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The 1UZ is one of the most overbuilt stock motors ever made. It's up there with the 4.0 Jeep and the Slant 6 in terms of toughness, and the Aussies have proven they can take retarded levels of boost. Maybe I just have a big boner for them because I've owned 4 litre V8s for half my automotive life. But I seriously think you should consider it as a reliable dark horse option.
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Sep 16, 2012 21:12
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I've been chatting with the local SoCal Bricklin guru via email. He makes and sells his own upgraded air door system which seems pretty legit. The system I've seen most often has one long tank that holds the compressed air that serves both doors. It seems to work fine, but it would make sense to have a separate tank for each door, right? Behold:  The two tanks are the silver things next to the headlights, and the compressor is mounted in front of the radiator. The problem, however, is those tanks now sit exactly where I was planning on putting the intercooler pipes, and the compressor is where the intercooler itself was going to go. I'm going to talk to this guy and see if we can't find a way to mount all this equipment in the back of the car somehow, which should also help with the weight distribution. One cool thing about that picture that has me thinking now is doing twin sidemount intercoolers instead of a FMIC. That is, if I go with a V engine of some sort that would have two turbos. While I really like what I'm reading about the 1UZ, and they can be had for $500 for the engine only it seems, I'm currently leaning towards the 6G72. Front clips of Mitsu GTOs can be had in the $2500-3000 range and would come with everything needed to fire right up, including the entire twin turbo system and engine management. The 1UZ would require the same front clip, plus probably several thousand worth of turbo parts. Also soarer/SC400 front clips don't seem to exist on the internet from my somewhat limited searches. And my god am I afraid to do this whole JDM import thing. Does anyone know of a reputable JDM importer that carries front clips? It seems every JDM importer on the net has nothing but horror stories.
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Sep 18, 2012 07:32
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Which RWD transmission bolts on to your twin turbo V6?
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Sep 18, 2012 11:37
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BoostCreep posted:
What about a ls400 or gs400 front clip? Those seem to be way more common than sc400's in the states and should be pretty easy to come by. The only other issue you will have to deal with is what transmission to use with a 1uzfe, as toyota only ever sold them(in the US at least) with automatic's.
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Sep 18, 2012 20:15
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Sockington posted:Which RWD transmission bolts on to your twin turbo V6? The Mitsu Montero comes with the 6G72 longitudinal mounted, so that tranny (R5M31) will bolt up. The only problem is they are all automatic in the US. I think I'm getting ahead of myself. I'm just going to pull the stock engine and go from there. Edit: Though I just stumbled upon the M5UR1 which is used in the 05-06 Kia Sorento. 5 speed manual, RWD. It bolts to the 3.5 V6 which is derived from the 3.5 6G72 with the same bolt casting as the 3000GT engine. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Sep 18, 2012 |
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Sep 18, 2012 20:16
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Going to stock up on them? I don't imagine the Kia transmission is all that stout.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:48
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The Sorento is a V6 so it should be able to handle the power.
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Sep 18, 2012 23:49
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The Sorento is not a modified twin turbo V6 was more my thoughts. 
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Sep 19, 2012 00:04
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Negromancer posted:What about a ls400 or gs400 front clip? Those seem to be way more common than sc400's in the states and should be pretty easy to come by. The only other issue you will have to deal with is what transmission to use with a 1uzfe, as toyota only ever sold them(in the US at least) with automatic's. You can use a R154 Supra 5 speed with an adapter plate. Possibly a R151 too (Tacoma/4Runner?), from a brief look on Google. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Sep 19, 2012 |
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Sep 19, 2012 00:28
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I can't find any info on who makes the Kia M5UR1 tranny. Getrag apparently makes the Kia Sportage 5 speed transmission, and the 3.5 engine was shared as part of the Mitsubishi/Hyundai/Chrysler joint effort that saw engines and transmissions shared between various platforms from the 90's through the late 2000's. But I can't seem to nail down a manufacturer for the M5UR1. Like I said, I think I'm getting ahead of myself. I'm planning on pulling the stock engine and tranny this weekend as long as it's not 115 degrees in the garage again and going from there. I did however find local SC400s and 3000GT VR4s for sale in the $1,500-$2,00 range, so both are affordable as donors. They would just need fresh rebuilds obviously. Both engines have the manual transmission problem though, so I might have to fabricate an adapter plate either way.
