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Sep 12, 2012 17:39
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C4C vehicles angered me... most of the XJs I saw were 100% rust free and therefore worlds better than my daily driver at the time. Wish I'd had more time and money to grab as many good parts as I could off them before they got crushed. They were all supposed to get crushed by the next summer (iirc, summer '10) so if you see one in the yard somewhere, grab as much of what you need off it ASAP, because it probably won't be there long.
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Sep 12, 2012 18:40
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mod sassinator posted:I hate to think how many nice XJs were scrapped with cash for clunkers too. However they probably aren't in great shape sitting in junkyards for the last 3 years or so. Cherokee 4x4s were the 6th most traded in vehicle for the cash for clunkers program. Almost 700,000 cars were traded in, so there will be tens of thousands less XJs on the road thanks to that poo poo. This article says 91,000 Ford Explorer 4WD and Grand Cherokee 4WD were traded in, so probably what, 20-30,000 or so XJs got crushed? That is decades worth of parts and chassis gone.
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Sep 12, 2012 20:35
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Woooo new stuff for the Jeep! Gotta love that time and a half OT I'm getting at my new job! lol Smittlybilt SRC Side Armor  And I know most people say it's just for looks, but I had to install a front trackbar relocation bracket after I installed my lift, and with the single stabilizer there I couldn't install the bracket. So $40 later I now have dual steering stabilizers and will be able to install the front trackbar relo bracket now!  Not sure what to do next now. Probably some sort of rear bumper to match the new front one, or a winch, or more lights, or oh my god I need more money lol
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Sep 13, 2012 01:15
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Do you have lockers and spare axleshafts already? A high-lift? Valve stem remover and onboard air system? A small set of tools to do emergency repairs? Those are all things I'd put on the list, especially if you want to do some real offroading. Throw a decent CB radio and possibly a 2 meter Ham radio + antenna on the list too especially if you ever go anywhere alone, even if you don't have your ham license, the FCC is very understanding about breaking their regulations when the reason is to make a distress call.
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Sep 13, 2012 03:13
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My list starts with rock sliders. When the current tires are due for replacement, new wheels and tires, then shortly after, a regear to 4.10 and lockers. Next (maybe earlier, if I find money) will be a front bumper/winch.
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Sep 13, 2012 06:25
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kastein posted:Do you have lockers and spare axleshafts already? A high-lift? Valve stem remover and onboard air system? A small set of tools to do emergency repairs? High-lift is on the hood and toolbag is something I put together after my first wheeling trip. Has all the common socket and wrench sizes, misc screwdrivers and other tools one would possibly need out on the trail. I'll have to look into on board air, sounds cool. I think some quick disconnects for the front might be in order next as they aren't overly expensive.
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Sep 13, 2012 11:21
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gently caress you Jeep! gently caress you too rust! Rear u-joint grenaded itself.
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Sep 13, 2012 22:07
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mattfl posted:High-lift is on the hood and toolbag is something I put together after my first wheeling trip. Has all the common socket and wrench sizes, misc screwdrivers and other tools one would possibly need out on the trail. I don't have it built in, but this compressor is really nice for the money: http://www.amazon.com/Industries-MV...=air+compressor It's shockingly powerful, not too loud, and pretty reliable (mine survived being submerged in a flood no problem).
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Sep 14, 2012 02:45
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freestyl posted:gently caress you Jeep! That has to have been making a lot of noise for a while. Did you get lucky and avoid destroying the nibs retaining the ujoint caps? Assuming a stock rearend (8.25, 44, 35, doesn't matter) it's a 5-136x ujoint and a 2-70-18x strap/bolt kit, so at least you shouldn't be out too much cash. I believe both are available from northern drivetrain for under $20 combined.
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Sep 14, 2012 03:26
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kastein posted:That has to have been making a lot of noise for a while. Oh yeah, was waiting until I had the cash to take it to a shop. I dont have a space to work on anything so I had put it off.
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Sep 14, 2012 04:04
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You can change those yourself with a 3lb hammer, socket set, 5/16 6 point box wrench, pb blaster, and vise grips, in a vacant lot. What year XJ? If it is 96 or later, pull the rear driveshaft out the rest of the way, put it in 4wd part time, drive it carefully to the nearest empty parking lot or vacant lot, and get to work. Hell if you were anywhere near my area I'd do it for a 12pack and the parts, unless it broke something swinging around under there it is literally the easiest project ever. Did the one on my old XJ two summers ago and the one on my MJ a few months ago in a gravel parking lot after breaking it on the trail.
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Sep 14, 2012 15:37
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Yes it's a 2000 haha If only I knew that at the time. Thanks for the lesson! Oh well, roadside assistance covered the tow to a buddy's shop. I wanted to have it looked at anyways because I suspect issues with the rear diff and maybe the pinion bearing. I'm actually a few hours north of you in Maine. I'm just glad this didn't happen two weeks ago when I was 3 hours north of where I live out in the middle of nowhere in the woods.
