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Aren't you concerned about your cat destroying it?
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Oct 18, 2012 15:15
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Cpt.Wacky posted:
Maple is a closed grain wood and does not take a stain well. Sorry bro.
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Oct 18, 2012 18:58
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MarshallX posted:No dovetails? Lazy.... Oh, man. He could put sliding dovetails around the inside instead of tongue and groove, then he wouldn't need glue at all, it would be like a wood puzzle. Dovetail everything!  Edit: And it needs some hidden compartments.
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Oct 18, 2012 21:21
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Does anyone here read Fine Woodworking? I am completely blown away by the cabinet on the back of this months issue.
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Oct 18, 2012 21:28
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Nice woodwork on the register. If you have any trouble with blotchting a spitcoat of shellac or a sanding sealer will help.
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Oct 18, 2012 21:48
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GEMorris posted:Maple is a closed grain wood and does not take a stain well. Sorry bro. Thanks, that makes sense. I've never dealt with stains before so it didn't occur to me. I'm learning a lot from this project. Maple is what I have so I'm going stick with it for now. I started working on a version with the angled louvers today. It's been a lot simpler to make. Here's the work in progress:  I think I'll do an inverted triangle piece for the center.
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Oct 18, 2012 22:10
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wormil posted:Nice woodwork on the register. If you have any trouble with blotchting a spitcoat of shellac or a sanding sealer will help. Benjamin Moore makes an alkyd based product that used to be called Neutral Blender, but now is just called wood conditioner that does the same thing.
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Oct 18, 2012 22:12
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You can also make your own conditioner. Thin the finish with mineral spirits. I had pretty good results with my heart pine floors by thinning waterlox by 2/3 (1 part waterlox, 2 parts mineral spirits) prior to staining.
dyne fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Oct 18, 2012 |
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Oct 18, 2012 23:27
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Well. Tomorrow I'm driving 10 hours to Pittsboro, NC to take a class at the Woodwright's School this Saturday and Sunday. I'm pretty excited. Hopefully I'll remember/have time to take some pictures. I really hope I don't spend all my money at the tool store upstairs, too.  Then we're going to spend Monday at Colonial Williamsburg since it's almost on the way home.
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Oct 19, 2012 02:44
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One Legged Ninja posted:Well. Tomorrow I'm driving 10 hours to Pittsboro, NC to take a class at the Woodwright's School this Saturday and Sunday. I'm pretty excited. Hopefully I'll remember/have time to take some pictures. I really hope I don't spend all my money at the tool store upstairs, too. Hella jealous. If I get a decent job any time soon I am definitely going to start doing this.
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Oct 19, 2012 03:27
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mds2 posted:Does anyone here read Fine Woodworking? I am completely blown away by the cabinet on the back of this months issue. No kidding, I glanced at it probably 10 times before I realized the door wasn't open.  
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Oct 19, 2012 03:37
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I was just looking at his website. silaskopf.com Amazing. I know nothing about intarsia or marquetry and I'm thinking I need to learn. For the people that dont read FWW there are also a dozen or so hidden drawers in the cabinet.
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Oct 19, 2012 03:54
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When I first saw it on the back cover, I thought the whole thing was a drawing because of the black binding. I read the text inside where they mentioned the door was a trapezoid and my mind kind of slipped a gear trying to figure out what they were talking about until it dawned on me that the door is not open. That is truly one of the most amazing pieces I've ever seen.
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Oct 19, 2012 05:28
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Thanks, that makes sense. I've never dealt with stains before so it didn't occur to me. I'm learning a lot from this project. Maple is what I have so I'm going stick with it for now. I mentioned sanding sealers since you already bought stain but at some point you may want to try aniline dye instead. And yeah, I believe all sealers are just thinned film finishes usually either varnish or shellac.
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Oct 19, 2012 05:33
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Was doing a little reading on finishes yesterday and happened across this article where drafting pencils are used to determine the hardness of various finishes. http://www.pencilpages.com/articles/simmons.htm I was a little surprised to see shellac at the bottom of the list (3B), well below oil/varnish mixtures (which I would expect to be near the bottom). While I'm on finishes I'll post this chart from an old issue of Fine Woodworking that summarizes a report by the Dept of Agriculture on Moisture Excluding Effectiveness of Finishes on Wood Surfaces. Link to study: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrp/fplrp462.pdf Basically the higher the number, the better the finish prevents moisture transfer. 
