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An I6 from a 2004 Wrangler should drop into my 2002 no problem right? The coil rail and everything else look to be in the same spot in everything I've seen.
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Oct 29, 2012 22:25
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Be sure the TSB/recall has been applied to the cam and oil pump drive gear if you are sourcing a 2004 engine.
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Oct 29, 2012 22:37
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Which brand of bed liner has the smoothest texture? I want to do my door handles and fender flares with something less rough than Herculiner. Also is it a dumb idea to do my wheels? Mine are all scratched and I think they would look good in black.
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Oct 30, 2012 13:47
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For the wheels Plastidip is a much cheaper alternative and is reasonably durable. If you decide you really like the look, peel it off and line them.
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Oct 30, 2012 16:42
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internet celebrity posted:Which brand of bed liner has the smoothest texture? I want to do my door handles and fender flares with something less rough than Herculiner. Also is it a dumb idea to do my wheels? Mine are all scratched and I think they would look good in black. I used the spray Rustoleum bed liner and it's still holding up. more so than on the bed. 
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Oct 30, 2012 18:07
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internet celebrity posted:Mine are all scratched and I think they would look good in black. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2773074&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=148#post396169041 Cost was like $30 total. Over a year later and it has held up well.
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Oct 31, 2012 00:56
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Looking at replacing the water pump, thermostat housing, and both radiator hoses on my Cherokee to hopefully get rid of my elusive coolant leak (and because everything is 14 years old). I've never had any problems with overheating while towing a boat through an Atlanta heat wave with the A/C on so is there any reason to spend the money on a Flowkooler vs a $31 Bosch water pump? Also, someone said something a while back about only buying OEM cooling parts and I was wondering if anyone had any horror stories about that.
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Nov 2, 2012 03:33
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Cat Hatter posted:Looking at replacing the water pump, thermostat housing, and both radiator hoses on my Cherokee to hopefully get rid of my elusive coolant leak (and because everything is 14 years old). I've never had any problems with overheating while towing a boat through an Atlanta heat wave with the A/C on so is there any reason to spend the money on a Flowkooler vs a $31 Bosch water pump? Also, someone said something a while back about only buying OEM cooling parts and I was wondering if anyone had any horror stories about that. As long as they are OEM spec they should be fine. Racing/high flow pumps should be avoided with a stock cooling system because coolant can actually flow too quickly to cool in your radiator etc.
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Nov 2, 2012 03:38
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Yeah a Bosch replacement is fine. If you want better cooling, installing a set of hood vents will make more of a difference than anything else.
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Nov 2, 2012 03:41
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Factory is fine... use a Stant SuperStat thermostat, indian head gasket shellac on the thermostat gasket (the kind in the metal can, not the brown plastic bottle) and make sure you use the proper rotation direction water pump. Flush the block while you're at it, and if it's a 96 or earlier, check the heater control valve to make sure it's not brittle. They're made out of thin plastic, age poorly, and break in half if you look at them funny, so either have a new one on hand or plan on bypassing it, which won't affect functionality a bit, except possibly slightly raising the temperature of the air on the vent setting.
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Nov 2, 2012 04:32
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I bought a 1994 Wrangler S, it doesn't have a top or any factory mounting hardware what so ever. So I bought a rampage frameless soft top figuring it would eliminate my need to buy the factory mounting hardware, and a windshield channel to mount it. I'm not very well versed in jeeps, and thats where I am having my current problem. The little plastic channel that the soft top clips into all along the side and rear of the jeep, what is that thing called? My jeep doesn't have anything to mount the top to, and if someone could point me in the right direction as to what I should buy in order to mount my frameless soft top I would really appreciate it.
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Nov 2, 2012 18:17
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SirDrinksAlot posted:I bought a 1994 Wrangler S, it doesn't have a top or any factory mounting hardware what so ever. Wait, are you missing the door frames? You'll need those to put the top on for sure. Post pics so we know exactly what you do/don't have. Hell, I have a Rampage top, I'll put some pics up so you can point out what you don't have. Edit: you have a YJ so it won't be a perfect match, but it should be pretty similar. EightBit fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Nov 2, 2012 |
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Nov 2, 2012 18:25
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EightBit posted:There should be a lip on the tub that the top anchors in. It's not plastic. You may need to get the bar that goes into the rear window and the metal grips that hold it to the body. Those metal grips sound like what I need. When you say door frames, what exactly do you mean? I have half doors with the window skeleton and skin. But that is probably not what you are talking about. These are the places that lack the anchor on the sides and it lacks the anchor for the tail gate bar.      Where I think the windshield channel goes   And just some full body pictures.   I think I found the pieces that I need, http://www.rockriders.biz/servlet/the-1506/1987-dsh-1995-Jeep-Wrangler-Half/Detail I think those are the metal grips you are talking about, as well as the bar that goes over the tail gate.
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Nov 2, 2012 18:41
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That kit has everything I can remember from when I had a soft top YJ. Do you have door uppers?
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Nov 2, 2012 19:12
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Door uppers, you mean the channel that grips the soft top? Or do you mean the fabric that covers the door/window skeleton? I have the whole door/window skeleton assembly.
