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Tomorrow morning: cooland reservoir jug replacement, along with 14/44 sprocket installation with RK gold chain (from 15/40). MASSIVE JUMP IN AWESOMENESS!
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Sep 19, 2012 |
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Sep 19, 2012 15:55
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| # ? May 15, 2024 11:19 |
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Not sure what sort of 'adjusting' you can do w/ a carb aside from messing with the fuel screw - you're making a very minor change to a small portion of the fueling equation. In high elevations a stock jetted/stock airbox bike might be a little rich for the conditions. Going to pods may increase airflow a bit and help lean out the mixture. That being said, you should never need to get to the carbs if you've got a clean gas tank and you're actually riding the bike often/storing it properly.
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Sep 19, 2012 15:58
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n8r posted:That being said, you should never need to get to the carbs if you've got a clean gas tank and you're actually riding the bike often/storing it properly. Right? I had a float get stuck once. That was soon after I bought it. But for whatever reason the pods thing is this huge deal that most people have a very loud opinion of.
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Sep 19, 2012 16:03
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n8r posted:Not sure what sort of 'adjusting' you can do w/ a carb aside from messing with the fuel screw - you're making a very minor change to a small portion of the fueling equation. In high elevations a stock jetted/stock airbox bike might be a little rich for the conditions. Going to pods may increase airflow a bit and help lean out the mixture. Yeah, the only adjusting he can do on the fly is the mixture screw for the pilot circuit. If those pods cause problems in the other circuits (because of the added air), he'll need to change main jets and adjust the needle. But perhaps he is just a lucky member of the mile-high-club.
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Sep 19, 2012 16:05
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Droogie posted:Right? I have pods, and they definitely require added jetting love for the carbs. A lot of the anti-pod hate I hear comes from dudes that get pods for looks or anticipated performance boost, and then poo poo up forums with "waaaagghhh, my bike won't run right," etc., often mentioning the change to pods later. So the old guard equate "pods" with "whiny bitches." v0v
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Sep 19, 2012 16:09
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My understanding of pods is that they're great if you want maximum air into the carbs and don't really care about partial throttle performance. That makes sense for old racebikes that spend most of the time WOT.
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Sep 19, 2012 17:34
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Droogie posted:Meanwhile, trouble struck just a couple days ago. The entire day I'd been thinking that the clutch lever 'felt a little off' while riding. Well, just as I was formulating a plan to order some spare cables Just in case, the clutch lever gromit thing snapped off in the middle of traffic. At least it waited for me to get off the freeway. Don't give a poo poo about the air filters but this is some loving artistry right here.
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Sep 19, 2012 18:13
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xd posted:f4i's don't have carbs silly lol yes sorry. I accidentally my typing. The F4i was the fork rebuild. I got to take an '08 Hayabusa apart the other day. Engine out, and apart in just a few hours. It's getting completely rebuilt and getting new cases because the owner snapped a chain and hosed some poo poo up. Tamir Lenk posted:I have pods, and they definitely require added jetting love for the carbs. did someone say "Anti-Pod"? http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=79491.0
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Sep 23, 2012 03:26
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I added what you could call a trunk or top case to the buell. Recipe: 3x 70lb zip ties, 1x milk crate, 1x stock triple tail. Not pretty but it was never going to win a beauty contest.
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Sep 23, 2012 07:32
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14/44 sprocket set installed on the Ninja. Bike flies and shrieks with even more willingness. Streetability++++++. But the speedometer is showing 20 mph over the real speed so that will have to be fixed.
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Sep 23, 2012 16:42
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the walkin dude posted:14/44 sprocket set installed on the Ninja. Bike flies and shrieks with even more willingness. Streetability++++++. But the speedometer is showing 20 mph over the real speed so that will have to be fixed. If its the oem kit I've fitted a speedohealer from http://www.healtech-electronics.com/ to a friends bike, was pretty easy to do. If its aftermarket you just need to reprogram it.
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Sep 23, 2012 18:23
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"What did someone else do to your ride today?"
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Sep 24, 2012 16:31
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:"What did someone else do to your ride today?" I have to admit I laughed. Sorry dude. 
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Sep 24, 2012 16:43
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Ouch. You gonna leave it on there or display it proudly? Speedohealer is definitely in the bike's future. Thanks for the link!
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Sep 24, 2012 16:49
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:I have to admit I laughed. Sorry dude. I laughed, too. I also laughed at the other victims behind my building:  
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Sep 24, 2012 16:54
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Bahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
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Sep 24, 2012 17:04
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:"What did someone else do to your ride today?" I literally struggled with why someone would tag your scooter with SPAT or SPAJ for at least a minute or so. Did he label other parts of the bike? Maybe he has an OCD tagging condition.
