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Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green and Testor's Dullcote)
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Oct 16, 2012 23:21
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Manifest posted:Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green and Testor's Dullcote) Winson, make this happen please!
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Oct 16, 2012 23:22
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Indolent Bastard posted:80's 'eavy Metal version. Gave it a go... ... Came out 50% old school 50% hot dog stand. 
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Oct 16, 2012 23:23
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Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up, I can't buy Simple Green or Testor's Dullcote)VogeGandire posted:I don't varnish my models.
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Oct 16, 2012 23:35
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If you use airbrush undercoat you really need to varnish.
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Oct 16, 2012 23:59
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:
There we go.
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Oct 17, 2012 00:02
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VogeGandire posted:I don't varnish my models. Hobby Lobby and other stores sell clear coat for cheap.
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Oct 17, 2012 00:16
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I occasionally see someone who obviously didn't varnish their models. It's sad because nice paintjobs are often ruined by chipped paint from traveling to and from countless games. Varnish is like having Ret style shields on your minis. That whole thing has to wear off before your paint takes any damage.
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Oct 17, 2012 00:31
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I usually don't varnish my models either. I don't really think it's completely necessary as long as you're reasonably careful when handling them (and they've had a proper undercoat). They've stood up to years of gaming with very few touch-ups, and it's usually the metal models that pick up some battle damage, which varnish probably wouldn't prevent anyway. That being said, it's definitely not a bad idea to varnish your stuff, and I do varnish all my 15mm stuff (with ArmyPainter matte).
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Oct 17, 2012 00:43
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krushgroove posted:Also, can someone measure their Screamers of Tzeentch? Length, width and thickness? I want to try molding some daemon stuff and they're one of the things I'd like to make for sure. Average tip of teeth to tip of tail 4" Length of main body tips to gums 1-1/2"(1.5) to 1-3/4"(1.75) Width 1-1/2"(1.5) to 1-5/8"(1.625) Thickness is about 0.5" thick. They are thin lil' guys. At most 1" if you include the tallest shark fin. 
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Oct 17, 2012 02:24
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will blow your mind.
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I don't varnish my models, but then again I don't play, so they mostly just sit there. Though I am slightly worried about when I eventually move. This weekend I dusted absolutely everything I have ever painted. Some of this poo poo has been un-dusted for like 8 plus years, sitting in the open. Hundreds of O&G, now nice and clean and bright.  I look forward to the day I have nice, wide glass curio with properly spaced shelves. And random stuff, now dust free:     
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Oct 17, 2012 02:36
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What would people recommend as the best games workshop varnish option?
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Oct 17, 2012 02:59
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None. Or spray them with deodorant. Why does it have to be GW? There is a reason everyone is posting about Testor's.
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Oct 17, 2012 03:13
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dishwasherlove posted:None. Or spray them with deodorant. Why does it have to be GW? There is a reason everyone is posting about Testor's. 
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Oct 17, 2012 03:26
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acetone
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Oct 17, 2012 03:28
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dishwasherlove posted:There is a reason everyone is posting about Testor's. Testors Dullcote is the best.
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Oct 17, 2012 03:29
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Feeple posted:Oh look. A Wargamer who doesn't know what deodorant is for. I find a roll-on better than spray. Easier application to the wet palette so I can thin it for superior results.
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Oct 17, 2012 03:36
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Feeple posted:Oh look. A Wargamer who doesn't know what deodorant is for. 
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Oct 17, 2012 04:00
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I use Army Painter matte varnish. Works pretty drat good.
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Oct 17, 2012 04:10
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Krylon Matte Finish is my jam http://www.krylon.com/products/matte_finish/ Hasn't failed me yet.
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Oct 17, 2012 04:18
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Luebbi posted:I've recently bought a can of GW spray varnish, but heard such horrible things about it that I've left it unopened so far, ready to return it to the store for something else. Did I just hear exaggerations, or is it really poo poo in a can? It's poo poo in a can, return it for something else.
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Oct 17, 2012 04:34
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Bachtere's post brings to mind a question, does anyone have preferred places they shop for display furniture?
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Oct 17, 2012 05:18
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While we're on a varnish kick, do you have to dilute varnish that you're spraying through an airbrush?
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Oct 17, 2012 05:22
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motoh posted:Bachtere's post brings to mind a question, does anyone have preferred places they shop for display furniture? My wife has been scouring antique shops for about a month now. We've found several that I would have purchased, but she didn't like. So try an old antique shop. Curio and glass-front china cabinets rule for minis.
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Oct 17, 2012 05:36
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Cheapest glass cabinet is from Ikea. http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/90182171/ Anything else is real furniture and costs money, chances are you might have to go custom for something that is good for minis.
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Oct 17, 2012 06:00
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Yes, the IKEA Detolf is the cheapest, but the problem is that the shelves are few and far apart for miniatures. I tried to remedy this by building my own shelves, half and full variants. Turned out pretty damned good actually.      
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Oct 17, 2012 06:20
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This is what we did for MSP's pair of Ikea cabinets. http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Customizing_a_Glass_Display_Case_by_AesSedai My stomach aches every time I open it just incase we didn't do it right and a glass panel falls and everything breaks. Has not happened but if we ever move it will be looked into. At our current place I bought a big Billy shelf with two doors and 2-3 extra shelves. Looking online I can't find the makeup, in store you can kinda make your own. I didn't buy the glass shelves and I regret it, but the price was cheaper for the wooden ones.
