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taels posted:I rock a Filco majest2 (non 10-less dont believe the hype.) my only grime being that for the particular model with cherry blues i waited forever for restock, and then it was only available in camo... but after heavy use and some testing of other more trendy/popular/newer mech keyboards, I won't consider anything but cherry blues after my first experience with them; via a first run rosewill RK-9000. I have no idea why but this post is beautiful in it's strangeness. But yeah, Filco Majestouch with MX Blues is the tits.
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# ? Oct 19, 2012 08:37 |
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# ? May 22, 2024 22:26 |
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Rocking a Steelseries Merc Stealth. I was unsure of the left hand game pad when I bought it, but hey it was on sale for 79$. Not sure how I could ever live without it now.
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# ? Oct 20, 2012 04:28 |
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letgomyAgo posted:Rocking a Steelseries Merc Stealth. I was unsure of the left hand game pad when I bought it, but hey it was on sale for 79$. Not sure how I could ever live without it now. Kind of similar to a nostromo. So if it ever dies, something like that? I have a regular mech keyboard and nostromo, the angled hand rest is so much better than even a gel wrist rest IMO. Very worthwhile if you game a lot and put in the time to configure it.
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# ? Oct 20, 2012 16:05 |
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Does anybody know of a store I could go to try a mechanical keyboard first? My local best buy doesn't sell any I think.
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# ? Oct 20, 2012 20:50 |
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Recently got this imported via a friend from Korea. In Cherry MX Browns, which I plan to mod to the modded ("ergo") clears. Once I modded the cherry stabilizers to be not mushy, I can't find a flaw in this board. It comes with a cute cable routing system on the underside, And the entire thing is made of PBT, caps, case and all.
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# ? Oct 20, 2012 23:47 |
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Xeom posted:Does anybody know of a store I could go to try a mechanical keyboard first? Maybe check recycling centers or thrift shops or schools/universities and hunt for a IBM model M, if you are lucky you might be able to go home with a functional one for almost nothing.
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# ? Oct 21, 2012 00:40 |
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I've been using a Unicomp at home for years but I got work to spring for a Realforce keyboard for me. It is like typing on a cloud, in heaven, and despite being $275 I HAVE to get one for home now. I -need- it.
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# ? Oct 21, 2012 00:53 |
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"Kibibit" posted:Once I modded the cherry stabilizers to be not mushy, I can't find a flaw in this board. It comes with a cute cable routing system on the underside, And the entire thing is made of PBT, caps, case and all. What stabilizer mod?
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# ? Oct 21, 2012 02:42 |
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Moey posted:What stabilizer mod? I'm interested in this as well. I recently got a CM Storm Trigger since I heard it was made by Costar (like the Rapid, and unlike the Pro), but lo and behold it has Cherry stabilizers. It's the only thing I dislike about this keyboard, everything else is pretty much perfect for me.
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# ? Oct 21, 2012 02:45 |
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sethsez posted:I'm interested in this as well. I recently got a CM Storm Trigger since I heard it was made by Costar (like the Rapid, and unlike the Pro), but lo and behold it has Cherry stabilizers. It's the only thing I dislike about this keyboard, everything else is pretty much perfect for me. I'll hunt down the other info once I find it again. Xeom posted:Does anybody know of a store I could go to try a mechanical keyboard first? Kibibit fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Oct 21, 2012 |
# ? Oct 21, 2012 04:46 |
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Kibibit posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6hPoe3srcw Wow, that doesn't look difficult at all. The only issue seems to be actually getting to the stabilizers themselves. Interested to see more if you can find it.
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# ? Oct 21, 2012 05:00 |
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I've really had a none-too-great experience with a Steel Series keyboard equipped MSI laptop. Basically a couple keys came right off within a few weeks after normal day to day use. The thing is I'm overseas atm and that kind of rules out an RMA due to shipping+taxes. So I was wondering, does someone out there have suggestions with regards to ordering keys? Are there third party suppliers, and are keyboard keys even "standardized" in such a way that you can specify the particular key type to a third-party seller? Neither MSI or Steelseries tech support have been helpful, I just get bounced around between staff. Ought Six fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Oct 21, 2012 |
# ? Oct 21, 2012 07:55 |
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sethsez posted:Wow, that doesn't look difficult at all. The only issue seems to be actually getting to the stabilizers themselves. Interested to see more if you can find it. Here's the guide I used. As a note, some things not mentioned in the OP of that thread are that it does indeed work on Plate mounted cherry stabilizers (as I've done it to my own), and that you only need to desolder the switch the stabilizers are on to remove the stabilizers. Some people (including myself) didn't realize you didn't need to desolder the board to remove them until told otherwise.
