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First of all, pictures! Meet Ellie:   Ellie is, as you can see adorable Shih Tzu puppy that is now almost 10 weeks old. She is playful, almost nearly halfway housebroken, and absolutely hates her crate. I can get her to go into it no problem. She gets a treat when she goes in, and when she stays in she gets a kong with peanut butter. One piece of advice I have not found in the OP and links in the OP is about what to do when she freaks out if I actually close the door to the crate. As long as she has her kong, the crate can stay open or closed. The second she finishes it, or realizes that the door is closed, she starts crying and barking and basking against the cage. She tries to claw her way out, or just jumps at it. I let her out because I am afraid she is going to knock were self out. Is it best to just leave the room and let her cry? I know the crate is supposed to be a positive thing, and that seems like it would be counter-productive to that. Is this something that she will eventually get used to? Whats a good time table and way to convince her that she likes it?
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Oct 27, 2012 03:49
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Yes, you will need to let her cry it out. Give her a stuffed kong and set it so that she can see you close the door. This will, over time, build a sense that the door closing isn't the worst thing. Next, leave the room. Let her become comfortable in the crate without distractions to remind her she's restricted. She will cry but its ok. She's not going to hurt herself. She'll sound like bloody murder but she's going to be fine. It's just an adjustment thing and you'll need to bear that burden for a while. Linus was like this too. Didn't like being in the crate unless he had a kong or we were nearby. Sounded like a pig being slaughtered when he wanted out. Now he's happy to be in his crate and practically knocks the thing over when we ask him to head to it.
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Oct 27, 2012 04:00
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swickles posted:
Yep. You shouldn't let her out until she's quiet. Otherwise she'll associate being noisy and aggressive with what she needs to do to be let out every time. Try playing more crate games so she has a positive association with the crate. just leave the door open and pop a treat in there...let her walk out. If she goes into her crate on her own, give her a treat and tons of praise. Proper crate training takes time.... at 10 weeks old you've probably only had her for 2 weeks max (unless you got her from a shady breeder...). Check out the humane society guide to crate training for more specific tips. It was incredibly helpful when we were crate training our pup: http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html
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Oct 27, 2012 04:07
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Awesome thread! I've read up on this whole thread and a few other sites that seemed legit so far but probably have a good bit to learn. I adopted a dog today (~1 yr. old lab retriever mix) and will either pick her up tomorrow (hopefully) or Monday after the sterilization, spay, chipping, etc. I've grown up with dogs but didn't want to get one while I was in college, since I was always traveling back home about 2.5 hours away and couldn't bring the pet with me. I've been living alone since I moved to a new city this Feburary, and I figured after 9 months, I know my financial situation and could finally adopt a dog from a shelter that I've been wanting to do for a while now! However, this doesn't leave me much time to work with her once she gets here. I work 8-5p, but plan to come home for lunch to let her out every day for the first few months, or forever, guess it's up to me to decide. I prefer to work 8-4 and eat through my lunch but I don't like the idea of her sitting at home for 8-9 hours straight without company/potty break, not to mention the stress of moving to a new place. So this brings me to my main concern: how do I go about making sure she doesn't take over the house while I am at work? I live in a loft apartment, so I have an upstairs bedroom and downstairs there's a kitchen/living room. I can either get a crate to train her while I am away, or I could get some kind of doggy gate and leave her in the kitchen (I'm assuming this isn't a great idea) or keep her up or downstairs to roam about, with the potential issue of her chewing up furniture, cables, or anything else since she will probably be nervous/anxious. Hoping somewhere here with similar experience could fill me in! I'm used to having someone else with me to take care of a dog, but I figured it's doable after all.
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Oct 28, 2012 04:06
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Ugh. Two nights in a row now Amelia has peed in her crate. I don't know why this started  Should I be worried about a possible UTI or anything? She's been pretty able to hold it through the night for as long as we've had her.
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Oct 28, 2012 15:59
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Splat posted:Ugh. Two nights in a row now Amelia has peed in her crate. I don't know why this started Take her in to check for a UTI right away. UTIs get worse very very fast and it's really worth checking to see if medical problem before anything else.