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Sep 19, 2012 00:47
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I don't see why you couldn't mount the pressure tanks anywhere, I can't imagine you'd get an appreciable pressure drop over 10' of hose.
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Sep 19, 2012 01:05
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revmoo posted:I don't see why you couldn't mount the pressure tanks anywhere, I can't imagine you'd get an appreciable pressure drop over 10' of hose. If anything, it should be better mounting the tanks in the back since the door pistons are mounted behind the seats in the hatch. I just need to make sure there's room in the quarter panels or under the rear bumper for those tanks as they're pretty big. I can't imagine the guy that makes the kit sells many of them these days since it's not like there's a million Bricklins on the road with old hydraulic door systems in need of upgrades, so hopefully he can custom make the air hose to length. The kit comes with the brackets to mount the tanks and compressor to the front crash beam, so I might have to modify them or make my own if I change the mounting locations.
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Sep 19, 2012 01:50
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BoostCreep posted:Business card of the first owner: http://www.joincalifornia.com/candidate/5796 Apparently Senator Alan Robbins spent four years in a prison camp on bribery charges. He also wore a wire for the FBI and recorded a lobbyist attempting to bribe him, thereby reducing his sentence. He's still alive, so he might be interested in that film.
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Sep 19, 2012 14:06
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ACEofsnett posted:http://www.joincalifornia.com/candidate/5796 Yeah Mr. Robbins was no angel. I saw the film canister and got so excited, but alas:  Still somewhat cool, as all the coins are brand new from 1976. It would be fun to track him down and show him the car once it's back on the road.
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Sep 19, 2012 19:55
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Saw this and thought of you.
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Sep 21, 2012 06:00
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Rugoberta Munchu posted:Saw this and thought of you. That's awesome. According to IMDB that is a film. Did you see it, or just the poster? I wonder what the relevance of the Bricklin is there.
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Sep 21, 2012 09:31
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It's a low budget schlock/horror deal set in Canada. The B gets some screen time but not much if I remember right.
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Sep 21, 2012 09:52
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echoplex posted:It's a low budget schlock/horror deal set in Canada. The B gets some screen time but not much if I remember right. It gets slid into a gutter (American: Kerb. I think.) pretty solidly in the outtakes. I think it just fitted into the trashy (sorry) -'70's to '80's exploitation/"The World Of The Near Tomorrow" feel the film was going for.
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Sep 21, 2012 11:20
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echoplex posted:It's a low budget schlock/horror deal set in Canada. The B gets some screen time but not much if I remember right.
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Sep 21, 2012 16:13
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It was another scorcher weekend, but I did manage to at least spend a tiny amount of time under the Brick. On Saturday I went to Harbor Freight to buy my engine hoist and stand, and realized the hoist would never in a million years fit inside my Evo. Normally I would have driven my Jeep Cherokee which would fit the hoist just fine, but I got t-boned at an intersection a few weeks ago and it got totalled. I started to get pissed that my parts hauler was taken from me, so I did something silly and bought a new one. (cross-posted from the Jeep thread)  Then on Sunday I got up and went back to Harbor Freight to find that they just sold the last engine hoist in stock and wouldn't get another one for a month. MOTHER F&^%R. So I resigned to not taking the engine out this weekend and ordering a hoist online like I should have done in the first place. In the meantime, I did less important things. I drained the 31 year old oil out of the engine and it was pretty nasty as expected.  Got larger jack stands so I could reach the back side of the transmission to take proper measurements.  Got some pictures of the cross member that will support the new engine. It's welded to the frame, so am going to have to find a way to make it work with whatever engine goes in.  The rubber is still in remarkable shape:  Here's a nice picture of the underside of the brake booster. That will be coming out.  I love where the oil filter is mounted. Wonder if I can reuse that mount in some way when the new engine goes in.  So it's exactly 24 inches from the back of the block to the center of the hole for the shifter. Time to do some research to figure out what will fit there with minimal modifications. I'm starting to think it might not be a bad idea to pull the engine and transmission and put in a new one with an automatic for now just to get it operational. I have enough going on with this car between the door and body restoration and interior work that swapping to a manual right away will keep the car in the garage for a long time and I want this to be a rolling restoration, not a jack stand monument to depleted bank accounts. Plus there are deals like this that are hard to ignore: http://tinyurl.com/8cf8nle
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Sep 24, 2012 21:54
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How's progress been this past week? My buddy snapped this earlier today while working in Morinville, Alberta. 
