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I have a 1997 Acura RL with 149k on it. I've owned it since 96k and I'm pretty sure everything in the suspension is original and therefore anything that could have worn out has. If I want to completely redo the suspension which parts am I going to need to replace?
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Oct 5, 2012 23:01
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Vim Fuego posted:I have a 1997 Acura RL with 149k on it. I've owned it since 96k and I'm pretty sure everything in the suspension is original and therefore anything that could have worn out has. If I want to completely redo the suspension which parts am I going to need to replace? Well......do you really need to shotgun the entire suspension? Do you have a problem that you are trying to rectify? Depending on what is wrong and what condition it's in it could be literally everything (if you have massive rust problems) but it's just not likely you need a completely new suspension at 150k miles. Struts, maybe ball joints, maybe bushings.....but just going at it and replacing everything without defining the problem seems foolish to me.
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Oct 5, 2012 23:05
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I'm gonna agree with Motronic - more than likely you need shocks/struts, but probably not much else except maybe bushings. And even then, I'd doubt the struts are completely blown unless you drive down some lovely roads regularly. The RL is a really well-built car; 149k is barely broken in, as long as maintenance has been kept up on. However, if it hasn't been done before, you're more than a little overdue for the timing belt service. It's supposed to be changed every 105k/7 years, whichever comes first (along with the water pump). If that hasn't been done yet, I'd take care of the most pressing suspension issues (if there's anything in really bad shape) and spend the rest on the timing belt service ASAP. Godholio posted:poo poo, I meant to type 85-89. It's definitely an elevation thing. El Paso is around 4000 ft, and the highest I remember seeing when I lived there was 91. 
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Oct 6, 2012 00:02
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Safety Dance posted:As I understand it, in crazy-land (anywhere but North America), octane is computed differently. American 93 octane is the same as anywhere-else 98 octane. Australia here, and it makes far more sense that the numbers are calculated differently, as opposed to us just getting better fuel across the board.
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Oct 6, 2012 00:26
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Vim Fuego posted:I have a 1997 Acura RL with 149k on it. I've owned it since 96k and I'm pretty sure everything in the suspension is original and therefore anything that could have worn out has. If I want to completely redo the suspension which parts am I going to need to replace? Get your car in the air and grab a big rear end pry bar. Find your bushings, take your pry bar find a place to wedge it in and give it a pull or push. See if there is movement. A tiny tiny amount is acceptable, but if you can see parts moving, that is your trouble point. I am not to familiar with Honda, but I imagine control arm bushings are always a good place to look. http://youtu.be/B_ofryUjuTE Here is a video that can explain what I am talking about. MOOG has composed a nice set of videos on their you tube channel talking about suspension problems and so forth. I have learned that bushings can make or break a suspension.
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Oct 6, 2012 00:36
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Godholio posted:Gas Buddy is a fantastic cell phone app for finding local gas prices. Yeah but usually the reporting on 91 octane (at least for me) has been far more lax, since so many stations only put their 87 price on the curb and people are lazy. I've found plenty of records where 87 was updated hours ago and 91 hasn't been updated in days or shows as N/A because it expired out. YF19pilot posted:
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Oct 6, 2012 00:37
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Geoj posted:Unless the streets where you live resemble a bombing range or you habitually run into curbs at speed you shouldn't need to do annual alignments. Iowa means for 3 months of the year there's chunks of ice all over the place, and the other 9 months is repairing the potholes from the winter, and that's not counting the unpaved roads, so ... yeah, that probably explains some of it.
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Oct 6, 2012 01:25
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Thanks for the advice and the link. Timing belt was done around 98-100k. I had been considering redoing it because that was about 7 years ago. Given the consensus here I don't intend to replace the whole suspension if it's not necessary. It is not a rusty car. However, the car rides 1-1.5 inches lower than it used to and I've noticed more body roll and some bouncing while driving.
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Oct 6, 2012 01:26
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Hi all, I have a dumb question. I'm currently driving a 99' Camry with 240k miles. It's been a good car for my college years and as I near the end of my collegiate career I find myself wanting a change of scenery. I've been looking around on CL and this gem caught my eye: http://omaha.craigslist.org/ctd/3300396293.html. My question is: is this a good buy and are BMW's from this time period reliable? The car looks good in the ad and it seems well taken care of, the only issues are cosmetic, which is fine with me. I thought it would be best to ask you knowledgeable goons first before making a decision. Your advice and/or concerns are much appreciated.
