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My some part of my friend's 1998 Corolla trunk lid hinge/spring assembly broke. It appears to be a part of part #13 (the trunk lid hinge) on this diagram but I'm not sure. Here's a picture of the good hinge:  And one of the damaged one:  It appears the spring arm is riveted to the hinge and treated as one piece (if that parts diagram website is to be trusted). I don't know how the hinge itself is attached, so I don't know how much work it would be to replace this. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, but anything involving welding or riveting is beyond my abilities. Is this something I can DIY?
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Oct 12, 2012 23:31
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Ninja Rope posted:My some part of my friend's 1998 Corolla trunk lid hinge/spring assembly broke. It appears to be a part of part #13 (the trunk lid hinge) on this diagram but I'm not sure. 13 looks right. It appears to be bolted to the trunk based on the diagram (although that's not shown), and some kind of pin (part #15) attaches the other end to a support bracket (14) so that the arm pivots. The problem I'm seeing is that the photos imply (although the shot isn't the greatest) is that Part 14 appears to be welded to the chassis, which probably complicates things a lot. Also, I don't get a sense of if part 15 is accessible, which would be key to a proper dis-assembly. Best case, you open the trunk, unbolt the lid from both arms (might need a friend to hold the lid while you unbolt it to make the job easier/prevent damage), yank the pin (part 15) on the damaged arm, put the new arm in, replace the pin, and re-bolt up the trunk lid. Worst case, you can't get at the pin, so if you don't want to leave it alone, you'd probably have to drill out the rivet, and attach a new spring arm (the small broken part) to the existing arm with a grade 8 bolt roughly the same diameter as the rivet you drilled out. You'll probably want to avoid a fully threaded bolt if you can avoid it, so the pivot action isn't riding on some thread. It would be a hack job, and messy, but it should do the trick. Otherwise fixing it like new would require cutting into the chassis and welding to replace bracket 14, assuming that it is welding (it might be bolted, which would be lucky for you if you can't get direct access to the pin), and that appears to be outside of your skill set.
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Oct 13, 2012 00:38
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Leperflesh posted:180k km is only 111k miles. I think a 2000 Hyundai Accent could potentially do 200k+ miles if the engine is well maintained. Modern cars last a lot longer than older ones. It's an auto and the auto transmission is getting old but I don't think it's had any problems as such yet. There's no rust, and I'm in an urban environment without any road salt or anything like that. Thanks for the extra info, I'll weigh it up and see what the mechanic says and have a hard think about it. Good to know the car could have 200k+ miles in it - I wasn't aware an accent could have that longevity.
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Oct 13, 2012 05:21
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As long as you stay up on maintenance, any car made in the past 20 years should be able to hit 200k (miles) relatively easily. On an Accent, that's all the normal fluid maintenance, with the addition of a new timing belt every 5 years or so. They'll need more maintenance as they age, of course, but it's usually cheaper than a car payment. Ignore a leaking axle seal like I did and you get to replace transmissions a lot sooner though.. 
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Oct 13, 2012 05:27
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A question for the guys who flush their own fluids/change their own oil- what's the best kind of cheap container for catching and disposing of old fluid? I really don't feel like buying those overpriced basins.
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Oct 13, 2012 05:58
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There was just some discussion on this - top two budget solutions are cut down an oil rubbermaid container to 6-8" tall with a reciprocating saw or buy a kitty litter pan. I personally use one of these drain pans. Unless you have an old rubbermaid container to chop down its really no more expensive at $8 than the kitty litter pan, although if you have a side/rear exit drain plug on your oil pan it is necessary to move the pan as the oil volume in the engine decreases. I then pour the oil into a 5 gallon plastic jug, and when that gets filled I send it to work with my mechanic buddy who contributes it to his shop's used oil heater supply.
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Oct 13, 2012 07:06
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Geoj posted:I personally use one of these drain pans. \/What a concept.  (why didn't I think of that...)
melon cat fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Oct 13, 2012 |
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Oct 13, 2012 07:14
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melon cat posted:A question for the guys who flush their own fluids/change their own oil- what's the best kind of cheap container for catching and disposing of old fluid? I really don't feel like buying those overpriced basins. 
