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tonedef131 posted:Does that poo poo run on 3 phase? My work has an Acer bridgeport that we don't need anymore and I am thinking about buying it but I have no idea what it would cost to get 3 phase set up at the shop. Has anyone ever had 3 phase brought in where only 2 phase was in use before? If you're lucky enough to live right across the street from a three phase line you might be able to get the power company to drop you a feeder, otherwise it'd cost out the rear end. Your best bet would be a rotary converter, which is basically a single phase motor hooked up to drive a three phase generator.
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Nov 19, 2012 16:04
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Do you guys use touchmarks on your work? Is that a thing people still do? I mean, I'm nowhere remotely close to needing a touchmark, but I'm making a nice kitchen knife for our lab white elephant gift exchange and I was going to take it to an engraver (for the lab name/year, stupid stuff like that) but it also occurred to me that I might want to put my mark on it as well. This is obviously super-conceited, but dammit I worked hard on that knife and I want people to know. Or should I just forget about it for now?
sephiRoth IRA fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 21:05
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areyoucontagious posted:Do you guys use touchmarks on your work? Is that a thing people still do? I mean, I'm nowhere remotely close to needing a touchmark, but I'm making a nice kitchen knife for our lab white elephant gift exchange and I was going to take it to an engraver (for the lab name/year, stupid stuff like that) but it also occurred to me that I might want to put my mark on it as well. This is obviously super-conceited, but dammit I worked hard on that knife and I want people to know. Or should I just forget about it for now? Like making your own stamp/marker's mark, then stamping that on the nice knife? Do it, then post pics. I was thinking of making a cool mark myself. I think they are awesome 
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Nov 19, 2012 23:12
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I'm running a VFD on my 2hp Bridgeport. Takes Single Phase 220v in and put outs 220v 3 phase.
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Nov 19, 2012 23:21
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Uncle Enzo posted:Like making your own stamp/marker's mark, then stamping that on the nice knife? Do it, then post pics. I was thinking of making a cool mark myself. I think they are awesome Yeah exactly! I mean, I've seen some cool work that totally merited the guy's (or girl's) stamp, but I feel a little silly thinking I need one. That said, I've also seen some cool touchmarks that got me all geared up to make my own. I've read a few tutorials, and I think I can re-purpose an old chisel. I have an idea for a touchmark, but I don't know how on-the-ball my filing skills are. We'll see how it works out, I guess, and I'll definitely post pics if I decide to do it. Edit: Unless your post was sarcastic and my sarcasto-meter is on the fritz.
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Nov 19, 2012 23:50
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areyoucontagious posted:Yeah exactly! I mean, I've seen some cool work that totally merited the guy's (or girl's) stamp, but I feel a little silly thinking I need one. That said, I've also seen some cool touchmarks that got me all geared up to make my own. I've read a few tutorials, and I think I can re-purpose an old chisel. I have an idea for a touchmark, but I don't know how on-the-ball my filing skills are. We'll see how it works out, I guess, and I'll definitely post pics if I decide to do it. No sarcasm at all, I think it's cool. You're making cool, usable things, and I think if you have both the skills to make a touchmark and something reasonably nice to put it on, then go for it. Plus maker's marks are cool later on, I wish there were any markings at all on my postvise. As it is, I have to guess at manufacturing date and such from the styling. I'd love if it had a year/name on it. Who knows how long a good knife will stick around, mark that thing.
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Nov 20, 2012 00:21
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I designed my logo around being turned into a maker's mark eventually. A maker's mark is the one vanity every single metalworker is allowed to go nuts with, so feel free to do so. I wouldn't mind doing one eventually- I was thinking of etching the face of a punch with my mark (wrap everything except the petrolatum-masked end with electrical tape) and seeing if the bite was deep enough to make a decent imprint. Look up historical marks- it's kinda humbling how simple and subtle the great European armourer's marks were, for example.
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Nov 20, 2012 00:37
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What a coincidence. I've been sourcing materials to make a mark for myself too. I'll do up a pictorial if it turns out.