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Oct 19, 2012 18:17
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I'm interested in learning woodworking to create a dual monitor stand (specs in image gallery) with a 2.5" maximum clearance and a heavy duty office chair that will actually last more than a year. The latter project will probably require a lot of expertise, but the former project doesn't appear to be challenging. I've wishlisted several books on wood, woodworking fundamentals, and techniques. I also have most of the required tools, which I inherited from my engineer father. I'm just budgeting at this point, so I need to estimate the materials cost for the stand. How do I properly do that? What do I need to know about buying lumber for projects?
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Oct 20, 2012 05:43
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Adraeus posted:so I need to estimate the materials cost for the stand. How do I properly do that? What do I need to know about buying lumber for projects? Depends on what you are building the stand from... plywood or hardwood. Hardwood is sold by the board foot and usually rounded up. One board foot is 12x12x1 inches or 144 cubic inches. Thickness is measured in quarters, 4/4 = 1", 8/4 = 2", 6/4 = 1.5". It may come rough or S2S (surfaced 2 sides). Basically they plane the board for you so a 4/4 board will end up ~3/4 but they will still charge you for 4/4. Here is one hardwood dealer but prices will vary by region. http://www.walllumber.com/ Here is a board foot calculator. http://www.heartwoods.com/html/calculator.html Plywood of course is sold by the sheet. 4x8 feet is most common although cabinet grades also come in 5x5 feet. Dimensioned lumber is sold in specific sizes (e.g. 2x4x8 = 2"x4"x8'). Occasionally you will see hardwoods sold by the linear foot, usually at places like Home Depot. Beyond that you want to consider that some woods are more dimensionally stable than others, that is they will expand/contract less or are less prone to warping. Mahogany is a very stable wood. Before undertaking any complex project you'll want to learn about how and why lumber moves. Over the centuries woodworkers have learned to design projects in certain ways so they don't tear themselves apart because you can never fully stop expansion and contraction unless the wood is in a perfectly climate controlled space. That is why the grain always runs a particular way in any kind of box or cabinet (usually parallel with the longest side), because you don't want the length and width of a box changing over seasons but it's okay if the height changes. What books have you picked out? wormil fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Oct 20, 2012 |
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Oct 20, 2012 08:00
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wormil posted:What books have you picked out?
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Oct 20, 2012 08:53
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Adraeus posted:Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology This book goes way the hell above and beyond what you are trying to do. For that dual monitor stand, it would be the equivalent of buying the Machinery's Handbook to figure out how to put together something from Ikea. It is an excellent book, and I'd encourage you to buy it somewhere down the line, but there are better books to buy when you are first starting off. I'd put that one on the back burner and move The Complete Illustrated Guide to Joinery to the top of the list. Finishing is a huge part of woodworking, and I didn't see anything on your list about that. I have Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish by Bob Flexner. It is interesting and enjoyable to read. I learned a lot from it. There is also Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide To Finishing by Jeff Jewitt. I haven't read that one, but it is also highly recommended. Or you could just skip those books and spray paint your stuff. I haven't read that book you have on your list about workbenches, but if you are thinking of building your own bench, I cannot give a high enough recommendation for The Workbench Book by Scott Landis. It's not only my favorite woodworking book, but one of my favorite books overall. It doesn't have very many measured drawings or plans or anything like that, but it does give you a very comprehensive understanding of benches and their uses throughout history, different cultures, and different styles of woodworking. What type of vises would suit your style of work the best? Do you want a tail vise, face vise, leg vise, shoulder vise,one of those fancy patternmaker vises, or do you just want to use your foot as a vise? If you are thinking, "hrmm, I'm not really sure", then reading this book will get you sorted out.
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Oct 20, 2012 09:43
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SkunkDuster posted:This book goes way the hell above and beyond what you are trying to do. For that dual monitor stand, it would be the equivalent of buying the Machinery's Handbook to figure out how to put together something from Ikea. Okay, I added your suggestions and moved The Complete Illustrated Guide to Joinery and Understanding Wood Finishing to the top. I need a fundamentals book though. I've seen the term "joinery" over and over, but until your recommendation, I had no idea what that meant and/or inclination to search. I'm setting aside the workbench as a later complex project. I'll be able to work on an (expertly crafted) sawhorse in the meantime. Adraeus fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Oct 20, 2012 |
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Oct 20, 2012 12:52
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The Tage Frid books cover joinery, if you buy those you won't need any additional joinery books. (I think, it's been years since I read them but they are pretty comprehensive.) Between Frid and Flexner you will be ahead of many woodworkers knowledgewise.
