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Pod patches are really easy to edit if you do it via PC instead of twiddling knobs or whatever.
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Nov 16, 2012 05:31
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muike posted:Pod patches are really easy to edit if you do it via PC instead of twiddling knobs or whatever. If you're just trying to fiddle with it while you're playing and not attached to your computer it doesn't really help, though. The Boss controls are pretty much just like having a bunch of pedals glued together. The POD knobs and buttons all do different stuff depending on what is on the screen and the info on the screen is not displayed in the most...obvious way. Anyway, I would just go to Guitar Center or where ever and mess around with several different units and see what you like. You can probably find most of the manuals online, as well.
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Nov 16, 2012 05:38
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cornface posted:If you're just trying to fiddle with it while you're playing and not attached to your computer it doesn't really help, though. The Boss controls are pretty much just like having a bunch of pedals glued together. The POD knobs and buttons all do different stuff depending on what is on the screen and the info on the screen is not displayed in the most...obvious way. Looking at Vox, Boss, Line 6, Digitech, and Zoom poo poo now after initial searches through amazon, are there any brands or models I should stay away from before I  and start doing comparisons and manual checks?
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Nov 16, 2012 08:25
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Guitarfetish is going to be listing a huge new batch of their factory buyout bodies and necks today. So said their Facebook post.
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Nov 16, 2012 18:12
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Allen Wren posted:$1200? You could probably get a Twin Reverb for that kind of money. Heck you could go on CL and get a twin reverb reissue and a nice couple of pedals for that much money. They only run like $800 used around here.
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Nov 17, 2012 05:01
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So I'm probably in a new band and need to gear up for it. Thinking about getting a Traynor yba-1 (kind of a cleaner plexi like amp) but I have no idea about what type of 4x12 cab to get, until now I've only used combo amps. I'm looking for something that has a pretty flat response range and is fairly tight sounding. The tone I'm looking for is kinda early my bloody valentine noisy stuff , so I'm dialing in the amp to be pretty midrange heavy. I use EQs and a few fuzzes, so a lot of my tone shaping also comes from that. Any suggestions on cabs/speakers? I am totally lost in how many options I have. Also something stackable is preferable, trying to full stack it eventually.
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Nov 17, 2012 05:57
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How does the Behringer HM300 compare to the original BOSS HM-2? I hear it's a straight clone pretty much and it's about 50 bucks cheaper since I wouldn't have to buy it off ebay.
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Nov 18, 2012 01:06
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I can't say from experience with those two pedals but given that it's a Behringer product you might end up having to replace it not too far down the line. Maybe wait a little bit and see if you can grab a hm2 at a good price on ebay. Dunno. Maybe that Behringer isn't a piece of poo poo like most others.
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Nov 18, 2012 01:14
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I usually keep my pedals organized and safe on a board but I'd prefer something that I don't have to worry about. $24 new seemed like too good of a deal anyway. I've never owned or knew anyone with a Behringer stuff so I kinda want to get it just for shits and grins. Thanks man.
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Nov 18, 2012 02:00
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I'm gonna feel like such a shitlord if someone pops in and goes "no it's actually really good and sounds amazing"
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Nov 18, 2012 02:11
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I've been looking to buy some gorilla snot to help with slippery picks, but I can't find any locally and I am too impatient to order online. Do any of you know any homemade alternatives?
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Nov 18, 2012 03:49
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Have you tried any other methods? What kind of picks do you use?
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Nov 18, 2012 05:24
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Hot Yellow KoolAid posted:I've been looking to buy some gorilla snot to help with slippery picks, but I can't find any locally and I am too impatient to order online. Do any of you know any homemade alternatives? Have you tried drilling holes in them? Or buying picks that aren't so slippery?
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Nov 18, 2012 05:33
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I had issues with picks rotating on me for years but my technique eventually developed to take care of the issue. The biggest thing for me was focusing on picking exercises and staying with a single material and thickness. I can't imagine playing with picks that were literally sticky. I keep a very loose and relaxed grip and I need my pick to kind of float while I'm playing or I can't play well. edit: I should also mention that my hands sweat so much that I'll literally have sweat dripping off of them when I play. Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 05:37
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Other than holes, you could sandpaper them.
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Nov 18, 2012 05:39
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You can take a razor to 'em and put some crosshatched grooves, too, depending on what you've got.
