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In reality, the difference between gloss and matte varnish is talc. <edit: glory to the plague father>
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Nov 16, 2012 07:54
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lilljonas posted:Putting medium in a gloss warnish would just make it a slightly diluted gloss varnish. Clerks who don't know poo poo about painting should not be giving out creative painting ideas to customers. You can however paint it over the gloss and dull it down but really, just use testors.
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Nov 16, 2012 08:10
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At first I was like... But then I was like...  Remember kids, mental illness is serious business.
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Nov 16, 2012 10:53
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The Dark Project posted:Remember kids, mental illness is serious business.
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Nov 16, 2012 10:55
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... Is it ok to use these pics next time my wife complains about my collection?
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Nov 16, 2012 10:56
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Sure, why not  This doesn't take into account all of the ones I owned unboxed and partially assembled, such as a complete set of Wolfen, as well as various others I have stripped and have waiting for the day I actually get off my butt and paint. This pile is only my confrontation stuff. Likely to need another few tables for GW, Malifaux, Mantic, Helldorado and all the other things I have kicking around. Cracking down and beginning to sell a lot of this stuff. Having no money and a shitload of miniatures I will never paint or play with makes no logical sense. But then again, mental illness doesn't really help in the decision making part of the brain. Edit: The amount of blisters might seem smaller, but that's just because I've stacked them front to front to make a rectangle so I can stack them up properly. The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Nov 16, 2012 |
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Nov 16, 2012 11:01
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I thought I had a problem, but that is truly impressive. I'm sure the Hoarders production team would have a field day going into most wargamer's collections.
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Nov 16, 2012 11:13
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A couple of questions for you guys regarding paints. What is a good paint to use for skin. Do I need more than one basic paint? I mean, can I mix one paint with white and black to achieve shades? Should I add some blue to the darker shades and some yellow to the lighter ones? Which ones do you recommend?
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Nov 16, 2012 11:45
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Hellbeard posted:A couple of questions for you guys regarding paints. What is a good paint to use for skin. Do I need more than one basic paint? I mean, can I mix one paint with white and black to achieve shades? Tallarn flesh/whatever new one is, brown wash, mix in a small amount of yellow+white or bone to highlight. That's what I usually use, or Vallejo flat flesh works as a highlight colour too. For black, you can't really darken it, so start with a dark grey and shade with a black wash and highlight with grey or dark blue. richyp fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Nov 16, 2012 |
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Nov 16, 2012 13:25
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I finished painting the DV Chaplain  The smoke coming from the censers on the backpack was difficult, I had to repaint it 2 or 3 times before I got something acceptable and even now I'm not thrilled with it, that's just the best result of a bad bunch. Working on those Terminators in the background now.
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Nov 16, 2012 15:53
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... I know I am supposed to be horrified at your excess, but in actuality I am just envious that you got a hold of so much Confrontation stuff. Is that all metals or are some of the boxes their plastic stuff? Either way, give me all your Griffin.
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Nov 16, 2012 16:00
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... Thanks for making me feel a lot better about my recent purchases.
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Nov 16, 2012 16:03
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... This just reminds me I have a whole bunch of Dirz stuff buried somewhere I never touched, which is just gathering dust. 
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Nov 16, 2012 16:20
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... So uh...you wouldn't happen to have the Char Nain Dwarf Chariot, would you?
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Nov 16, 2012 16:36
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Ashcans: All metal except for the few pre-painted plastics down the side and the Ram box. Oh and the 3 boxes of resin flesh golems and other resins I bought (don't ask). Lemon: They are one of the best looking factions. Find something to proxy them as, and paint them up! Slimnoid: 3 in shrinkwrap. You after one?
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Nov 16, 2012 18:31
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I sent you a PM containing a rather lengthy list of wants. PASS ON THE SICKNESS.
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Nov 16, 2012 18:35
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Had a look through, dammit you ask for the hardest to find stuff Let me see what I have and I will get back to you. I looked through and I can say from your list I do have some of those you listed, but opened and will likely be the last I sell, looking to keep those. Others I am fine with on-selling. I will make a list and let you know. The stacks of 5 boxes on the right are all unopened. What the gently caress was I thinking? Around 50 flesh golems? 
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Nov 16, 2012 18:43
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... If you sell these, I call dibs on Mid-Nor. And any Masters of Carnage.
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Nov 16, 2012 19:07
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The Dark Project posted:Slimnoid: 3 in shrinkwrap. You after one? I've been trying to find one for awhile now, and for a price that isn't ridiculous.
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Nov 16, 2012 19:20
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The Dark Project posted:Had a look through, dammit you ask for the hardest to find stuff Are you going to make an SA-Mart thread?
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Nov 16, 2012 19:25
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Think I will so I stop crapping up the thread. Will let people know when it's done. Slimnoid: I might be able to help you out, let me check out a few things and get back to you.
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Nov 16, 2012 19:36
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Pretty excited about my next conversion, which is in progress. Wanted to do something that could proxy as either a Heldrake or a Hell Blade, which led me to convert something from the Khemrian Warsphinx/Necrosphinx kit I'm going to call a Golden Destroyer. Mostly a rework of the WFB kit, though I'm using the dragon head from the Maulerfiend kit. Reworked, he looks like this badass thorny serpent pharaoh thing. It's pretty great so far, and I'll post pics up when I'm a little farther along. I'm wondering, though, whether to use just one set of Egyptian-style wings, or two...