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Oct 20, 2012 17:57
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I agree about Scott Landis' book being good. I've also read lots of good reviews on Chris Schwarz's Workbench book, and I'm a fan of his other works. I will say, though, that A Splintered History of Wood won't tell you much of anything about building things out of wood. It's still a great read, but I wouldn't be in a hurry to pick it up. It's more of a bathroom book than anything. In other news, I just got back from the first day of class at the Woodwright's School. It was pretty fun. We (well, most of us) got all the pieces cut out, and the mortise-and-tenons cut for our bow-saws. Tomorrow we'll shape all the fancy curves and fit it all together. I also perused the merchandise in the tool store upstairs. I hope my wallet doesn't float away tomorrow after I spend all my money. Racks upon racks of planes of every type. Saws from an 8" dovetail saw to a 30" 3-TPI panel saw. More corner chisels than I've ever seen combined. A table full of saw-sets. If you're within driving distance, and have a few free days, I highly recommend at least visiting, even if you don't take a class. I'll have a few pictures after I get back home.
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Oct 21, 2012 01:44
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I went ahead and purchased the Tage Frid and Flexner books. I'll get The Complete Manual of Woodworking later if I need more explanation, but four books should be enough for now.
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Oct 21, 2012 02:29
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I'm a fan of this book which can be picked up pretty cheap (used). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0823008665/ The Complete Woodworker's Companion by Roger Holmes You don't really need it since you have the Tage Frid series but Holmes teaches through a series of projects if you wanted to learn that way. He also covers everything from sharpening, hand tools, power tools, prepping rough stock, etc.
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Oct 21, 2012 04:39
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I've done some relatively big and simple things with wood, made a table and a desk, a bunch of shelves, etc. What I would like to do is carve something relatively easy, simple raised geometric shapes and then paint it. A bit of research shows that getting some soft pine, tracing the things I want, then carving it out with some small chisels is the best way to do this. Will soft pine paint nicely, or should I choose another wood? Will a cheap set of chisels from Canadian Tyre be alright for this?
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Oct 24, 2012 21:05
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As long as the chisels are sharp, they will work fine. You can sharpen any chisel, but cheap ones will become dull quickly. Pine is soft and easy to work, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Irwin Marples chisel sets are common in the US, and run about $20 for a small set. They are pretty decent for the price. I don't know if they are common across the border, though. I think pine paints up nicely, but hopefully someone with real experience can tell you what's up.
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Oct 24, 2012 21:53
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I'm going to be building an outdoor arbor soon and thinking about wood species to use. Being in Northern California, redwood is popular. There's also of course PT doug fir (not too excited about this option). Then there's exotics like ipe. What would you guys use Side question: What kind of traditional joinery would be used to attach a tabletop to an apron? (no screws) dwoloz fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Oct 26, 2012 |
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Oct 24, 2012 22:27
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If there was going to be something growing on the arbor then I'd go with pressure-treated whatever for durability since the plant will eventually cover up most of the wood. Otherwise I've seen some nice clear cedar used outdoors. Screws have been around for a really long time, but Fine Woodworking has an article on using sliding dovetail cleats that might work for you. I found it by googling "sliding dovetail tabletop".
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Oct 26, 2012 22:40
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Hey guys, just a beginner here looking to get into it as a pass time. Was hoping I could get some advice on starting for someone basically going into it blind, and being on a relatively restrictive budget, for a little while at least. Also, could anyone recommend some good books or websites?
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Oct 28, 2012 20:32
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Turbo Impotence posted:Hey guys, just a beginner here looking to get into it as a pass time. Was hoping I could get some advice on starting for someone basically going into it blind, and being on a relatively restrictive budget, for a little while at least. I love this guy, his videos are informative and entertaining: http://www.woodworkingformeremortals.com/ As someone who just got into the hobby as well, I started with an idea. Find something you want to build, plan it out, have it all designed the way you want, then research what tools you will need to make it happen. For me it started when I promised my girlfriend I would build her a jewelery box, and I started with a quick sketch. From there I used Solidworks ( I'm an engineering student  ) to make a model of it.I think the most important thing is to really plan everything out before you cut a single piece of wood and resist the temptation to just grab a saw and figure it out as you go.
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Oct 28, 2012 20:54
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Super Waffle posted:I think the most important thing is to really plan everything out before you cut a single piece of wood and resist the temptation to just grab a saw and figure it out as you go. On a side note, this is actually the best way to go for beginning lathe work.
