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Well, the wife's '96 Outback 2.5 is burning through about a quart of oil per 1.000 miles. It's not going into the coolant, and we don't have any oil smoke. I guess we will have to just keep a jug and a funnel in the trunk. I switched it to high mileage this last oil change (first one I did since buying it), hopefully the seals will swell a little. I also went to 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 in hopes that the extra viscosity will help a little. At least the car was cheap, and gets almost double the gas mileage of our old Bronco so I am willing to be more vigilant as a trade-off.
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Sep 24, 2012 01:23
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Well, the wife's '96 Outback 2.5 is burning through about a quart of oil per 1.000 miles. It's not going into the coolant, and we don't have any oil smoke. I guess we will have to just keep a jug and a funnel in the trunk. I switched it to high mileage this last oil change (first one I did since buying it), hopefully the seals will swell a little. I also went to 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 in hopes that the extra viscosity will help a little. At least the car was cheap, and gets almost double the gas mileage of our old Bronco so I am willing to be more vigilant as a trade-off. Head Gaskets.
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Sep 24, 2012 01:46
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daslog posted:Head Gaskets. Are you sure? I am burning a quart of oil every 1,000 KM (600ish miles) and my headgaskets were done at the dealer 10,000 KM ago by the PO. Not going into coolant either. I'm thinking oil rings.
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Sep 24, 2012 03:47
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MrZig posted:Are you sure? I am burning a quart of oil every 1,000 KM (600ish miles) and my headgaskets were done at the dealer 10,000 KM ago by the PO. Not going into coolant either. Am I sure? No, but unless you have massive pools of oil underneath your car you are going to have to take the head off to fix it. 
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Sep 24, 2012 04:04
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daslog posted:Am I sure? No, but unless you have massive pools of oil underneath your car you are going to have to take the head off to fix it. True, but it's best to find the root cause before slapping hundreds worth of dollars at head gaskets + labour, when it could be something differnet. A compression test and leakdown test should be performed first. Have you noticed any burning oil smells, or leakage/seepage anywhere, Mr. Brasil?
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Sep 24, 2012 05:18
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daslog posted:Head Gaskets. Yeah these were done at 90k miles, it has 115k now. I haven't noticed any leaking besides the valve cover gaskets, and no burning oil smells. My first thought was rings, but there has been no noticeable smoke from the tailpipe either so it must be a small amount going by.
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Sep 24, 2012 13:41
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hoho`win posted:I am doing a track day in October at Road America in Elkhart Lake, WI. I have a stock 2012 WRX STI and I am would like a recommendation on some upgraded brake pads and brake fluid. As it turns out they no longer make 6's in this size. Any recommendations?
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Sep 25, 2012 00:20
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hoho`win posted:As it turns out they no longer make 6's in this size. Any recommendations? PM/email Jamal and he'll set you up with what you need at a great price.
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Sep 25, 2012 00:28
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Does anyone have a low mileage VF52 for sale? I'm looking to get some more power for my '08 Legacy. I've been looking for a larger TMIC as well, eyeing the process west and the fast motor sports version which is a few hundred cheaper. Any thoughts on these?
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Sep 25, 2012 01:39
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hoho`win posted:As it turns out they no longer make 6's in this size. Any recommendations? I am a huge fan of carbotechs. I use XP10s on my LGT, which is about the same weight. Great bite and they kind of work in the cold (50F+) so you can change pads before you go to the track. ATE blue is a decent enough fluid that is widely available. When I lived in Minnesota, I used a Pentosyn brake fluid with similar numbers that worked great and cost less. However, I can't find it easily out here, so I use ATE blue (or the gold one that is exactly the same).