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Sep 14, 2012 15:54
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How long/fast can you go without a rear driveshaft and in in 4wd?
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Sep 14, 2012 21:58
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It's not so much speed that's the problem, it's turning. You can actually get too much traction on pavement while in 4WD (because the system is trying to make the outer wheel match the speed of the inner during a turn) and it can cause binding in the components, not to mention some twitchy oversteer. And you can't just pull the shaft and drive off with all models...some transfer cases have a female input shaft that will leak fluid with the rear drive shaft pulled. A Gatorade cap and some duct tape will usually fix that problem though.
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Sep 14, 2012 22:30
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Philip J Fry posted:It's not so much speed that's the problem, it's turning. You can actually get too much traction on pavement while in 4WD (because the system is trying to make the outer wheel match the speed of the inner during a turn) and it can cause binding in the components, not to mention some twitchy oversteer. Isn't this only the case if you are locked in the differential? 4wd locks the front and rear wheels to the same speed, not the inner and outer wheels. Or am I wrong here? rally fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 00:19
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rally posted:Isn't this only the case if you are locked in the differential? 4wd locks the front and rear wheels to the same speed, not the inner and outer wheels. Or am I wrong here? I have a stock Dana 30 and it feels like it locks both sides. I just did a quick test of cutting the wheel all the way to one side and engaging 4wd. You can feel it.
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Sep 15, 2012 00:56
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The binding when in 4wd during turns is the result of the back and front axles trying to turn at different speeds. During a turn the front axle rotates more covering more ground as it swings around while the rear pivits on the inside wheel covering less area. With the center transfer case lock both axles will turn at the same speed no mater what but that means the one or both diffs now have to spin a outside or inside wheel at a speed slower or faster speed than it normally would during a turn.
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Sep 15, 2012 02:37
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I have done 65 in ghetto FWD but it was a hair raising experience and I only went far enough to limp from rausch creek to the campground I was at so I could fix it. I should note it was only that scary because I have a front autolocker and a manual transmission, so any throttle modulation, shifting, clutch usage etc caused significant torque steer - in different directions based on whether I was loading or unloading the driveshaft  it was quite a handful.I would not go out on the road above 20-30 till you've practiced a bit in the parking lot, go easy on the throttle, be careful, etc. You will feel a lurching while turning due to the fact that jeeps have ujoints rather than cv joints, they aren't really intended for FWD operation. This will put extra wear on the transfer case chain so you really don't want to do it very often or for long periods. Philip is right, as well. At least on the XJ (and I think the 97 TJ as well, but not sure) 96 and later vehicles had a sealed tailcone, so you can do this, while on 95 and earlier the rear output seal on the transfer case rides on the slip yoke, not the output shaft, so if you do this your transfer case will happily pump all its fluid onto the ground and then burn up/seize in short order. This is why carrying a 1 liter bottle of coke, a roll of gorilla tape, a utility/pocket knife, and a can of brakleen is good with a YJ  (You clean the transfer case tailcone off, drink the coke, cut the bottom half off the bottle, jam it on the tailcone and tape it in place)
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Sep 15, 2012 14:36
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something like this..
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Sep 15, 2012 14:50
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So, quick update on my new WJ. It appears to be leaking oil from the filter area, don't have the money right now to have it looked at by the dealer and I live in an apartment complex that won't let you do ANYTHING to your car in the parking lot. My girlfriend's grandfather has a garage with a lift, is there anything in particular I should look for in regards to filter fitment, etc? Also, my rear end is going to be replaced and the dealer is only going to charge me labor. Is there any good way of knowing for sure what sort of axles I have front and rear? It's a 2002 WJ Limited with Quadra-Drive. I'm a little put out over the problems so far but dammit..it's SOOO comfortable. The rear seems to bind when turning and makes a droning sound when going down the highway. Transfer case into 4 Low works great, even backed up my girlfriend's moms busted rear end half paved half gravel chunk driveway without losing traction once. The motor makes a ticking sound at start up, my dad says it has an exhaust leak somewhere, it almost sounds like the rocker noise on the 4.0. Or do the 4.7s have them? It's not noticeable at speed though. Now, with the winter months coming up, I'm going to have to get new tires. It's currently riding on some sort of Sumitomo all seasons, they aren't COMEPLETELY bald, but they're in need of replacement. What's the goonmind on tires? I can't completely bust the bank on this sort of thing right now, as I'm also having to replace the roof on my house, so any advice would be killer. I'm leaning toward Bridgestone Blizzaks, but if there is something else I need to look at, let me hear it. What are the largest size I could fit without a large lift or trimming? I'm not sure if it has the Up Country suspension or not, I can't tell by the VIN. I suck. The muffler is ENORMOUS on this thing, and the condition leads me to believe it's stock. Is it too white trash to do something with it or would opening it up be alright? Just like the intake, I'm not planning on doing any deep water forging, but then again an open element air filter just doesn't always sound like a good idea. Any advice here? Last thing, I swear. It has the factory head unit with the Infinity Gold upgrade. I had a really nice Pioneer head unit paired with some Pioneer speakers, generic tweeters screwed into the interior mirror plastic and a Sherwood amp in my old XJ, along with 2 MXT Roadthunder subwoofers in a box, but everything but the amp was stolen. Now, I don't want to lose cargo room this time, but I really do like listening to my stuff with a good sound. The stock system is alright, but just doesn't cut it. I was thinking about upgrading the head unit at some point, but as I said, not until other matters are taken care of first. What are the opinions of the Infinity Basslink? It's the self powered small sub, and I could just run my Sherwood amp to some new speakers front and rear and that'd be enough to me, not looking to wake the world, just something to fill out the Jeep on drives. Anyway, I'm shutting up, advice welcomed as I trust you guys more than most of the Jeep forums where it's always don't upgrade or completely rip everything out and build a trail rig or street machine and that's it.
