|
movax posted:Recently, turning on my rear defroster immediately takes out FM reception entirely and adds some noise to AM. Is there some kind of shield/insulation wiring-wise that degrades over time? I mostly listen to my iPhone, but I'm 99% sure this did not use to happen when I bought the car. Once you find a broken line it's pretty easy to repair it. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Sep 28, 2012 |
#
?
Sep 28, 2012 05:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Check all of your defroster lines, there was a recall on some Subarus because a crack in one of the lines caused exactly this problem. It's really easy to break one. You can usually test with a multimeter. Crack in the insulation, I take it? What's the easiest way for me to get to them, peel back interior covering/carpeting? e: It's an 2006 A4, that is probably helpful to know.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2012 05:20
|
|
|
It's literally the grids painted on the window that were cracked in the TSB; it shouldn't be too much work for you to do a quick visual inspection and run a multimeter over it. Do all the lines seem to do equal work defrosting? e: quote:Customer complaint of radio static when the radio and rear window defogger are on at the same time, there is the possibility of a break in one or more of the defogger grids. When the grid is broken, a high resistance field is created at the break point which can create static on some radio stations. The level of resistance is usually high enough to create a field of interference which projects out from the glass. The break can be detected visually or by using a portable radio. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Sep 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2012 05:22
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:It's literally the grids painted on the window that were cracked in the TSB; it shouldn't be too much work for you to do a quick visual inspection and run a multimeter over it. Do all the lines seem to do equal work defrosting? Oh poo poo, really? Thanks for that paste, I will check that out tomorrow morning!
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2012 05:59
|
|
|
I'm a newbie tech working at a VW dealership (hourly so I dont get screwed) and I hope to contribute/learn from this thread. Had a lot of fun with a cam follower job the other day on the FSI. Only one in the shop to do it successfully my first time without any catastrophic failure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2012 06:18
|
|
|
interwhat posted:I'm a newbie tech working at a VW dealership (hourly so I dont get screwed) and I hope to contribute/learn from this thread. Had a lot of fun with a cam follower job the other day on the FSI. Only one in the shop to do it successfully my first time without any catastrophic failure. Keep us up to date on how many TDIs come in with failed high pressure fuel pumps 
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2012 14:43
|
|
|
interwhat posted:I'm a newbie tech working at a VW dealership (hourly so I dont get screwed) and I hope to contribute/learn from this thread. Had a lot of fun with a cam follower job the other day on the FSI. Only one in the shop to do it successfully my first time without any catastrophic failure. Do you mean the follower off of the HPFP that rides on the cam? Did you also do the camshaft chain and adjuster?
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2012 02:37
|
|
|
My mom just bought a new A3 2.0T a couple weeks ago. Yesterday, I saw this under the car on the right side, below the front passenger door. I thought maybe something got kicked up by the front wheel on the highway and punctured that plastic panel, so I removed it. The whole thing looks like this:  There's no way something that shape was going fast enough to go through the panel like, is there? Is it just a hook used to secure the car during shipping? Also, this is my first experience with DSG. What does the transmission do when the car is in Park? Is it just in neutral with the brakes applied?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2012 02:55
|
|
|
hedge posted:Also, this is my first experience with DSG. What does the transmission do when the car is in Park? Is it just in neutral with the brakes applied? It has a locking ring like a slushbox.  Here's a really good rundown on the DSG: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/DSG-faq-VW-Audi.htm I always put the parking brake on before putting it in park as to not stress the parking pawl. I think that's good practice. My Turbo Diesel posted:While a DSG is very similar in operation to a slushbox, there are a few differences. First, always set the parking brake before you put it in park (you should always do this on any VW/Audi since it sets the rear brake caliper self ratcheting mechanism and avoids stressing the parking gear pawl/shifter). Always press on the brakes before starting the engine (you should already be doing this with any car). The car could slightly lurch forward if you start the engine without the parking brake or brakes on. This condition is most likely under cold temperatures due to the viscosity of the DSG fluid transferring some motion from the engine to the transmission. Unlike a slushbox, if you take your foot off the brake, the car will not inch forward. When coasting with your foot off the gas you'll experience engine braking, just like a manual transmission. However, the transmission will downshift as you slow down. With a manual transmission, I prefer to do a combination of downshifting and neutral depending on the conditions. When stopped on a hill, the car may roll back a little if you don't apply throttle, just like a manual transmission. Most later DSG have a hill holder which holds the brakes until you step on the gas. HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Sep 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2012 03:14
|
|
|
I adjusted the emergency brake on my 98 Jetta TDI today (rear drums). I tightened them down all the way, but the cables really need to be replaced. What's involved in that job? Do I need to take the drums apart or do the cables just attach to the back somehow? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2012 04:06
|
|
|
