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9,000 jesus, you must have magical fairy tyres. Please make me feel better and tell me that's kilometers...
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May 30, 2012 20:37
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Saga posted:9,000 jesus, you must have magical fairy tyres. Please make me feel better and tell me that's kilometers... That's miles. 
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May 30, 2012 21:57
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Saga posted:
Its doing real good... at sitting on the floor. I haven't tried it out yet. I've got a track weekend coming up early July that I'll get these put on for. The rear Q2 is at the wear bars on the back but my work schedule just got crazy (major project going live..bleh) so not sure I'll be doing much riding for the next few weeks.
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May 31, 2012 05:12
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Am I limited on my options on my VF500F in terms of tires? I'm looking for a sport touring tire but am not sure exactly what I should be looking for.
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Jul 3, 2012 14:43
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Yay new tires! The guys at the shop said that new tires are almost literally as slick as ice for the first hundred miles. Confirm/deny.
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Jul 27, 2012 06:28
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Not as ice, but less grippy than they will be. Just don't go crazy until you've scrubbed them in. Modern tyre compounds (assuming obviously that's what you have) offer so much grip from cold and warm up so quickly that you probably won't even notice any reduction in traction.
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Jul 27, 2012 07:18
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Need to get new tires for the CB-1. Incredibly tiny sizes but I'm already running a 150/40 in the rear so should I just spring for Pilot Road 3 front and rear? I'm one on the front of my VFR and it's been awesome but they're just so expensive....
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Jul 27, 2012 07:55
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Yay new tires! If you want to rough up the surface of your tyre to make sure it works like it should, do parking lot weaves for about 15 minutes. Go slow and shallow first and gradually increase lean and/or speed. It used to be that manufacturers used some kind of grease to help release the rubber from the mold but today any slipperiness is attributed to the mold's polished surface. Whatever the case it won't take nearly as much as 100 miles to scrub 'em in. More like, one. 
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Jul 27, 2012 09:31
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EvilCrayon posted:Need to get new tires for the CB-1. Incredibly tiny sizes but I'm already running a 150/40 in the rear so should I just spring for Pilot Road 3 front and rear? I'm one on the front of my VFR and it's been awesome but they're just so expensive.... You can fit some pr2's if the price difference is significant.
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Jul 27, 2012 09:32
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Yay new tires!
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Jul 27, 2012 23:06
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I've put some miles on the S20s I mentioned in this thread earlier, so figured I'd put some words together on my experience. So far I've put maybe 1200-1500 miles on the s20s, this includes most of one track day and the rest back roads riding, no commuting or much city riding at all. I live in Houston, TX so there is a lot of straights to get anywhere mildly interesting, and most back roads riding tends to be more high speed sweepers than slow tight technical corners. Its also very hot in the summer. Bike is an 07 Aprilia Tuono, about 480lbs + 200lbs of rider and a claimed 139hp/assload of torque. I previously had a set of Q2s in 180/55 on and the s20s are 190/55 so this may have some impact on my impressions of them. At the track day I liked these tires. Coming from shagged pair of Q2s, they didn't feel like the profile was much more 'pointy', but this could also have been a factor of air pressure as I went to 27r/29f from 30/30 on recommendation from the tire vendor. What I mean by that is that I didn't feel that turn in was sharper than the Q2s whereas I expected that 'new tire falls right into the corner' thing that I've experienced with new tires in the past. They felt fine to me- gripped well in the corners, felt solid mid corner, including on tar snakes on the track etc. Would ride again at the track for sure. On the street: This is more recent in my mind. Again, the tires feel good in general, but I have noticed a couple things I don't recall having issues with on the old tires: 1) When passing over sketchy pavement, or bumps in the road, they tend to wiggle around a little. I don't know how better to describe it, perhaps it is just better front end feel than what I was used to with the Q2s. This isn't actually a big deal, its not enough to scare me mid corner or anything like that. 2) On the last ride I was on, I think either the roads got very hot from the sun and started to get all greasy, or the tires did, because I had some moments where the front and rear both slipped noticeably in a few situations where I wouldn't have expected it. For example, in the morning I rode a lot harder than in the afternoon, but in the afternoon the tire slipped on a couple occasions on fairly moderate corners and once on a freeway on ramp where I wasn't exactly hammering on it. I never actually came close to losing it, but I could certainly feel some sliding happening. I don't really recall having this issue with Q2s. I have had them slide/push wide when riding like a dong, but much less frequently. Wear wise they seem to be still at 60-70% so I hope I will get maybe 4000 miles out of them total (this is really wear in the middle, Houston riding generally means you have plenty of tread left on the sides when the middle is done). Has anyone else ridden s20s or had this experience with other tires? I don't want to be unfair to the tires because I really enjoy them overall, and would buy them again without hesitation.
