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power posted:I can't really take the risk on it any more as I'm going back to school and won't have the kind of money sitting around required to drive it. It was a blast to drive, and I'll most likely be getting a (newer) BMW once I finish up this degree. For now I've still got a 2008 civic that upon my last inspection under the car, isn't going to cost me a cent any time soon. Going to try to find somewhere that will rebuild that alternator cheap and throw it on the market. I've got a set of 17" style 5's that came with it that I may sell separately once I clean them up and if I decide to I'll post them here. Ah, you crazy Canadian goons... What does it cost you to hang on to it and drive it occasionally? I would bet you that once you get this alternator sorted out, your going to have a decent car again. Its completely your choice, but I wouldn't give up on it just yet. You have just pretty much sorted out all the problems that this car has and potentially may have.... E39's are pretty rock solid cars once you get their nuances taken care of. If its paid for, ask your insurance to just put storage insurance on it (again, I am not sure how Canada works, but I assume its fairly similar to the US), start it up every so often and go from there.
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Nov 18, 2012 22:49
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power posted:They did long ago to my knowledge - and there was no evidence other than VCGs of any trouble with them. East coast as in ontario, or east coast as in atlantic canada? I might be interested in taking a look if you're in the maritimes.
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Nov 18, 2012 23:10
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So I bought this today. 1995 530i. I spent the afternoon taking the peeling tint off with a steamer.  
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Nov 18, 2012 23:15
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Found a 1999 M3 (manual) with 80k miles in the color I want. I know very little regarding common issues for this car at this age, what should I really be looking for issues wise?
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Nov 19, 2012 00:18
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Koirhor posted:Found a 1999 M3 (manual) with 80k miles in the color I want. I know very little regarding common issues for this car at this age, what should I really be looking for issues wise? Your wallet. They have a ton of tiny issues but nothing showstopping. They will nickel and dime you but it will be worth it. E: Some issues to knock the price around; has vanos been rebuilt? Are there full service records? Have any of the suspension bushings been done? o2 sensors? (there's 4!) control arms (wear item on these cars)? Rear shock mounts? What has been done to the cooling system? (correct answer is water pump and thermostat housing). revmoo fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 00:24
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Does anybody know how much e90 LCI halogen lights would normally cost?
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Nov 19, 2012 00:26
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Crustashio posted:East coast as in ontario, or east coast as in atlantic canada? I might be interested in taking a look if you're in the maritimes. BrokenKnucklez posted:Ah, you crazy Canadian goons... What does it cost you to hang on to it and drive it occasionally? I would bet you that once you get this alternator sorted out, your going to have a decent car again. Its completely your choice, but I wouldn't give up on it just yet. It is sort of paid for, I owe a family member a couple grand on it - and that family member isn't too impressed with the trouble I've had with it, so there is a bit of pressure there to get rid of it as well. If I had somewhere to store it I'd consider hanging on to it as a summer car -- I was very close to purchasing a used sea container from my employer but couldn't find anywhere (cheap) to plop it down. The fact that I've pretty much covered all of the common issues and it could be problem free for a significant period of time does trouble me. It's quite possible the next owner is going to get a very good deal considering the money I've put into it. If I had all of that work done at a shop I can't imagine how much it would have cost me. power fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 00:42
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power posted:New Brunswick actually. I was commuting it to Cape Breton all summer. I think you're in NS somewhere if I remember correctly? It's good from afar but from from good body wise, and that splash guard isn't done yet either. I don't know that you'd be that interested in it given the body condition and wouldn't want to waste your time if so. It's also an auto... Eh, yeah I'm definitely not interested if it's an auto.
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Nov 19, 2012 00:50
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I didn't figure as much. I am not a fan of automatics but made an exception on that car. You'll see I edited my previous posting, and when you sum up all of the little things I wouldn't have felt good about potentially selling to a fellow goon or friend.
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Nov 19, 2012 01:05
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revmoo posted:Your wallet. They have a ton of tiny issues but nothing showstopping. They will nickel and dime you but it will be worth it. So, so worth it. I loving love my '99 M3.
