|
Splizwarf posted:I ran Icons for a couple years and then found Rain-X ones on sale when I needed wipers one day. I have found that the Rain-X ones don't leave the shining arc behind that the Icons did, and I really like them. Different strokes. v Hmm, I guess that it wasn't just me then 'cause I noticed that too, maybe I'll keep an eye on the Rain-X ones for when they go on sale. Otherwise today I washed and waxed the ride and used some Meguiars Scratch X2.0 to remove some lingering scrapes and smudges, worked amazing. No pictures though because 
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 00:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 20:42 |
|
|
Viggen posted:I blame some texas redneck. Don't blame me. Blame the dealer. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 04:21
|
|
|
Regarding Wiper Chat on the previous page: You guys need to hit up some Aquapel on all of your glass including sides and back. It is great stuff. It has worked much better than RainX for me, especially regarding wiper chatter on the glass. Sealant LSP's (Last Step Product, like a wax or sealant) also have worked pretty well for me, but don't last as long as the Aquapel. One key to a good Aquapel application is using a solvent on the glass first to remove all impurities. I clay the glass first and then use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) cut 10:1, and have good past experience on many different glasses and windshields.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 05:00
|
|
|
I missed it some more.  It is still at my mechanics after a week trying to fix a stalling issue and I don't think he is any closer to working out why it shits the bed when you let off the throttle above 2k rpm. EDIT: also, I got some rainX type stuff for my bathroom glass and tiles. Use that poo poo on everything.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 05:03
|
|
|
foundtomorrow posted:You guys need to hit up some Aquapel on all of your glass including sides and back. Seconding this. Their claims that it lasts months aren't BS either - it lasted 3.5 months between applications on the company car I drove ~3,000 miles a month at my last job. You can get it for $2-3 per applicator on Amazon, when you can find it in retail stores its about $10 each. Geoj fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 10, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2012 05:21
|
|
|
Washed and changed my oil in preparation of a 1500 mile road trip to Deals Gap. Also figured out why my brake light was flickering under hard cornering, I was low on fluid due to a leaky bleeder. Tightened it up and topped off the fluid, and also discovered during washing that the fluid that slung out onto the wheel and combined with brake dust created some impossibly difficult staining on that wheel. Managed to get most of it off with elbow grease, may look into a specialty wheel cleaner though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2012 03:50
|
|
|
Tanz-Kommandant posted:Otherwise today I washed and waxed the ride and used some Meguiars Scratch X2.0 to remove some lingering scrapes and smudges, worked amazing. No pictures though because Remember this on the 9th? Yeah that wash/wax didn't last very loving long;  I parked under a tree at work and it pretty much tree-jizzed a sap baptism onto my car. That's just the hood but it really doesn't matter if I took a picture of the roof, windows, trunk or even the loving tires/rims it's everygoddamnwhere. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 23:50
|
|
|
What did I do to my ride today? I got pretty loving angry at it. Well, not at it in particular, but at what happened to it. Went out to go to work and found this: I'm a delivery driver, so I couldn't do poo poo today. Boyfriend is taking it tomorrow to get the windshield replaced, I'm using his car tomorrow. Gonna run me $330. That's a lot of money for someone who's only been working 2 weeks. Edit: Car is a 2006 VW Jetta TDI.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 00:54
|
|
|
Does your car insurance cover glass breakage?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 01:59
|
|
|
Coronet XX posted:What did I do to my ride today? I got pretty loving angry at it. Well, not at it in particular, but at what happened to it. Went out to go to work and found this: Don't delivery drivers usually have beaters? I don't think the paycheck is worth it to put wear and tear on a 2006 personally.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 02:39