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Sep 24, 2012 17:05
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The first recorded instance of a clever graffiti vandal in history. Why did he break convention? Why didn't he just write some esoteric meaningless moniker for himself on everything? His community will reject him now.
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Sep 24, 2012 17:31
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:The first recorded instance of a clever graffiti vandal in history. Why did he break convention? Why didn't he just write some esoteric meaningless moniker for himself on everything? His community will reject him now. No community cannot survive without the FUCKIN DEATHWALRUS!!!
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Sep 24, 2012 17:39
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Brakes were dragging a bit so I cleaned them up following this helpful video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNz00OTRLzM Much improved!  However while I was in there I noticed the rear pads are worn too much and need replacing... I don't have the pads so I've re-installed the worn ones for the time being.  3000 miles seems like premature wear for pads, but since the fronts are fine I'm going to guess the first 2000 miles were using rear brake exclusively. My understanding is the front pads should actually wear roughly 2/1 if the majority of stopping uses both brakes like you're supposed to. This is my first bike with rear disc instead of drum so I don't have any experience regarding wear on the old bikes. I always had the drum dealer serviced as part of a spring checkup because I don't know wtf goes on in those. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Sep 24, 2012 |
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Sep 24, 2012 18:42
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:"What did someone else do to your ride today?" A buddy of mine got PIST keyed into his trunk, at least that may come off with some work  Looking at it again, I think that it may say SeAT.. as its on your seat, who knows.
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Sep 24, 2012 20:43
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Baglbeabs* vs. Deathwalrus
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Sep 24, 2012 20:46
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If it's just generic spray paint, some hot water and dish soap should take it out. I had someone tag my work truck last year. It was on the body though...not sure how well it will work on the seat. Halo_4am posted:Brakes were dragging a bit so I cleaned them up following this helpful video: Good video...maybe he can post a video on winter fairing chain maintenance. Dellikose fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 12:27
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oh thats where the seat is
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Sep 25, 2012 16:28
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Not me per say, but my wife is working on her first bike. We're rebuilding my 1981 Honda CM200T and she's doing a lot of the work. I've got a good bit of work left to do on the hard parts. I've got the engine stripped down awaiting new Piston rings and gaskets, I just pulled the front forks and I've got a new set of rear shocks on order. Her working: Safety FIRST!  After a few hours of careful sanding: 
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Sep 26, 2012 16:40
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Hit it with chemical paint stripper first and save yourself an enormous amount of dust and frustration.
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Sep 26, 2012 18:33
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Sagebrush posted:Hit it with chemical paint stripper first and save yourself an enormous amount of dust and frustration. Nah, it keeps her busy and I have a ventilation system in place. (I build surfboards too)
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Sep 26, 2012 18:49
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Nah, it keeps her busy and I have a ventilation system in place. (I build surfboards too) Wait till she has to strip any of the plastics, by hand and without chemical strippers.
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Sep 26, 2012 19:01
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Tamir Lenk posted:Wait till she has to strip any of the plastics, by hand and without chemical strippers. After I wrecked my R1 we stripped the entire bike by hand, I've actually never used a chemical stripper.
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Sep 26, 2012 19:13
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I dunno, when my sister wanted to help me with the bike and I wanted to keep her busy I had her clean some carb parts (pre-soaked in pine sol) with a toothbrush. That's mediculous work that occupies time, but it's not quite as mind-numbing and nerve-wrecking as sanding sanding sanding sanding sanding sanding sanding. If you've never used chemical paint stripper, buy a can and test it out and wonder why on earth you were wasting all your time with sandpaper.
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Sep 26, 2012 19:16
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Sagebrush posted:I dunno, when my sister wanted to help me with the bike and I wanted to keep her busy I had her clean some carb parts (pre-soaked in pine sol) with a toothbrush. That's mediculous work that occupies time, but it's not quite as mind-numbing and nerve-wrecking as sanding sanding sanding sanding sanding sanding sanding. I'll pick some up, the bottom of that tank would have to be completely hand sanded and even I'm not that cruel. My wife is actually a decent mechanic and maintained her own vehicles years before I came into the picture. The worst part is I tend to get bull-headed and have to do things my way, and after that fails I take her advice and usually end up with my foot in my mouth. For carbs I have a paint bucket of carb cleaner with a tray and I just overnight soak them in it before hosing them off. It works like a charm, but it will nuke any plastic/rubber.