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Sep 25, 2012 01:41
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jamal posted:Well first pull that screen right off the line to the turbo/passenger side avcs and take a look, but given that the turbo is shot and avcs isn't working I feel like there could be a greater problem with lubrication. They don't always just break clean off and cause catastrophic bearing failure, it could just have a hairline crack that is pulling in air and limiting peak oil pressure. The turbo and avcs are the last things to get oil. It goes main bearings-> rod bearings-> cams-> then the turbo/avcs. FAT pulled my turbo, put on a nice pretty new td06-20g with an 8 cm hotside (Synergy turbo - only $825 on clearance ($1200 new), so even if it's not the greatest, it's almost half the price of a new blouch, comes with a 15k mile warranty - I haven't read any horror stories about them). Oil pressure looks perfect now that they can run the motor, but we'll see what happens under load. My worry is that the oil pickup crack is very low on the pickup, and air doesn't get pulled in until the oil level drops a bit (1/2 or 1 quart) - is that a reasonable concern? The sketchy part of my story with the dealer is this though - according to FAT, my old VF48's banjo bolt screen wasn't just clean. It was cleaned or else replaced, likely by someone at the dealer, without my knowledge. Since AVCS was functional again as soon as I picked the car up from the dealer to take it to FAT, I imagine they cleaned the other screens as well. They didn't inform me, or charge me parts or labor for this, which strikes me as really, really sketchy, and I'm wondering what the hell is going on - if they're trying to avoid a warranty claim, or what. It makes no sense to me that they would go to that trouble though, since they make quite a bit of money off warranty claims in Arizona... BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 18:07
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BobTheFerret posted:My worry is that the oil pickup crack is very low on the pickup, and air doesn't get pulled in until the oil level drops a bit (1/2 or 1 quart) - is that a reasonable concern? I don't believe so, from what I've read and seen the crack appears at the top of the pickup where the tube is welded to the flange that bolts to the block.
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Sep 25, 2012 18:43
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6mt swapped in. Good lord that was expensive. Seriously made me consider selling this car and buying a new STi. Anyway, there's a very very light whine when under light load at highway speeds (say ~70mph in 6th). After reading a ton of NASIOC threads about it, this seems to be just a regular part of the tranny. Anyone else experience this so my fears of a dying tranny can be soothed?
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Sep 26, 2012 04:09
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I used to notice some whine from the trans at weird harmonic rpms and specific gears (my most noticeable was always 4th gear, around 1900 rpm). The 6 speed is insanely noisy though - I remember when I first got the car I was terrified I had a bad trans when I finally rolled down my window and listened to the noises it made engine braking, particularly in second gear. Imo, if there's any part of this car you can rely on, it's the transmission. Seeing all the stuff people do to it without damaging it (i.e. hundreds of launches on tarmac) always amazes me.
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Sep 26, 2012 04:19
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The rally guys around here go through 6 speeds like swiss cheese, but I've only heard of 1 ever breaking on a street car. They definitely have a whine in 5th/6th if you have hardened trans mounts.
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Sep 26, 2012 11:13
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BobTheFerret posted:I used to notice some whine from the trans at weird harmonic rpms and specific gears (my most noticeable was always 4th gear, around 1900 rpm). The 6 speed is insanely noisy though - I remember when I first got the car I was terrified I had a bad trans when I finally rolled down my window and listened to the noises it made engine braking, particularly in second gear. I had the same reaction when I was pulling into the parking garage at work ad heard that insanely loud whine during engine braking. I had to roll the window down and repeat the situation to hear the noise. Definitely took me by surprise!
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Sep 26, 2012 13:12
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My six speed makes noise too. I drove another car with triple the miles mine had and it was even louder.
