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Leperflesh posted:(be careful that you do not open it when hot, because the contents can suddenly boil as the pressure is released and you can be covered with scalding hot fluds loaded with surfactants to improve the fluid's ability to transfer heat into your flesh!) Ask me how I know how this feels. Do as this man says. E: goddamnit how do I always get the top of the page
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Oct 23, 2012 06:58
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 23:34 |
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I really hate that method of burping engines, as the sudden addition of scalding hot steam to the radiator when the thermostat opens makes adding coolant extremely difficult. Plus, you're breathing lots of that toxic crap and spilling it everywhere!
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Oct 23, 2012 07:12
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totalnewbie posted:Post pictures. Engine looks like this:   I can take some pictures of the plugs when I get home. I don't know how many miles are on the plugs, not my car, but I'm guessing a lot. We did put in new ones, though, to no avail.
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Oct 23, 2012 07:22
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I bought a Scion Xa and the thing has some ridiculous wheel gap I'd like to fix. It currently has 185/60/15s on it. I guess I need to lower it, but have never done anything like that. How would I go about finding a shop that does this (Google has failed me so far, I'm in San Diego)? Do I need to find a suspension shop? Should I buy my own parts and bring them in? What should I be expecting to pay out the door including parts?
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Oct 23, 2012 07:44
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Hashal posted:I bought a Scion Xa and the thing has some ridiculous wheel gap I'd like to fix. It currently has 185/60/15s on it. I guess I need to lower it, but have never done anything like that. How would I go about finding a shop that does this (Google has failed me so far, I'm in San Diego)? Do I need to find a suspension shop? Should I buy my own parts and bring them in? What should I be expecting to pay out the door including parts? Depending on how low you want to go either a set of lowering springs or coilovers. A set of springs will be ~$100-150 but you'll also want to replace the shocks/struts while you're in there, so you'll probably be looking at an additional $150-200 for a set of budget OE replacements (more if you want performance parts.) Coilovers are at the far end of the spectrum and will be upwards of $1000 or more, but are adjustable so you're not stuck with a X inch drop like you will with lowering springs. I'd call around for quotes as shop prices vary wildly state to state (I'd guess you'll probably pay more living in the city.) In addition to installation you'll need an alignment, I'd probably budget at least another $400 (ballpark) for install and alignment.
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Oct 23, 2012 09:35
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Leperflesh posted:Try "burping" your radiator. I'll give that a try. It's due for a flush and fill, would that process fix a trapped bubble? I bought the pre mixed 50/50, so I'm good there. Drove to work, and managed to keep it on the center line.
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Oct 23, 2012 12:54
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Any recommendations on sound deadeners? Dynamat alternatives for the MG I'm restoring? It's a completely stripped and painted shell, so I don't have ANY deadening bitumen. All the googling I've done just turn up old guys championing whatever one product they've tried, and a lot of snakeoil-feeling claims. I'm also concerned that whatever I choose not trap water, being a leaky old roadster.
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Oct 23, 2012 16:29
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bolind posted:Engine looks like this: Heh yeah, I just meant of the plugs since you wete questioning them.
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Oct 23, 2012 16:47
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eddiewalker posted:Any recommendations on sound deadeners? Dynamat alternatives for the MG I'm restoring? It's a completely stripped and painted shell, so I don't have ANY deadening bitumen. Dynamat or similar wherever you can get it, then cover with Lizard Skin or other sound quality deadening spray. I really don't think any stand out as being so much better than another type. Most of the quality sprays can be top coated, which I suggest you do to make sure it's waterproof. But nothing deadends sound nearly as well as thick carpet and carpet backer. So if that's in the plans, don't go cheap....get the nice plush stuff.
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Oct 23, 2012 17:13
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I clicked on someone's probation reason, then it took me to PFY. I just saw a bunch of boobies and for some reason, feet. Am I gonna die, or do I just need a system flush?
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Oct 23, 2012 19:27
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What color were the boobies? This is important.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:44
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I believe they were between a 1974 and 1985 Caucasian. I can't be sure of the make or model.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:45
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Check the trim.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:53
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Splizwarf posted:Check the trim. It's certainly aftermarket. The panels don't even fit right.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:55
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If it's a tasteful piercing or modest cup size enlargement there's nothing wrong with aftermarket boobies. I am not a fan of graphics, however. Often the livery obscures the OEM body lines. You should be okay with just a fluid flush 
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Oct 23, 2012 20:05
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I fuckin' love AI.
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Oct 23, 2012 20:37
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My buddy has a 1994 Dodge Dakota V6 that won't start. He says when he turns the key it clicks but if he tries it will eventually start. I'm guessing bad alternator or solenoid. On these vehicles is the solenoid in the starter? My thoughts on how to fix it: Check the battery Do an AVR test and see if the starter is drawing more than 300. Replace starter? Any advice?