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Oct 17, 2012 07:31
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All this dullcoat talk has made me pop down to the hobby store and get some. I've been using a giant can of picture sealant to no ill effect, but experience shows me there's a usually a reason when a gaggle of fans crap on about the same thing over and over again.
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Oct 17, 2012 07:57
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I'm jealous of all you people with display cabinets, I don't have the room in my tiny flat for anything of the sort.  If we're talking varnish, I use Vallejo Game Color varnish, one coat of gloss then one coat of dull. Brush on, not spray. Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Oct 17, 2012 |
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Oct 17, 2012 09:24
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I bought a Billy bookcase from Ikea, then fitted two of their glass doors to it, and replaced the shelves with their glass shelves. Job done.
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Oct 17, 2012 10:02
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I was quite lucky, when we moved into our old house someone left a corner display cabinet. I recently had to relegate it into my study in order to decorate the nursery. Not that anyone besides you guys ever saw my models anyway vOv
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Oct 17, 2012 10:53
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Crowleraptor posted:What would people recommend as the best games workshop varnish option? Bad Munki posted:acetone  And seriously, only the old GW Matt Varnish in blue cans, from like 10 years ago. All recent GW "varnishes" are utter poo poo (yes, Purity Seal is poo poo, do NOT try it). Gravitas Shortfall posted:If we're talking varnish, I use Vajello Game Color varnish, one coat of gloss then one coat of dull. Brush on, not spray. And I'm now calling my VGC Vajello paints  VVV: Hmm, I might try it before I make the scenic base+army holder. I have a half can of this crap and no idea how to use it. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Oct 17, 2012 |
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Oct 17, 2012 11:19
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I think I heard that purity seal is foam-safe, so you could use it to undercoat your terrain before you prime it, I guess?
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Oct 17, 2012 11:32
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Pierzak posted:And I'm now calling my VGC Vajello paints Haha, whoops. 
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Oct 17, 2012 11:37
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OneTrueBru posted:Finished off those practice Fists from the other day: Gonna request a step-by-step on those Imperial Fists 
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Oct 17, 2012 13:47
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Tendales posted:I think I heard that purity seal is foam-safe, so you could use it to undercoat your terrain before you prime it, I guess? I'm not so sure. I believe it's the aerosol in primer that eats through most foam. I seal my foam with a watered down pva glue.
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Oct 17, 2012 15:28
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Flaky posted:Gonna request a step-by-step on those Imperial Fists The airbrush honestly does most of the work, all I need to do is make sure my highlights aren't utterly cack-handed, but here we go: I don't generally do things in strictly regimented fashion, so you can shuffle the steps around a fair bit. The paints listed are from Vallejo's Game Colour range, but the metallics and washes are Citadel's. 0. Strip old ebay paintjob, slice fingers to ribbons removing chunks of dried glue and inhale plenty of plastic dust filing off mold lines. - Airbrush. (leave the weapon and base for later, glue everything else) 1. Prime white/light grey 2. Basecoat Heavy Goldbrown 3. Vaguely-zenithial coats of Sun Yellow, just don't spray underneath the model generally, and make sure it's smooth and bright. - Basecoats + some washes. 1. Black basecoat, then Boltgun Metal for any silver bits. Wash 'em with BADABBLACK once dry. 2. Paint the armour ribbing, breather vent and the eyesockets black (or dark grey). 3. Charred Brown basecoat, then Burnished Gold for the gold bits. Wash 'em with Devlan Mud once dry. 4. Heavy Red for trim, purity seal wax and the aquila. 5. Beasty Brown was washed into the recesses and panel lines. Don't worry overmuch about little mistakes, the line highlight will likely cover them later. 6. Khaki basecoat for any parchment. 7. Imperial Blue coat for the eyes, leave a bit of black at the edges if possible. - Highlights. 1. Highlight the front of the eyes with Ultramarine Blue, draw a fine line around the bottom of the lenses with Wolf Grey. Do the little white reflection dot at the back. 2. Highlight the armour ribbing with Cold Grey. Wash black if it's too stark! 3. 1:1 Bonewhite:Sun Yellow line highlights for the armour. Any really prominent bits can be hit with pure Bonewhite. 4. Bloody Red for the red areas. Final highlight with Hot Orange. 5. Bonewhite highlights for the parchment, do some squiggles with a dark brown. Light wash with Devlan Mud, then edge highlight the paper with Off White. 6. Silver metallics received a Chainmail highlight. 7. Gold metallics were given a Burnished Gold highlight. - Finish up 1. Do the boltgun and base to your liking, and glue/pin them on. 2. 3. Varnish the bastard. ...and done. I've probably forgotten something, but hopefully this is at least somewhat useful. Squiggly Beast fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Oct 17, 2012 |
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Oct 17, 2012 16:40
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Ork Battlewagon, now with FULL MAGNET POWER      The front is fully magnetized to where you can switch out for the deffrolla or the ram, and the two orks in the back are similarly set up. The two guns on top didn't require anything more than a washer underneath to keep them balanced.
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Oct 17, 2012 17:23
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Khorne Berserker Rhino time!     
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Oct 17, 2012 17:32
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SRM posted:Khorne Berserker Rhino time! This is great. Did you use weathering pigments to add the faded brown around the tracks, or is it painted on?  My Dark Vengeance librarian, in-progress. He needs some work still, and some highlighting. Any other suggestions appreciated.
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Oct 17, 2012 17:50
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