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Sep 26, 2012 22:25
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Usually they break near the top where the tube is brazed onto the flange. A broken pickup doesn't mean the whole thing is just sitting in the pan completely separate from the block though. There is a bracket holding it in place and it often just has a hairline crack. There is a whole collection of pictures in a thread killer B has going on nasioc here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1966317 The service procedure to check pressure is to just plug a mechanical gauge right into the top port where the stock switch goes. Did they do that at FAT for you? blargle posted:The rally guys around here go through 6 speeds like swiss cheese, but I've only heard of 1 ever breaking on a street car. They definitely have a whine in 5th/6th if you have hardened trans mounts. Really? That kind of surprises me given how reliable they are for high powered drag and track cars. GST broke their center diff recently but they have a ton of grip and a ton of power. I suppose that's probably a heat issue. When everything gets really hot the tolerances change (and the materials themselves weaken slightly) and the gear oil thins out so stuff is more likely to break. Adding on a cooler would probably help those guys a lot. Anyway a little extra noise isn't anything to worry about. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Sep 26, 2012 |
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Sep 26, 2012 22:44
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blargle posted:The rally guys around here go through 6 speeds like swiss cheese, but I've only heard of 1 ever breaking on a street car. They definitely have a whine in 5th/6th if you have hardened trans mounts. What on earth are they doing wrong? Rally guys here love them because they dont break. quote:I suppose that's probably a heat issue Unlikely I think. It's distinctly hotter here and we dont have these issues. I wonder if they are using crap oil?
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Sep 26, 2012 23:47
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jamal posted:Those are a big bunch of random codes to be getting together. Usually when I see a misfire it is from a bad injector or a cracked ringland. But getting a bunch at the same time is usually a ground or wiring issue. Getting the rear wheel sensor codes makes me thing you should look into that. Not with the sensors but with the wiring that goes there. I'll poke around the FSM and see if I can figure out the best place to start. (((k))) posted:The common routine here is swap the coil packs on that side and see if the misfire follows. Next step would be injectors on that side. Cylinder 3 is passenger side closest to the cabin. Being right near the turbo I see so many more issues in the area from the heat wearing stuff out faster; CV boot, valve cover gaskets, etc. Hopefully that narrows it down, if not, leak down test.
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Sep 27, 2012 02:02
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jamal posted:Usually they break near the top where the tube is brazed onto the flange. A broken pickup doesn't mean the whole thing is just sitting in the pan completely separate from the block though. There is a bracket holding it in place and it often just has a hairline crack. There is a whole collection of pictures in a thread killer B has going on nasioc here: Startup idle pressure is 80+psi. We'll see how it does on the dyno. I'm getting an oil pressure gauge for it just in case, so I can keep an eye on it in the future. On the plus side, I would recommend FAT to just about anyone. They swapped out my old VF for the 20g for a total cost (parts and labor) of less than 1100 - way way less expensive than I was expecting this to be. Edit to add, since it is important I suppose: FAT did a pre-dyno compression test and found that #2 and #4 are at 120 each (good at our elevation), while #3 is at 115 and #1 is at 100 psi. I have no clue why cylinder wear would be so advanced on the side that actually gets proper fueling, particularly since cylinder 1 registers the least knock of all the cylinders when I monitor it. And sigh...just as it's about to get retuned, we find that the head gasket on one side has failed. Might mean that the bad compression test was due to a failing HG though, on the plus side! BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Sep 30, 2012 |
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Sep 27, 2012 02:58
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Anybody with an STi have a good picture I can use for a project? I need, preferably, a very high res picture of an STi in its natural environment (rally or dirt road, nature-ish) that I can use for a design project. Doesn't matter at all what year it is. I just need something that I have permission from the copyright owner to use, and I'll be damned if I'm paying $25 for a stock photo for a school project.
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Sep 27, 2012 12:09
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I finally joined the Subaru Crew, I got a 99 Outback Sport (green with 5 speed) from the local Pick N Pull junkyard for $1400 ($1526 with tax) with all the parts to fix the body damage (found the same color OBS!), as well as a 1/3 discount coupon. Not bad for a family car, my 93 Mercury Capri has only the slightest hint of rear seats, whereas the OBS should be fine.
DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Sep 27, 2012 |
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Sep 27, 2012 16:39
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Shouldn't my car go into closed loop pretty much around the time the engine gets to temperature? It stays in open for at least 20-30 minutes (longest Ive driven it so far with the new engine). I'm getting a 0130 for the 02 sensor that I think is for an intake gasket that I borked putting the engine in. Would the code keep it from going into closed? I have new gaskets and an 02 ready to go in probably today but I need to get it back through emissions next month.
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Sep 27, 2012 16:45
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My car got dinged in a parking lot and has to sit at a shady body shop for a couple days. The guy at the shop took a keen interest in my car and I'm nervous that he's going take it for a joy ride. Has anyone run Cobb's "valet mode" map on a stage 2 car with a downpipe? I called Cobb directly and the customer service guy said it was probably fine, but he wasn't too reassuring. The map limits you to 3200 rpm and almost no boost.
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Sep 27, 2012 19:37
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blargle posted:My car got dinged in a parking lot and has to sit at a shady body shop for a couple days. The guy at the shop took a keen interest in my car and I'm nervous that he's going take it for a joy ride. Has anyone run Cobb's "valet mode" map on a stage 2 car with a downpipe? I called Cobb directly and the customer service guy said it was probably fine, but he wasn't too reassuring. The map limits you to 3200 rpm and almost no boost. What's your worry about running that map? The valet mode should be adjusted for the parts on the car, so long as they're cobb parts and you've matched them up with a cobb map. If you're tuned by someone else, I can't think of a reason it still wouldn't work just fine, so long as you haven't made serious changes to the intake (different MAF sensor) or fueling system (different injectors, or different fuel). The biggest danger to our cars is running lean under high load - since you can't put any serious load on the car without the turbo feeding it gobs of air, you shouldn't have to worry even if your valet map is out of tune. You can just try running it in valet mode yourself too...that would be the easiest way to see if it's going to work or not.
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Sep 27, 2012 19:58
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blargle posted:My car got dinged in a parking lot and has to sit at a shady body shop for a couple days. The guy at the shop took a keen interest in my car and I'm nervous that he's going take it for a joy ride. Has anyone run Cobb's "valet mode" map on a stage 2 car with a downpipe? I called Cobb directly and the customer service guy said it was probably fine, but he wasn't too reassuring. The map limits you to 3200 rpm and almost no boost. Since it's a body shop, they would have no need to test drive the vehicle. Note the mileage and make sure the manager knows that you're concerned one of his employees will joy ride the vehicle. Be sure to remind him that you have noted the current mileage and that mechanical repairs on this vehicle are not cheap. Alternatively, keep the keys and make them push the car around if they need to move it.
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Sep 27, 2012 20:05
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DJ Commie posted:I finally joined the Subaru Crew, I got a 99 Outback Sport (green with 5 speed) from the local Pick N Pull junkyard for $1400 ($1526 with tax) with all the parts to fix the body damage (found the same color OBS!), as well as a 1/3 discount coupon. Not bad for a family car, my 93 Mercury Capri has only the slightest hint of rear seats, whereas the OBS should be fine. Welcome to the fold! How many miles does it have?
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Sep 27, 2012 20:14
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I'll be doing all that, but I'd rather stop them from messing with it in the first place. Amandyke posted:Since it's a body shop, they would have no need to test drive the vehicle. Note the mileage and make sure the manager knows that you're concerned one of his employees will joy ride the vehicle. Be sure to remind him that you have noted the current mileage and that mechanical repairs on this vehicle are not cheap.
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Sep 27, 2012 20:14
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c355n4 posted:Welcome to the fold! How many miles does it have? 187K or so, its definitely a project, but at least its California and I have a matching model to buy parts from.