|
|
|
More S2000 work! The inside CV uses a three roller bearing design. They normally wear a ridge into the cup over time but it's faster on cars that are lowered or raced. The symptom is a vibration(usually on drivers side) on accel between 30-70mph when the roller starts wobbling into the rut. Since the drivers and passengers side shafts are different length, the bearings sit at different points inside the cup so the one time fix is to swap the cups vs. $400 for new cups or $800+ for new axles. Suspension removal; you can do this with the axles on the car, you either need to disconnect the upper A arm or the lower ball joint. People say you need a lift but just ripping out the axles entirely would make it far easier than a lift would vs. doing it on the ground. I went with A arms:  Removing drivers side cup, pull the cup towards the rear and there's a lot of room to pull it off.  Passengers side cup, needs to go FORWARD towards the engine. I got this on removal, forgot, and spent 45 minutes trying to wrangle that poo poo in before I remembered it was the otherside. Then it went in within 30 seconds. gently caress.  Offending cups; The drivers side one is the darker one. It's darker from all the metal shavings:  Spot the bearing wear:  Install is reverse of removal. No more vibrations, next time it comes up I need to replace the axles though. These ones lasted 115k so I'm happy with the free ninety nine fix. Coronet XX posted:What did I do to my ride today? I got pretty loving angry at it. Well, not at it in particular, but at what happened to it. Went out to go to work and found this: Doesn't insurance cover it? I thought most policies have a glass with deductible.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 02:51
|
|
|
Muffinpox posted:Doesn't insurance cover it? I thought most policies have a glass with deductible. Really depends on your insurance, State Farm lets you choose whether or not to increase your premium to add a no-deductible glass replacement policy on top of your insurance but it's a little pricy and unless you're REALLY unlucky won't pay itself off (but then again the said could be said about a car you drive for 10 years and never once open a claim on it), don't know about any other insurance though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 03:15
|
|
|
Hollis Brown posted:Don't delivery drivers usually have beaters? I don't think the paycheck is worth it to put wear and tear on a 2006 personally. Muffinpox posted:Doesn't insurance cover it? I thought most policies have a glass with deductible. _firehawk posted:Does your car insurance cover glass breakage?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 03:16
|
|
|
You might want to double check your coverages, I'm 99% sure you can't have Collision with State Farm w/o Comprehensive (aka Other than Collision).
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 03:28
|
|
|
I called State Farm as soon as I saw the windshield, they said I wasn't covered. This is my policy from their site:
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 03:56
|
|
|
Those liability limits seem absurdly low, but perhaps that's normal in your part of the world. You should probably nip over the the insurance thread and ask about coverage for a vehicle used for business purposes - you may well have no cover at all with a normal private policy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 03:59
|
|
|
30k liability? I Thought the minimum was 1 million at the least. Or is that just canada?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 04:12
|
|
|
Coronet XX posted:I called State Farm as soon as I saw the windshield, they said I wasn't covered. This is my policy from their site: Yeah so you do not have collision coverage. You have no coverage in any capacity for your car. Edit: You have UMPD which would apply if someone without insurance was at fault, up to 15k. dissss posted:Those liability limits seem absurdly low, but perhaps that's normal in your part of the world. This man is exactly right as well. Pull your policy contract and reference your Liability coverage section, particularly the Exclusions. There is a section in there that discusses delivery for a fee (or similar), which can, depending on your state, deny coverage for the other persons car, leaving you with a potential large out of pocket expense. Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Oct 13, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 04:28
|
|
|