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Oct 13, 2012 07:38
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melon cat posted:I've got this one already, but I'm looking for something disposable. I don't want to surrender my RhinoGear drain pan every time I take a trip to the disposal facility. The bottles the new fluids came in. ^^^ 
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Oct 13, 2012 07:38
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I bought a 2000 Jetta from a buddy of mine the other day for dirt cheap, I had planned on returning it to a stock appearance on the exterior, and then eventually selling it. I went to go start it yesterday and the battery had died, so i jumped it and drove it around for a bit after letting it idle for around 15 minutes. I went back this morning to give the battery a little more charge and drive it around for longer and found that the battery was dead again. I jumped it and drove around for an hour this time... came back home parked it, then was walking away when I decided to give it a shot to see if it would start again.. and nope, battery is dead the second I turn it off.. what is this a sign of? The car is heavily modified, (Stereo, APR stage 1 Turbo upgrade, Blitz Turbo timer, etc..) and the car has a Optima Yellow that is only a few months old. The car had been sitting for about 6 weeks before i got it, Am I looking at getting a new battery? or do I have ghosts? if anyone needs any other details I'll gladly oblige.
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Oct 13, 2012 18:10
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Either the battery is toast and is no longer taking a charge, or your alternator is toast and is no longer charging it, or there's a parasitic drain on the battery somewhere that is draining it while sitting. The last option I would discount because it wouldn't start after you had just driven it. The fact that the battery is brand new suggests it's not already hosed, although draining it fully and not charging it can definitely damage it. Drive to an autozone and have the battery tested. They'll be able to tell you on the spot if it's hosed (in which case, replace under the battery's warranty) or if it's merely discharged. They can also help you test your alternator, which I really suspect is the issue.
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Oct 13, 2012 19:22
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I've been considering replacing my stock headlights with some projectors, but I'm not all that excited about the halo's. Does anyone make projector headlights without the halo's anymore (or ever?) I know I could just not hook up the halo's, but it would be nice if there were some options that didn't include the halo ring.
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Oct 13, 2012 22:24
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MrCrankypants posted:I've been considering replacing my stock headlights with some projectors, but I'm not all that excited about the halo's. Does anyone make projector headlights without the halo's anymore (or ever?) What car? Shouldn't be too hard to find something without, although the big thing now with ebay headlights is copying Audi's LEDs.
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Oct 13, 2012 22:48
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Geoj posted:What car? Shouldn't be too hard to find something without, although the big thing now with ebay headlights is copying Audi's LEDs. i was looking for new headlights for the jetta and found nothing but poo poo that literally have EVERY SINGLE trend on it from the past 10 years on it.
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Oct 13, 2012 23:06
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Am I just retarded, or does the 04 Ranger 3.0 vulcan not have an oil level sensor? I have a constant issue with the oil light going on (and staying on) at random times and for random amounts of time, but using an oil pressure gauge has shown every time that my pressure is just fine and floats in the top 1/3 of the acceptable range both at idle and under rev. I checked the harness and the only wires on that portion connect to the pressure sensor and the passenger side O2 sensor,(there does not appear to even be a wire for an oil level sensor) but the fact that Rockauto and Napa both list a part makes me think it's just hidden somewhere weird. Looking underneath at all sides of the pan shows no sensors either. Unless it's somehow hanging down inside the pan I have no idea where this thing is. I have searched for Ranger oil level switch/sensor locations and only ever come up with locations for late '80s and early '90s engines, nothing about the model block mine belongs to. I even went to https://www.fordparts.com and it shows an oil pan that looks absolutely nothing like the one I have(Link to part listing/diagram here: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?v=1ftyr44u24pb45857#Search ). The truck is an '04 Ranger, V6 3.0L OHV gas-only automatic 5R55E(Just couldn't find a manual that was worth buying unfortunately) for model/engine/etc info. e: To be more precise regarding the oil pan, the official Ford diagram shows the drain and level switch on the side, my drain is on the back side of the pan right in front of the bellhousing and points towards the rear axle. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Oct 13, 2012 |
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Oct 13, 2012 23:09
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Kilersquirrel posted:The truck is an '04 Ranger, V6 3.0L OHV gas-only automatic 5R55E(Just couldn't find a manual that was worth buying unfortunately) for model/engine/etc info. I bought the electronic factory service guide on ebay and then reported the guy for selling pirated material because i am a jerk and wanted my $10 back.
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Oct 13, 2012 23:12
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No no, I mean I couldn't find a stick shift Ranger worth buying. Not that I couldn't find a repair manual worth buying.