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Oct 28, 2012 16:25
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kloa posted:
Shell out for a dog walker or doggie daycare/play group. It's important your dog gets out on a regular basis...especially when they're young. It's really easy for Labs to put on a lot of weight if they don't get regular exercise. A 1 year lab mutt is going to be full of energy that needs to be let out. kloa posted:
Get the crate. Crate train the dog. This is even more important if you're renting vs. owning. We tried baby gating our dog in the kitchen and for the first few weeks she was a-ok...then she started digging at the floor and the woodwork.
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Oct 28, 2012 16:32
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Thanks to SatanKat, Psychobabble! and a life less for the advice regarding my dog Shanti and mouthing. Based on your responses, I'm not worried at all about them biting each other, since it's definitely playful. I guess I'm just used to my boyfriend's dogs - They're greyhounds and enjoyed each other's company, but barely played at all, maybe ten minutes of barking and jumping around every few days.
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Oct 28, 2012 22:26
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So, it's been a while since I've owned a dog. But I trained the first one I had, when I was a wee lad. And now that I've moved up in the world, settled down, got married, and we just brought home our first dog together, and my first dog in a good while. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxe7RcLmx-w We picked him up from our county animal shelter, and he seemed very playful. Seems to be a JRT & Spitz mix. Not quite sure what type, but he's cute and playful and I'm glad we got to take him home with us.   
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Oct 29, 2012 03:22
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I just brought home a 10 month old ACD puppy (Pistol) to be a playmate for my current ACD (Max). Pistol isn't neutered and hasn't finished his shots yet, so I'm keeping him and Max separated till he gets neutered and gets a checkup from a vet this week. They met in neutral territory and got along pretty well, but Max is justifiably a little upset about having an intact male dog in his house. I have the kitchen gated off and Pistol lives in it with a crate and his food dishes, and occasionally Max will go up, bark (but not growl) at Pistol, and punch the gate with his paw. Otherwise he stands/sits there and just observes the puppy. I caught him half-assedly play bowing at him once earlier. Is this normal/good interaction? The barking/punching kind of worries me. Question #2: Pistol has clearly never walked on a leash before. He'll follow me around just fine until I put on a leash, then he sits down and refuses to move. What's the best way to go about teaching him about leashes?
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Oct 29, 2012 03:37
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Is this normal/good interaction? The barking/punching kind of worries me.  quote:What's the best way to go about teaching him about leashes? Pre-requisite step: reinforce eye contact so it's a pretty strong behavior. 1) Click and treat for eye contact but only if the leash is loose at the same time. 2) If for any reason the leash tightens, maintain that tightness (pressure) until the dog looks at you AND moves so the leash loosens. If you don't get eye contact and the dog tries to loosen the leash, step back or do whatever to maintain the pressure until you get eye contact. When the dog looks at you and loosens the leash, tell him "good" or whatever and walk along. Do not click and treat! The pressure going away is his reward for fixing what he should work to prevent (i.e. the tight leash). 3) Keep the hand with the leash stationary so the dog has an easier time learning the length of the leash. Put your leash hand in your pocket or something. This way you're using +R for correct behavior and at the same time utilizing the inherent -R/+P that's always there when using a leash.
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Oct 29, 2012 07:49
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I need some advice here, I have a five year old jack russell named Loki and recently my sisters who live across the road from me got a jack russell puppy of their own called Hades. Since Loki was our first dog and he turned out pretty good we figured we knew the basics of what to do. Turns out (as you can probably guess) that we were unprepared. Hades has always been very nervous, he is six and a half months old and has recently been neutered. Now me and my twin sister were there to help train him during the first couple of months that our sisters had him and so tried to introduce him to lots of other dogs/people/situations. He started out skirting around people, hiding away from visitors and generally being very shy. As he got bigger he started running away from dogs, waiting until their backs were turned and then barking at them. We soon put a stop to that and he seemed to be getting better, he still wouldn't approach other dogs but he wouldn't freak out if we go stuck in a large group of other walkers. He even tried playing with some of the other puppies. Then my twin sister and I went off to uni telling both our sisters and our mum (Who having recently retired is now the person who walks the dogs most often)to remember to keep calm and allow him to socialise but keep a constant check on his body language and act appropriately. My twin sister just received a phonecall from one of our other sisters saying that Hades has bitten a pizza man and that the police have now gotten involved. Any advice or tips we can give them to help curb his aggression?