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Nov 19, 2012 01:42
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Definitely not. It looked just like this: 
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Nov 19, 2012 01:46
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Koirhor posted:Found a 1999 M3 (manual) with 80k miles in the color I want. I know very little regarding common issues for this car at this age, what should I really be looking for issues wise? Take a look at the Edge Motoworks 75K checklist. I wouldn't be surprised if the car still had the original suspension and clutch. The cooling system has hopefully been replaced and if it hasn't you'll want to do it the day you get the car. 80K is pretty low mileage. What's the asking price? You can find cars that need nothing with ~120K miles for 10K all day long.
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Nov 19, 2012 01:55
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Super Camper posted:Does anybody know how much e90 LCI halogen lights would normally cost? $510 for halogen $938 for bixenon $1143 for bixenon + adaptive headlights
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Nov 19, 2012 04:08
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BlackMK4 posted:$510 for halogen Holy crap, thats a bit much. I thought the halogen LCI lights would be cheaper than that. I may have to buy aftermarket lights. Does anybody know any reputable companies that specialize in aftermarket lights?
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Nov 19, 2012 04:13
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DEPO time 
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Nov 19, 2012 04:24
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juche mane posted:DEPO time They're an Ebay store aren't they? I heard DEPO lights weren't that great and that they sometimes collect a lot of condensation.
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Nov 19, 2012 04:25
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Super Camper posted:Holy crap, thats a bit much. I thought the halogen LCI lights would be cheaper than that. I may have to buy aftermarket lights. Check ebay for used OEM lights. That's where I got my e36 and e46 lights for about 1/2 of the new price. I've pretty much been scared away from ANY aftermarket headlights with the horror stories I've been told. Especially DEPO. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 04:27
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Crustashio posted:Check ebay for used OEM lights. That's where I got my e36 and e46 lights. I've pretty much been scared away from ANY aftermarket headlights with the horror stories I've been told. Especially DEPO. Man I'd really like to get my hands on a pair of used OEM Xenon lights. But they go for about 800-1100$ a pair.
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Nov 19, 2012 04:29
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Super Camper posted:They're an Ebay store aren't they? I heard DEPO lights weren't that great and that they sometimes collect a lot of condensation. I think they're considered hit and miss. The kind of thing that you buy when you just can't spend a lot of money. I got a pair of euro style Depo tail lights for my E34 from a junkyard and you can tell they're not as high quality as HELLAs but they look and function just fine.
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Nov 19, 2012 04:30
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FIRST TIME posted:I think they're considered hit and miss. The kind of thing that you buy when you just can't spend a lot of money. No problem with condensation?
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Nov 19, 2012 04:31
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I need the bottom line on what's going to be the easiest way to unbolt the thrust arm from the frame on my E34. I've read a few different things involving PB Blaster and torches but I'm getting frustrated and want to hear what the AI approved Best Method is before I try a bunch of stuff. This bitch is stuck as a motherfucker and I'm only partway through replacing one side of my car's suspension. I really want to get this car back on the road.
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Nov 19, 2012 04:34
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Super Camper posted:No problem with condensation? Not that I can tell but it's a tail light on an older car. I'd imagine that a headlight on a new car is more complex and condensation would be more noticeable/an issue.
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Nov 19, 2012 04:38
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Yeah, I wouldn't buy Depo junk for an E90. Hell, I budgeted for OEM (Bosch glass) for my E36. The plastics on Depo stuff are of notably lower quality.
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Nov 19, 2012 04:53
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Ok, no Depo stuff then. Looks like I'll have to save up for some nice OEM xenons.
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Nov 19, 2012 05:25
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Realjones posted:Take a look at the Edge Motoworks 75K checklist. I wouldn't be surprised if the car still had the original suspension and clutch. The cooling system has hopefully been replaced and if it hasn't you'll want to do it the day you get the car. It's being sold by the local Acura Dealership here in town, the current advertised price is 13700, we have some good local BMW shops in town that can probably do a pre purchase inspection if the dealership allows me to take it for an hour or so. I figure the asking price is pretty high unless everything on your list has been done fairly recently.