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Sep 28, 2012 03:17
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The Jabberwocky posted:Anybody with an STi have a good picture I can use for a project? I need, preferably, a very high res picture of an STi in its natural environment (rally or dirt road, nature-ish) that I can use for a design project. Doesn't matter at all what year it is. I just need something that I have permission from the copyright owner to use, and I'll be damned if I'm paying $25 for a stock photo for a school project. http://www.flickr.com/search/?l=deriv&mt=all&adv=1&w=all&q=sti+forest&m=text Flickr advanced photo search "sti forest" Showing Creative Commons-licensed content for adaptation, modification or building upon
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Sep 28, 2012 13:08
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Safety Dance posted:http://www.flickr.com/search/?l=deriv&mt=all&adv=1&w=all&q=sti+forest&m=text Unfortunately, it's a commercial project, and although I won't actually be sending 500 flyers out, we have to license our material under that assumption. Of course that falls down quickly, since if I actually had a client willing to send 500 full color postcards out to people he would probably pay the stupid $20 for a good picture. I just did something in Illustrator instead. Thanks, though. I need to use their CC more anyways.
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Sep 28, 2012 13:44
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I have a friend with a 2000 or 2002 or so Forrester NA. She says she is getting misfire codes for cyl 1 and 2. Claims head gasket was replaced maybe 30k miles ago (if thats relevant to these issues). Didn't mention high temps though. Does anyone have any ideas for where to start? I have a feeling I will be helping fix it. Thanks.
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Sep 30, 2012 01:41
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I have a friend with a 2000 or 2002 or so Forrester NA. She says she is getting misfire codes for cyl 1 and 2. Claims head gasket was replaced maybe 30k miles ago (if thats relevant to these issues). Didn't mention high temps though. I just glanced at the shop manual. It has you check the fuel injector wiring, and then some steps, and then Spark Plugs, Fuel Injectors, Ignition Coil, and Compression Ratio.
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Sep 30, 2012 01:53
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I have a friend with a 2000 or 2002 or so Forrester NA. She says she is getting misfire codes for cyl 1 and 2. Claims head gasket was replaced maybe 30k miles ago (if thats relevant to these issues). Didn't mention high temps though. Cylinders 1 and 2 are on opposite sides of the engine (unless Subaru changed the cylinder numbering at some point), so cylinder 1 should be on the driver's side furthest from the cabin, and #2 would be on the passenger's side (again furthest from the cabin). Sounds like the issue might not be related to the head gasket replacement, and there are a lot of other things that could be causing a misfire, especially on an older motor like that (how many miles total on it? How well taken care of...?). I would check the wires connecting to the coils on those cylinders for damage first - you can also move a coil (if it's coil on plug) and see if the misfire moves to see if the coil is the problem. If the plugs are really old and weren't replaced with the motor out, that could be it. It may not be a terrible idea to run some injector cleaner through, in case there's some fueling issue, but maybe someone else has a better idea or some issue specific to the NA motor.
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Sep 30, 2012 02:43
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I'd look at ignition first - cheap and easy to replace - and then start thinking about MAF and downstream sensors. Usually low RPM misfire is bad fuelling, but ignition is so cheap to replace that you should just do it to be sure.
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Sep 30, 2012 03:10
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Misfit on1 and 2 is probably the coil pack. They sit on top of the intake and cylinders 1 and 2 share a coil (so there's a waste spark on each side when the side on the compression stroke is igniting). Common failure on those motors.
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Sep 30, 2012 03:43
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So it may be that our head gaskets aren't leaking after all and it was just an illusion... because our valve cover gaskets sure are. All four spark plugs are oily, and it's visibly leaking oil along the bottom. Good thing we still have another warm week or so here because our garage isn't heated.
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Sep 30, 2012 04:01
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Thanks guys. I'll try swapping coil packs first. The car has been reasonable well maintained but not extremely well. Everything being said about ignition system being a good place to start sounds good; the car could use a refresher. Problem is, this chick has not even got  until she starts getting paid from her new job (end of nov!).Is there anything that can be done to mitigate the problem for a while if she needs parts she can't affoard?
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Sep 30, 2012 16:56
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I needed some pictures for a project, so I piled the dogs into the wife's outback and got it good and muddy today. I thought these were pretty drat Subaru pictures:  
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Oct 1, 2012 01:43
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