hedge posted:Also, this is my first experience with DSG. What does the transmission do when the car is in Park? Is it just in neutral with the brakes applied? With mine, after putting it in park, the car will roll a fairly noticeable amount before the parking pawl 'catches'. Only a few inches but far more than any other auto I've driven. Keep this in mind if you don't pull the parking brake and park in tight confines, or have passengers that like to jump out before you're quite done parking. On the A3 the parking brake cannot be pulled without it hitting the armrest if it is all the way down, which is stupid. If I take my foot off the brake when stopped, the car sits still for a second or two then the DSG clutch engages and will pull the car forward at idle. This is at odds with what timb's quote describes. I probably have an 'early' DSG (2007) and it is distinctly unhappy when stopped uphill, if the brakes are released without giving it gas. As if I was lugging it, until it figures out wtf and dials in more gas. I don't know if that's the hill hold function the 'later' ones may have, or the lack thereof. I assume this is all normal function. Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Sep 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2012 05:05
|
|
|
My 2007 exhibits the same things as yours, so I'd say it's normal. That quote is in regards to the newer 7-speed DSGs some Audi uses I think.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2012 05:15
|
|
|
Opensourcepirate posted:I adjusted the emergency brake on my 98 Jetta TDI today (rear drums). I tightened them down all the way, but the cables really need to be replaced. What's involved in that job? Do I need to take the drums apart or do the cables just attach to the back somehow? If its anything like my 95, yes you need to pull the drums to replace the cable. Be glad yours is just loose, I managed to have both of mine break, of course at different times. This brings me to my next point. Spend the extra time and do both sides.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2012 05:39
|
|
|
I think one of them might be broken, but it might just be really stretched. Maybe if I add a bunch of washers to it I can get it tight.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2012 06:07
|
|
|
Well, neither of them is broken. It's just that the right one is stretched like an inch, and the rubber surrounding the cable is broken at one point. I was able to get the brake working pretty well by adding a bunch of washers to that one... or so I thought. Turns out that that brake wasn't actually disengaging after I put the handle down, which had nothing to do with the washer system up front, although it may have a lot to do with the fact that that brake hasn't been engaging at all for a long time and the exposed cable letting crud in. I jacked that wheel up to get a better sense of what was going on, and I could always eventually get it unstuck through some system of pulling the cable back and forth near the brake and maybe kicking it, but getting it unstuck a couple of times didn't seem to make it want to stop sticking. I eventually went back to having that cable be so loose that it doesn't engage at all. I checked the MA Inspection guidelines and I should be able to pass safety - the parking brake just has to stop me from 20 MPH in less than 80 feet. Also it's supposed to hold the car back if revved to 1200 RPM in 1st gear, but that doesn't make sense for a manual transmission.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2012 05:34
|
|
|
So my fiances wonderful 99 New Beetle has yet ANOTHER problem. The defrost is like an ant farting at the windshield, it seems like there is not enough air flowing out on the defrost setting. The air is hot as hell, and the AC compressor works fine but when you put the HVAC controls onto defrost it doesn't defrost. Ive read that it could be the blend door, but on the NB's its a huge job to replace because literally the entire dash needs pulled. Should I take it to the dealer? I highly doubt any normal shops around here would be to happy about tackling something like this. I hate that stupid car, love mine though!
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2012 15:24
|
|
|
BrownieVK posted:Ive read that it could be the blend door, but on the NB's its a huge job to replace because literally the entire dash needs pulled. Should I take it to the dealer? I highly doubt any normal shops around here would be to happy about tackling something like this. I hate that stupid car, love mine though! It probably is the blend door. It may just be the solenoid, or you may need to tear the whole dash out. It's going to be ugly and expensive, regardless of where you take it, but I'd highly suggest finding a local independent shop that is familiar with new beetles. You will get raped by the dealer, as they will likely want to replace the entire unit. That's just what they usually do. Also, you change the water pump yet?
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2012 17:16
|
|
|
Motronic posted:It probably is the blend door. It may just be the solenoid, or you may need to tear the whole dash out. Awesome, that's what I figured, dealership quoted me around $600 or more!  Ill have to check some shops out around here, I'm sure as hell not doing it with everything Ive seen that has to come out, and I'm tired of working on it. Just did the timing belt, water pump, timing belt tensioner, ignition coil, a battery, 2 alternators (new one sounds horrible too), every single braking component, and now it needs, struts, and the front strut mounts I think? Oh and it is getting fussy with 2nd and 4th not going into gear, I'm thinking new gear oil will fix that. This is all within 2 years of her getting it back from parents garage where it sat forever. It is literally the worst car on the planet, its slow as poo poo too, but she loves it and wont get something else. She said when we buy an old muscle car with a manual she will sell it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2012 14:17
|
|
|
I wanted to remove the front plate holder on my r32, but drilling threw the rivets and ordering hole covers would cost way more than just putting a plate on the front. The problem is I can't find any of the oem r32 plates on ebay. I had assumed they would be easy to find. Is there any site that sells them?
