|
marchantia posted:I just finished a 21x21 cross stitch piece and want to hang it on the wall. I am broke, but want it to look at least semi presentable. Frames at that size are pretty expensive, but I wouldn't use the glass or anything. Is there any way I could rig up a frame on the cheap? Any other methods of hanging a tapestry-like thing that I'm not thinking of? There are rough edges, but I suppose I could fold them back somehow. Hobby Lobby runs frame sales what seems like every other week. You may get lucky and find a larger square one. Their website also has 40 percent off coupons you can pull up and use on a single item. Is there any particular reason you want to eschew the glass? I'm just thinking at this point a piece that big represents such a huge time investment you may want to hold off until you can get something nicer. Failing that, go to Goodwill and see if you can reuse a frame from something they are selling.
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2012 15:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 12:12 |
|
|
Hed posted:Hobby Lobby runs frame sales what seems like every other week. You may get lucky and find a larger square one. Their website also has 40 percent off coupons you can pull up and use on a single item. Generally cross stitch isn't displayed behind glass. I will have to keep an eye out for hobby lobby sales though!
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2012 17:50
|
|
|
 I just bought a gas grill, and want to attach it to the gas line on my porch. Am I correct in thinking that I need an 8-point or 12-point socket to remove the plug at the bottom of the line before I can do that? Doesn't seem like Lowes or Home Depot sell 4-point sockets. I tried unscrewing it with a pair of vise grips but it wouldn't budge. I have an impact driver, but I want to make sure that I'm actually supposed to remove that piece before I try it. There's another shutoff ten feet away from this line coming out the side of the house, but it appears to only shut off gas to the kitchen stove which is about twenty feet away from either connector. While that shutoff was in the closed position, I tried just sliding the ball valve assembly out of this connector for a second and it seemed like a lot of gas was coming out so I put it back in. Is it possible for there to be so much gas in the lines that it would take longer to depressurize? King Nothing fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Oct 21, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2012 21:38
|
|
|
An open end wrench will remove the plug (adjustable or otherwise). If it won't budge fashion yourself a cheater bar to add more leverage (Probably best off using two wrenches, one to hold the valve, the other to unscrew the plug)
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2012 22:02
|
|
|
This is my favorite wrench for those square plugs: http://www.walmart.com/ip/14146091?adid=22222222227010278148&wmlspartner=wlpa&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=18143071150&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem Locks on like vice grips. Everyone should own one.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2012 22:30
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:This is my favorite wrench for those square plugs: http://www.walmart.com/ip/14146091?adid=22222222227010278148&wmlspartner=wlpa&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=18143071150&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem Got something similar from Home Depot, it did the trick! Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2012 03:15
|
|
|
Hed posted:Failing that, go to Goodwill and see if you can reuse a frame from something they are selling. Was going to suggest this myself. The thrift stores where I live have a pretty large selection of framed stuff for very cheap, so it's likely you'll be able to find something suitable.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2012 17:32
|
|
|
Does anyone have a favorite resources for basic refrigerator troubleshooting? I have a kegerator that stopped cooling, and after letting it defrost to make sure it wasn't just frozen pipes or a blocked fan it still won't cool. If I can't fix it myself I need to decide if I should build a new one or hire someone to fix. The latter seems hard to justify since I got the fridge for free off of craigslist 2 years ago and who knows how long it was run before then.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2012 19:23
|
|
|
grover posted:Electrical tape is designed specifically to be used with electrical installations and is non-conductive and stable. It's used in conjunction with other styles of tape for wrapping split-bolts. Multi-colored tape is used for permanently marking larger conductors (which only come in black). Tape is also used a lot when pulling cables through conduit and other temporary work. It's also good for covering LEDs on appliances. That's useful for toddlers that like to push the lit power button on the TV while you're watching it, or even power lights that come on when the TV is OFF (I never understood that engineering decision), bathing your entire bedroom in blue light. King Nothing posted:
Hold on there one second. Is that a fixed or portable grill? Homes use natural gas, portable gas grills use propane, and they are different enough to need different parts. Grill manufacturers usually make conversion kits though. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Oct 22, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2012 21:00
|
|
|
Have a materials question. For a project I am thinking about doing I will need a plastic chunk that would measure about 34" x 18" and about 1" thick (3/4 would work also). Where would I find something like this? I will be removing a center section of it, like a negative mold, so I need it to be a type of plastic that I can carve/router/mill out. Wood and metal I've got no issues finding but can't seem to figure out where to order something like this. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2012 21:34
|
|
|
nesbit37 posted:Does anyone have a favorite resources for basic refrigerator troubleshooting? I've always had good luck with the "Samauri Appliance Repair Man" at http://fixitnow.com A strange website because they clearly work as repairmen, but then they also tell you how to fix your own stuff. I've fixed my washer, dryer, and dishwasher using their info.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 01:16
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Hold on there one second. Is that a fixed or portable grill? Homes use natural gas, portable gas grills use propane, and they are different enough to need different parts. Grill manufacturers usually make conversion kits though. It's a Weber Genesis, natural gas version.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 02:33
|
|
|
Tindjin posted:Have a materials question. How about a scrap section of solid surface kitchen countertop?