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Oct 6, 2012 02:31
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Luigi_Cyclone posted:Hi all, I have a dumb question. I'm currently driving a 99' Camry with 240k miles. It's been a good car for my college years and as I near the end of my collegiate career I find myself wanting a change of scenery. I've been looking around on CL and this gem caught my eye: http://omaha.craigslist.org/ctd/3300396293.html. I'd love to help, but it seems the ad has been removed.
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Oct 6, 2012 02:49
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Luigi_Cyclone posted:Hi all, I have a dumb question. I'm currently driving a 99' Camry with 240k miles. It's been a good car for my college years and as I near the end of my collegiate career I find myself wanting a change of scenery. I've been looking around on CL and this gem caught my eye: http://omaha.craigslist.org/ctd/3300396293.html. Well that link is dead. Stick with E46's (3 series from 99-05). Manual is the best choice, and either the 323i/325i or the 328i/330i is a great engine. Obviously the bigger one will provide more fun. Make sure there are GOOD records. I mean every thing was looked after. Getting a good example will be easy to care for... but one that's neglected will kill you. If you want more of a family cruiser, an E39 528i (01-03 are the best, they have the best updates. Being a 5 series fan boy, that seems to be the best blend of style, room, and sport combined into a great package. Though a 540i makes for huge smiles when you mash the accelerator pedal. Pop over to the BMW thread and do some reading. BMW makes a fantastic car, but do require upkeep. Unlike your Camry, it will require more than just oil and gas. But you do get a huge community, and especially AI, you will find every one here is very willing to help. I should also should add, go for a car with the sport package, besides obvious goodies, the sport seats are freaking amazing. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 02:55
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Vim Fuego posted:Thanks for the advice and the link. Timing belt was done around 98-100k. I had been considering redoing it because that was about 7 years ago. Given the consensus here I don't intend to replace the whole suspension if it's not necessary. It is not a rusty car. However, the car rides 1-1.5 inches lower than it used to and I've noticed more body roll and some bouncing while driving. If it's actually riding that much lower, the inside edge of your tires would be wearing at a shocking rate (at least with the double wishbone suspension your car uses). Riding lower would be indicative of sagging springs, and if it's an inch lower than it used to be, you won't be able to get a good alignment without replacing parts. The bouncing would point at worn shocks/struts. Increased body roll could be that, bushings, weak springs, broken swaybar links.. anything really. I'd get an alignment done, personally - a good alignment tech will be able to tell you what's worn, and it definitely needs one if the suspension is sagging as bad as you say. A good independent frame/alignment shop would be my recommendation, though Firestone offers a lifetime alignment service (but any other work tends to be on the expensive side with them).
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Oct 6, 2012 03:11
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some texas redneck posted:
Well there's gonna be a regional distribution factor (most of Texas is well below 4k), but check out gas stations in any real mountainous state - Colorado, Utah, Idaho and you'll see. IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah but usually the reporting on 91 octane (at least for me) has been far more lax, since so many stations only put their 87 price on the curb and people are lazy. I've found plenty of records where 87 was updated hours ago and 91 hasn't been updated in days or shows as N/A because it expired out. I figured it would be updated less frequently, but that sucks. I generally only use it for lower octane stuff, since the only car I drive that needs premium also hates E10, and that limits me to exactly one gas station within a 40 minute drive. Godholio fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 16:08
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I've been researching importing cars such as the Vauxhall Monaro VXR, Nissan Skyline GTR R32 R33 and R34, and the Subaru Forester STI. From my research I've found that I can import the Monaro and Forester STI with no problem since it was designed for both JDM and AUSDM, and Australia has almost identical rules as the US except for the RHD/LHD differences. Anyways, I was browsing the Canadian craigslist looking for GTR's since I had been hearing if a car was 25 years old you could import it, and while looking on the EPA website I stumbled upon this: Soon afterwards I stumbled upon this: http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/cto/3267556830.html So my stupid question is am I the only one who is seeing the ability to cheaply import a Skyline GTR R32 with little to no problems? If so then I will be selling everything and flying to Vancouver to pick this up (hopefully?) Thanks! Tusen edit: link to the original document:http://www.epa.gov/otaq/imports/documents/420b11015.pdf it's on page 13 FAT32 SHAMER fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 21:41
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EPA block out is 21 years. NHTSB is the one with the 25 year rule. So you still need to comply with the NHTSB's block out (often referred to as the "Mercedes rule" for good reason). Basically, you either need to modify that R32, or you will have to wait until 2016 before bringing it here.