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Oct 28, 2012 23:58
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Honestly I would do more woodworking if I bothered to plan more. Too often though I just jump in then spend a bunch of time figuring it out as I go, which is odd as I'm the exact opposite in everything else. Anyone here built a Morris chair or arm chair? I'm thinking of making one. I also saw a Stickly cube chair that is kinda ugly but I can't get it out of my head.
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Oct 29, 2012 01:21
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wormil posted:Honestly I would do more woodworking if I bothered to plan more. Too often though I just jump in then spend a bunch of time figuring it out as I go, which is odd as I'm the exact opposite in everything else. I really want to make a Morris chair. I've seen those cube chairs before but I didn't realize they were a Stickley design. Seems like the main thing for either one is to have a good system for doing mortise and tenons figured out.
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Oct 29, 2012 01:44
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Elston Gunn posted:I really want to make a Morris chair. I've seen those cube chairs before but I didn't realize they were a Stickley design. Seems like the main thing for either one is to have a good system for doing mortise and tenons figured out. What I've seen done with slats on the sides is they route or dado a channel the length of the arm then use small spacers glued in place between the slats. Much easier than cutting a shitload of mortises. Here is a Stickley cube chair from an auction house.  Modern reproduction  Rocker variation which I like  Modern variation. I'm tempted to make one of these for the  factor.
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Oct 29, 2012 05:11
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So, I've been recruited to do two projects this winter. One is an outdoor manger for my mother's nativity. I'm guessing a basic lean-to structure with 1/4" ply on the outside and framed with pine 2"x4"s but I'm not sure what I'll have to do to make it survive in the snow and ice. Any ideas there? Then I have a friend coming over next Saturday to talk to me about building a life size Dalek that he bought plans for. That should be awesome.
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Oct 29, 2012 13:00
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Nice article on Nick Offerman and his woodworking shop: http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/5008153 "I've discovered my vice, and my vice is buying pieces of trees."
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Oct 29, 2012 19:04
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wormil posted:Honestly I would do more woodworking if I bothered to plan more. Too often though I just jump in then spend a bunch of time figuring it out as I go, which is odd as I'm the exact opposite in everything else. I made two out of Cedar earlier in the thread, very satisfying to make and comfortable to sit in. Might be too simple for an indoor chair though (Mainly the back)
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Oct 29, 2012 19:38
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Well I finally put that Black Walnut to use that I milled this summer. Ran it through the planer, took it down to about 3/4 before I managed to get rid of every blade mark, which is the thickness I was planning on anyways. I didn't take any in-progress shots, but here is the finished product. It's a stereo cabinet! I made it custom for my equipment, but I'm sure most stereo receivers and turntables would fit in it without a problem. The speakers are more of an issue, but given how easy it is to make a microbe set, I'm not worried. The whole thing.  (the two bookshelf speakers are only there temporarily, as I plan to make matching stands for them) Turbtable is a temp as well. I'm waiting for a cover for my Dual 510  The dovetails are half blind, and I did them with my Porter Cable jig. It's amazing how easy they are to make, but I'm limited to 12" workpieces. Although this allowed me to get a little creative with the design by having alternating dovetails.  I really can't praise google sketup enough, as I had every measurement down before I even planed my first board, and I'm positive it saved me a lot of wasted wood. The logs that this all came from were not very big, so my widest board was only a tad over 6". When my dad and I were sawing these and piling them up I was pretty disappointed how "non-walnut-like" they looked. The wood looked almost like pine or spruce in some areas, and only the very center had that walnuty-purple hue. I went back two months later after they had dried, and was shocked to see that they had darkened up quite a bit and looked a lot more like the walnut I was hoping for. I also didn't know that the logs are supposed to be painted at the ends as soon as you chop down the tree, as this will help prevent splitting which will eat into the length of the boards you get. If there is one thing this project has taught me, it's that you can never have too many clamps.
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Oct 30, 2012 23:47
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Blistex posted:If there is one thing this project has taught me, it's that you can never have too many clamps.
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Oct 30, 2012 23:53
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Blistex posted:Well I finally put that Black Walnut to use that I milled this summer. Ran it through the planer, took it down to about 3/4 before I managed to get rid of every blade mark, which is the thickness I was planning on anyways. I didn't take any in-progress shots, but here is the finished product. Looks great. Did you assemble the alternating dovetail joints separately and then glue them up?
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Oct 31, 2012 00:49
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