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Oct 2, 2012 23:55
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neckbeard posted:How's progress been this past week? That's a nice looking B. Funny seeing one on the road just hanging out like that. Usually owners of good condition cars like that keep them hidden away in a garage somewhere. Progress is slow. I have a big deadline coming up with work and my girlfriend of almost 4 years and I just split so there's been a lot of drama lately. However I did manage to get the engine pretty much ready to be pulled. Unbolted the exhaust pipes from the manifolds, drained the coolant and unhooked the radiator hoses, heater core hoses, all vacuum lines, electric connections and ground wires, throttle cable, and whatever else was in that mess of early 70's California SMOG equipment. I still have to unhook the AC system, which I'm pretty positive is still pressurized looking at the condition of the components - which is why I didn't tackle that last weekend. And since it's from the mid 70's I should probably find the least deadly way to release the R12 from the system. I'm going to attempt to keep AC on this car, using probably the compressor from whatever engine I swap in and finding a way to adapt it to the stock condensor. I know this is a silly thing to put on my list, but I'd really like to be able to say it has functioning AC. Plus it'll be nice on sunny socal summer days. If this plan doesn't work, I'm sure I can retrofit something else. One interesting thing is that the coolant came out completely clear and clean. Not a single bit of rust or discoloration which was surprising. Despite this, the exterior of the radiator is nasty and the inside is probably still toast, so I plan on replacing it with an aluminum one anyway. After doing a ton of research, I can't seem to find any RWD manual transmissions that are short enough for the center of the shifter to be only 24" to the bellhousing surface. The shortest I've found so far is the Z32 300zx tranny and that was 29". So like I posted earlier, I'm thinking of getting an auto transmission to make things move faster and cheaper. I want this thing off jack stands asap. Plus swapping to a manual transmission will give me something to look forward to after I get it running.
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Oct 3, 2012 01:44
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If you use a muncie sm420 it is short and it has a pto shaft so you can put those hydraulics to use.
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Oct 3, 2012 02:15
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Elephanthead posted:If you use a muncie sm420 it is short and it has a pto shaft so you can put those hydraulics to use. I forgot to mention that it will need to handle 500ft lbs of torque and still shift at 7,000rpm. That narrows the field considerably.
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Oct 3, 2012 02:18
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BoostCreep posted:I forgot to mention that it will need to handle 500ft lbs of torque and still shift at 7,000rpm. That narrows the field considerably. Not a problem with the SM420. It was available in 2-ton trucks and military applications. However, the unsynchronized 7:1 granny 1st gear might not be desirable in your application.
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Oct 3, 2012 07:07
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Putting an automatic behind a high strung 4g63 sounds like asking for trouble. Also I would consider properly removing and storing the R12 instead of disposing of it, it isn't easy to come by anymore.
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Oct 3, 2012 07:18
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What about a TKO?
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Oct 3, 2012 07:21
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Das Volk posted:Putting an automatic behind a high strung 4g63 sounds like asking for trouble. Also I would consider properly removing and storing the R12 instead of disposing of it, it isn't easy to come by anymore. Yeah I do plan on removing it properly. I didn't have the equipment last weekend and I want to make sure I do it right. What's the benefit of storing R12? Is there a market for it or something? If I go with an automatic it will either be an auto Montero tranny bolted to a 6g72tt or more likely a 2jzgte from an Aristo or Supra. The only reason I'm considering an auto right now is due to how cheap I can get a JDM 2jz with an auto tranny bolted up and ready to go. Like this: http://tinyurl.com/9e8bqv2 IOwnCalculus posted:What about a TKO? VERY interesting... With a proper bellhousing that would place the shifter pretty much exactly where I need it. Just as I thought I had this all figured out. Thanks for the info.
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Oct 3, 2012 11:16
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I wouldn't rule out GM's LS series of engines. Junkyard 4.8s/5.3s can be found dirt cheap, most of the performance LS goodies will also work on them, and they will be just as compact as the V8 already in there. Check out this guy's Fairmont videos. Junkyard LS, LS7 cam, mismatched heads, etc. He finally swapped in a slightly nicer 5.3 and is running 9s, for well under $10k total (car included).