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Nov 16, 2012 20:35
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I wish I knew what all those lines were that The Dark Project has so I could make some requests, but that cash would be much better spent on other stuff right now... Anyway, I've set myself the task of fully magnetizing a Forge/Maulerfiend. I had to read and flip over the instructions many many times to figure out what legs go where...whose bright idea was it to ignore the numbers molded onto the sprues and not print ANY drat numbers in the assembly manual? I think I've got everything OK, I got lucky that I glued the feet onto the right set of legs, instead of the hooves...gently caress it's hard to explain all that. Suffice it to say it'll have a moving neck, swappable heads, arms and neck, and because the rear legs will be swappable the base will most likely be magnetized as well, to hold onto the different feet.
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Nov 17, 2012 02:09
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Just an update on my sculpting progress:   
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Nov 17, 2012 04:32
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Hellbeard posted:Just an update on my sculpting progress: Looking good, wish I had any form of talent when it came to sculpting, but I am about as creative as a retard with a crayon.
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Nov 17, 2012 04:36
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LumberingTroll posted:about as creative as a retard with a crayon. I'm pretty sure this is a thing, and they sell for huge amounts.
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Nov 17, 2012 05:05
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Sole.Sushi posted:I'm pretty sure this is a thing, and they sell for huge amounts. Why aren't I rich damnit!? On a painting note, I am going to try to paint 1 model at a time to completion, as I posted earlier I've finished 1! (I also have that huge Reaper order to think about early next year) LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 05:13
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Hellbeard posted:Just an update on my sculpting progress: I dig the attention to detail. I hate, hate, when miniatures hold guns wrong. That guy holds the G36 exactly how I used too- tucked in elbow and everything!
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Nov 17, 2012 07:05
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Does anyone have any pictures of that forgeworld imperial navy fighter jet thing, scaled next to other models and or in its component parts I was thinking of blending a heldrake kit with one of them to make a 'young' heldrake so to speak
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Nov 17, 2012 07:05
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What is the brand of greenstuff that's way cheaper than the stuff from GW. It's kneadatite right? I have been using squadron putty to fill gaps, but i feel like something less grainy would be better.
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Nov 17, 2012 08:03
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LumberingTroll- Thanks! I bet if you took the time and invested yourself you could achieve a good solid level in any sort of creative medium. It's all about learning and practicing, really. Like painting miniature dudes for example. BULBASASUR - Heh, that's funny because on another forum I had received the comment that he was holding the gun too high what with the butt resting as it is on the very top of the nook in his shoulder. I did sort of screw up the pose because Germans hold their rifles all hunched up and sort of bent down a little. Thanks for the compliment. Fauxtool- Green Stuff and Yellow Blue Kneadatite is one and the same. Just have a search, I'm positive any other source other than GW will be way way cheaper. Also, considering how little you need to make a miniature it lasts for a really really long time.
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Nov 17, 2012 08:23
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Fauxtool posted:What is the brand of greenstuff that's way cheaper than the stuff from GW. It's kneadatite right? Yup, just check e-bay for kneadatite and other kinds of putty like milliput, white stuff and brown stuff.
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Nov 17, 2012 11:40
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Bad highlighting and a little sloppy paint aside, which I'll fix, I'm really proud of this lil guy! Finally assembling it after all that painting was totally satisfying. Not so proud of my bank statement since a week ago.
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Nov 17, 2012 13:50
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Guys...guys, I think I have a problem. I've started using a pin vise for the first time (actually bought a Citadel product, their drill is pretty good) to drill out the barrels on the Chaos guys I'm assembling. I, uh, think I'm addicted to drilling out barrels now. Next thing you know, I'll be pinning absolutely everything. Please help.
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Nov 17, 2012 14:02
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Fix posted:Been a while since I've pimped this stuff, but Cryla varnish is the paint-on-bomb. Does this suffer the same humidity issues as spray-on varnish or can I got to town no matter the weather?
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Nov 17, 2012 14:20
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krushgroove posted:Guys...guys, I think I have a problem. I've started using a pin vise for the first time (actually bought a Citadel product, their drill is pretty good) to drill out the barrels on the Chaos guys I'm assembling. I, uh, think I'm addicted to drilling out barrels now. Next thing you know, I'll be pinning absolutely everything. Please help.  Also: what do you recommend for priming with ~0 C temperature outside? Brush-on is out of the question, I'm poo poo at it. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 14:27
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Pierzak posted:Also: what do you recommend for priming with ~0 C temperature outside? Brush-on is out of the question, I'm poo poo at it. You're pretty much poo poo out of luck if you don't want to use brush-on.
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Nov 17, 2012 15:10
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Pierzak posted:You're doing a great job, carry on! Airbrush and Vallejo black/white/grey primer (I'm working on getting my setup ready, it's wet and cold in the UK until about April), or black/white/grey gesso. I used some cheap artist's gesso recently when paint wasn't sticking to some models (I'd sprayed way too much on) - put it on over the bad spray primer and it worked great. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 15:42
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krushgroove posted:Airbrush and Vallejo black/white/grey primer Pierzak fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 16:41
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Pierzak posted:That's what I thought, fortunately I have both but I hate to airbrush indoors and get paint mist everywhere. What do I need to do it safely, apart from a respirator? I've seen people use airbrush boxes, are they simply boxes with an air filter+fan in the back, or something more (what)? I'm going to use a large-ish cardboard box with a flap cut in it with a cheap desk fan pulling air through a couple of layers of cooker hood filter.
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Nov 17, 2012 17:20
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