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I saw a guy on a blue Ducati ST something wearing a nintendo power hoodie and thought you might be moonlighting on the bay bridge for some reason.
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Nov 13, 2012 05:44
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| # ? May 26, 2024 05:23 |
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Nintendo is for sucks. I had a Sega Master System.
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Nov 13, 2012 14:20
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Nintendo is for sucks. I had a Sega Master System. As a Ducati owner I should have expected to have the best of the best. Since you didn't have a NEOGEO home system you are plainly not suited for your bike. 
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Nov 13, 2012 15:32
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 gonna test it out tonight. after three winters, I need something more substantive than winter gloves. edit: after street/highway use, they are awesome. I can now wear my summer gloves again! the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Nov 14, 2012 |
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Nov 13, 2012 22:48
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Installed Factory Pro shift kit today. What a pain having to drain both the coolant and the oil. The instructions sure sound easy but man I hated every moment of this since I did the entire job alone in the morning, while it rained outside. No more missed shifts which was my problem to begin with. Seems not to mind me riding it a bit harder as well. Will post an update after a few thousand miles.
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Nov 17, 2012 04:58
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Slowly getting this bike back to proper. Rear pads were metal to the rotor when I bought the bike so I ordered some EBC cheapie pads (don't really use the rear brake except at stop lights) but when I went to replace them the rear pad retaining pin was beyond fused into the caliper. Had to grind the back of the caliper off to get the retaining pin out so I ordered an 05 R6 rear caliper to replace the current one for $15 shipped. Not gold, but gently caress it.    Tomorrow: fork seals and front pads.
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Nov 17, 2012 08:54
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BlackMK4 posted:... (don't really use the rear brake except at stop lights) ... Okay, opening a can of worms (and risking a ban), but, what? Proper balance of both brakes is absolutely essential, unless you're never in any kind of gravel, leaves, rain, oily roadway, or haze. Anyone who says that they "almost never use x brake" (front or rear, I've heard both) probably has some basic riding issues that need to be sorted. Why would you give up [30% or 70%] of your stopping power right off the bat for no reason?
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Nov 17, 2012 09:40
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Well, see, he uses the maximum possible front force and stoppies every single time so the rear brake just isn't doing anything anyway.
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Nov 17, 2012 09:42
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I know I was one of those people, but as you put it my only "riding issue" was limited street riding. I just didn't have the experience where I'd need it, everything I rode the front was enough.
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Nov 17, 2012 09:44
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Sagebrush posted:Well, see, he uses the maximum possible front force and stoppies every single time so the rear brake just isn't doing anything anyway. Pretty much. But no, and I don't know why it'd be risking a ban. I've never felt the risk of locking the rear up was worth the minimal additional possible braking it gives, but I've also ridden nothing but sportbikes that tend to heavily unweight the rear under braking. It's one more thing to worry about when I'm already dealing with no slipper clutch and dropping gears coming off a main straight under heavy braking or something. It's not really uncommon to use front brake only unless you're stopped or run off. I expect to be poo poo on for that though. http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=170770 http://www.motogp.com/en/news/2010/Braking+feature+with+Kevin+Schwantz Kevin Schwantz posted:For me it was always one or two fingers and just the front brake, I never used the rear brake at all.” BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 09:46
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If your front wheel washes out because of oil/slippery road markings etc though you're boned. you can stop a lot faster using both and I've not found the rear brake to be lacking at all. if it can lock the rear wheel it isn't too weak. Also, slipper clutches are for girls :P
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Nov 17, 2012 10:38
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I miss my slipper, bad.  Actually, it's not that bad but it was a really nice luxury, certainly makes you lazy though.What use is a locked wheel in terms of dry road stopping? Especially since you're supposed to keep it locked, lest it highside you if it regrips wrong while sideways.  No more evasive maneuvering.