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Oct 29, 2012 16:56
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pumpie2 posted:I need some advice here, I have a five year old jack russell named Loki and recently my sisters who live across the road from me got a jack russell puppy of their own called Hades. Since Loki was our first dog and he turned out pretty good we figured we knew the basics of what to do. Turns out (as you can probably guess) that we were unprepared. Seek the advice of a veterinary behaviorist. This is not a trainer, this is not a dog whisperer and this is not a vet. This is a Veterinary Behaviorist, and you can find one here: http://www.dacvb.org/resources/find/ If you are unable to find a veterinary behaviorist, seek an IAABC: http://iaabc.org/consultants I suspect a lot of the problems arise from mismanagement of the behavior on your part, although I may be reading too much into your words. You have a documented bite case at this point. If you do not act appropriately, this will end very poorly for your dog if and when it happens again -- he will likely be euthanized. MrFurious fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 17:17
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I suspect it is mismanagement and inconsistency on our part. We live in the UK, north wales to be exact. I have contacted some local trainers asking if anybody can help us with this. I was just looking for anything that we could do right now that would help us cope with his behaviour until we can get some professional help.
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Oct 29, 2012 17:27
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This is book-typical behavior for JRTs and you got lucky with your Loki, as this behavior is more common for the breed. Hades is exhibiting the nerves and high-strung aggression that come with needing stimulation in both mental and physical aspects. MrFurious is right to tell you to find a trainer locally, though, since you could read something on the internet and try to do it yourself, end up doing it the wrong way and contribute to the dog's aggression. You say your problem has mostly been to do with mismanagement, so you probably should bring someone in to help you use proper management techniques, yes? Otherwise you're just going to continue to flounder without really knowing what's working and what's making it worse. Make sure the trainer you choose specializes in positive reinforcement, since any positive punishment to a high-strung dog like a JRT is going to amp up the nerves and lead to a reactive bite. Terriers don't handle physical discipline well. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 17:41
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pumpie2 posted:I suspect it is mismanagement and inconsistency on our part. We live in the UK, north wales to be exact. I have contacted some local trainers asking if anybody can help us with this. I was just looking for anything that we could do right now that would help us cope with his behaviour until we can get some professional help. Right now, you need to manage him such that he will not be in a position where he feels the need to bite again. Don't let him socialize or approach strangers (or strange dogs). If someone comes to the door, put him away before answering. Basically, you want to avoid two things: him getting a chance to bite again, obviously, but also the dog having opportunities to practice reactive/aggressive behavior. Practice makes perfect and will prolong his rehabilitation. Once you find a trainer, you can form a plan of action and then re-introduce normal activities. Though, with a documented bite, I would probably never allow the dog to have contact with anyone who is not aware of his history and has consented to work with him (i.e. people who accept the risks and aren't going to sue you if they get bitten). That sounds restrictive, but really, there is no reason a stranger on the street or the pizza guy or whoever ever needs to interact with your reactive dog.
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Oct 29, 2012 18:01
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Thank you for your advice. We are buying him a muzzle just in case he gets out and are planning on keeping him contained/ controlled as much as possible at all times until I can organise a trainer evaluation. Does anybody know how I can find a good trainer for the area? (Wrexham, North Wales) Thanks again.
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Oct 29, 2012 18:08
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pumpie2 posted:Thank you for your advice. We are buying him a muzzle just in case he gets out and are planning on keeping him contained/ controlled as much as possible at all times until I can organise a trainer evaluation. These folks seem to know terriers and say they only use positive methods. I have no idea if they are actually in your area but they may be a good place to start. If they aren't near you they may be able to recommend someone who is.