If you get old and get married your rates will drop substantially.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 04:34
|
|
|
Coronet XX posted:I called State Farm as soon as I saw the windshield, they said I wasn't covered. This is my policy from their site: You absolutely need to add at least comprehensive - it's cheap and covers everything except for an accident (theft, fire, tornado sent it to Kansas, etc). I think my comprehensive ($500 deductible) adds about $90/year to my policy. Probably a little more for a newer car, but it's not expensive. To add to the fun, if you're still making payments on it (aside from Buy Here Pay Here lots), your car could get repossessed if your finance company finds out you don't have full coverage. That's a new enough car that I would seriously consider carrying collision, and I've carried comprehensive on everything I've owned (except my first car, which got stolen.. lesson learned). Also remember if something happens on the job, your insurance will not cover it, at all. Every personal policy I've ever seen specifically excludes delivery. The one claim I did have near the store I delivered for resulted in my claims adjuster calling the store, demanding my time clock records for that week (manager laughed and said not without a warrant, but that she could verify I wasn't working at the time), then demanding a copy of their delivery area map to make sure I wasn't in the store's delivery area when the claim occurred. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Oct 13, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 04:49
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:You absolutely need to add at least comprehensive - it's cheap and covers everything except for an accident (theft, fire, tornado sent it to Kansas, etc). I think my comprehensive ($500 deductible) adds about $90/year to my policy. Probably a little more for a newer car, but it's not expensive. They don't usually repo the car if you don't carry comp/coll, they invoke a clause in your loan agreement where they force backdated coverage on the car. This is outrageously expensive compared to a equivalent personal policy and they add the massive increase to your loan amount.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 04:53
|
|
|
Ah. I guess it depends on the finance company then, or maybe the laws have changed a bit. Friend went through what I described several years ago, and woke up to a repo truck one morning. In his defense, he'd been jobless and couch surfing for quite awhile. I'd probably do the same if it meant I could eat.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 05:32
|
|
|
Today I cleaned all of the windows on the inside. I was getting tired of it fogging up like woah and looking horribly filthy in direct sunlight. But I wasn't expecting to burn through such a large amount of paper towels cleaning the inside of the rear window, they turned almost completely black, it was ridiculously filthy. I'm sure it's never been cleaned in the 12 years this car has been on the road. Go wash the rear windows of your cars, people. They're probably filthy as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 22:45
|
|
|
I pulled my prospective new car out of mothballs.   In my current car, a 1992 VW Polo Mk2F I threw away the standard seats and fitted a pair of Corrado seats. Driving position is lower and everything is just fantastic.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 00:09
|
|
|
Loving that color
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 01:26
|
|
|
thats a car that needs gold rims
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 01:42
|
|
|
Muffinpox posted:More S2000 work! This was fascinating. Thanks for posting!
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 02:00
|
|
|
Not my ride anymore, but did front pads and rotors on my mother-in-law's '99 Miata. "It's making a noise" turned out to be both outside pads being worn way down, one of the inside pads being metal-to-metal, and the other inside pad having a layer of pad material so thin that it was only visible by way of not having any metal-on-metal evidence. Annoyingly, even though there are at least 10 different Autozone and OReilly locations within a 10-mile radius, the only one of either that actually had both the pads and rotors in stock was an OReilly 12 miles away.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 06:23
|
|
|
Muffinpox posted:More S2000 work! How does a front-engine, RWD vehicle end up with different length axles?