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Aug 17, 2012 20:32
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Anyone have any experience with the Diablo Rosso II? I picked a 120/70 up for the front of the Tuono because it was going cheap. I understood that while the Rosso had not had stellar reviews, the II was supposed to be much improved. I'm using it with a BT016 rear. Front grip using the standard Tuono pressures is just miserable. The first decent corner on my commute is exiting a roundabout after about 5 minutes of trickling and 30-40mph riding through town. No other tyre I've had in the last 4 years or so has had a problem with some gentle kneeslider destruction in this corner, but the Rosso is tucking consistently when I try to turn in on it. Keep in mind I've used a 120/70 BT016 Pro, which is supposed to be slow to warm, with no problems at all, and that the regular 016 rear still sticks like glue. My local shop initially set the pressure at 36, which according to them is what Pirelli spec for this tyre (actually 2.5 bar, I just checked). I dropped it back to what Aprilia say for the bike (33f iirc). Might try jacking it back to 36 tommorrow, but has anyone had similar issues with the Rosso II? If I can't get to grips with it, I may have to trawl ebay for a partworn 016/023. 
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Sep 25, 2012 22:03
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Pirellis are really sensitive to pressures, in my experience. I just tossed a set on my housemate's multistrada 620 so I'll have to borrow it one day and thrash it and see what happens. Less power but similar setup to your Tuono. My experience is they prefer higher pressures than you'd expect, but the Rosso 2 seems to have a stiffer sidewall so maybe it'll want lower pressures? Dunno, would experiment running down to 33 and up to 39. Also, is it actually tucking or is it just the sidewall flexing? I know some people who hate pirellis because they feel like they move around a bunch, for me I feel like they give me only the feedback I need.
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Sep 25, 2012 23:41
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No, I always used to use dragons, then diablos and have used the st more recently. It is tucking, even had the handlebars turning in one day and as it's gotten colder and the rubber is new you can see where it's done it on the tread. Guess I will try 36. Seemed strange as it's never been a problem running lower pressures with other tyres, usually just makes the bike feel squidgy. This could explain the bargain price of £60 shipped!
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Sep 25, 2012 23:51
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Saga posted:No, I always used to use dragons, then diablos and have used the st more recently. It is tucking, even had the handlebars turning in one day and as it's gotten colder and the rubber is new you can see where it's done it on the tread. Guess I will try 36. Seemed strange as it's never been a problem running lower pressures with other tyres, usually just makes the bike feel squidgy. This could explain the bargain price of £60 shipped! Ahh, that's too bad. They got pretty good reviews so I was hoping they'd be a decent (cheap) replacement for the Pilot Roads.
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Sep 26, 2012 15:20
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Z3n posted:Ahh, that's too bad. They got pretty good reviews so I was hoping they'd be a decent (cheap) replacement for the Pilot Roads. Well, there are two reviews on visordown that say these are very slippery when new then become very sticky. Seems a bit better since going back up to 36psi, but our weather has turned so it's hard to tell. All very well if they end up gripping once they break in, but i'm not really seeing the value proposition over the BT016 or 023, which work out of the box.
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Sep 30, 2012 19:46
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If anyone has the same Harbor Frieght tire changer that I have and found it way too unstable like I did, my dad and I came up with a pretty good solution: I just bought like 6 feet of 2x2 steel bar stock and welded it to the side of the tire changer. Now I just slide that bar into the hitch of my truck and it's totally solidly mounted for all the levering and pulling you can do. It has made tire changing at least 10x easier. This and some good tire spoons and I look forward to wearing out tires 
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Oct 16, 2012 05:58
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I secured mine to the ground with concrete bolts through the 4 conveniently placed holes in the legs. Little quikcrete when I move, and it's totally indistinguishable from the surrounding concrete.
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Oct 16, 2012 06:49
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I thought about that but I don't really have a place to permanently mount it in my garage
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Oct 16, 2012 08:16
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I don't have a receiver hitch available, so I bolted mine to a 4' square of 3/4" plywood so's I'm standing on it whist muscling things around.
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Oct 16, 2012 13:31
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So I only have a few months left in SoCAL as I'm moving back to TX soon for work. I will be selling my 2010 Ninja 250 before I move and I have already purchased an '06 SV650 in Houston for my return. I think my 250 needs a new rear tire. I was planning on leaving it for the next owner to deal with as the tire isn't unrideable as is, but I have lost confidence in my cornering since starting to ride the bike 7,000 miles ago. This is the OEM tire and I believe it to be awful. Tires have 7,600 miles on them and are pretty flat spotted. I have attached some terrible pictures. front  rear  rear2  Thinking about ordering a Pirelli Sport Demon for the rear and possibly trying to put it on myself to save the $60. If I live near a harbor freight, could I buy some clamps or something and get this thing on / off myself or should I just pay someone... I'm open to buying a tool if it's relatively small.