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Oct 23, 2012 21:15
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Where does the click come from? IIRC the Magnum (3.9, 5.2, 5.9) starters do have a solenoid built in, which is controlled by a relay in the underhood fuse/relay panel. Depending on where the clicking comes from it could be either the relay or the solenoid. Tell him to try whacking the starter with a rubber mallet or chunk of 2x4, if it starts, he needs to buy a new starter or new solenoid in the near future, preferably before it strands him.
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Oct 23, 2012 21:21
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If it's clicking, the solenoid is probably functioning. I've only heard clicking when the battery is dead.
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Oct 23, 2012 21:54
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Can anybody in the San Diego or El Cajon area recommend a local mechanic for pre-purchase inspections? I'm looking to buy from a guy in Lakeside, but want to get the vehicle checked out before I make the drive down to see it myself (and he's agreed to take it to a place of my choosing.)
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Oct 23, 2012 21:56
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Got a weird one. '89 Volvo 740, sometimes when the key is turned there's a couple seconds of delay before the starter fires. turn key absolutely nothing ... go go go everything works I'm familiar (so so familiar) with dead/dying batteries but everything roars right to life after the delay; no weak chime, no weak starter, etc. Occasionally, it won't start at all. When this happens, the battery has a decent charge (around 12.5-ish, which should more than enough in 60F weather for an NA I4) and if I just stand around and swear about it (seems like 90 seconds minimum needed), it'll fire right up without the delay when I try it again. I've had this problem with a jump box on it, too. I hate stuff like this, intermittent problems = worst problems. The only things I can think of is maybe the ignition contact is moving around a little (making the timing of events irrelevant information), or maybe the starter relay's crapping out in a weird way.
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Oct 23, 2012 22:14
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EightBit posted:I really hate that method of burping engines, as the sudden addition of scalding hot steam to the radiator when the thermostat opens makes adding coolant extremely difficult. Plus, you're breathing lots of that toxic crap and spilling it everywhere! Hence the very clear instruction to do this when the engine is cold. Antifreeze has lots of ethylene glycol in it, which is moderately toxic. It has a sweet taste which can tempt animals and children to drink it, so you have to treat it carefully. However you can also get antifreeze that uses propylene glycol instead. Propylene glycol is still not awesome to drink gallons of, but it's actually used as a food additive in both human and dog food, and they use it as airplane de-icer and for cleaning up oil spills. It's pretty safe stuff to work with. Of course, in either case there's other stuff in there: corrosion inhibitors, surfactants, pH buffering agents, lubricants, and so on, and probably some of those are not good to inhale or drink. But if you wait till the engine is cold, opening the radiator is perfectly safe and you won't spray the stuff anywhere. SeeYouEnTee posted:I'll give that a try. It's due for a flush and fill, would that process fix a trapped bubble? I bought the pre mixed 50/50, so I'm good there. Drove to work, and managed to keep it on the center line. If you're about to have a flush done, get that done first and then see if it still needs to be burped. A "fill" just means topping off the overflow tank, which you should do yourself, but the flush might mean emptying and refilling, or it might mean a power flush (pressurized coolant or water + detergent or something forced through the cooling lines). A power flush might well serve to force air pockets out... but could also introduce them.
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Oct 23, 2012 22:28
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Splizwarf posted:Got a weird one. '89 Volvo 740, sometimes when the key is turned there's a couple seconds of delay before the starter fires. Yeah I was gonna say, sounds like maybe the relay is gummed up or something so that it takes a second to close once it's energized. Try having someone turn the key while you feel the relay and see if clicks immediately.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:02
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Tadhg posted:Can anybody in the San Diego or El Cajon area recommend a local mechanic for pre-purchase inspections? I'm looking to buy from a guy in Lakeside, but want to get the vehicle checked out before I make the drive down to see it myself (and he's agreed to take it to a place of my choosing.) DRW Transmission in Santee. 10728 Kenney St. Suite B Santee, CA 92071 619)258-4240 Tell them Dustin sent you. It's owned by my girlfriend's Uncle. I take all my vehicles there.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:31
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Hashal posted:DRW Transmission in Santee. These guys look pretty great, actually. Thanks for the recommendation!
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Oct 24, 2012 00:46
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I read a post in here a little while ago, can't remember which thread, where someone wrote a little breakdown about how to go about diagnosing suspension clunks or rattles that was really good and succinct. It went something like check the bushings, then insert a prybar between the components and check for play, etc. If anyone remembers where that post was could you link it, or if you happen to have that knowledge at the front of your brain write it out for me. Thanks alot.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:34
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You have to run the engine to temp to burp it, and when it reaches that temperature, the hot coolant that comes out will boil and spray steam out of the open radiator cap.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:35
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EightBit posted:the hot coolant that comes out will boil and spray steam out of the open radiator cap. Boil? You have a serious issue if your stat isn't opening until 212F on pretty much any motor I can think of. What you want is the stat open so the coolant can circulate. Keep it full (using a fancy funnel for the purpose or just an open rad) as the bubbles come out after the stat opens. Put the pressure cap back on before you shut the car off. On most things it's just that easy. Others need more specific handling.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:52
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Motronic posted:Boil? You have a serious issue if your stat isn't opening until 212F on pretty much any motor I can think of. Jeep 4.0, the thermostat opens at 195, which will have plenty of hot angry coolant blowing out the cap when you burp it after a flush.