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Oct 29, 2012 18:15
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Hey guys! Haven't posted here yet, but please welcome Lexie! She's a pit mix (maybe GSD or Fox Terrier?) and she's 13 months old. We've had her for a month and she's been great so far, with obviously a few growing pains. She's quite the foot/ankle biter. We've been teaching and reinforcing a relaxed state, and since it's been easier to get her to stop the behavior, giving her a sit and relax cue, but I'm wondering what I can to to PREVENT the unwanted behavior in the first place. She gets a good 40-50 minute walk in the mornings before I go to work, and then play sessions/walks during the day with either my wife or mother in law while I'm away (though I'm not exactly sure of how much), so I don't think it's an excess energy problem. It seems to come on randomly, with the exception of 7-7:30 PM where I'm ready for it and take her and have a heavy play session. Thoughts?
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Oct 29, 2012 18:25
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So as to not leave anyone hanging, vet thinks it's possibly puppy vaginitis, but there's a culture of urine out we'll get results on tomorrow. On pre-emptive antibiotics now.
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Oct 29, 2012 18:56
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pumpie2 posted:I suspect it is mismanagement and inconsistency on our part. We live in the UK, north wales to be exact. I have contacted some local trainers asking if anybody can help us with this. I was just looking for anything that we could do right now that would help us cope with his behaviour until we can get some professional help. I bolded the parts that people seem to be having trouble reading. Given that you have a documented and actual bite case at this point I think it is wholly inappropriate to be going to a regular dog trainer if you have an alternative.
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Oct 29, 2012 19:22
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I have attempted to find a veterinary behaviourist but there are none that I can find in my area. The trainers I have contacted are all specialists in aggressive behaviour and I am organising evaluations with each of them to see if they can help us. I am not just taking him to a regular learning to sit and stay trainer. I have made each one aware of the biting incident and his past behaviours. I don't want to give the impression that I am not taking your advice I am just looking at as many different options as I can to find something that is both right for Hades and for my family. If you can suggest how to find a V.B. in my area (Wrexham, North Wales, UK) or what in particular I should be looking for from the people I do find that would help to clarify it for me. Thanks.
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Oct 29, 2012 19:33
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MrFurious posted:I bolded the parts that people seem to be having trouble reading. Given that you have a documented and actual bite case at this point I think it is wholly inappropriate to be going to a regular dog trainer if you have an alternative. While I agree that she needs to see someone well versed in handling dog aggression, I don't think it's 100% necessary for her to insist on seeing a behaviourist. This article touches on some key points: http://canineaggression.blogspot.ca/2012/10/whats-wrong-tihe-being-dog-trainer.html E: I mean, don't go to someone who tends to specialize in family dog training if you have a serious issue like a documented bite. But don't turn a blind eye to everyone without particular letters behind their name.
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Oct 29, 2012 20:21
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a life less posted:While I agree that she needs to see someone well versed in handling dog aggression, I don't think it's 100% necessary for her to insist on seeing a behaviourist. This article touches on some key points: http://canineaggression.blogspot.ca/2012/10/whats-wrong-tihe-being-dog-trainer.html My concern is that based upon how we arrived at this situation, I'm not convinced she's qualified to evaluate a good trainer and not end up with someone who will be using a prong or shock collar. If it's not available, that's an unfortunate fact she'll have to deal with, but I think a starting consult with a VB or IAABC is the best place to begin and get a referral to someone well suited to helping her.
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Oct 29, 2012 22:59
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Hey thread, me again. I've been looking around at Washington breeders (from the GSD club of WA) and the pickings are kinda slim(most haven't updated in years, or I don't like how their dogs look, etc). I found a couple that looked promising and shot off some emails about possible spring litters, and I've only heard back from one breeder so far. I have some questions, though. 1. Is it a common thing in the breeder world for breeders to freeze semen of certain sires? The guy said he recently attempted to impregnate one of his dams with semen from one of his sires that had passed away. This dog specifically. He's good looking, but all the technical information goes way over my head and I have no idea what any of that means  . Furthermore:2. Does the dog above look like a "good dog"? Like I said, I have no idea what a lot of the information on that page is about. Help? 3. His price is 1,200, which is a bit higher than I was hoping for(I was hoping to stay within 800-1000), and he says its because his dogs are from 100% German lines. He says that American GSD sometimes have more medical issues. This could just be a selling point, but is there any truth to this? Just curious, mostly. 4. The dam he inseminated isn't on his website yet because his webmaster has been in and out of the hospital(dude doesn't seem very tech savvy, tbh). What kind of questions should I ask? I asked if he had done the same testing I've seen on other dogs, and if I could see a picture, but besides that I'm not sure what else to ask. Does that look like a decent breeder? I'm still new to this  . If not, does anyone have a recommendation for a GSD breeder in Washington(preferred), or Oregon/montana/idaho?Thanks thread, you're awesome.