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Nov 19, 2012 16:29
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Anyone have any experiences with "bmwmercedesparts"? I'm getting my E46 ready for sale, and I need a few parts to make sure its in retail condition. I placed an order over two weeks ago and they still haven't shipped. They charged my credit card a long time ago though. I shot them another email and if I don't hear back in the next day I'm just going to file a chargeback because these people seem like crooks.
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Nov 19, 2012 20:04
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Bank posted:Anyone have any experiences with "bmwmercedesparts"? Plenty of people have had similar experiences. Also, you aren't supposed to charge a card before shipment (per most merchant agreements). Just call them and tell them you are canceling the order and they have until the end of the day before you do a charge back. And follow through.
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Nov 19, 2012 20:18
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Ol' 1995 E36 continues to be a more or less reliable car, BUUUUUT..... Replaced the radiator last week due to a hole. I'm now getting highway and/or 'stuck in commute' overheating. It bopped around town fine the other night, but today took me 90 mins to get 20 miles due to it running hot. It will hold at the 'thermostat point' for about 5-10 minutes but then start to creep up, slowly but steadily. It does take a while to cool down; the system seems to be getting pretty hot, although we are not getting enough pressure to pop the cap. The fires of hell blow steadily through the heater, which is set wide open. I've bled and bled, and I'm here to ask if I'm missing anything besides "bleed it again"? Water pump has ~500 miles on it, thermostat has about 3000. Upper hose is new, lower is older but good. 50/50 water/antifreeze. Clutch fan is removed and we have an aftermarket puller fan always-on. The system ran A-OK through the 105F summer and I don't think it's a fan issue. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 21:14
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Motronic posted:Plenty of people have had similar experiences. Also, you aren't supposed to charge a card before shipment (per most merchant agreements). Just call them and tell them you are canceling the order and they have until the end of the day before you do a charge back. And follow through. That's what I figured. They don't have a merchant agreement with a major processor, (they used Square) so I figure it's the wild wild west over there. They responded and said they will send it overnight on Tuesday, but I don't have much faith with that. If they don't give me a tracking number by then I will just submit a chargeback. Thanks! I guess the lesson is not to save a couple of bucks with a shady dealer.
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Nov 19, 2012 21:40
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Jonny 290 posted:Ol' 1995 E36 continues to be a more or less reliable car, BUUUUUT.....
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Nov 19, 2012 21:50
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Bank posted:They don't have a merchant agreement with a major processor, (they used Square) Wow....they must be really small. You can't pull out more than like $2k of consumer not present transaction cash for more than 30 days after the sale with them. Fine for someone selling chotchkies at the flea market, not so much for online auto parts sales.
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Nov 19, 2012 21:55
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Kenshin posted:My M3 had issues with overheating in bad traffic until I got the clutch fan replaced with a new one. I have to wonder if you might have had other issues but a good fan was enough to keep it cool enough. These cars should technically be able to run without one, and the lower t-switch on the FDM kits doesn't do that much. Johnny it sounds like either an air bubble, blockage or water pump problem. How did you bleed it? The hole at the top of the surge tank should be basically constantly pissing once it's bled right.
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Nov 19, 2012 22:48
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revmoo posted:I have to wonder if you might have had other issues but a good fan was enough to keep it cool enough. These cars should technically be able to run without one, and the lower t-switch on the FDM kits doesn't do that much. I did the same thing I always do on this thing, which is: -Park on upward slope (front of car highest) -Fill via funnel through upper rad hose until fluid comes out of the top radiator hole -Connect upper rad hose to radiator -Reservoir to KALT with bleeder open -Start car, heater wide open -Massage upper hose until it's just moving fluid -Bounce front of car up and down -Revs to 2000 or so, holding for a few seconds -Cap on around thermostat temp -Bleeder screw in after we get nothing but fluid from a top hose squeeze I've been slowly bleeding it more throughout today in the parking lot, and am getting virtually no bubbles. For a while I was getting bubbles, but it was warm enough that I wasn't sure if it was steam or air. Rolling out in ~45 mins, hopefully she'll play nicer on the way home. If not, I swear to god I am going to hang the front of the car from the rafters to bleed it.