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Oct 6, 2012 22:01
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Here's a dumbshit question so feel free to laugh at me: is a faint whining sound on acceleration normal for a Dodge engine? It was noticeable but not alarming when I test drove an '04 Stratus earlier today for a cheap commuter car. The used lot dealer was claiming "that's just the sound Dodge engines make" and not having owned a Dodge since a poo poo '87 Lancer in high school I know no different. Feel free to call me dumb for even considering the purchase but I kind of liked it 
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Oct 6, 2012 22:07
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YF19pilot posted:EPA block out is 21 years. NHTSB is the one with the 25 year rule. So you still need to comply with the NHTSB's block out (often referred to as the "Mercedes rule" for good reason). Basically, you either need to modify that R32, or you will have to wait until 2016 before bringing it here.  Saint Sputnik posted:Here's a dumbshit question so feel free to laugh at me: is a faint whining sound on acceleration normal for a Dodge engine? It was noticeable but not alarming when I test drove an '04 Stratus earlier today for a cheap commuter car. The used lot dealer was claiming "that's just the sound Dodge engines make" and not having owned a Dodge since a poo poo '87 Lancer in high school I know no different. Feel free to call me dumb for even considering the purchase but I kind of liked it Sounds like power steering to me. FAT32 SHAMER fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 22:12
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Tusen Takk posted:Sounds like power steering to me. I googled it before posting and that's what came up, though I'm not a guy who can confirm that by ear. If I can get the dealer to take care of the issue, if it is an issue, what's the opinion around here on the '04 Dodge Stratus?
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Oct 6, 2012 23:05
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Manual or auto? Last time I heard a dodge whining it was the torque converter. Could also be the pilot bearing on a manual, ps pump, alternator, ac compressor clutch bearing, etc.
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Oct 6, 2012 23:16
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kastein posted:Manual or auto? Last time I heard a dodge whining it was the torque converter. Auto, V6 2.7L, with 66k miles. Carfax report is clean for what that's worth. He's asking $5,900 which seems a bit high. As for the basic question, a guy is lying when he says Dodge engines just make any kind of noise discernibly different from any other engine?
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Oct 6, 2012 23:35
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Could go either way on the noise, but...really? $6k and you want to buy a 2.7L Stratus? The 2.7L is a gutless wonder that has some serious longevity issues with regards to oiling. You can do a lot better for $6k.
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Oct 7, 2012 00:13
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I have another stupid importing question! According the the list of approved to import list on the NHTSA.gov site (Here is the link), the Skyline GTR R33 is allowed to be imported with very little problem, just like the Subaru Forester STI and the BMW 5 series and 7 series that you can get for cheaper there and ship over here. I've heard people say the R33 isn't the best year and you can convert a Forester XT to STI, but regardless, does anyone have experience in importing cars over from the UK/Europe? I have no idea why I'm looking into this this much other than to be a special snowflake at car meets. Thanks!
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Oct 7, 2012 00:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Could go either way on the noise, but...really? $6k and you want to buy a 2.7L Stratus? The 2.7L is a gutless wonder that has some serious longevity issues with regards to oiling. Sounds like I should try to keep the '98 Saturn limping along for now. I'd looked at most of the lots in town (Warsaw, Ind.) and there's not much under $5k; for that price, the lot I was at today had an '02 Cavalier and '01 Sunfire but neither appealed to me.
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Oct 7, 2012 00:30
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What's a good car that I can get for about a grand, that I can take apart and gently caress with to learn how the internals of a car work? I'm going to guess a Civic probably tops this list, but thought I'd ask AI first.
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Oct 7, 2012 01:35
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Or anything with a 3800 in it.
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Oct 7, 2012 02:36
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Saint Sputnik posted:Sounds like I should try to keep the '98 Saturn limping along for now. I'd looked at most of the lots in town (Warsaw, Ind.) and there's not much under $5k; for that price, the lot I was at today had an '02 Cavalier and '01 Sunfire but neither appealed to me. This is your problem. Lots are always going to try to bend you over a barrel. Look on craigslist and in your local paper for private sellers.
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Oct 7, 2012 02:52
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Saint Sputnik posted:Sounds like I should try to keep the '98 Saturn limping along for now. I'd looked at most of the lots in town (Warsaw, Ind.) and there's not much under $5k; for that price, the lot I was at today had an '02 Cavalier and '01 Sunfire but neither appealed to me. An 02 Cavalier isn't worth much over $2k, same for an 01 Sunfire. That's assuming good condition - they're pretty terrible cars and don't age well at all. The 02 should have the Ecotec, which is a pretty solid engine. The 01 won't. Even if you only want to go to a lot, they have haggle room built into the price. The lot I got my car from was asking $4000, I offered $2500 and they took it without blinking. Then the repairs started..