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 08:36
|
|
|
2ndclasscitizen posted:How does a front-engine, RWD vehicle end up with different length axles? Sometimes the diff housing isn't symmetrical.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 17:25
|
|
|
Replaced the thermostat, hoses, expansion tank and water pump on my 330Ci today. I knew my thermostat was toast, as it was throwing a code, plus with the cooler weather lately, the engine temperature was on the low side. What I didn't know was that my water pump was basically done for - the weep hole was gummed up with cooland residue and the shaft bearing was loose enough that I could feel the shaft wiggling in the housing. Good thing I got to it when I did.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 02:14
|
|
|
2ndclasscitizen posted:How does a front-engine, RWD vehicle end up with different length axles? Its actually quite common and is a technique used to reduce wheel hop on wot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 02:53
|
|
|
While looking for the cause of some nasty vibration at idle in my friend's wife's '04 Focus (which I'm now thinking is the result of a shot passenger side motor mount) I found a classic case of leaking valve cover gasket caused the thermostat housing gasket to swell, cracking the housing and causing a leak. Also found he'd been driving for quite some time with a disconnected driver's side swaybar endlink, and was 3/16" away from the front brake pads making metal-on-metal contact. My friend wasn't too pleased that we spent $150 fixing these more pressing issues that could cause actual lasting damage to the engine and disrupt the car's handling and braking abilites.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 06:58
|
|
|
We're getting into colder weather and I noticed my toyota truck wasn't getting up to temperature at all quickly. Clearly the tstat must be stuck open, simple. So I unbolt the tstat housing and it's empty like Al Capone's vault. There was nothing in there, not even a gasket. Still trying to figure out how it didn't leak water once in the 6 months I've owned it. loving previous owner. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 17:22
|
|
|
Geoj posted:While looking for the cause of some nasty vibration at idle in my friend's wife's '04 Focus (which I'm now thinking is the result of a shot passenger side motor mount) I found a classic case of leaking valve cover gasket caused the thermostat housing gasket to swell, cracking the housing and causing a leak. Also found he'd been driving for quite some time with a disconnected driver's side swaybar endlink, and was 3/16" away from the front brake pads making metal-on-metal contact. The Focus motor mounts are shut. I've got a video of them on my wife's Focus that's 
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 17:27
|
|
|
2ndclasscitizen posted:How does a front-engine, RWD vehicle end up with different length axles? The input of the differential is a ring gear. The worm gear is centerline but the ring that hoses and drives the differential spider gears itself is a bit offset from centerline.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 17:59
|
|
|
Muffinpox posted:The input of the differential is a ring gear. The worm gear is centerline but the ring that hoses and drives the differential spider gears itself is a bit offset from centerline. Yes, but on most reasonable cars the output flanges on the diff are spaced equal distance from centerline.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2012 18:32
|
|
|
I changed the oil on my truck this past sunday. It's a 1992 GMC Jimmy. An oil change in this truck should never be this difficult. Step 1: Slide catch pan underneath the drain plug in the oil pan. Step 2: Use a 9/16" socket to remove the drain plug. Set it aside for reinstallation. Step 3: Open the hood and attempt to unscrew the oil filter by hand. Step 4: When that fails, use a filter wrench until it rounds off all those little nubs on the bottom of the filter. Step 5: Grab the strap wrench from the toolbox and discover that it's too large to grab the filter. Step 6: Use a pair of channel lock pliers to grab the filter. Tear a hole in the side of the filter. Step 7: Hammer a screwdriver through the now perforated oil filter. Lean on it uselessly. Step 8. Remove the entire remote filter mount from the fender. Step 9: Disconnect the oil lines from the engine and oil cooler. Step 10: Get your father to help you carry a 100+lb bench vise from the back room of the workshop. It has Reading Railroad embossed on the side. Wonder how it ended up there. Step 11: Clamp the filter mount in the vise, with the filter facing up. Step 12: Take a large pipe wrench from the toolbox and watch as it spins uselessly on the filter Step 13: Grab a 5lb sledgehammer from the corner and flatten opposite sides of the filter. Step 14: Finally, use the pipe wrench and watch as it bites down on the filter and starts to unscrew it. Step 15: Reinstall the filter mount and all the plumbing to the oil cooler and the engine. Step 16: Install the new filter, making sure to wet the seal with some oil and turn it only 3/4 turn past contact. Step 17: Replace the drain plug. Be careful to not overtorque it! Step 18: Fill it with 5 quarts of fresh, fully synthetic 10w30 motor oil. Step 19: Drink an entire bottle of wine because a project that should have been 20 minutes took you four hours. corgski fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Oct 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 21:06
|
|
|
Here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W54311/N0066.oap?ck=Search_oil+filter+wrench_-1_567&keyword=oil+filter+wrench
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 21:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 20:42 |
|
|
Which would have had the same basic effect as the channel locks. The problem was that the filter was wrenched on there. Last time I ever let a mechanic change my oil.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 21:13
|
|