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Nov 21, 2012 18:20
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Well woudja lookit what Busy Bee Tools has just added to their inventory!! http://www.busybeetools.com/products/METALCRAFT-TOOL-SET.html Chinese models of all three coldworking twisting/bending/rolling tools I was gawking at the other day for $200. Fate smiles on me this day~
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Nov 21, 2012 21:26
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Well woudja lookit what Busy Bee Tools has just added to their inventory!! Oh, I was just thinking about you the other day. I came across this: http://www.bend-art.com No clue on the pricing, though, it's all "request a quote," which usually means "we're too embarrassed to post our prices," but hey, might be worth looking into. They have some neat tools there.
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Nov 21, 2012 21:44
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Is 3/8" uselessly light for 'architectural' stuff? I don't mean, like, loadbearing important stuff, but fence pickets, a gate panel, whatever. 'Cause it would be super-rad to pair this with my oxy-acetylene equipment and be able to say that I do large-scale work too. Also, how are those weirdo 1/4 HP hybrid bench grinder/belt sander setups? I really want a belt sander/grinder so I can do knives and blades and stuff with less frustration, but especially to be able to grind aluminium without worrying about my grinding wheel exploding. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Nov 21, 2012 |
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Nov 21, 2012 22:35
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I just finished my first semester of my Machining course. Here is my final project just after I took my last cut:  I did polish up the taper a bit with some emery cloth after I took teh picture. I was 1 of 2 people in a class of 15 that finished every project. Next semester we move on to advanced lathe work, surface grinding, and heat treating. Also, I thought you guys might be interested in seeing before/after shots of a Cornet I got to work on last week. It was a challenging repair because the tube was twisted so badly. It is very easy to buckle it when untwisting, as well as put really ugly bulges in it when smoothing the dents.        
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Nov 22, 2012 02:11
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Brekelefuw posted:I just finished my first semester of my Machining course. You got to use a lathe first semester? So jelly. So far I've logged about 300 classroom hours of hand filing plus 25 on a drill press and maybe 10 each on a manual VMM and  horizontal shaper.
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Nov 22, 2012 02:37
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The course is a 3 semester course that gives me a "Machinist Certificate" it isn't a typical apprentice-journeyman-foreman style training program. I don't really know what that means in regards to becoming a machinist, but I am not planning on becoming one, so it doesn't really matter what the paper says. I just need the skills. So far we did lathe, milling machine, drill press, as well as how to use a variety of measuring tools. EDIT: we also ground our own tool bits to turn the final project. Standard cutting bit, 90 degree, 60 degree threading, 1/8 inch radius and .120 groove. Brekelefuw fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Nov 22, 2012 |
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Nov 22, 2012 02:51
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The Proc posted:So far I've logged about 300 classroom hours of hand filing Freakin' owned e: Shapers rule, though. From the looks of it anyways. I bet they're real soothing to work with compared to most machine tools. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Nov 22, 2012 |
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Nov 22, 2012 03:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Freakin' owned I've seen dozens of them in person, but I've never had the opportunity to work with one. This video is relevant though, and pretty cool. This guy has some neat stuff, and I like his press designs. He's got an awesome shaper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCc_SxtLSsA
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Nov 22, 2012 05:08
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Freakin' owned Watching the chips go ping and fly away is hypnotic but it's hard to relax around a machine with that many pinch points after you've seen it take a .150" bite out of 1018 like there's nothing there at all.
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Nov 22, 2012 05:17
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I don't think there's anyone else who does repousse here, but plasticine turns out to be an amazing supporting medium. No clean-up like with pitch, and the firmness doesn't increase as you work like it does with hot pitch as it cools. It lets you sink metal with modelling punches really, really fast and reduces toolmarks because the metal around the punch wants to deform instead of resist and absorb all the tool's force over just the punch footprint. I'm definitely gonna start any future repousse project that has any depth at all on plasticine 'cause dang. Pitch's behaviour makes it really really dynamic and flexible in application if you know what you're doing and can, you know, read the pitch, but for an idiot like me something consistent and predictable gets much better results.