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Sep 26, 2012 19:25
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I'll pick some up, the bottom of that tank would have to be completely hand sanded and even I'm not that cruel. My wife is actually a decent mechanic and maintained her own vehicles years before I came into the picture. The worst part is I tend to get bull-headed and have to do things my way, and after that fails I take her advice and usually end up with my foot in my mouth. Aircraft Stripper will do that for paint. Just don't use it on anything that is not metal, since it will destroy that too. Slop it on the piece with a throwaway brush, wait 15 minutes (or 30, depending on the stripper), then remove the bubbly paint. Sometimes it will just hose off, but you may have to use a plastic scraper, wire brush, etc.
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Sep 26, 2012 19:34
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Tamir Lenk posted:Aircraft Stripper will do that for paint. Just don't use it on anything that is not metal, since it will destroy that too. I'll give this a shot, what should I use for plastic? The bike has 2 little plastic side-covers and I think she wants to keep them and paint to match the tank. She's decided that the paintjob will be champagne pink with gold pin striping. The tank is a nice teardrop shape and I'm going to either have the frame blasted/powder coated or strip it and do a rattlecan hammered finish on it. I'm open to suggestions/idea's on paint as I personally hate to paint and suck at it. We haven't picked out the actual paint for the tank, it will either have to be sent to a paint shop or rattlecanned because I don't have a sprayer.
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Sep 26, 2012 20:42
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Acrylic enamel with a hardened clearcoat is pretty easy to work with and will survive gasoline. I did my Buell with regular clearcoat that is not hardened and gasoline does affect it, it looks appropriately ratty though. Once its prepped (filled, sealed, primed, sanded, and washed), it's pretty much a 1 step process - pile on color until you get the desired coverage, and then pile on as much clear as you have time to do, waiting about 45 minutes between coats and being careful to do light coats so you don't get runs. After you let it cure for a day, wet sand with 800 then 1200, and finish by buffing with a foam pad and some fancy meguiars or whatever polishing compound. One mistake I made was trying to pick a speck of dust off the still-wet paint. I should have just kept painting over it and cut it down with the wet sand process - it would have been less obvious that I messed something up (but I can't actually find the spot now between rock chips). clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Sep 26, 2012 |
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Sep 26, 2012 21:04
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clutchpuck posted:Acrylic enamel with a hardened clearcoat is pretty easy to work with and will survive gasoline. I did my Buell with regular clearcoat that is not hardened and gasoline does affect it, it looks appropriately ratty though. So, do you wet sand in between the final coat of paint and the clearcoat, or do you wait to wet sand until the clearcoat has been applied? This is totally different than how I thought you did it. (Coat of paint a few hours of dry time wetsand and repeat 4-5 times before applying clearcoat. Like I said I suck at painting lol)
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Sep 26, 2012 23:44
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Yeah no sanding between color and clear. Comes out shiny. I hand-sanded - you should use an electric orbital thing if you can, it takes less time and effort. The buffing is where the magic happened.
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Sep 27, 2012 04:53
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For clear coat, do not use the acrylic stuff from Home Depot, etc., especially on the tank. Gasoline will tear right through it. Instead, get a 2-part epoxy clear coat. It's expensive ($25 per can), but absolutely worth it. I like this stuff http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Rapid-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B5PZM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1348755587&sr=8-2&keywords=2k+clear+coat One can will handle the tank and maybe a light coat on the other bits. You can spray this over the standard clear to stretch things a bit. Use only the 2-part on the tank, since it gets the most gas spills. On the side covers and tail, you can use the regular clear and top it off with some 2-part if there's any left after coating the tank with 2-3 layers. Don't go the other way though (i.e., 2-part under regular clear). If nothing else, use the whole can of 2-part on the tank and then go with plain clear on the other parts. I also find that you can wet sand runs and drips out of the color before clear coating.
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Sep 27, 2012 15:25
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Silly me overfilled the oil last week causing the oil to flow into the air box fouling the filter. Changed the spark plugs and filter yesterday after giving everything a good wiping down (is there anything I could do to clean out the area for the spark plugs?). I should have changed the plugs months ago as the bike is running significantly better and starts a lot easier too.
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Sep 27, 2012 19:13
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I found that all my chasing vibration gremlins came down to what I thought it was in the first place but was steered away from by a seemingly reputable forums poster. If any of you have a Triumph 675 engine and have the cam chain clack even if only when its cold out and you just started the engine be sure to replace the CCT. It killed all mid range vibration I had and any clacking is gone. Finally I know what the hell people are talking about when they say how insanely smooth the triple's engine is.
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Sep 28, 2012 15:44
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| # ? May 15, 2024 11:19 |
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What did What KTMs do best:  Ready to Race
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Sep 28, 2012 16:52
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