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Oct 3, 2012 20:23
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BoostCreep posted:VERY interesting... With a proper bellhousing that would place the shifter pretty much exactly where I need it. Just as I thought I had this all figured out. Thanks for the info. Yeah, there's even more info here on the shifter positions. That's pretty much my best choice for a transmission if I ever go insane and swap the 4L60E out for a manual in my GMC; the T-56 has the shifter hanging out way at the back and in that truck, it would have the shifter entering the cab somewhere around the middle of the seat.
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Oct 3, 2012 21:13
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What about a T56 from a CTS-V? I know they're a little different than the normal ones in that they have a linkage that connects the shifter instead of it being directly in the trans. Maybe it could be lengthened or shorted to work.
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Oct 3, 2012 22:07
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Doesn't the T-56 also allow you to put the shifter either on top or back by the tail housing?
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Oct 3, 2012 22:52
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DreamOn13 posted:What about a T56 from a CTS-V? I know they're a little different than the normal ones in that they have a linkage that connects the shifter instead of it being directly in the trans. Maybe it could be lengthened or shorted to work. Wow, it looks like it's actually meant to make the shifter even further back / higher up than other T-56s though:  Raluek: Not from the factory; it looks like there are companies that modify them in that way, but that plate on top is just an inspection cover from the factory.
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Oct 3, 2012 23:29
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Find a van with a tough manual transmission (in the UK, it's consider an MT75 out of a Transit)? They tend to have much shorter tailhousings and remote shift linkages.
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Oct 4, 2012 17:42
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InitialDave posted:Find a van with a tough manual transmission (in the UK, it's consider an MT75 out of a Transit)? They tend to have much shorter tailhousings and remote shift linkages. This is going to be, as near as makes no difference, impossible in the states. It's been nearly twenty years since you could get a van with a stick and they tended towards three-speed column mounts, with the occasional 3 or 4 speed floor shift. Even twenty years ago they were rare. I think the Astro came with a 5, but I don't know if it would be strong enough as the Astro was a sort of midsize van; if memory serves that 5-speed would have been behind nothing more exciting than a 6.
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Oct 4, 2012 23:11
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Man, this thread is so cool. I've always loved doorstop cars like the DeLorean and Pantera. I wonder how much worse working on a steel body car like a pantera would be compared to this Bricklin....
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Oct 5, 2012 19:12
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Taco Box posted:I wonder how much worse working on a steel body car like a pantera would be compared to this Bricklin.... I'm sure the SS panels on the Delorean have their own issues, but at least there are NOS parts available and they bolt on. For me to do any body work to the Bricklin, I have to take a heat gun and heat the edges of the frame under the acrylic panels just enough that I loosen the glue that holds the panel to the steel frame without melting the acrylic, and then slide a putty knife under the panel and slowly separate the two pieces without cracking the acrylic either. In fact, I have a 17 page document that tells me how to properly remove the door skin and reattach it. So if anything, a Pantera is probably a dream to work on compared to this car.
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Oct 5, 2012 19:46
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BoostCreep posted:I'm sure the SS panels on the Delorean have their own issues, but at least there are NOS parts available and they bolt on. For me to do any body work to the Bricklin, I have to take a heat gun and heat the edges of the frame under the acrylic panels just enough that I loosen the glue that holds the panel to the steel frame without melting the acrylic, and then slide a putty knife under the panel and slowly separate the two pieces without cracking the acrylic either. Except for the rust that an early 70's car would probably have.
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Oct 5, 2012 21:06
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Taco Box posted:Except for the rust that an early 70's car would probably have. The parts of the Bricklin that can rust do so very well, even in completely dry and normally rust-free climates. At least you can repair rust. A fiberglass and acrylic bonded door skin, once it develops cracks, is done for. Time for a new one at the cost of $900+ per (if there are any NOS left), unless you want to get a fiberglass replacement, in which case it's $350 for unfinished fiberglass that needs to be cleaned, deburred, straightened, primed, painted, reattached to the door frame, and hung back on the car. Why did I buy this thing again?
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Oct 5, 2012 21:54
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 07:15 |
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BoostCreep posted:Why did I buy this thing again? Turbo Bricklin.
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Oct 5, 2012 22:17
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