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Jan 3, 2013 04:23
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I would suggest buying any tire at all, having someone professional install it ASAP, and saving yourself the trip to the emergency room 
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Jan 3, 2013 04:42
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Sagebrush posted:I would suggest buying any tire at all, having someone professional install it ASAP, and saving yourself the trip to the emergency room I thought this might be the response. Is the front worth changing out as well? This would be >$200 for what will probably be about three rides! EDIT: Rear tire on its way. The bike won't be ridden until the tire is installed. XYLOPAGUS fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jan 3, 2013 |
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Jan 3, 2013 06:31
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Well, if the person who buys it is sane, they'll replace the tire first thing anyway, so if you have the old one on they'll probably try to talk you down an equivalent amount. If you have two brand new tires on the bike (keep the dated receipt for both the tires and the installation) you can bring the price up a little, especially for a new rider who doesn't want to deal with immediate repairs. Ultimately you shouldn't be out too much cash and you won't have the weight on your conscience when a newbie buys the bike with bald tires, is dumb and rides it anyway, and immediately crashes. That said the front isn't as bad as the rear, no. It still has some tread. But beyond just wearing down, tires do get old and dry...I'd imagine that the heat in Texas isn't that good for them either. It's really up to you but I personally wouldn't ride it without replacing both. Your tires are all that keep you upright and on the road, remember, and unlike a car, both of them are equally critical. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jan 3, 2013 |
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Jan 3, 2013 17:28
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Sagebrush posted:Well, if the person who buys it is sane, they'll replace the tire first thing anyway, so if you have the old one on they'll probably try to talk you down an equivalent amount. If you have two brand new tires on the bike (keep the dated receipt for both the tires and the installation) you can bring the price up a little, especially for a new rider who doesn't want to deal with immediate repairs. Ultimately you shouldn't be out too much cash and you won't have the weight on your conscience when a newbie buys the bike with bald tires, is dumb and rides it anyway, and immediately crashes. I consider myself a sane and logical person. The only reasonable thing to do here is to purchase and install a front tire as well. Thanks, Herr Brush.
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Jan 4, 2013 05:05
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UPDATE: The new tires are mounted and re-installed on the bike, thanks to the help of my fiance! She claims she did nothing, but this is my first reinstall and she held the rear wheel for quite a while. Really excited about getting a few rides in on the new tires before I sell it. A part of me wants to take it back to Houston as a spare / trackbike, but I probably shouldn't since I'll be getting a huge pay cut and already have an SV650 waiting for me.
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Jan 11, 2013 06:48
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So I decided I am going to order some new pilot road 3 tires after all (Actually, largely because I don't like the OEM BT-021), but also want to use this opportunity to change the battery in my TPMS which will require a bit of soldering. So, instead of taking my rims back from the tire shop after they dismount the old ones to replace the soldered in battery, I'm thinking of doing it all myself in my garage. In order to do so, I'm going to need to buy some equipment for breaking the beads, spoons and a balancing stand/weights. Are things like this below OK? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...=item43a857a808 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-3-pc-Tire-Iron-Kit-/250801897467?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a64f53ffb http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...=item43abaf17ca Looks like for about $150 I could be in business for the once every few year tire changes. Is stuff like this OK for casual use? Edit: I'd rather not gently caress up my rims
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Jan 21, 2013 19:18
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For breaking the bead a friend of mine uses a couple of quick clamps. If you have any that might save you a dollar or two at least.
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Jan 22, 2013 03:55
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Thanks for the tip! For what it was worth, I ended up ordering that breaker. Ordered those items and Pilot Road 3 tires. Should have a chance to put them on in the next couple of weeks.
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Jan 22, 2013 21:27
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The clamps are also super useful in keeping the tyre squeezed to drop the bead into the centre of the rim. Edit: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3174783&userid=34095#post401390272 ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Jan 23, 2013 |
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Jan 23, 2013 12:48
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slidebite posted:Edit: I'd rather not gently caress up my rims
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Jan 23, 2013 13:25
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I had a pair of rim protectors but after I couldn't find them one time I just cut squares out of empty household / workshop jugs (the white HDPE type) and they actually worked better.
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Jan 23, 2013 14:23
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Thanks for the hint with the protectors. I probably have some sheets of UHMW at work I could gently caress around with, but I still might get those. Also the warming up bit. Maybe I'll just do them in my basement if it isn't warm out or direct sun.
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Jan 23, 2013 15:04
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Yeah i've made about a dozen rim protectors out of oil containers over the years. Always losing the drat things.
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Jan 23, 2013 16:29
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Just to make sure I am picturing this right: You just fold the plastic around the edge of the rim so when you pry the tire up and over you're not pushing the tire iron/spoon/whatever into the aluminum right?
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Jan 23, 2013 17:30
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Yeah, the plastic has just the right stiffness that you can jam it between the tyre and rim. I'm interested in some of the alternative dis/mounting techniques like the one where you use loads of ratchet straps around the tyre to compress it enough that you can just pop the bastard right over the rim, anyone tried that?
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Jan 23, 2013 17:38
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ReelBigLizard posted:Yeah, the plastic has just the right stiffness that you can jam it between the tyre and rim. Any videos or anything of that? I can't see that working... I do use ratchet straps to get finicky tires to seat sometimes though.
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Jan 23, 2013 18:30
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Saw it pictured on advrider, not seen video yet though: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597
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Jan 24, 2013 11:29
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ReelBigLizard posted:Saw it pictured on advrider, not seen video yet though: Ahh, I see. I wonder if it would work with a sportbike tire.
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Jan 24, 2013 17:06
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What is the consensus on dynabeads? Are they safe to use with a TPMS?
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Jan 27, 2013 18:48
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