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Nov 17, 2012 10:43
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It was a really rainy day, I was going around a low speed corner that banked outwards and right in the middle of the turn ... there is a goddamned painted arrow. I must've been doing 20-30km/hr and both wheels managed to lock up separately making me be all "oh god, what do I do!?" 1. Slowed down & straightened bike up before going over evil paint. 2. Front wheel started slipping. 3. Let go of front brakes. 4. Rear wheel starts slipping. 5. Let go of rear brakes. 6. Both goddamned wheels are slipping. Bike got laid down. The only damage to it was a bunch of stupid stratches & a bent passenger peg.  In this situation, what could I have done better?
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Nov 17, 2012 11:32
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BlackMK4 posted:Pretty much. I hate to say it man, but that's almost on the level of "grab the front brake and you'll be thrown over the bars" from the Harley crowd. quote:but I've also ridden nothing but sportbikes that tend to heavily unweight the rear under braking. It's one more thing to worry about when I'm already dealing with no slipper clutch and dropping gears coming off a main straight under heavy braking or something. Granted, going into hard braking you're not going to be slamming the rear brake in a 5-2 downshift, but not use it at all? Obviously this is down to technique, and I'll fully admit to being more towards the novice side on the track front, but I tend to use the rear brake to position the bike and shift weight, and bring it in a touch if I'm running wide in the turn or gently caress the apex. Dawdling around in traffic and crap on the street, I almost use the rear brake primarily, simply so I don't get an assful of the grille of the car behind me. quote:It's not really uncommon to use front brake only unless you're stopped or run off. I expect to be poo poo on for that though. Counterpoint, Nicky Hayden. That boy loves him some rear brake.
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Nov 17, 2012 14:18
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Rear brake usage is so controversial! Look at it this way and it will keep you out of trouble: Front Brake = Gross speed adjustment Rear Brake = Fine speed adjustment Rear break is very useful for low speed maneuvers. I have also used it (very lightly) when cornering to smooth out the throttle lash. I think it's worth practicing with, the key is to learn to not over apply it.
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Nov 17, 2012 16:58
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I often only use the front and sometimes only the rear or both. Just kind of depends on the kind of braking I am doing.
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Nov 17, 2012 17:45
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I use the rear brake any time it'd be better to lose traction on the rear than the front. Which ends up being quite a bit. Use it in the rain, use it when I'm coming to a stop at a stoplight while leaving the front brake in reserve in case it's needed, or in case I hit something slick, it's better to not be on the front brake and let the rear slide around. I very rarely use it on the track, basically only to hold down wheelies while staying pinned and when I run off into the dirt. Odette posted:It was a really rainy day, I was going around a low speed corner that banked outwards and right in the middle of the turn ... there is a goddamned painted arrow. Not gotten on the brakes, and stayed on the gas instead. The front wheel would have slipped a little but wouldn't have gone too far out of line because it's got a minimum of weight on it (still being driven by the back wheel, after all), and then when the back end hit it it would probably spin up a little but would catch nearly immediately as at 20-30km/hr you're only going to be over the line for a quarter second or so, so it's not going to get that far out of line. It might snap back in line, it might come back in smoothly, but either way it won't be a big deal. Staying off the brakes entirely and just riding through it would have probably been fine too. You're only over the line for a quarter second, most of the time the bike won't get far enough out of line to have it be a real issue. Z3n fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 20:30
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Z3n posted:I use the rear brake any time it'd be better to lose traction on the rear than the front. Which ends up being quite a bit. Use it in the rain, use it when I'm coming to a stop at a stoplight while leaving the front brake in reserve in case it's needed, or in case I hit something slick, it's better to not be on the front brake and let the rear slide around. This man speaks wisdom.