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2012 21:06
|
|
|
Enjoy a Berry posted:I wanted to remove the front plate holder on my r32, but drilling threw the rivets and ordering hole covers would cost way more than just putting a plate on the front. Try a local junker or check Google for the nearest pick-n-pull? It's cheaper/easier for me to buy used parts from a salvage yard most of the time than trying to track them down.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2012 06:27
|
|
|
hedge posted:My mom just bought a new A3 2.0T a couple weeks ago. Yesterday, I saw this under the car on the right side, below the front passenger door. Yep, that's basically what it is. Audis are shipped with a cloth-ish material wrapped around the whole car which is removed during the pre-delivery inspection. These wraps are secured to the car in like 20 points with clips/hooks like that. I know this because I've had to unwrap a lot of them. Whoever unwrapped your moms car at the dealership didn't remove it and it ended up puncturing that panel somehow. I'd make them replace that panel thats some bullshit. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Oct 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2012 15:30
|
|
|
How much have you guys paid for a 40k service on a 2010 6-speed GTI?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2012 21:41
|
|
|
I've got a 2006 Jetta - the wheel liner in the passenger side rear wheel well is pretty much detached from the car (this is what the mudflap is attached to). Any ideas how to attach it to the car? This is what it looks like. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Rear-Fender-Liner-Splash-Guard-LH-05-09-VW-Jetta-MK5-Genuine-OE-/00/s/MTAxM1gxNTAw/$(KGrHqJ,!lIE-lL02juvBPvin3gz,w~~60_58.JPG It seems the front is attached with torx screws. It seems like if I were to use screws in the holes, they'd go into the fender... Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Oct 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 16:32
|
|
|
Residency Evil posted:How much have you guys paid for a 40k service on a 2010 6-speed GTI? Nothing, I bought the manual  Expect to pay around 400 bucks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 16:35
|
|
|
im a dumb dumb
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 16:40
|
|
|
Is the 40k the DSG service or just an oil change? The 35k is the 'major' service for my year A3 including the DSG and it was a little under 500 at the dealer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 19:30
|
|
|
40k is DSG service. Plus standard oil change. On the TDI it is also the fuel filter change, and I assume cabin filter and every other filter on the car.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 19:58
|
|
|
I recently bought a used 2006 Jetta TDI, 6 speed, 120k miles. The first week it was perfect, but now when I let off the gas to coast before braking, the car seems to slow down really quickly - as if I'm lightly braking, but not touching any pedals. If I go back on a gas, even gently, it lurches pretty noticeably. I tried googling a bit and couldn't find anything relevant. VIN is 3VWCT71K76M848411 if it helps. Using for driving to/from work (highway), and during work (pizza delivery), so I'm using it quite a bit all day. This is my first car, and I have zero experience with Volkswagons prior. Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 20:45
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:40k is DSG service. Cabin filter is at 20k on a 20k interval. Doesn't hurt to replace it before then, especially if you live in an area with a lot of allergens, smog, etc.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 21:51
|
|
|
By the way, doing DSG service by hand is pretty easy. You don't even need the fancy fill tool or VAG-COM. Just measure how much you drain out and put that amount back in. You can even fill it through the DSG filter hole in the top, instead of pumping it in the bottom. It took me about an hour and costs $100 for the fluid and filter. Dealership wanted $400+Parts. Edit: Wal-Mart and Advance Auto both carry Hoppy-Flo funnels which work great for this:  The tip fits perfectly into the filter port: 
HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Oct 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 22:27
|
|
|
Coronet XX posted:I recently bought a used 2006 Jetta TDI, 6 speed, 120k miles. The first week it was perfect, but now when I let off the gas to coast before braking, the car seems to slow down really quickly - as if I'm lightly braking, but not touching any pedals. If I go back on a gas, even gently, it lurches pretty noticeably. I tried googling a bit and couldn't find anything relevant. VIN is 3VWCT71K76M848411 if it helps. Using for driving to/from work (highway), and during work (pizza delivery), so I'm using it quite a bit all day. This is my first car, and I have zero experience with Volkswagons prior. Get over to the tdiclub and look around. At 120k, that engine is just barely broke in https://www.tdiclub.com
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 22:54
|
|
|