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Oct 13, 2012 23:16
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Longpost warning: I didn't want to make an entire thread about this when there is this handy dandy Stupid Question thread here. I'm trying to sell a poopload of turbos I found in my basement and asked my dad if I could half the money I get from selling them if I clean them up and sell them. He agreed, however we have a problem: neither me nor him have much idea how these fancypantsie doohickies work. I'll first post pictures of them all so that you can see what I'm dealing with: Here are my two Garrett AiResearch M11's. I know these are 60 trim, are T3 flange, and are pulled off of the late '80's Thunderbirds, and are good for 400HP. I could be wrong. Both spin freely.   and   Next I have a Schwitzer model, no idea about anything on it and it needs to be reassembled, but it still spins freely so that's a good sign v  v    I recognize that W symbol from somewhere but I have no idea where... Also this is rather large and I wouldn't be shocked if it was off some sort of truck. EDIT: Apparently Schwitzer is now known as Borg-Warner, which is kind of exciting since that means this is both old and good quality except for the whole being apart thing. Then there is this big boy. This has no marking on it whatsoever, leading me to believe that it may be some sort of Garrett turbo. It freely spins but it rubs up against the interior walls a little bit.   Up next I have an even bigger boy. I googled the number that's by the nozzle there and all I got was Portuguese and Polish pages talking about what appears to be a Hyundai Accent. This isn't freely spinning but I think with some oil it might     SO Anyone have any idea what these others are and what they're worth? I know that the AiResearches are worth about $300 each and I've been listing them for $250 here on SA since you guys are cool cats, but the others based on their condition and unknown origins, I'm rather clueless Thanks!
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Oct 13, 2012 23:56
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Geoj posted:What car? Shouldn't be too hard to find something without, although the big thing now with ebay headlights is copying Audi's LEDs. 01 GMC Sierra 1500. If it isn't too hard, I'm going to really look like an idiot because every single projector headlight I can find has halo's.
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Oct 14, 2012 00:19
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MrCrankypants posted:01 GMC Sierra 1500. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2006-G...c7c11d9&vxp=mtr does that work? albiet they are used... not sure if that matters. *edit: wow dude you weren't kidding.. cant find poo poo on ebay that isn't halo. Fatty_McLumpkin fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Oct 14, 2012 |
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Oct 14, 2012 00:23
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That's pretty brutal, looks like other than that used set the best you can do is a halo set that isn't obviously halo when they're off. What's your reason for putting projectors in, worn-out stock housings or do you want the "projector look"? In my experience E-bay/Chinese projector housings are pretty bad, both in terms of build quality and lighting performance. If you're not totally sold on projectors you might want to consider rehabing your current headlights or get a reproduction OEM set.
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Oct 14, 2012 02:00
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Geoj posted:That's pretty brutal, looks like other than that used set the best you can do is a halo set that isn't obviously halo when they're off. What's your reason for putting projectors in, worn-out stock housings or do you want the "projector look"? In my experience E-bay/Chinese projector housings are pretty bad, both in terms of build quality and lighting performance. If you're not totally sold on projectors you might want to consider rehabing your current headlights or get a reproduction OEM set. Well the current lights aren't too bad, was just considering going for a slightly different look and I like the way the beams look from the projectors. If they are that bad of quality then not much point in replacing them with projectors. The worst are the bumper light assemblies. When the daytime running lights went they ghosted the inside of the lens. I replaced the bulbs but the socket is a burnt mess. Amazingly they still work but who knows for how long. I got new sockets to replace them, just have to go out there and do it. Apparently the drl sockets are known to be crap and they just keep using them. Those used ones are what I'm looking for, but that style is ugly. I might go this route (or another style just not projector): http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLK-CRYSTAL...3671aa7&vxp=mtr My truck is yellow with a chrome grille so I think it might look pretty good and I get all 4 pieces. Either way, if I do decide to just do a reproduction replacement they are pretty cheap. There is no hurry on it so I'm not just grabbing whatever I find. Thanks for the info!
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Oct 14, 2012 04:51
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Uhh, so quick stupid question(s). Anyone know ANYTHING about this car? Was it ever a real car, when/where did it race, what the heck does it say on the side? Untitled by rholas, on Flickr
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Oct 14, 2012 09:59
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Cutie Pie Swag~
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Cute as heck posted:Uhh, so quick stupid question(s). Anyone know ANYTHING about this car? Was it ever a real car, when/where did it race, what the heck does it say on the side? Is it a Nissan Skyline, perhaps? edit: HPI Racing Nissan Skyline #26 edit 2: “Nissan Skyline ' Deisel Kiki ' 1990 N1 Touring Car #26 1990 Japanese Touring Car Championship Driven by K Tohira / T Kinoshita” [link] Arriviste fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Oct 14, 2012 |
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Oct 14, 2012 17:13
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MrCrankypants posted:Either way, if I do decide to just do a reproduction replacement they are pretty cheap. There is no hurry on it so I'm not just grabbing whatever I find. Thanks for the info! I would just go to the junk yards and find a new set. Lighting is something that aftermarket producers can't seem to get right.