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Nov 22, 2012 15:22
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I've been looking for a horizontal bandsaw for cutting metal instead of my old chop saw and this just came up.. http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/tls/3359861523.html "Olson 12"X16" Horzantal metal cut Band Saw" I can't seem to find much about them other than Olson sells blades only these days. Anyone heard of them? I have a call into the guy to find out the motor hp and blade size just to see if I can get find some more info on them.
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Nov 22, 2012 19:41
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porcellus posted:What the gently caress? Brazed joints are strong enough for a head tube on a bike? What else is brazed and what's the advantage of doing so? It's sort of the halfway between silver soldering and full-on molten-steel welding. A major application is the copper tubing in A/C systems. Advantages are that it's decently strong and requires a lot less heat than welding, so you can do it with a fairly small torch even on a massive heatsink like a copper pipe without quite as much of the weight of machinery and safety gear that you'd need for actual welding. And as has been said, another big bonus is you can theoretically heat it up and undo, whereas welded joints have to be cut apart to replace (though everybody I know just cuts out the joint and brazes in a new section when running copper because it's easier that way). Personally, I don't really see the point in brazing steel -- just zap it with the MIG welder -- but apparently it's the only way to fit up copper tubing. Not an Anthem posted:Attach to chain, attach chain to drill press. My old boss liked to use those ID card badge retractable zippy things but gently caress me if it wasn't impossible to pull it around and get it in the chuck and its always being a pain. Question: I'm working on making a lightweight hammer out of a railroad spike, because I have a bunch of railroad spikes so why the gently caress not? I've cut it a bot shorter but kept the original cross-peen profile, and smoothed off the face/nailhead. But I'm at a loss as to how to attach the handle -- drill a hole through the spike and bolt it on? Grind notches in the sides and use the neolithic method with the handle on the outside? Weld on a steel handle? Also I did a lot of the face smoothing/peen shaping manually with a bastard file. Slow, but so much more satisfying than just zapping it with the angle grinder. Not all that much quieter, though -- the file's tooth spacing seems to coincidentally match the resonant frequency of my vise/workbench. File it from one end, it's just "scritch, scritch"; turn the vise around, and the whole assembly sings. Off-key, of course. Man, I really need to build a furnace so I can cast aluminum cans/copper from scrapped air conditioners and make knives out of the other railroad spikes. On another tangent, rail spikes are awesome as disposable chisels. "poo poo, where'd I put the cold chisel? gently caress it, I'll grind an edge on a railroad spike and hit it a little harder." Edit: I'm having a bit of deja vu about the railroad spike hammer. Maybe I asked the same question back when I first got the spikes? Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Nov 23, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 06:17
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Question: I'm working on making a lightweight hammer out of a railroad spike, because I have a bunch of railroad spikes so why the gently caress not? I've cut it a bot shorter but kept the original cross-peen profile, and smoothed off the face/nailhead. But I'm at a loss as to how to attach the handle -- drill a hole through the spike and bolt it on? Grind notches in the sides and use the neolithic method with the handle on the outside? Weld on a steel handle? Make a slim rectangular shaped punch and drive it through, then use a drift to make the hole big enough to put a cheap hammer handle through. You can make it from a cheap old chisel, or a crappy round punch if you have that laying around. You could probably use some mild steel since it's just a one time thing, but it's not going to be easy. It's gonna be a really light hammer though, what are you going to use it for?