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Nov 18, 2012 05:47
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So I picked up Rocksmith recently and although I've been playing guitar for years, it has really spurred me to return to a regular practicing schedule. In the last week I've been playing the game for between 3 and 4 hours a day. I noticed yesterday I had a mild aching sensation coming from my left (fretting) index finger concentrated mostly in the first joint but also in the knuckle. The pain isn't very intense, but I'm wondering if anyone is familiar with the specific issue. I'm twenty-four and haven't had much experience with joint pain outside of this incident. I played again today and noticed the pain was slightly more noticeable. Do I stop practicing for a time? George Sex - REAL fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 21:21
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Dorkopotamis posted:So I picked up Rocksmith recently and although I've been playing guitar for years it has really spurred me into return to a regular practicing schedule. In the last week I've been playing the game for between 3 and 4 hours a day. Could be mild arthritis or tendonitis but that's the kinda thing to ask a doctor about if it's getting worse. It's likely that you're just playing too much but it could be really serious.
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Nov 18, 2012 21:25
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Alright, thanks for the help. I have another question about how to determine what key a song is in, and what diatonic harmonica to pick to accompany it. I play a song that (I think) is in the key of F#, and I am trying to pick the right harmonica. I saw a conversion chart at the music store that recommends a harp in the key of Bb for a song in the key of F. From this, I am assuming that for a song in F# I should just get a harp in the key of B. I'm not %100 that my song is in the key of F# though. I play 1.5 steps tuned down (C# F# B E G# C#), and from this tuning the song just uses regular open chords (that in EADGBE tuning would be) A -> D -> F#m -> A -> D -> F#m -> A -> E -> A -> A7 -> D -> Dm -> A -> E -> A. Am I correct to assume this song is in the key of F#? (I can link to a recording if needed)
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Nov 19, 2012 00:28
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It looks like it's in F#, yeah (A major transposed down 3 semitones, lots of I and IV and V and the vi). As far as harmonicas go there are F# ones, but you probably want one in B so you can play crossharp, like these people are saying: http://www.fetherbay.com/HarpTutorial.html (hey wassup RealPlayer!) Basically (and I'm only going off what I'm reading here) playing that way on a B harp gives you easy access to the F# mixolydian scale, which is the major scale with a flat 7th. Since you're using that note with your I7 chord (the note that makes it a 7 instead of a maj7) it should fit in better and match with the song.
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Nov 19, 2012 01:59
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muike posted:I can't say from experience with those two pedals but given that it's a Behringer product you might end up having to replace it not too far down the line. Maybe wait a little bit and see if you can grab a hm2 at a good price on ebay. Dunno. Maybe that Behringer isn't a piece of poo poo like most others. As a former hardline Behringer hater, I will say their quality control has gone up in the last couple of years. It's still cheap gear, but at least it's not as guaranteed to break (or burst into flames) as some of their gear from the last 10 years or so.
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Nov 19, 2012 02:57
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Can some folks post pics of the relief on their guitar necks? I'm trying to teach myself proper truss rod adjustment but my OCD/worry is kicking in that I'm not doing it right. I need to get a set of those measurement tools as well I suppose.
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Nov 19, 2012 21:33
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This is a bit of an open-ended question, but here goes - I've got an old 70's english branded 18w all-tube combo amp with a 15" greenback celestion in it. I've got an SSS strat. Clean, it sounds like the mutt's nutts, but I'd like some overdrive and fuzz. Should I put my money into an amp head that overdrives naturally (i.e. Orange Micro Terror, Blackstar HT-1) and hook it into the celestion, or should I focus on finding some nice overdrive and fuzz pedals? Here's my guitar: 
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Nov 19, 2012 21:48
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This sounds like a job... for a Big Muff! Spend a few bucks, get some pedals.
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Nov 19, 2012 21:59
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Stupid question but here goes: I've got a Fender Mexi-strat that came with a set of nines on it. Can I restring it with tens as it is or will I have to fiddle with the nut / truss rod first? I don't imagine I would as I keep it in standard tuning, but I just want to check first. Also, have any UK-goons ordered pickups from Guitar Fetish? If so, how was the shipping time?
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Nov 19, 2012 21:59
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Sadsack posted:Stupid question but here goes: You should be fine moving to 10's without doing anything else. I would put some graphite in the nut slots to keep the strings from binding up if you use the trem at all, though. If you are worried about it and have a decent tuner and a little screwdriver you can easily test and adjust the intonation yourself afterwards, but it probably won't be necessary.
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Nov 19, 2012 22:05
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Sadsack posted:Stupid question but here goes: You might have problems with the trem and truss rod but those are things that are easier to fix after you change the gauge/tuning. Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:Can some folks post pics of the relief on their guitar necks? I don't know how everyone else likes it, but I prefer the neck to be even and straight so the action is the same all over the neck. So really any straight object (ruler, level, 2x4, whatever) can be used to check it, but honestly the easiest way to check it is to just put your eye up to the nut and stare at the bridge and see if it bows at all. Replacing a trussrod/neck is expensive as hell, so I'd say practice on a lovely guitar of yours before trying this on any guitar your care about. Otherwise just take it to a shop and be specific with what you want.