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Oct 14, 2012 17:24
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melon cat posted:I've got this one already, but I'm looking for something disposable. I don't want to surrender my RhinoGear drain pan every time I take a trip to the disposal facility. Every Autozone or Advance I've ever visited will take used oil. You dump it in their giant container behind the counter.
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Oct 14, 2012 18:11
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Arriviste posted:Is it a Nissan Skyline, perhaps? Hmm, I can't find anything about the car or its drivers on here 1990 JTCC, so I'm going to assume it was never a real car? Anyway, thanks for the help!
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Oct 14, 2012 19:42
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I'm thinking about getting a radar detector, likely a V1, but I'm concerned that modern cars covered in lanekeeping systems, radar cruise control, and blind spot checking systems will mean that it is going off 24/7 if I'm in traffic at all. Can someone relay their experiences with radar detectors now that most new cars over $25k have some sort of radar on them?
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Oct 14, 2012 21:11
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I have a Beltronics GX65 and I've never had that problem. Very rarely in a residential area I'll get false alarms from garage openers or something, but they are consistently at the same place so I just lock them out (GPS is a helpful feature in several radar detectors nowadays). I've also had no problem with false alarms from other detectors.
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Oct 14, 2012 21:18
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I have a Beltronics 955. It has been awarded the best under the $200. I picked mine up from Best Buy for 150ish with a coupon and some reward zone points. It has been really pretty good, and actually picks up on radar at a pretty good distance. Though I noticed that for some reason it picks up on X band really easily, and some tower transmitters will interfere with it, but I think they just operate on the same wave length.
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Oct 14, 2012 21:57
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Has anyone ever heard of the tire brand National? I needed two new front tires for my Nissan Maxima GLE and they put National Ovations on them. I've never heard of the brand and not too much pops up on Google.
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Oct 15, 2012 03:15
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FFStudios posted:Has anyone ever heard of the tire brand National? I needed two new front tires for my Nissan Maxima GLE and they put National Ovations on them. I've never heard of the brand and not too much pops up on Google. You didn't put new tires on the front only, did you? New tires always go on the rear if you only buy a pair.
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Oct 15, 2012 04:08
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EightBit posted:You didn't put new tires on the front only, did you? New tires always go on the rear if you only buy a pair. I'd be surprised if a tire shop would even do that. It's pretty much verboten by most liability insurance carriers these days.
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Oct 15, 2012 04:32
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Motronic posted:I'd be surprised if a tire shop would even do that. It's pretty much verboten by most liability insurance carriers these days. They certainly will.
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Oct 15, 2012 05:17
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I looked in the resourced thread but didn't see anything pop out at me... About to buy a used ('01-'10) car. What brand/cars/etc. should be avoided in general (known for bad *whatever*), what are generally solid buys? I am looking for something with less than 60,000 miles, less than $10,000, and high 20s MPG if possible.
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Oct 15, 2012 05:54
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Red Robin Hood posted:I looked in the resourced thread but didn't see anything pop out at me... Check out this thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Oct 15, 2012 05:57
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Rhyno posted:Check out this thread Perfect! Thanks!
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Oct 15, 2012 06:40
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Motronic posted:I'd be surprised if a tire shop would even do that. It's pretty much verboten by most liability insurance carriers these days. I got a set of new tires on the front of my car in March or April, to replace the fronts that had belts showing... with tires well below 2/32 on the back.  Don't worry, the car was parked for a couple of months shortly after, and the backs got replaced quickly once it was running again.The tire shop also put all 4 around 55 PSI.  I thought the car was handling a little weird when I left... I was only mildly surprised when the shop folded a few months later.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Oct 15, 2012 |
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Oct 15, 2012 07:21
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EightBit posted:You didn't put new tires on the front only, did you? New tires always go on the rear if you only buy a pair. Yes, I got four, should've made that clearer.
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Oct 15, 2012 11:36
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Just my 2 cents, at my store (which is a national chain), we'll replace 2 tires at a time, but we generally push to have them put on the rear, since among the general population understeer is preferable to oversteer. So in some texas redneck's case, we'd have replaced your fronts, but recommended that you rotate them to the back for that reason. Also, you're lucky those tires didn't pop - somehow I doubt they're rated for 55 psi, even Michelins typically top out at 51 psi max rating.
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Oct 15, 2012 11:39
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