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For a daily driver, I'd buy OEM rubber bushings, except maybe for the torque rods. A lot of people claim considerable improvements in handling from having poly bushings installed, but given that most 240s still have their original (and completely thrashed) bushings, and since that's where most people are starting from, anything would be an improvement. Since the OE bushings are cheaper and easier to install, and should outlast the car at this point, I see no reason to buy poly unless you're planning to move away from the stock suspension setup.
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Oct 23, 2012 22:16
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I'm planning to eventually buy the smaller/less aggressive of the two iPd sway bar kits and maybe move to some stiffer struts/shocks someday, but that's about it.
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Oct 24, 2012 04:41
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I think you'd be just fine with the rubber, then.
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Oct 24, 2012 16:08
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I've got a 1990 244. It happens to be the only one of my cars that is an automatic, and the AW70 has given me all sorts of grief over the ten years that I've owned this car. The car is running fine, but the speedometer is somewhat flaky. It reads 0 until I get to about 20 MPH, whereupon it kicks on. It also doesn't record distance below 20 MPH - in other words, if I crawl around at 10 MPH, the odometer and trip meter will never increment. I've read that two potential culprits are: 1) speedo cable at the rear diff and 2) damaged capacitors on the speedometer itself. I've got three 240s and a bunch of spare parts, including a spare speedo. So tonight I pulled the binnacle and swapped in the spare. Same symptoms, so either both speedos are blown (doubtful) or it's something else (exceedingly likely). Next on my list is the speedometer cable. Has anyone done this job before, or had these symptoms? Is there anything else I should check?
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Oct 26, 2012 02:28
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There isn't a speedometer cable in a 1990 240-the speedometer is driven by a magnetic pickup that reads off a tone ring in the differential. Often, the wiring near the diff cover gets roachy and you run into intermittent problems or weird behavior like what you're experiencing; if you repair the wiring and/or clean up the connector, it should function more reliably. The odometer gear is driven by the motor that moves the speedometer needle, so if the speedometer is reading 0, the odometer reading won't change.
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Oct 26, 2012 05:05
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e: herp derp
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Oct 26, 2012 |
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Oct 26, 2012 05:08
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Splizwarf posted:It's the gear. It's always the gear. On my phone so no links but google "Volvo 240 speedometer gear" and you oughta get a lot. The "done right" fix is about $90 from a guy who makes superior replacements with a vacuum mold. If you are talking about the odometer gear, I have already done this repair in all three of my 240s. The odometer rolls over fine when the speedometer is registering. zundfolge posted:There isn't a speedometer cable in a 1990 240-the speedometer is driven by a magnetic pickup that reads off a tone ring in the differential. Often, the wiring near the diff cover gets roachy and you run into intermittent problems or weird behavior like what you're experiencing; if you repair the wiring and/or clean up the connector, it should function more reliably. That is indeed what I meant, and I shouldn't have said "speedometer cable". I'll get the car up on a lift in the next few days and poke around in there. I strongly suspect this is it, because of the symptoms. At a low speed, it's too low to pick up; once it hits around 20 MPH, it's strong enough to read. Thanks for the reassurance.
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Oct 26, 2012 05:51
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Posting from bed late at night is stupid, my bad. 
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Oct 26, 2012 12:53
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Also pull the sensor out of the diff and clean it, easy to do while you're under the car. They often get junk piled up on them which can reduce their signal strength, same as ABS sensors.
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Oct 26, 2012 15:44
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:There is a 2000 Volvo v40 with the 1.9t at a used car dealer by my house. Are these decent cars? I've been looking for a new commuter. I'm gonna stop by and get a test drive tomorrow. Anything I ought to look for? I just sold my '02 V40 to get a Fiat. It was a pretty sweet car, but It didn't have near as much character as my 240. Hell of a lot more get up n' go 'tho. Spliz is right, rag the hell out of that transmission, and make sure it can take it. My v40 was constantly shifting at weird times. (of course I only paid $2000 for it, and it had other issues too.)
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Oct 26, 2012 18:28
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So I finally got around to driving it. A couple of issues: A CEL at startup that went away with driving. There was a yellow flashing up arrow the whole time I drove it. The radio didn't work. It drove and shifted well. It had a lot of vibration at idle. Lots of wind noise, around the sunroof I think. It has a roof rack, so that could be it. It has 122,000 miles. Is it a good deal for $2800?
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Oct 31, 2012 00:43
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:There was a yellow flashing up arrow the whole time I drove it. I think this means "horrible transmission issue" but I might be wrong.
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Oct 31, 2012 01:53
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Up arrow is definitely the transmission error indicator- for $2800 I'd keep looking.
Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Oct 31, 2012 |
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Oct 31, 2012 22:19
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I forgot to add that the brake pedal felt sort of spongy. It seemed to stop alright. I did a panic stop and it felt solid. But the pedal had a good 4 inches of travel before the brakes started to grab. Also, I read online that you could rock the shift lever forward and back real quick to get some grease back on the contacts. Is that bogus? It said it was either that or a PNP switch? No clue.
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Oct 31, 2012 23:50
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Who is ready to read about a hilarious mystery problem? I'm in my 96 850 R, and I'm pulling out of a gas station onto a street. The steering gets hard and all of the dash warning lights come on immediately. Instinct made me give it gas to keep it alive, and I could hear the engine rev normally. I don't remember if I had any issues with power as I immediately turned into a lot and everything is fine again. I'm driving around in another lot, and I need to make a u-turn. I turn the wheel, and the steering goes hard and the lights come on again. I backed the wheel to center and it stops. I turn the wheel, and when it hits that one position, the problem comes up again. I did this 4 or 5 times in 10 seconds before it stopped. What the gently caress could kill my power steering like that, throw up a bunch of warning lights, all while the engine is still running? A couple weeks back, I had an ever dumber electrical problem. When I pulled into a lot, all of the lights died and the gauges went to zero. While this was happening, I played with the headlight switch. Turning the headlights off returned the gauges to normal. Turning the headlights back on killed them, and made the engine lug. Turn signal usage created a buzzing sound from my steering column, while turning on the high beams killed the engine. After starting and stopping 10-15 times, it returned to normal These may be related to the extremely intermittent issue I have with the car dying upon braking. It's happened maybe 3 times in the past year. I've never even bothered to think about it due to the futility of tracking something like that down. Sandy brought a decent amount of rain to Ohio, so maybe water's getting somewhere and shorting something. Or maybe it's ECU related. I'm open to suggestions. Begging for suggestions actually. And Lloyd, I checked out my cowl and sunroof drains. Both are clear. My carpet is still soaking. Fuuuuccckkk
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Nov 1, 2012 05:42
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I AM NOT AN EXPERT Power steering sounds like the pump is stalling, not sure how to diagnose this properly though. Electrical - have your Alternator checked, then check & fix all your earths. I'd also pull your headlight switch & inspect & clean the contacts.
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Nov 1, 2012 11:21
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It sounds like you have an issue with your serpentine belt and/or one of the things that it drives.
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Nov 1, 2012 15:11
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Yeah, check your serp belt and tensioner, sounds like you're stalling the belt. Did you make sure your sunroof drain tube exits the vehicle? I had a friend with that problem on another car, he installed a subwoofer and while he was doing the wiring he accidentally pulled on the tube which left it inside the car instead of through a grommet to go outside. And did you check the cowl drains under the plastic cowl cover? Basically your cabin air inlet filter location. Just double checking. Next thing to check is windshield seal. I'd say pull your dash top and A-pillar trim and look for signs of leaks. Another trick is wait for a dry day, then pour water all over the car and look under the carpet and such for trickles.
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Nov 1, 2012 15:23
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Look for possible rust on the bay side of the firewall. Casnorf's car (not a Volvo but still) turned out to be routing rainwater past and eventually through a rusted spot in his firewall, right into the top of the passenger's footwell. 
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Nov 1, 2012 15:52
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I have a 1993 240 with only one key. Do I need to get a key made at the dealer or can I get one copied anywhere?
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Nov 3, 2012 21:17
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Really cool rally prepped 245: http://www.brickboard.com/CLASSADS/index.htm?id=15852 
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Nov 5, 2012 23:55
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SwashedBuckles posted:I have a 1993 240 with only one key. Do I need to get a key made at the dealer or can I get one copied anywhere? You should be able to get a new one made pretty much anywhere-there's nothing exotic about it. I don't think the 240 ever got the laser-cut key that they used in the later models.
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Nov 6, 2012 01:28
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http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/3366432427.html Yay or Nay? And if its a yay... how much is it worth? Looks like the engine needs finished, and a little bit of cleaning...
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Nov 9, 2012 19:47
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You have no idea what state the engine is in & how long it's been apart. Also, I would check very carefully for repairs to the front end- New grill, headlights etc & a pulled engine may be accident damage. Basically find a similar one in similar condition & halve the value for not running. You also can't tell what condition the gearbox & suspension are in. If you can put it back together, bag a bargain, otherwise, forget it.
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Nov 9, 2012 20:55
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No your right. Just would be fun to get a nice little Volvo coupe. Maybe I will just hold out for a convertible to come along.
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Nov 11, 2012 00:01
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Once I saw an XC70 with the word "VOLUAR" on the back, with Volvo letters. On the front there was a jaguar figure on the hood. There was some other jaguar stuff, too. I think "JAGVO" has a nicer ring to it, personally.