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Nov 19, 2012 22:54
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Koirhor posted:It's being sold by the local Acura Dealership here in town, the current advertised price is 13700 The asking price is high, but it is fair considering it's at a dealership and lower mileage examples do command a premium. It is somewhat ironic that lower mileage cars sell for more, yet (beyond the total beater m3s) tend to have the most "deferred" maintenance that will make owning them more expensive than if you bought a car with 30K more miles that needed nothing. I wouldn't be surprised if someone paid 12K for it just because of the low mileage and 99 regardless of what original parts it is still rocking. Jonny 290 posted:Ol' 1995 E36 continues to be a more or less reliable car, BUUUUUT..... Did you put water wetter in the new coolant? Maybe put the clutch fan back on and see if that's the issue (it would eliminate a bad bleed problem at least)?
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Nov 19, 2012 23:04
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Update: GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM. About 7 miles the temp starts to creep; I pull over to a gas station and let it cool. I do notice that the radiator isn't really hot, and the lower hose is cold. Top hose is HOT and very pressurized. I let it cool, bleed out a few more bubbles, and take off, suspecting pump or thermostat. Temp creeps after just a couple of miles, and just as I turn off the next EXIT...ZOOP! and the needle drops to dead center and stays there for 15 more miles, many of them at lower revs and higher load (I have found this illuminates water pump failures very quickly). No wiggles. Is it possible I have a sticky thermostat? I'm going to let it cool with the hood popped and try to get it down to ambient tonight, and do another warmup/drive test around midnight. Suspecting that yes, I did just need to bleed it some more; keep fingers crossed for me.
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Nov 20, 2012 00:18
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Jonny 290 posted:I did the same thing I always do on this thing, which is: E36 radiator bleeding is some magic skill. When I did the new radiator for my 328 I jacked the front end, filled the reservior to kalt, and turned the heater on full blast with the engine running. Let it idle while I bled it (and filled it up) once in awhile. When the temperature mark hit the middle section and stayed steady I stopped trying to bleed it. Seems to have worked, but it really shouldn't be that hard. No matter what I did, every time I opened the bleed screw I got bubbling.
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Nov 20, 2012 00:19
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when you can burn yourself on the heat from the climate control, you've probably almost finished bleeding an e36. 
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Nov 20, 2012 00:20
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Seriously, with the combo of picky cooling and those eternal screams of IF IT HITS RED YOU MIGHT AS WELL GET A NEW HEAD DROP SHIPPED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD it's a traumatic experience. Not sure if Gertie Mae's coming back from this one,Pa....oh never mind, she's fine.
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Nov 20, 2012 00:29
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Here's my method: Assemble completely, fill surge tank. Jack up front. Start engine. Heater set to max. A/C on to make warming up faster. Remove bleed screw. Top off surge tank constantly, keep it at the point of overflowing. Level will drop over time, keep topping off. Make a mess when it does overflow and hit the fan. Keep it totally filled. Squeeze upper hose a bunch of times. Rev engine at throttle body, hold around 2-3k by ear. Once you see the tiny stream at the top of the surge tank running constantly you should shortly see your bleed hole running clear of bubbles. Squeezing hoses and revving motor, wait until bleed screw runs clear and close screw. Keep the revs up and the stream running. You really need to take your time on this step. Then, remove a couple oz from the surge (or rev the crap out of the motor like I do and just let it spill out, and then cap off. At this point the surge tank will be overfilled but not 100% full. Go drive the car somewhat hard to test and make sure it's good. Feel free to crack the bleeder and get some more air out if you want, but what I've found is that you can actually keep a fair amount of air at the top of the system without issue. I've actually stopped even bothering getting the last of the air out the next day. Anyway, drive it a couple days and then check the level. I've found that I almost always end up having to top it off to Kalt the next morning even after leaving it nearly full initially. Your car may vary. I think the most important part of the process is the overfilled surge during the bleed, and the revving of the motor.
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Nov 20, 2012 04:35
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Is there any reason why the Xenon ignitors and fog lights on an e46 would be related? Because as I wait to get around to replacing my ignitor, I turned on the fog light the other day in order to throw a bit more light when my left xenon doesn't come on. So I turn the headlights on (left stays off) and as soon as I turn the fog light on, the left xenon ignites! This has happened a good 3 times from cold start so far. Really weird!
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Nov 23, 2012 06:34
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