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# ? Oct 21, 2012 10:17 |
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Can a DAS Keyboard be partially submerged for a clean in the kitchen sink? Or at the very least wet from washcloths? Canned air does wonders but there's a bit of various bits of stuck debris under the keys.
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# ? Oct 22, 2012 18:14 |
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Avocados posted:Can a DAS Keyboard be partially submerged for a clean in the kitchen sink? Or at the very least wet from washcloths? Canned air does wonders but there's a bit of various bits of stuck debris under the keys. You can pull the keys off with a key cap puller without any issues. Using anything else could mar the keys or break the switch stems so be careful (no screwdrivers). There's two kinds of keycap pullers, the wire kind that looks like this: and the plastic kind that looks like this: When using them you need to be careful. Basically the wire ones are slower to use but can be used on larger keys (put the wires on the side then turn so they grab the corners), while the plastic ones are faster but just for popping off the single key sized keys (push them down to lock, pull them up, then slide the key out from the side so you don't damage the bottom). The only thing you need to watch out for is if the keycaps are on very tight you may need to wiggle them a little bit, just pulling hard could tear the stem out of the switch. I've got a wire puller from an old omnikey board and two plastic ones (one came with the cm storm quickfire rapid, and one came with some keycaps I bought on ebay). I use both kinds. If you want to buy a premade one, signature plastics has the plastic ones: http://keycapsdirect.com/marketplace.php and cyberguys has the wire ones: http://www.cyberguys.com/product-details/?productid=40278 WASDKeyboards has both: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-accessories-2.html There are other sellers as well, those are just the first ones that came to mind since I've bought stuff from all of them. If you're not looking to spend money there's a few posts about making your own on deskthority as well as other sites. Some involve bending wire, some involve loops of string; but the main point is just not to pry them up.
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# ? Oct 22, 2012 19:43 |
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Kibibit posted:Recently got this imported via a friend from Korea. In Cherry MX Browns, which I plan to mod to the modded ("ergo") clears. how would you compare filco/leo boards? age old question but ive only ever played around with one leo ever (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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# ? Oct 22, 2012 22:06 |
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taels posted:how would you compare filco/leo boards? age old question but ive only ever played around with one leo ever Most of that $30 difference is under the board. The PCBs of the Filco boards is better than the FC200r and slightly worse than the FC700r's. Filco uses a standard spacebar size, so replacing the spacebar is easy on Filcos, whereas hunting down Leopold compatible spacebars is a nightmare. Filcos are more reliable and less prone to the occasional bugginess of the Leopold, probably related to the fact that the Leopold is ~20 key rollover over usb, whereas the Filco is the standard 6 key rollover. As an aside, the keycaps on the newest Leopold blow the caps of the Filco out of the water. Better material, better feel, better sound and so forth. I wouldn't be surprised if the next Filco model followed suit.
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# ? Oct 23, 2012 15:06 |
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Rosewill blue & red switch keyboards have a 20% off promo code through Newegg until tomorrow: http://www.newegg.com/Rosewill-Keyboards/BrandSubCat/ID-2177-63 Just picked up one with blue switches. In addition to the 20% discount, you also get a free laser mouse with weights. Not a bad deal.
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# ? Oct 25, 2012 18:39 |
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Avocados posted:Can a DAS Keyboard be partially submerged for a clean in the kitchen sink? Or at the very least wet from washcloths? Canned air does wonders but there's a bit of various bits of stuck debris under the keys. My Das Keyboard had enough spills on it that it was basically unfixable. You can't really take off the spacebar (and other large keys) so I figured I'd replace the whole thing. In a last ditch effort to fix it, I put the entire thing in the sink on full blast and let it sit in there a while. I swooshed it around trying to get any remaining stuff out of there and let it dry for a day. Bam, good as new. Who knows. Maybe I was lucky, but it didn't seem to cause any problems whatsoever.