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Oct 29, 2012 23:08
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^^^^ Don't get a triangle dog.
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Oct 29, 2012 23:17
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Superconsndar posted:^^^^ Don't get a triangle dog. I have no idea what that means Edit: oh, is it the back leg thing? I haven't been able to find any GSD breeders in this state who don't pose their dogs that way. Is it really so bad? Psychobabble! fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 23:29
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Rixatrix posted:If you see him play bowing in addition to this behavior, it's probably frustration out of not getting to interact with the other dog. It seems like he wants to play with the other guy, which is all kinds of Thanks! I think Max isn't sure what to think, on one hand (paw?) he's got a buddy for playing! Yay! On the other hand there's an intact male in his house which is no bueno. He is conflicted. Pistol's going for the big snip on Thursday so that should alleviate most of the tension (I hope). We'll work on the leash, he seems like an intelligent little guy so hopefully he should get the hang of it soon.
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Oct 29, 2012 23:32
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What are "normal" OFA scores? I would want to know what they were actually rated (ideally, especially for a German Shepherd, they should have excellent hips). Also, German Shepherds are prone to a ton of different diseases so I would want to know what has cropped up in his lines. By triangle dog, she means that absurd look that show German Shepherds have these days where their back slopes down so much they look like a triangle, which frankly looks kinda gross and unhealthy.
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Oct 29, 2012 23:32
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This is just me, but if I was looking for a German Shepherd, I wouldn't even bother looking at breeders that show their dogs at all. Schutzhund titling or other types of sport/hunting are nice and OFA testing is critical, but the only way to do well in the show ring with a GSD is to make ugly, crooked dogs. That's exactly what they've done, though they're not as exaggerated as some I've seen posted here before. Still, I can't even fathom the way they're stacked -- it looks like the dog is stretching out and hurting itself. How is that natural? 
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Oct 29, 2012 23:42
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Thanks! He might just be a little wary of all the change he thinks is going on, but I think Pistol getting the snip can't hurt either. Bailey is a bit more of a but with intact males too (just a little more pushy when playing).
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Oct 29, 2012 23:43
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Psychobabble! posted:Hey thread, me again. I've been looking around at Washington breeders (from the GSD club of WA) and the pickings are kinda slim(most haven't updated in years, or I don't like how their dogs look, etc). I found a couple that looked promising and shot off some emails about possible spring litters, and I've only heard back from one breeder so far. I have some questions, though. Hopefully one of the PI folks that are in to GSDs will help you out because they confuse the heck out of me. There are so many different varieties with different issues that it really is hard to just find a pet. Here are some sites outlining the differences between German/American/working lines http://www.ottogsd.com/GermanvsAmericanlines.htm http://www.wildhauskennels.com/gsdtypes.htm http://www.vonlotta.com/aboutgsd.html The sire of that litter does have health clearances done on his hips and elbows and he did pass the titling required to be bred by German standards, although I would want to know what exactly the dog passed from, especially since he would only be 3. If was hit by a car in a freak accident but was otherwise an excellent specimen of a GSD thats one thing, but I would be worried that he had some genetic condition that contributed to his early death. All GSD lines have health issues far beyond joint problems that I would research thoroughly and ask about. He does have the typical weird roaching of German show line dogs although he isn't as bad as some and isn't super long like a lot of American line dogs. If I were you I would get involved in local schutzhund clubs or tracking/SAR clubs where there are a lot of GSDs participating and get to know non-show breeders in your area. Health testing is a must, but I would value actual working titles way higher than championships in either AKC or German conformation shows. Washington GSD rescue has some cute young dogs for adoption
Instant Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 23:48
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Do dogs understand examples? Life if there are two dogs in a cage and one dog barks and the other doesn't, and someone lets the dog that isn't barking out. Will the barking dog realize what happened?