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 04:21
|
|
|
Tindjin posted:Have a materials question. McMaster-Carr has 24x48 sheets of 3/4 Polyethylene (HDPE) for $94.20. It is rated high for machinability, however I think you might run into trouble finding adhesives that will stick to it. edit: I can't get the link to go directly to the page. Just click the link for Rigid HDPE Polyethylene and scroll down to "sheets".
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 04:42
|
|
|
I'm looking for recommendations on dog houses. There is obviously a bunch of stuff online, but I want it to be accessible to two dogs at the same time. Just wondering if someone here has built a small shelter like that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 04:45
|
|
|
Tindjin posted:Have a materials question. TAP Plastics and US Plastic are my go-to sources for plastic stock. Online Metals has a decent selection now too although their prices are a bit higher.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 05:52
|
|
|
Wotan posted:I'm looking for recommendations on dog houses. There is obviously a bunch of stuff online, but I want it to be accessible to two dogs at the same time. Are we talking yorkies or mastiffs?
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 17:00
|
|
|
Spray paint question: I am using 650 degrees C black spray paint, did all the sanding and cleaning etc. Sprayed it on, it's drying now, but the can says it has to be heated to harden properly. How hot should it be, and for how long? I've put it about a foot away from a 500W halogen to dry for now, is that enough if I leave it for a few hours/all night?
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 20:49
|
|
|
Thanks for the info and suggestions on HDPE it looks to be just what I need.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 05:53
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Are we talking yorkies or mastiffs? Sorry, a 70 lb dog and a 30 lb dog. I'm thinking that something rectangular would be good. Closed on three sides, but open in the front. Kind of like a lean-to I guess. Wotan fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Oct 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 09:23
|
|
|
How much space do you have and what level of a) weather protection and b) aesthetics are you going for? If you need serious weather protection: some dog rescues use straw bale dog houses. They can be large enough for several dogs, can have U-shaped entrance passageways to keep wind and frost out, and stay warm in winter and cool in summer. Plus they're dirt cheap to build, but not good if you don't want your yard to look like a hobo lives there. If you just need a sun/rain shelter with no need for warmth: sure, a 3 sided shelter would work fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 15:41
|
|
|
Ha! I've actually helped build a straw bale house but I didn't even consider that for some reason. It really is so they can just hang out and get out of the rain/sun if they want to. So, thanks alucinor.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 02:58
|
|
|
The wife and I are getting the cheap, unfinished cabinets from lowes to add some extra storage in our kitchen, two 30" base cabinets and two 30" uppers. As I understand it, I need to get a sheet of the veneer type wood to put on the ends of the cabinets that will be visible. What's the proper way to attach these panels? Glue/adhesive? Tiny brad nails? Can I use this same veneer for the kick plate at the bottom, or is there special stuff I need to get for that? Similarly, what's the best way to attach the laminate countertop to the cabinets? Short exterior or drywall screws and adhesive on the top of the frames? I'm getting pretty excited, this will increase our storage space immensely AND make our kitchen feel a little bigger at the same time (we have a small table on that wall currently). The only thing I'm worried about is getting power to that wall, I have to get into the attic of that addition and hope that there is electric up there that I can tap into, fish the walls, etc. Fun for
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 15:52
|
|
|
Wotan posted:Ha! I've actually helped build a straw bale house but I didn't even consider that for some reason. dreesemonkey posted:The wife and I are getting the cheap, unfinished cabinets from lowes to add some extra storage in our kitchen, two 30" base cabinets and two 30" uppers. As I understand it, I need to get a sheet of the veneer type wood to put on the ends of the cabinets that will be visible. grover fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Oct 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 16:04
|
|
|
dreesemonkey posted:What's the proper way to attach these panels? Glue/adhesive? You should be able to order a side panel for the cabinets as the face protrudes past the side. Please do not glue your countertop to your cabinets. You will shim the countertop and then attach to the base cabinets with brackets. Also make sure your base cabinets are flush and level. http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Indoor-Projects/Kitchens/Kitchen-Countertops/how-to-install-a-countertop/View-All
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 18:45
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:You should be able to order a side panel for the cabinets as the face protrudes past the side. Thanks for the link, makes a bit more sense. Thankfully this should be a really simple countertop installation, just a ~60" section with no corner miter or anything. Luckily I have access to a retired general contractor perfectionist who knows all this poo poo if I get too far in over my head. I'm going to need someone's help hanging the upper cabinets anyway.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 19:16
|
|
|
I have a sliding glass door with a latch that is loose. The lever is a basic up/down switch with a hook that goes into the wall as the lock. The up position is unlatched, while down is latched. For some reason, the switch will not stay up. I took off the handle and latch mechanism and there's nothing inside except the lever that has a bar going into the hook portion. Nothing looks broken. Pushing down the switch turns the bar, which then pushes the hook out of the door, into the wall to lock. I thought there would be a spring or something to provide some tension but there's nothing. The switch just freely moves up and down, and gravity keeps it down by default. Nothing holds it in the up position.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2012 18:24
|
|
|
I've got a canvass pouch that looks like it's for a US Military first aid kit. It's really dingy and I'd like to clean it a bit, what kind of soap should I use?