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Nov 11, 2012 03:53
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BrokenKnucklez posted:No your right. Just would be fun to get a nice little Volvo coupe. Maybe I will just hold out for a convertible to come along. Yeah, I'd go for it if you could the engine back together and it's a fresh teardown, and barring any major accident damage (salvage title?). I'd lowball him $1000, he posted in on the 26th of October, maybe he has pressure to get it out of the yard etc. if he's not moving on price I'd go no higher than 3k though.
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Nov 11, 2012 04:11
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LloydDobler posted:And then we have my friend Brett's '79 262. Tony Bertone. Just thought I'd toss this out there, my buddy just had a kid and is selling this car to buy a family truckster. It hurts him to sell it, but it's gotta go. He's asking $10k firm, with a shed full of hard to find spare parts as well. It's a ridiculous bargain if you want a custom 240.
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Nov 12, 2012 21:35
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LloydDobler posted:Just thought I'd toss this out there, my buddy just had a kid and is selling this car to buy a family truckster. It hurts him to sell it, but it's gotta go. He's asking $10k firm, with a shed full of hard to find spare parts as well. It's a ridiculous bargain if you want a custom 240. ok I know I was just hating on the 262C in the craigslist thread but god drat, this car
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Nov 12, 2012 23:33
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Yeah sorry but 262's look horrendous to me. Everything behind the b pillar just looks awkward and out of place.
Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Nov 13, 2012 |
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Nov 13, 2012 03:17
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Managed to get a cool photo of my new S60R as I was leaving work today. Pity I don't have a decent camera.
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Nov 13, 2012 23:41
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Had to put my porsche 944 in the shop (probably won't come back out,) so I decided to go get a new car. Came home with this:    I think I'm in love already.
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Nov 17, 2012 04:21
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Great looking car, szidev. I'm really a fan of the Corona wheels. I'm in the process of refurbishing a set now. I can't wait to get them on my 244. I can't see headrests through the tint, but based on the shift knob and the steering wheel, you've got an '87, '88, or '89. If you've got an '87, you oughta read up on the biodegradable wiring harness, just so you're familiar with it and some of the potential symptoms. If you've got an '88 or an '89, forget about that and just enjoy the car!
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Nov 17, 2012 17:18
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becoming posted:Great looking car, szidev. I'm really a fan of the Corona wheels. I'm in the process of refurbishing a set now. I can't wait to get them on my 244. i love it when stock wheels look good on a car. becoming posted:I can't see headrests through the tint, but based on the shift knob and the steering wheel, you've got an '87, '88, or '89. If you've got an '87, you oughta read up on the biodegradable wiring harness, just so you're familiar with it and some of the potential symptoms. If you've got an '88 or an '89, forget about that and just enjoy the car! yep, it's an 87. thanks for the heads up. i guess i'll add a wiring harness upgrade to the (thankfully very short) maintenance list.
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Nov 17, 2012 18:08
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Has anyone had any luck sourcing the OEM bolts that hold the radiator to the core support in an 850/X70? Among the other lazy fixes that have been done to the XC I just bought, someone took them out and left them out, so the radiator/intercooler/condenser assembly is just sitting in the bumper tray. 
SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 23:22
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Are you talking about the two side bolts that go in from the bottom? those can be any hardware store bolt that is the right thread and length (probably 6mm or 8mm) and a huge washer. Or just try going to the dealer, they're usually pretty reasonable about small hardware like that. Might cost you $6 or so.
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Nov 21, 2012 05:28
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Yeah, those are the ones I'm referring to. I can't find a parts diagram that lists them or a part number for them, so I wasn't sure whether they were anything special. Thanks!
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Nov 21, 2012 08:24
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meatpimp posted:You can have each headlight assembly out in literally less than 5 seconds.
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Nov 26, 2012 17:57
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It's way easier than you think to change the bulb, give it a try as is. You unscrew the cover 1/4 turn, which opens up more room for your hand to work, then the bulb change is super easy inside there, just the plug and the metal clip that meatpimp was talking about. You have to pull the bumper to remove the actual headlight assembly, which in itself is not hard - but if your hand still doesn't fit it's far easier to pull the airbox and get access if you're just changing a bulb. You remove the top half of the airbox like you're changing the filter, and flex the intake tube to get it out of the way. Then the bottom half of the box will basically unsnap and lift out of the engine bay. There might be a few things that snap on to it that you'll have to move, but it's all fairly easy to keep track of. Give it a shot and let us know.
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Nov 26, 2012 19:27
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The lower half of the airbox has two clips like this holding it in. I can't just slide it out because the slots face opposite directions. If I can get this one (closer to the radiator) out I should be able to lift out the box. It seems like a promising method, and I really don't want to take off the bumper. Edit - I was worried I would break the clips, but pulling up on the airbox popped them loose. That gave me a much more comfortable area to work in, and now the bulb is replaced. No muss, not too much fuss, no tickets for having a light out. Thanks! Arse Porn Cage fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Nov 26, 2012 |
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Nov 26, 2012 20:01
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