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Sep 20, 2012 16:03
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gileadexile posted:What's the goonmind on tires? I can't completely bust the bank on this sort of thing right now, as I'm also having to replace the roof on my house, so any advice would be killer. I'm leaning toward Bridgestone Blizzaks, but if there is something else I need to look at, let me hear it. Well there's the Winter-Tire thread that can help you on your way somewhat: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3505592
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Sep 20, 2012 18:57
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gileadexile posted:What are the opinions of the Infinity Basslink? It's the self powered small sub, and I could just run my Sherwood amp to some new speakers front and rear and that'd be enough to me, not looking to wake the world, just something to fill out the Jeep on drives. Sorry I can't answer your audio question but there is a car audio mega-thread here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2233053
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Sep 20, 2012 20:00
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I have been having an odd problem with my JK. For some reason the compressor has twice now stopped working for a brief moment while driving then suddenly starting back up just fine. The wiring looks fine and there is no obvious damage that I can see.
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Sep 20, 2012 22:38
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Thanks for the thread pointers guys, I wasn't sure if my questions would be better asked in the Jeep specific section or not. Wasn't trying to poo poo up the thread with banal questions. Gonna try to get some shots of the oil leak today, maybe some minds with more mechanical experience can tell me what's up and how to remedy it. Hopefully the fiance's uncle will be at the garage today to tell me what to look for.
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Sep 21, 2012 12:49
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Pine Cone Jones posted:I have been having an odd problem with my JK. For some reason the compressor has twice now stopped working for a brief moment while driving then suddenly starting back up just fine. The wiring looks fine and there is no obvious damage that I can see. Check on jeepforum? I haven't had this issue yet. I might have found a pair of rubicon rails though  Should get a look at them tomorrow. $00-150seems to be the going rate locally, and he's asking 125.
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Sep 21, 2012 16:21
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What's the general consensus on early years of the Jeep Liberty? Around the beginning of the year, I'm likely going to be car shopping, and a 2002-2005 Liberty looks to be right in my expected budget. Any major issues I should expect to deal with, or watch out for?
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Sep 21, 2012 17:41
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Vectorwulf posted:What's the general consensus on early years of the Jeep Liberty? Around the beginning of the year, I'm likely going to be car shopping, and a 2002-2005 Liberty looks to be right in my expected budget. Any major issues I should expect to deal with, or watch out for? My mom likes her's and hasn't had any major reliability issues in the 6 or 7 years that she has had it. I am 5'10" and find it to be really uncomfortable to drive. My head is almost banging off the roof and the windshield frame always seems to be in my line of sight. This is opinion, but I think they actually look pretty "mean" when they're lifted and geared up for offroad. Kind of like an Nissan Xterra.
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Sep 21, 2012 20:11
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Good to hear. I'm 6'3" and totally used to not fitting in anything, so I'll probably be able to deal with it. I've yet to find a vehicle where my head isn't against the roof. Am pleasantly surprised they seem to have legitimate off road capability. I figured they were just cushy suburban SUVs that would fall apart against anything more than a moderately sized pothole. Definitely a huge bonus.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:11
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So the brake light in my 2000 XJ came on the other day. I checked the fluid level and it was low so I added some and the light went off. Next day it's on again, I check the fluid again and it's low once more so I add more fluid. I also slid a piece of cardboard underneath to watch for drips. Next day, no drips but low levels again. Then I remember a problem I had on my old XJ and I crawl under the back and see a small puddle by the left rear wheel. In my old XJ I had a slow leak and if memory serves I had the wheel cylinder replaced and it fixed the problem. The cylinder and the brake line are like $10 each, that should fix the problem right? Replace them, fill up on fluid, bleed the brakes and be all good? Will I have to bleed all four corners when I do this?