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Nov 2, 2012 19:17
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SirDrinksAlot posted:Or do you mean the fabric that covers the door/window skeleton? I have the whole door/window skeleton assembly. This is what I meant. Fabric/frame top half of the door.
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Nov 2, 2012 19:21
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Ok so I think that kit should cover me, thanks guys.
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Nov 2, 2012 19:25
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Awesome YJ man!EightBit posted:
YJ soft tops to my knowledge generally don't have plastic surrounds for the doors like TJ tops do. Godholio posted:That kit has everything I can remember from when I had a soft top YJ. Do you have door uppers? They're in his photos. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 2, 2012 |
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Nov 2, 2012 19:34
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 So they are.
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Nov 2, 2012 19:54
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Brake-related question on a 92 XJ (with ABS): Went to start it and put my foot on the brake to shift out of park. Pedal went soft (and ~3/4 of the way to the floor) and the BRAKE warning light came on. I now have very limited braking power, maybe 25% or less compared to normal. After some poking around I found a hole at the front of the hardline running from the ABS unit to the rear brakes (looks like it had been rubbing against the steering shaft for a while). Obviously I'm going to replace that 7' section of line, but I'm wondering why I have so little stopping power. It seems like since (I assume) the front brakes are still perfectly functional I should have more stopping power than I do, especially considering it's front discs/rear drums. Am I missing something? Is there some magic happening inside the ABS unit that would cause loss of front brake capability even when it's the rear brakes that seem to be non-functional? For reference there are two hardlines that run from the master cylinder to the ABS unit, then *something happens*, and then there are three lines that exit, one to each front caliper and a single one to the rear. I'm confident that fixing the rear hardline will fix the problem, I just can't reconcile the symptoms with what seems to be the only issue.
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Nov 4, 2012 20:19
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What you have is dual system or dual pot brakes, they have been standard since the 70s iirc. Basically there are two pistons in the MC, separated/balanced by a spring. Each has a separate inlet (from the reservoir) and outlet (hardline to the abs hcu.) The reservoir has a wall that goes partially up the center usually, but some designs don't include this. The effect is that under normal operation, the front brakes are off one piston and the rears off the other. If one side or the other fails, all the fluid runs out of that side and that piston collapses, leaving the other piston doing all the work. That is, until the fact that the pistons mostly or completely share a reservoir results in the still-working piston sucking air and not working well. Make sure you bleed the system well after replacing the line, and you may still need to rebleed it or have the dealer bleed it using the ABS bleed sequence in their DRB-III tool if air got into the passages in the ABS HCU. This will manifest as brakes that work well until ABS kicks in, but then get soft and stop working well again. Also, you got lucky. 91 and older have deathtrap/russian roulette ABS systems, 92 and newer have a rather reasonably built system that is quite reliable when maintained and repaired correctly.
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Nov 4, 2012 20:55
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The Rear brake hard line is a very common failure on these jeeps. Just about everyone I've spoken to has had to change it, Including myself. I had the jeep in getting tires when the tire tech called me over and pointed to the drip coming off the hard line. I was damned lucky it didn't rupture while I was driving it down the highway.
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Nov 4, 2012 21:38
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yup. Had it fail on my 96 XJ, got to learn to do bodywork and paint because of that. Fortunately I hit a guardrail not another car so I just fixed it myself instead of getting my insurance rates jacked up. PO had it fail on my 91 MJ, I was up till 5AM doing the brake lines the day before thanksgiving 09 because of that. Had it fail on my 98 XJ, fortunately no real issues just had to replace the line... Had it fail on my 88 MJ while replacing the gas tank, gave up in frustration and it hasn't run or driven since then. I should get on that.
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Nov 4, 2012 21:41
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Wow where should we look to see if there are problems starting?
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Nov 4, 2012 21:50
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mod sassinator posted:Wow where should we look to see if there are problems starting? Yea I didn't know about this, how easy is it to replace?
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Nov 5, 2012 04:00
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hit the first 1000 miles today on my rubi on the top of a mountain. naturally  
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Nov 5, 2012 04:01
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It can be a pain in the rear end to replace, as the front end of that brake line goes up the underside of the floor/firewall right where the fuel lines, exhaust, and steering shaft are located, not much space to work. Keep an eye on the rust situation along the line, basically just check it from where it connects to the body end of the rear hydraulic line going to the axle housing all the way up to the ABS HCU or proportioning valve. If there's any deep pitting or flaky rust, you should keep an eye on it or replace it, but if there's no rust or only minor dusty surface rust you are good to go, basically. It runs along the inboard side of the driver frame rail.
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Nov 5, 2012 04:08
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School me on adjustable control arms. I've got a 03 Rubicon with a 4.5 in lift. It's on stock control arms now. I've been looking at adjustable units and many of them seem the same. The shop I went to recommended Teraflex but they look the same as Rokmen or Currie and cost $400 more. Is that extra cost worth it? The JKS are the only ones that look substantially different than the other options but once again they are $400 more than the Rokmen. Thoughts on the issue?