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Oct 7, 2012 07:16
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I just did a head job on a 99 cavalier, it wasn't bad (pushrod 2.2 motor) but gently caress ever buying one of those basket cases. So many dumb design decisions.
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Oct 7, 2012 07:40
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The 12v plug on my dad's 2005 Chevy 3500 Express Cargo Van (where he plugs in the phone charger) has stopped working after he left something charging over night. The fuse is not the problem, so it looks like I need a replacement socket. What is the official name of the part and where can I buy one online? I'm seeing it referred to as a lighter plug, phone socket, cigarette plug, etc. etc. etc. I've been looking all morning, and the closest I've come is the Dorman plug which seems to be incompatible with the van, not to mention it was for charging the phone, not the cigarette lighter. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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Oct 7, 2012 16:47
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Bioshuffle posted:The 12v plug on my dad's 2005 Chevy 3500 Express Cargo Van (where he plugs in the phone charger) has stopped working after he left something charging over night. The fuse is not the problem, so it looks like I need a replacement socket. What is the official name of the part and where can I buy one online? I'm seeing it referred to as a lighter plug, phone socket, cigarette plug, etc. etc. etc. Did you test the fuse? Visual inspections are not 100%. Also, did you test the phone charger in a known good outlet? It's hard to imagine the 5W draw from a phone charger blowing a fuse or ruining the outlet, though.
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Oct 7, 2012 19:36
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I'm thinking of changing the battery in my car. Is this an easy job or should I bring it to the mechanic?
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Oct 7, 2012 21:52
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Should take you all of 5 minutes with a wrench/ratchet. However, if you lack tools if I'm not mistaken most chain parts stores will install a battery for free with purchase. A mechanic is just going to charge you $20 on top of the cost of the battery.
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Oct 7, 2012 21:55
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Geoj posted:Should take you all of 5 minutes with a wrench/ratchet. However, if you lack tools if I'm not mistaken most chain parts stores will install a battery for free with purchase. A mechanic is just going to charge you $20 on top of the cost of the battery. For sure, O'Reilly, Advanced, and AutoZone will do it for free. Not sure if NAPA does, but it is likely. These places will also do free wiper blade replacements/installs and stuff like that.
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Oct 7, 2012 22:17
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COUNTIN THE BILLIES posted:I'm thinking of changing the battery in my car. Is this an easy job or should I bring it to the mechanic? What they said, plus if you have them install it for you, you avoid having to take a return trip to return your old core.
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Oct 7, 2012 23:47
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Geoj posted:Should take you all of 5 minutes with a wrench/ratchet. However, if you lack tools if I'm not mistaken most chain parts stores will install a battery for free with purchase. A mechanic is just going to charge you $20 on top of the cost of the battery. This kind of depends on the car - most are easy, but some cars have a hard to reach battery (Chrysler cloud cars come to mind). If this is the case, the parts stores won't do it. The only things you really need to be careful of - be careful not to short the terminals (with a wrench, screwdriver, etc) and DO NOT hook the battery up in reverse. That's pretty much it.
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Oct 7, 2012 23:57
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I'm in the process of restoring a 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, and I'm having trouble finding a few parts. From what I can tell, this boat only came with a single driver's side door mirror when it was new. At some point, the previous owner took this one off and installed a lovely universal manual mirror. I've seen folks use sport mirrors from the Cutlasses of the same era and I've seen chrome CIPA mirrors that will supposedly fit any GM B-Body from that era, but they look like poo poo. Does anyone know if the Cutlass sport mirrors will fit properly? And if so, where could I find a pair? I'd even settle for the universal CIPAs if those fit properly.
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Oct 8, 2012 02:06
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Big Mean Jerk posted:I'm in the process of restoring a 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, and I'm having trouble finding a few parts. From what I can tell, this boat only came with a single driver's side door mirror when it was new. At some point, the previous owner took this one off and installed a lovely universal manual mirror. I've seen folks use sport mirrors from the Cutlasses of the same era and I've seen chrome CIPA mirrors that will supposedly fit any GM B-Body from that era, but they look like poo poo. Try https://www.car-part.com it will be your friend. Edit: vvv fixed... thanks! And what do you know? There is a place in Florida that has a set. Give them a call! BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 02:57
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I think you mean car-part.com.
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Oct 8, 2012 04:29
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E: I'm going to post this in the BMW thread Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 14:48
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Thanks for the advice on the battery. I took the car off the road so I can't have any mechanic work on it. Anyway, I got started with it today and of course the negative bolt was so corroded, it stripped and made the job much harder.
COUNTIN THE BILLIES fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 18:10
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