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Sep 22, 2012 07:26
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Rhyno posted:So the brake light in my 2000 XJ came on the other day. I checked the fluid level and it was low so I added some and the light went off. Next day it's on again, I check the fluid again and it's low once more so I add more fluid. I also slid a piece of cardboard underneath to watch for drips. It doesn't take long to make sure that all four lines are air free; don't take the chance.
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Sep 22, 2012 07:50
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EightBit posted:It doesn't take long to make sure that all four lines are air free; don't take the chance. I have a bleeder so it's not a big deal, I just wanted to be certain.
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Sep 22, 2012 07:53
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Yeah that should do it. Make sure you break the front bleeders free with a 3/8 6 point deep socket to avoid rounding them off, I forget what size the rears are but the same rule applies. Rear drums on an XJ are surprisingly easy to work on when they aren't a congealed mass of rust, I learned recently. I still prefer disc conversions but it was a lot less painful than I expected. If you are careful you may even be able to sneak the old wheel cylinder out and the new wheel cylinder in without fully disassembling the shoes/springs.
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Sep 22, 2012 08:19
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Stole time from the family and picked at the 6. Swapped out the old plugs as they were carboned up. Also moved all the plug wires over one spot since they were off according to a probably unreliable internet image. I checked spark with an old plug from the coil wire and one of the plug wires, and i can see sparking even in the noon sun. The carb is also pumping strong, so i'm still at a bit of a loss. The only other identified issue right now is a crappy napa solenoid that sometimes doesn't close the circuit every time when you turn the key back off. Threw the battery back on the charger and i'm going to go scratch my head for a bit.
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Sep 22, 2012 19:31
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YJ motor swap update: Easiest quick lift for a wrangler? Pull out the drivetrain!   Let's look under the valve cover. - Not too bad.  Buff dat poo poo.  Even got the VC cleaned up a little.  And a new coat of paint.  Here's the new AX15  Extra wiring.  Taking the old shock mounts off the Chryco 8.25   My new NP 231 t-case.  Looks right at home, doesnt it?
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Sep 23, 2012 04:19
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I am going to murder every Chrysler transmission design engineer ever. Why? I was told the transfer case we just spent several hours putting an SYE on was from an XJ when I got it. Well, long story short... It won't go all the way onto the back of the '96 AX15. Stops short about 1/4" to 3/8" from full engagement. So I dug into things a bit further. Novak Conversions has an excellent page on NP231 transfer cases, which I had read before, but ignored the section at the bottom about special-snowflake ZJ transfer cases for rarely configured drivetrains because, well, it didn't apply to me. This case is part number 52097526, tagged as an NP231J, built in 94. No mention of it being for a ZJ or I would have been suspicious... After looking in the parts catalog it turns out this case was used on A500SE (aka 42RE) equipped ZJs from 93-95 only. Why is it special? It's not because it's a long or short input, that's easy-ish to solve with an angle grinder. It's because for some stupid reason, Chryco decided that on the output shaft of the A500SE, and ONLY on the output shaft of the A500SE, they were going to put a non splined pilot tip. No real reason, the shaft handles no side loads (since it's got a bearing on each side of the spline joint), and a pilot tip gives no improvement in strength under torque. It goes into a soft metal bushing that's behind the splines on the input gear on the transfer case. This is a royal pain in my rear end because that means an AX15 input shaft bottoms out inside the NP231 transfer case input shaft well before it seats fully. And there's no goddamn good tech reason for it, and I should have checked this NP231's history more before prepping it to go in. A few options, none of them good... 1. tear down NP231, install different input gear from 91-94.0 XJ transfer case (and possibly bearing retainer), reassemble. This is a pain in the rear end because with the SYE installed it's going to involve a lot of snapring removals, and those fuckers were hard enough to get on the first time. 2. unbolt back of NP231, slide off whole, slide onto different NP231 (I have another, it's just bolted into a parts XJ so I didn't feel like crawling under to remove it... kicking myself now), bolt back together, install. This is a pain in the rear end because I'm pretty sure I'll have to remove a bunch of snaprings that way too. 3. crank engine over while using an angle grinder to "turn" the end of the splines off the AX15 output shaft until it'll fit. I know how much needs to be removed, but I'm really not sure this is a good idea as it has the potential to weaken the output shaft and/or fill the transmission housing with metal filings. Last resort. 4. drink heavily, reconsider options.
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Sep 23, 2012 05:41
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