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2012 18:51
|
|
|
angrytech posted:I've got a canvass pouch that looks like it's for a US Military first aid kit. It's really dingy and I'd like to clean it a bit, what kind of soap should I use? Remove the metal clips and throw it in the wash with your dirty clothes then air dry.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2012 00:39
|
|
|
Now that open-window season is probably behind me I'm looking for ways to help insulate my apartment, especially in my bedroom where a large window next to my bed does nothing but let cold air in despite having thick insulating curtains over it. I seem to remember hearing about plastic covers that you can buy and heat-shrink over window frames to seal them off and keep that precious warmth in, did I imagine that or do they exist? Or is there a more thorough or cost-effective way to do this?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 04:16
|
|
|
C-Euro posted:Now that open-window season is probably behind me I'm looking for ways to help insulate my apartment, especially in my bedroom where a large window next to my bed does nothing but let cold air in despite having thick insulating curtains over it. I seem to remember hearing about plastic covers that you can buy and heat-shrink over window frames to seal them off and keep that precious warmth in, did I imagine that or do they exist? Or is there a more thorough or cost-effective way to do this? Read my freaking mind. I was about to ask this, but in a different way. About part of your question, there is plastic insulation like that. You should be able to find it in any hardware store or big box store. It's mainly attached with tape I believe, and the heat shrink part is to help seal it, and stretch it so that you can see through it easily. I have 2 small windows that are close to a hundred years old that I'd like to insulate. I've tried the plastic method in the past, but after 2 seasons it starts to disintegrate. I've got some butyl backed cotton drop cloths, would they be good to insulate with on the outside? I figured cutting them just a little larger than the windows themselves, and using a thin board sized close to a carpet tack strip around the edges to seal any gaps. I don't plan on taking them down since the windows are about 3 feet away from a very often used side road. I'd figure it might help with the outside noise a tiny bit, better than plastic would anyway.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 05:32
|
|
|
C-Euro posted:Now that open-window season is probably behind me I'm looking for ways to help insulate my apartment, especially in my bedroom where a large window next to my bed does nothing but let cold air in despite having thick insulating curtains over it. I seem to remember hearing about plastic covers that you can buy and heat-shrink over window frames to seal them off and keep that precious warmth in, did I imagine that or do they exist? Or is there a more thorough or cost-effective way to do this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_61805-1410-V73/9_0__?productId=3112149&Ntt=frost+king&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dfrost%2Bking&facetInfo= This works surprisingly well. Make sure to buy the ones that is for your window size other you will have lots left over or not enough. Also know that the tape will harm surfaces.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 17:37
|
|
|
Goontastic posted:I have 2 small windows that are close to a hundred years old that I'd like to insulate. I've tried the plastic method in the past, but after 2 seasons it starts to disintegrate. I don't think that stuff is intended to be left up indefinitely. If you're not willing/able to replace the windows themselves, have you thought about getting some storm windows?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 20:33
|
|
|
Or just installing something more solid if it's meant to be permanent, Lexan/Plexiglass/etc cut to fit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 20:36
|
|
|
What about caulking the window frame and using weather stripping where the windows open? Or is all the cold air coming from the panes themselves?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 20:41
|
|
|
Goontastic posted:I have 2 small windows that are close to a hundred years old that I'd like to insulate. They sell interior storm windows, I use the on the two picture windows on the front of the house. They are a single pane of glass with a very thin insulated frame. If your windows are painted you will never notice the storm. Because of the age you must take the time to measure correctly and check for square. You will also want to reglaze the panes if you haven't in the past couple of years.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 20:42
|
|
|
I borrowed a generator from work due to the hurricane. Any reason it would stop running roughly every 45 minutes to an hour? It starts right back up, so it's not the end of the world.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 21:40
|
|
|
Probably overheating one of the electrical components and triggering a safeguard.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 21:50
|
|
|
stubblyhead posted:I don't think that stuff is intended to be left up indefinitely. If you're not willing/able to replace the windows themselves, have you thought about getting some storm windows? That'd help that problem some, but it still wouldn't be very warm. The house is a hundred years old, the only thing between my feet and the dirt under it is a single board that is I guess 3/4" thick. No insulation or anything whatsoever. The walls are an extreme hardwood that bends/breaks most nails also with no insulation. Yesterday it reached a high of 53, the temperature in my house was about 51 in the unheated rooms. If I were to insulate both of those, and replace every single window, I think it'd just be cheaper to buy a new house, in addition to the other issues a house this age has. I went ahead and put a butyl backed dropcloth up, at least now the drafts will be stopped.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 04:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 12:12 |
|
|
Got a new house and I'd like to make some plans of it, to plan a few alterations and such. Is there any decent free windows software that does that? All the 'free' ones I've found so far are crappy and/or demo versions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 14:31
|
|