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# ? Oct 25, 2012 19:11 |
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ScumTricycle posted:My Das Keyboard had enough spills on it that it was basically unfixable. You can't really take off the spacebar (and other large keys) so I figured I'd replace the whole thing. In a last ditch effort to fix it, I put the entire thing in the sink on full blast and let it sit in there a while. I swooshed it around trying to get any remaining stuff out of there and let it dry for a day. Bam, good as new. Yeah I submerged mine in some isopropyl alcohol and I basically degreased the switches which didn't end up too good. So don't do what I did.
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# ? Oct 25, 2012 19:25 |
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Kibibit posted:Depends on how deep you want to dig. Overall, they're directly comparable boards with different little features. Filco has costar stabilizers, while Leopold has cherry stabilizers. Filco has a set cable while Leopold's is detachable. Leopold has lock lights on the key, as opposed to the separate lights of the filco. And the last noticable difference is the leopold FC200r is rounder than Filco, while the FC700r is sharper. Otherwise, they play out identically.
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# ? Oct 26, 2012 00:25 |
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taels posted:i'm mostly interested in the performance of cherry produced stabilizers. and real opinions/observations?
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# ? Oct 26, 2012 02:47 |
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I only have a wasd (costar built) so I can't comment on the differences, but I often read costar stabilisers are preferred
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# ? Oct 26, 2012 13:58 |
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edit: huh, double post
HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Oct 26, 2012 |
# ? Oct 26, 2012 13:58 |
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HalloKitty posted:I only have a wasd (costar built) so I can't comment on the differences, but I often read costar stabilisers are preferred
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# ? Oct 26, 2012 16:18 |
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Kibibit posted:There are definitely people who prefer cherry stabilizers. And since the nature of mechanical keyboards is that features are literally everything, sometimes people are ambivalent enough about the stabilizer feel that the other features take priority. I don't quite understand what you mean here by "features." The vast majority of mechanical keyboards have zero non-standard keyboard features beyond really basic stuff like layout, switch type, and NKRO.
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# ? Oct 26, 2012 16:22 |
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Cream_Filling posted:I don't quite understand what you mean here by "features." You're right that mechanicals are rarely considered to have special features, but there are a few. I wouldn't have bought a keyboard with windows keys without the ability to disable them, which was a big selling point for the CM Storm Quickfire for me. Since more major peripheral manufacturers are making mech keyboards now there seem to be a lot more with media keys and varying backlighting (although the CM keyboard with half backlighting still makes no sense to me).
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# ? Oct 26, 2012 17:59 |
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Rexxed posted:You're right that mechanicals are rarely considered to have special features, but there are a few. I wouldn't have bought a keyboard with windows keys without the ability to disable them, which was a big selling point for the CM Storm Quickfire for me. Since more major peripheral manufacturers are making mech keyboards now there seem to be a lot more with media keys and varying backlighting (although the CM keyboard with half backlighting still makes no sense to me). Dunno, I mean it's fine to speak personally and say 'features are everything,' but more generally speaking, I'd say that the mechanical keyboards market is marked by its lack of reliance on features, and focus on key characteristics like switch type and layout as well as semi-intangibles like build quality. A Das vs. Filco vs. Leopold vs. Unicomp is pretty much equal in terms of features, and it's all down to the specifics of construction and the like. This is distinguished from regular keyboards which, except for oddballs like the Apple keyboards, are sold pretty much entirely on features and aesthetics, since one membrane keyboard is pretty much the same as another to actually type on.
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# ? Oct 26, 2012 18:04 |
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I'm not sure that's correct. There's loads of Cherry keyboards out there, PCB-mount ordeals that give you the switch tech at the lowest price, there's ALPS that give you less of a clack but are still durable, and there's nice buckling spring keyboards that to me have the best typing quality and the tiers existing within that are IBM/Lexmark/Unicomp. Then there's the capacitive silicone domes in Topres that are nice but there's no point in buying them unless you get the HHKB layout. I'm not totally experienced in Cherry-switch keyboards (I'm familiar with the switches themselves) but I know Leupolds are really nice along with Cherry-made POS keyboards. The switch isn't the sole motivator for a keyboard purchase. Look at build quality. That's why there's idiots who focus on processor clock rates and cores when they can get a Mac and actually be happy with what they have.