Anybody here familiar with the 7A? I've tried asking things on some of the 'old audi' forums, but the sites catering to 5cyl havers are either too slow and I get no responses, or they are full of crazy fucks making 700HP monsters who don't have time for my boring non turbo thing. Car: 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with billions of miles The problem I'm having is mainly when I first start the car when cold. It sounds a bit off, and runs crappy. On especially cold mornings it will die if I don't give it a bit of gas. This crappy running and trying to die phase lasts until the first time I exceed about 2500 RPM, which I usually do when pulling away before shifting into second, mainly just to get the engine to be happier. After I exceed 2500 ish, the problem goes away almost entirely. I've also noticed that occasionally when coming to a stop after a long time of being in gear at constant-ish speed , upon taking the car out of gear, the RPMs drop a bit below where it should idle (idles a hair below 1000, the drop is usually to 650ish), the car shakes a small bit, then it saves itself and will happily idle regularly until I spend considerable time at a constant RPM again. Things I have done: Ran a can of seafoam through the gas tank Checked plugs and plug wires. Everything looks kosher Taken apart/cleaned the intake system up to the manifold. Was kinda nasty bit now its awesome Blasted all the filth out of the ISV Cleaned the MAF Changed the air filter Disconnected every electrical connecter I could reach and blasted them with electrical connector cleaner What should I look for next?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2012 03:45
|
|
|
I tried to help out a girl whose Mk4 Jetta 1.8T broke down in a parking lot today. I noticed her car was stopped so I figured she was just waiting for someone. I walked past her to my car, and I heard a clanging noise like something fell out from under her car. I turned around to go tell her that things are falling off of her car and to see if she needed a hand. I tried to give her a bit of a push but the car wouldn't roll. The thing that fell off was the end cap for her driver's side CV joint. I had to look up how these things are installed and I have no clue how it happened--it's bolted up between the transmission and the CV joint. It was a little bent up, but the holes where the bolts thread into the transmission weren't torn out or anything. I have no clue that happened--how does the cap just fall off of one of those things? The only thing that comes to mind is if the 6 bolts sheared off, but that doesn't make sense since we were in a parking lot and it's not like a 1.8T can shear off those bolts anyway. I couldn't get under to take a loot to see if bolts were missing or what. Anyone seen that before?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2012 21:45
|
|
|
I've got a ProClip dash mount setup with a 30-pin passthrough for the iPhone 4/4S that'll fit the MK5 series GTI/Jetta/TDI. If anyone is interested I'll put it on SA-Mart, otherwise I'm going to eBay it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 03:58
|
|
|
Any reason it wouldn't fit the Mk6?
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 04:06
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Any reason it wouldn't fit the Mk6? Looks like it might. Here's the fit on the MK5:  It just clamps onto the trim.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 04:13
|
|
|
Went ahead and put it up: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3511095
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 05:35
|
|
|
2002 VW Golf 2.0 AVH 134k I am having several smaller issues with my vw that I believe are indicative of a larger problem. The car has been regularly serviced including recent plugs and wires and a can of seafoam in the gas tank. (Anyone used seafoam with good luck on their 2.0 through the intake?) Here are the symptoms: The idle is a touch rough, not as smooth as it once was. Poor milage (about 20ish with mixed driving) Increase oil consumption (several quarts between oil changes I sue 5w40 synthetic.) Smoke out of the tailpipe after stoplights when the engine is hot. I previously had two Volvos and to check the PCV system on those, one would simply turn the oil filler cap until it was loose while leaving it on the valve cover and if the cap bounced or rattled, you needed to clean the flame trap or PCV system. If it stayed sucked down on the cover the system was fine. I loosened the cap on my VW and it bounced all over the place. Is this test valid for the VW? The two PCV systems are very different. Additionally, I took off all of the PCV pipes and I couldn't find anything wrong with them. They weren't even a little plugged. Ideas? I have read that the AEG engines are notorious for clogged PCV systems but I didn't find anything helpful about my AVH. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Oct 13, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 04:36
|
|
|
timb posted:By the way, doing DSG service by hand is pretty easy. You don't even need the fancy fill tool or VAG-COM. Did you just remove the filter, drain, measure, fill and then install the new filter? Did you use the snorkel they mention on myturbodiesel? I just got a 2010 golf tdi and it needs the brake fluid flushed. Seems pretty straight forward from the instructions here and here. Is there anything I should look out for?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2012 03:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
Going to look at an 04 R32 w/ 110,000 miles. Anything to check for? Advice? going to be a daily driver.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2012 03:39
|
|