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Nov 17, 2012 21:53
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I had been putting off installing my grip heaters until about 2 weeks from now when I will be in the window for my 10k service, but the other day commuting to work it was 41 degrees and my weak little hands just couldn't take it anymore so I drank several beers and started ripping things apart. The kit was a generic Tusk mylar-style under grip heater with two heating elements that have to go under your grips, a 3 way switch, and a wire harness that uses a way too huge inline sand cast resistor to make one of the 'ON' positions full power and the other 'ON' position low power. I knew it was going to go okay because the dog beamed calming thoughts into my brain from across the garage:  In true generic bike part fashion, the wires for the heaters were a little too short and the wires for the switch/resistor were way too long, so I broke out the crimper and cut/spliced it all into workable lengths that would allow me to run the wires out of the way. Doing this required making my bike hold the predator face for a long time:  This was also a good opportunity to flip my throttle housing upside down so that I could relocate the right hand mirror off of the brake reservoir and give more slack now that I have bar risers. Unfortunately the side effect of that is my brake reservoir having to sit about a half an inch further inboard, so I've effectively lost a little bit of lever length. Time will tell how I like it. I took the internet's advice and wrapped a bunch of tape around the left hand bar before installing the heater on that side. I boiled the grips for a bit to make them easier to stretch onto the bars. The throttle one stays completely put with no glue. The clutch side had always rotated a bit since there was no glue on it from the factory, but now on the slippery heating element it was worse so I ended up gluing it in place. Easiest flat spot to mount the switch was on the right side of the dash. I'm 99% sure I will replace this with a low-mounting rocker switch but at least this will be easy to operate with gloves on in the mean time. It required a 1/2" hole which was made a lot easier by starting tiny and stepping up my drill bits one at a time. You can also see the new (yet unoccupied) mirror mounting hole in front of the reservoir.  One thing to think about if you do this is how get the wires immediately out of the grip, especially on the throttle side which will need to have some free slack hanging in a place that doesn't interfere with your hand as you gas it. You can see that unless you notch the throttle housing or your grip (I didn't) the inboard edge of your grip will be bent toward your hand due to the extra space required by each cable. I haven't ridden in the cold again yet but I can tell you these suckers get pretty hot, even through gloves. I wired it all into an accessory lead that is only hot when the ignition is on, and it's a good thing since I've already forgotten to turn them off twice in the few hours they've been installed. Now I just need a big puffy heated jacket and I'm set to kill my battery while riding! Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 23:39
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Put the fairing on & watched her being loaded on a flatbed to be taken off to a
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Nov 18, 2012 01:23
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Bought a Powerlet for my VFR and now I have my Valentine 1 wired for my bike!
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Nov 18, 2012 06:08
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What did I do with my ride today? I left it in a gas station parking lot overnight in another state and rode home on a friend's pillion seat because the charging system poo poo the bed! It's a Ducati with 27k miles, I guess it was due for something like that.
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Nov 19, 2012 04:48
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:What did I do with my ride today? I left it in a gas station parking lot overnight in another state and rode home on a friend's pillion seat because the charging system poo poo the bed! It's a Ducati with 27k miles, I guess it was due for something like that. Any bike I own for a significant period of time will get one of those LEDs that lights green when it's over 14v, yellow at 13v, and red when 12v or lower. Motomind had one on his WR250R, and I need to ask him about it so I can retrofit one to the wife's new bike.
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Nov 19, 2012 05:00
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Z3n posted:Any bike I own for a significant period of time will get one of those LEDs that lights green when it's over 14v, yellow at 13v, and red when 12v or lower. Motomind had one on his WR250R, and I need to ask him about it so I can retrofit one to the wife's new bike. This sounds awesome, I am also keen on something like this. Would it be possible to share the schematics/parts?
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Nov 19, 2012 05:23
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Stripped one of the sets of wheels of all paint in preparation for some ridiculous track colors. Sort of falling in love with the bare aluminum look though. 2013 track bike painting begins now... Also received my Ohlins. Yummy.