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Oct 31, 2012 14:48
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Yes. There was a study on this, I'll try to find it. Edit: Sorry, I misread as letting the barking dog out. I don't think the barking dog would figure out that the other dog is being let out because it's not barking. Postess with the Mostest fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Oct 31, 2012 |
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Oct 31, 2012 14:53
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Cuatal posted:Do dogs understand examples? Life if there are two dogs in a cage and one dog barks and the other doesn't, and someone lets the dog that isn't barking out. Will the barking dog realize what happened? The only study I'm aware of on this is one on puppies learning behaviors that other dogs performed. Going from memory here, so it's fuzzy and potentially inaccurate. As I recall, they had puppies crated where they could observe other dogs being cued and taught behaviors using positive reinforcement. Then they measured the time it took these dogs to learn and perform these same behaviors. The puppies who observed seemed to learn slightly faster, but the difference was very small. This supports the claim that dogs do not generalize well which we refer to regularly when we train. Interested to see what Ikantski can pull up.
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Oct 31, 2012 15:01
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It was a study where they had two groups of puppies in two weird cages. They'd put some food on a small wagon and time how long it took them to figure out that they could pull it in by the handle. The second group was allowed to watch. They found that the second group usually figured it out faster. It might have been in "Don't Shoot the Dog", I'm going to try to track it down. I don't think this would apply so much to Cuatal as he's looking for the dog to learn that the absence of a particular behaviour for a certain amount of time makes something good happen instead of something more concrete.
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Oct 31, 2012 15:07
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Helo (6 month old Aussie) developed a limp yesterday after playing with his sister for a few hours. I felt up and down his leg, inspected his paw pads, and worked all his joints--nothing bugged him. I iced his leg a few times yesterday as well. He's still limping today, but not as bad. Currently we're keeping him confined so he can't run around and only walking him to eliminate. What do you guys think? Call the vet? Give him another day? Warm compresses? I'm worried about the little guy even if it doesn't seem to bother him at all
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Nov 1, 2012 17:09
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soap. posted:Helo (6 month old Aussie) developed a limp yesterday after playing with his sister for a few hours. I felt up and down his leg, inspected his paw pads, and worked all his joints--nothing bugged him. I iced his leg a few times yesterday as well. He's still limping today, but not as bad. Currently we're keeping him confined so he can't run around and only walking him to eliminate. You aren't a vet so you can't really make a real call on the health of his joints. (not trying to be snarky, just realistic) Since he's fairly young I'd be paranoid and bring him in to make sure it's nothing serious. It probably isn't, but I guess I'm overly precautions of problems like that after seeing so many PI stories of dogs developing joint and leg problems. e: jesus this post was horribly typed. Kerfuffle fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Nov 1, 2012 |
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Nov 1, 2012 17:12
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soap. posted:What do you guys think? Call the vet? Give him another day? Warm compresses? I'm worried about the little guy even if it doesn't seem to bother him at all
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Nov 1, 2012 17:17
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soap. posted:Helo (6 month old Aussie) developed a limp yesterday after playing with his sister for a few hours. I felt up and down his leg, inspected his paw pads, and worked all his joints--nothing bugged him. I iced his leg a few times yesterday as well. He's still limping today, but not as bad. Currently we're keeping him confined so he can't run around and only walking him to eliminate. We're in a similar situation with our year-old Corgi. We took Neige in to see a vet, and having a week's worth of anti-inflammatories didn't help, so she's scheduled for an x-ray on the leg on Monday. I'd take him in if he's still limping, the NSAID will help if the injury is minor, and if it doesn't, it's good to know what your next steps should be.
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Nov 1, 2012 19:06
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