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# ? Oct 27, 2012 18:22 |
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Cream_Filling posted:focus on key characteristics like switch type and layout as well as semi-intangibles like build quality. sports posted:The switch isn't the sole motivator for a keyboard purchase. Look at build quality. I'm confused, what you are disagreeing with?
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# ? Oct 27, 2012 18:53 |
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Will there ever be a tenkeyless with a trackpoint? I'm about ready to buy a Unicomp Endura Pro and take a hacksaw to it.
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# ? Oct 28, 2012 04:52 |
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If you don't need it to be mechanical, then Lenovo had a travel Trackpoint keyboard.
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# ? Oct 28, 2012 14:33 |
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Fermented Tinal posted:Will there ever be a tenkeyless with a trackpoint? Only problem is that the trackpoint on the unicomps are sub-par and down a button compared to the latest version from lenovo. I have seen some interesting hack-jobs on geekhack, though, where they cram a lenovo laptop trackpoint into a cherry keyboard. OXBALLS DOT COM fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Oct 28, 2012 |
# ? Oct 28, 2012 14:43 |
I have this keyboard, , and this keyboard, , but I could just have this keyboard. Do yourself a favor and buy this keyboard. agarjogger fucked around with this message at 12:40 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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# ? Oct 29, 2012 11:17 |
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Next up to bat:code:
More... Imagine what this thing is going to do to the see through key cap market. It's by CM if you can't tell by the little logo at the top of the num pad. DinosaurHouseParty fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Oct 30, 2012 |
# ? Oct 29, 2012 23:24 |
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Question about the HHKB2 or Topre 87U: are they generally quieter than something like a Leopold with MX Browns? The reason I ask is because I'm now working in an open concept space, and I tend to be more than a little aggressive with my typing, especially when I have a good coding flow. On one occasion, the noise coming from my board was enough that two co-workers staged an "intervention."
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# ? Oct 30, 2012 01:12 |
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krooj posted:Question about the HHKB2 or Topre 87U: are they generally quieter than something like a Leopold with MX Browns? The reason I ask is because I'm now working in an open concept space, and I tend to be more than a little aggressive with my typing, especially when I have a good coding flow. On one occasion, the noise coming from my board was enough that two co-workers staged an "intervention." I initially bought my HHKB2 with the intent of using it as my main keyboard, but there was one thing... That I didn't realize this... I thought I could adapt. I TRIED to adapt, but I just can't. I could not play an FPS without my crouch being the bottom left most button, and I'd constantly whiff on it even after remapping all other keyboards Caps:: Ctrl on AHK. I now use it on my HTPC in the living room when I have to type something that I'd rather not do on a tiny keyboard, but it was a let down in that respect. In a more direct answer to your question, it's pretty quiet. Doesn't make anywhere near the amount of noise that my Cherry Red switches make, much less the browns.
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# ? Oct 30, 2012 23:22 |
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foiled by the HHKB Lite.... krooj fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Oct 31, 2012 |
# ? Oct 31, 2012 00:06 |
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Well, the cool thing about Topre keyboards is there's very little bottoming noise. So, even with super quiet switches like MX reds, which are quiet for mechs, but still loud, the realforce is quieter. I've never owned browns, but I've owned pretty much everything else.. Blue, red, black, white (milk), clear, topres... The closest I would compare topre to is a membrane keyboard. The silent topres are quieter than regular membrane boards. Hope that helps.
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# ? Oct 31, 2012 07:01 |
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# ? May 22, 2024 22:26 |
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sethsez posted:I'm interested in this as well. I recently got a CM Storm Trigger since I heard it was made by Costar (like the Rapid, and unlike the Pro), but lo and behold it has Cherry stabilizers. It's the only thing I dislike about this keyboard, everything else is pretty much perfect for me. I am looking at the CM Storm Trigger too. It looks good without being too much and it has different switch types. How well does the macro buttons work? Can you specify timing related to the key presses? Would you buy it again?
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# ? Nov 1, 2012 10:02 |