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Nov 19, 2012 05:29
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Yeah, I need to install either one of those LEDs or, to be somewhat more period correct, an analog voltmeter. Since my 350 has a terrible alternator, in case I get stuck with a dead battery I've been carrying around a charged-up 4s 3000mAh high-drain lithium polymer pack that I can use as a temporary jump-starter. You need a lithium smart charger to keep it charged safely, but the battery itself weighs only about 300 grams and will provide enough power to get the bike fired up all by itself. Batteries like this also hold a full charge for at least a year. You might consider doing the same and keeping it with your bike's tool kit or something. e: linked to a better product as long as your starter doesn't draw more than 60A Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 05:31
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Z3n posted:Any bike I own for a significant period of time will get one of those LEDs that lights green when it's over 14v, yellow at 13v, and red when 12v or lower. Motomind had one on his WR250R, and I need to ask him about it so I can retrofit one to the wife's new bike. Is that what that thing was. Was wondering why my wr didn't have a cool led on the front somewhere.
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Nov 19, 2012 08:49
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Odette posted:This sounds awesome, I am also keen on something like this. Would it be possible to share the schematics/parts? I was intrigued and googled around Here are 2 diy setups http://home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/VoltMonitor/GPZ3LEDvoltMonitor.html http://kd1jv.qrpradio.com/batmon/batmon.HTM And here is a commercial unit that flashes for high and low extremes http://signaldynamics.com/index.php/products/led-lighting?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=56&category_id=44 Seems like the commercial is worth it at $27
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Nov 19, 2012 11:26
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What I did yesterday. New rear tire and oil change on the SV, finally remembered to write down the mileage I changed the tire at so I can start tracking how long they last. Love the feeling of a new tire.
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Nov 19, 2012 13:58
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Pubic Lair posted:I was intrigued and googled around Yeah, that commercial one looks really good, but the second one of those DIY ones looks like something that would be pretty easy to pot and hide in a very small package in the headlamp housing. Hmm, where did I leave that soldering iron...
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Nov 19, 2012 21:09
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Pubic Lair posted:And here is a commercial unit that flashes for high and low extremes Thanks for this and to all for the discussion. I think I have finally found what to do with this:  Thread context. Purchased HH grade brake pads for install. gently caress off brake dust. 2x FA160HH for front 1x FA88HH for rear Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 21:33
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Pubic Lair posted:I was intrigued and googled around Looks like the SignalDynamics one is the one that motomind used. I'd be worried about that range though - if it shows green at 12.8v you could theoretically have charging issues where your battery slowly drains each time you start it without it ever showing bad. That's probably reaching crazy levels of paranoid though.
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Nov 20, 2012 01:28
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Z3n posted:if it shows green at 12.8v you could theoretically have charging issues where your battery slowly drains each time you start it without it ever showing bad. Why's that? A single fully charged lead-acid cell registers 2.105 volts, so a fully charged battery of six cells should be reading 12.63v. Obviously you would ideally want your charging voltage to be higher than that, 13-14, but if the LED is green you at least know that you're not draining it. e: also, today, Put the fully charged battery back in the bike. Attempted to start it up; got some grumbles and sputters but no real ignition. Figured I must have fouled the plugs last night with all the kicking sans ignition. Took the plugs out and cleaned them, and cycled the engine a dozen times with the plugs out to clear out vapor. (explained to the landlady's fascinated 7 year old grandson what I was doing -- he seems sharp). Put the plugs back in. Got the bike running with some vigorous throttle and choke application. Rode down the street; immediately obvious that something is wrong. No power, bike stalls at idle. Pull over, scratch head, make assumption. Start bike up, move individual throttle levers. Yep, right cylinder isn't firing. poo poo. Take out plugs, switch them around. Right cylinder still isn't firing. Double poo poo; is my coil blown? Remove right side HV line and hold it in hand. Restart bike. Arm jumps and fingers tingle. Yep, coil is fine. Puzzle about it some more. Spark is fine. Compression is probably fine. Fuel? Check right side carb. Hmm, there seems to be a bubble in the fuel line. Open float bowl drain and a few dribbles come out. Aha. Squeeze fuel line. Disconnect and reconnect line. Why isn't gas flowing into the carb? Check gas tank. Oh. Push bike back up the hill to the house. Park. Get in car with gas can, drive to gas station. You can figure it out from here. I really do like that my bike is a big mechanical puzzle that occasionally throws new challenges at me, but man it's good at making me feel like a dumbass too. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 04:24
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Well, if your charging system only puts out 12.7v, or whatever, and you ride it around, it's never going to charge a significant amount. So each time you put the battery under heavy load (like when you start it), you're draining it of charge it doesn't have charging time to recoup. Eventually, you go to start it and you get the dreaded click. But that's a seriously paranoid edge case. And you'd probably still be able to push start a few times to get you home.