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Nov 20, 2012 03:53
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Francostein posted:You might have problems with the trem and truss rod but those are things that are easier to fix after you change the gauge/tuning. You're right but how dumb does someone have to be to turn a truss rod hard enough for it to damage the neck? I mean you have to turn well past the point where a normal person would stop and say "yeah, I should be having use this much to turn this". Honestly for truss rods, my rule is never turn it more than 1/8 of a turn between checking, and STOP if you feel real resistance.
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Nov 20, 2012 04:23
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HollisBrown posted:You're right but how dumb does someone have to be to turn a truss rod hard enough for it to damage the neck? I mean you have to turn well past the point where a normal person would stop and say "yeah, I should be having use this much to turn this". You do have to go pretty hard in order to break it, but I just like to give a warning that they're expensive as hell to replace/fix compared to a bridge saddle or something with the electronics. I'm not trying to scare the guy, but it is something to be cautious about, like you said.
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Nov 20, 2012 04:44
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Francostein posted:I don't know how everyone else likes it, but I prefer the neck to be even and straight so the action is the same all over the neck. So really any straight object (ruler, level, 2x4, whatever) can be used to check it, but honestly the easiest way to check it is to just put your eye up to the nut and stare at the bridge and see if it bows at all. Replacing a trussrod/neck is expensive as hell, so I'd say practice on a lovely guitar of yours before trying this on any guitar your care about. Otherwise just take it to a shop and be specific with what you want. Keeping it straight is alright if you have a fairly high action, but if you want it lower it is going to make the strings buzz because they vibrate in a wider pattern in the middle of the neck, which is why you generally want some relief in it. Also, if you just want to change the action, adjust your saddles before monkeying with the truss rod. It should probably be the last thing you screw with to get rid of buzzing or fretting out once you have the action basically where you want it.
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Nov 20, 2012 04:57
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cornface posted:Keeping it straight is alright if you have a fairly high action, but if you want it lower it is going to make the strings buzz because they vibrate in a wider pattern in the middle of the neck, which is why you generally want some relief in it. I disagree I always go truss rod->saddles->intonation. I set the truss rod by capoing at the first and pressing down at the 13th fret and using an automotive feeler at the 8th to check for clearance, I like to have about .012" of clearance at the 8th fret. Then take off the capo and check the clearance at the 12th I like about 7/64 at the 12th. If you still get buzzing it's generally either the height at the nut or the angle of the neck. To check the height at the nut press down on the 3rd fret and check for clearance over the 1st fret, there should be just a tad, like the smallest feeler gauge amount. Checking the neck angle is harder and shimming the neck is last resort and kind of a pain or just flat out impossible on a set neck or neck through.
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Nov 20, 2012 06:06
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The back of my neck and the strings have gotten really greasy, what should I use to clean them?
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Nov 21, 2012 07:37
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1: euuguuauguuguahuahuagahuaaaagh 2. just wipe them down with a microfiber cloth or something and change yer goddamn strings.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:38
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muike posted:1: euuguuauguuguahuahuagahuaaaagh Yeah it's gross I know, I just have the worst goddamned skin.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:42
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My hands sweat like nothin else so I've taken up using coated strings and also wiping down my strings and neck after I play every time. I'm actually getting a reasonable lifespan out of my strings and they don't get all gross and terrible.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:44
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muike posted:My hands sweat like nothin else so I've taken up using coated strings and also wiping down my strings and neck after I play every time. I'm actually getting a reasonable lifespan out of my strings and they don't get all gross and terrible. On the other hand, coated strings may not be for everybody, as they may feel too "slippery" for some. I noticed that my fingers can slip off the thicker strings when trying to land my fingertips directly on them.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:55
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I've been meaning to try out the Ernie Ball Cobalts, they seem like they might be the best of both worlds.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:58
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muike posted:I've been meaning to try out the Ernie Ball Cobalts, they seem like they might be the best of both worlds. I swear by this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Fingerease-2074-Guitar-String-Lubricant/dp/B0002GW3Y8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353501634&sr=8-1&keywords=finger+ease It's basically alcohol mixed with a tiny bit of lemon oil. It smells amazing, keeps strings clean, and lubricated and at least doubles their useful life. I go through about 4 cans a year so it's not a very expensive habit.
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Nov 21, 2012 13:43
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I also vote for wiping everything down every time you play. Doesn't take long and it keeps everything relatively clean.
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Nov 21, 2012 14:29
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Pyrthas posted:I also vote for wiping everything down every time you play. Doesn't take long and it keeps everything relatively clean.
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Nov 21, 2012 16:44
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