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Oct 24, 2012 02:51
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Does anyone have recommendation on custom-fit car covers? I'm getting ready to put the BMW up for the winter, so I started researching covers. I wasn't really prepared to find that there's a loving ton of options, and some of them are getting into the $400+ range.  I was planning on spending about $100 give or take, but after looking around, I think I may want to drop a bit more on something that may offer better protection than what I can get at my original price point.For example, is something like the Covercraft Noah (about $240) worth the extra $$$ over this $99 7 layer cover on Ebay? Ideally I'm looking for something like the Weathershield HD but at $450+ for a cover, gently caress that. This cover will be used exclusively for outdoor winter storage, so I need something that'll keep water out (as much as possible anyway) plus durability and snow / ice protection. What do you all use? Any recommendations, or particular ones to avoid?
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Oct 24, 2012 03:03
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Leperflesh posted:Hence the very clear instruction to do this when the engine is cold. Antifreeze has lots of ethylene glycol in it, which is moderately toxic. It has a sweet taste which can tempt animals and children to drink it, so you have to treat it carefully. I flushed it myself, ended up with about 1 1/2 gallons of antifreeze, sprayed the rest out as I couldn't find (or there isn't) the block drain plug. Issue still persists, I'm leaning towards a bad thermostat, though there is some squealing which may indicate a water pump the book says. It seems like I'm only running on 3 cylinders now as well, very rough idle, about 500rpm, and very little power when driving. No smoke of any kind, no bubbles in the radiator, I hope to Cthulu it's not a headgasket. Next step? Take it to someone who knows what they're doing. Thank you all for the help.
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Oct 24, 2012 03:16
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1993 Del Sol SI How much current draw should be measured when the car is turned off? I assume there will be a tiny amount from the clock and maybe the stereo and OBD.
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Oct 24, 2012 03:37
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SkunkDuster posted:1993 Del Sol SI Under 50mA probably. Definitely under 100mA. Alternately: disconnect your positive battery terminal, then hold a 12v test light in-line and the light glows more than the tiniest amount, you have a problem.
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Oct 24, 2012 04:47
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So OEM cats cost a fortune, can someone tell me why I shouldn't go to an exhaust shop in the hood and get the cheapest cat known to mankind? Either it passes inspection or not, right?
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Oct 24, 2012 14:39
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Weinertron posted:So OEM cats cost a fortune, can someone tell me why I shouldn't go to an exhaust shop in the hood and get the cheapest cat known to mankind? Either it passes inspection or not, right? Off the top of my head, longevity and flow rate. Let's say you're running rich and dumping fuel into the cat. That's not great for the cat. An OEM or reasonable quality cat can probably deal with that for a few years, while a cheapo cat will disintegrate in less than a year. Now let's assume that your el-cheapo cat is more (or less) restrictive than the stock cat. That means your exhaust will provide higher (or lower) backpressure than your engine is tuned for, resulting in rich (or lean) conditions, resulting in less (less) power. Also, if your car is 1996 or later, an el-cheapo cat will probably result in failing the post-cat emissions tests, causing a check-engine light. Now, if your state's inspection consists of pre:Cat exists: ____: Yes ____: No (failure)
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Oct 24, 2012 14:54
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Weinertron posted:So OEM cats cost a fortune, can someone tell me why I shouldn't go to an exhaust shop in the hood and get the cheapest cat known to mankind? Either it passes inspection or not, right? Depends on your state.
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Oct 24, 2012 14:55
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Weinertron posted:So OEM cats cost a fortune, can someone tell me why I shouldn't go to an exhaust shop in the hood and get the cheapest cat known to mankind? Either it passes inspection or not, right? Because the really cheap cats last about a year or two. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Just use that as part of your figuring based on how long you intend to keep the car and how much less expensive the cheap ones are. Note: this post down not apply to the People's Republic of California where it is known to cause cancer.
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Oct 24, 2012 14:55
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Safety Dance posted:Off the top of my head, longevity and flow rate. Let's say you're running rich and dumping fuel into the cat. That's not great for the cat. An OEM or reasonable quality cat can probably deal with that for a few years, while a cheapo cat will disintegrate in less than a year. Thank you so much to all three of you. I'll try to find a healthy medium between Jimmy's Mufflers and their $99 cat, and the OEM one for $800. Car in question is a '99 Miata with only one cat, not a California car with two.
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Oct 24, 2012 15:11
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The CA part applies more to where you live, not whether the car is a CA-emissions car or not. Non-OEM cats are illegal to use on any car in CA.
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Oct 24, 2012 15:16
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 23:34 |
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Check rockauto.com - they often have good brand parts for less than brick&mortar parts store prices, and there are a lot of good aftermarket cat companies, just not the noname cheapest I can get priced ones. And yeah, if you live in cali and need a cat... bend over. Sorry dude.
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Oct 24, 2012 15:51
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