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Nov 20, 2012 07:26
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I happened to see this LED charging monitor when searching for the same thing yesterday. Any concerns about the listed voltages for the different colors?
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Nov 20, 2012 17:02
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SimplyCosmic posted:I happened to see this LED charging monitor when searching for the same thing yesterday. Any concerns about the listed voltages for the different colors? That seems to address the edge case people were worrying about - you know definitively that the bike is charging when it's green. I wonder how easy it would be to integrate that with the (unused) ABS warning light on my dash? e: He also does this which lets you choose when it comes on with the different colours if you're really worried. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 17:38
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Thread: 1979 CB650. Today, I re-upholstered the CB650 using a seat cover and partial foam replacement from a donor 1978 CB400TII Hawk. The donor cover has a small rip, but even with a patch it looks 1000x better than the horrible aftermarket cover the old seat had. After that, I started moving tires from the Hawk to the 650, as the Hawk has/had brand new tires put on it right before garaging a year ago (BRAND NEW, still have the molding strings on them). If only the brakes on the 650 weren't 3x the size of the brakes on the 400, or I'd move the beautiful silver Comstars over to replace the 650's black ones. Tomorrow I'll finish mounting the front tire, maybe with some bigger tire spoons. I was having trouble with my 8" ones supplied with the motorcycle. I need some proper new tools, anyway. I also mounted the aftermarket luggage rack and seat bar from the Hawk to the 650, though it required drilling new holes in the luggage rack, as the 650's fender is a bit farther back than the 400 Twin's is. Now, to figure out how to mount the Hawk's turn signals onto the 650's weird, stick-like turn-signal mount stalks. Maybe vertically? I'll also move over the electronic LED flasher and LED 1156 bulbs to the 650 tomorrow. Cannibalizing motorcycles is fun when most parts are compatible. Honda really is the best for this!
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Nov 21, 2012 06:15
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1979 CB650 doubleteam After getting the bike starting and running like a champ, I moved on to the front brakes... What a loving disaster. The cover and the nylon reservoir were hosed with rust and warping in addition to being locked into the Master by completely rounded out screws. When I finally got the cover off it looked like someone there had thrown up a little into the master and then added some vaseline for good measure. There was no fluid, only sludge. I managed to clean it out and threw some clean Dot 4 into it just to see if it would pump. I undid the bleeder screw on the right side with some penetrating oil and swearing, I was not so lucky on the left side; the bleeder just snapped off in the caliper. At this point I'm weighing up the cost of a new reservoir/cover/rebuild kit versus a generic replacement master. Gonna be fun pulling that broken bleed screw this weekend 
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Nov 21, 2012 14:31
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Progress report on Operation Half Fairing: Plug is ready for some wax before fiberglass time.          Next up, time to shape a plug for the windshield. Someone stop this madness! 
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Nov 21, 2012 17:59
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| # ? May 26, 2024 05:23 |
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Not so much what i did but it seems some utter oval office tried to steal my bike last night. Was heading off to work this morning, went to take the disc lock off and it was a bit stubborn, this isn't anything big as its been out in the weather for 3 years and occasionally gets that way. Then i went to put the key in the ignition. That's strange didn't realise it was dented, now the key won't go in. Then i notice the steering lock is off which finally triggers that someone has been trying to steal it. Turns out if the steering lock has been disabled you still need the steering at full turn to be able to get the key in which worked for me. I gave it a good look over for any damage but couldn't see any. I also noticed it was now on neutral (i leave it in gear when parked). in short people are cunts and i need a bigger more obvious lock.
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Nov 21, 2012 22:24
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