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Nov 5, 2012 07:12
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kastein posted:91 and older have deathtrap/russian roulette ABS systems,  Bendix! I'm just going to convert my 91 XJ Briarwood to vacuum assist. Had the dealership replace the ABS pump once under the lifetime TSB and it failed a year and a half later.
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Nov 5, 2012 12:13
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I got my Jeep back on Friday night and drove it over 300 miles this weekend, maybe 50 of those miles off-road. The mechanic put in a rebuilt 2004 motor from a totaled wrangler. It runs smoother than ever and sounds nice and clean with no ticking of clattering. The OPDA had already been replaced on the new motor, and the CPS is the same style that my 2002 had installed. The old engine seized when the connecting rod in the #1 cylinder literally snapped in half. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo when I was at the shop. The piston ground the head off of the spark plug that was poking through in that cylinder. The new engine came with intake and exhaust manifolds attached, so now I have 1 spare intake mani, 2 spare exhaust manis, a spare head and a spare valve cover. I really should've kept the old block so maybe I could clean it up one day, but I don't know that it would've been salvageable (probably would've been). I'm looking forward to having my own garage soon where I can take a car apart. Anyway, I did a lot of awesome trail riding this weekend in Ocotillo and Anza Borrego. Some of the most challenging stuff I've ever done, which isn't saying much, but this was the first time I ever had to really think about lines and where to put my tires.   
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Nov 5, 2012 17:51
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brains posted:hit the first 1000 miles today on my rubi I just turned 10k! on my 2012! Only took me 3 1/2 months to do it too! I was commuting 100+ miles a day for work and I've since stopped that so the miles should slow down here now thank goodness. Only good thing to come from so many miles is the 33's I put on 9k miles ago are getting pretty worn and I'm ready to step up to 35's as soon as they are done.
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Nov 5, 2012 20:23
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mattfl posted:I just turned 10k! on my 2012! Only took me 3 1/2 months to do it too! I was commuting 100+ miles a day for work and I've since stopped that so the miles should slow down here now thank goodness. Only good thing to come from so many miles is the 33's I put on 9k miles ago are getting pretty worn and I'm ready to step up to 35's as soon as they are done. What gears do you have, and is it lifted? 33 is about as big as you can go without rubbing too much.
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Nov 5, 2012 21:10
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mattfl posted:I just turned 10k! on my 2012! Only took me 3 1/2 months to do it too! I was commuting 100+ miles a day for work and I've since stopped that so the miles should slow down here now thank goodness. Only good thing to come from so many miles is the 33's I put on 9k miles ago are getting pretty worn and I'm ready to step up to 35's as soon as they are done. haha yeah i'm actually pretty surprised at how fast i've been putting miles on it. i'm also planning on 35s, with a 3-4" lift. i always wanted them for my TJ, and they look so good on the JKs with just a little lift. it almost makes me feel bad, though, since the stock 32s the rubi came with are great tires too. oh and i'm planning on 5.13 gearing or thereabouts, i just don't think 4.11 is gonna cut it with 35s here in the Rockies.
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Nov 6, 2012 00:58
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All this talk about miles and tire size has got me thinking. Are odometers based on # of wheel revolutions to calculate mileage? If so, do they account for tire size?
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Nov 6, 2012 01:13
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Yes, they are - tough to measure any other way. No, they don't - how would they? There's a plastic gear attached to a sensor on the rear output of the transfer case (in most models) that counts revolutions of the rear driveshaft. You can compensate for diff gearing and/or tire size changes by replacing the gear with one of a different tooth count. Part is generally around $50, if you pay someone to install it expect some labor charges obviously, it takes around an hour to install it if you have one of those super big belly pans that come on a wrangler or maybe 20min on an XJ/MJ/ZJ etc. The toughest part is clocking the sensor correctly to engage the teeth to the right depth and avoid stripping them off it the first time you go for a drive.
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Nov 6, 2012 01:23
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internet celebrity posted:All this talk about miles and tire size has got me thinking. Are odometers based on # of wheel revolutions to calculate mileage? If so, do they account for tire size?
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Nov 6, 2012 01:23
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kastein posted:Yes, they are - tough to measure any other way. No, they don't - how would they? The speedo gear on a wrangler is pretty easy to reach even with the skid shovel installed.
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Nov 6, 2012 01:32
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I seem to recall it being a pain in the rear end for some reason, but now that I think about it, I was probably remembering attempting to access things on the transmission and the shift linkage on the transfer case, not the backside where the VSS is.
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Nov 6, 2012 01:35
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Godholio posted:What gears do you have, and is it lifted? 33 is about as big as you can go without rubbing too much. 3.88 and 3.5" lift, I'll have no problem running 35s. I got a friend running the same thing with a 3" lift and has 0 rubbing.
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Nov 6, 2012 01:59
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| # ? May 22, 2024 17:11 |
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Edit: You have a 12, so I'll change this. Did you mean 4.88? That's right in the sweet spot from what I've read.
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Nov 6, 2012 02:01
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