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Nov 23, 2012 07:45
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Slung Blade posted:Make a slim rectangular shaped punch and drive it through, then use a drift to make the hole big enough to put a cheap hammer handle through. You can make it from a cheap old chisel, or a crappy round punch if you have that laying around. You could probably use some mild steel since it's just a one time thing, but it's not going to be easy. I don't have a forge, so all those things are right out (if I did have means to heat it, I'd totally grind another spike to the proper shape to drift it out.) quote:It's gonna be a really light hammer though, what are you going to use it for? Pretty sure I have a 10oz claw hammer somewhere but making it redundant with a railroad spike =  *I rearrange grocery stores for a living; we ask a newbie to bring a shelf stretcher (because sometimes things don;'t quite line up) like aviators ask for a bucket of prop wash. They come to me, they get the actual shelf stretcher. They don't actually get it, of course, because tools have feet (you steal my screwdriver, I use the hammer on you; steal my hammer, I use the screwdrivers to get it back**) so I only loan tools to people I know, but they can tell the old hand where to get it. Everybody else I work with carries a rubber mallet or a baby claw hammer, so my real hammer gets passed around. I would carry the TF2 engineer wrench (totally blanking on the real name of it right now), but it doesn't quite fit in my stepstool/toolbox. **coworkers are always complaining about having their tools go missing,I've never had that problem. Probably because I go all Thor on anybody that touches my toolbox without permission. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Nov 23, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 09:18
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I`ve been thinking of making a railroad spike into a hammer myself, because a combo light rounding/veining hammer would be real useful for me. Dish stuff into stumps and the like with one end, and then flip it around and use it as a set tool (hit it with a soft hammer) for heavy veining. I'd wanna do it out of carbon steel, though- I'm not good enough to temper an entire large heavy tool, I don't think, but even annealed carbon steel is leagues more durable than just mild. Those exist, right? Higher-carbon spikes, I mean.
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Nov 23, 2012 15:35
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Slung Blade posted:I've seen dozens of them in person, but I've never had the opportunity to work with one. I talk to this guy on practical machinist all the time. Small internet.
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Nov 23, 2012 16:00
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I`ve been thinking of making a railroad spike into a hammer myself, because a combo light rounding/veining hammer would be real useful for me. Dish stuff into stumps and the like with one end, and then flip it around and use it as a set tool (hit it with a soft hammer) for heavy veining. They do, they have a little HC stamp on the head. High carbon is a relative term though. I think they're forty points or so.
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Nov 23, 2012 16:09
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Thanks for all the responses I got earlier about trying to bend conduit into a spiral. I had made a new jig for bending that I hadn't used yet, so I decided to try one last time. It worked! The bend is actually really regular, it only looks like it changes from perspective.  I finished my rabbit spear  Earlier in the thread, I remember some talking about making hexagonal cross-sections. I thought someone said it couldn't be done without a swage block, but maybe they were talking about a triangular cross-sectioned. I really like hexagons, so I hexagonalized a piece of spring steel. I think I may use it as a leatherworking punch, or just make a punch that has a hexagonal instead of round or octagonal shaft.   
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Nov 23, 2012 19:50
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I know I kind of mentioned it earlier in the thread, but if anyone needs some kind of intricate shape (such as a makers mark) put onto something, if you supplied the artwork, I've got all kinds of scrap that could be engraved and used as a punch.
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Nov 24, 2012 03:13
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A Proper Uppercut posted:I know I kind of mentioned it earlier in the thread, but if anyone needs some kind of intricate shape (such as a makers mark) put onto something, if you supplied the artwork, I've got all kinds of scrap that could be engraved and used as a punch. How much would you want to do something like that? I'm not familiar with how much prepwork and tailored attention it would entail.
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Nov 24, 2012 03:33
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How much would you want to do something like that? I'm not familiar with how much prepwork and tailored attention it would entail. If I could be supplied the artwork I could do it for the cost of shipping, maybe a couple more bucks if you were feeling generous. It's actually fairly simple if I have the artwork.
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Nov 24, 2012 03:39
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Slung Blade posted:They do, they have a little HC stamp on the head. High carbon is a relative term though. I think they're forty points or so. I assume even the fancy railroad spikes are one step up from rebar in steel quality, right? Can you get hot enough with a charcoal BBQ grill and hairdryer to do case hardening? If so, would that work for a hammer? Edit: and assuming you do have an oxyacetylene torch or similarly hot heat source, you really only need to temper the face of a hammer, not the whole thing, right? Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 11:01
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Case-hardening needs to get the part up to a dull red heat as a rule, hammer-heads have a -lot- of compact mass thats very slow to fully heat up. Even then, you'd either be using instant case-hardener, in which case the hardened layer is going to be incredibly thin and won't do much of anything and will be compromised by every ding and scratch, or you'd be doing it in the old-fashioned way, in which case a forge absolutely would not cut it because you'd have to keep the box full of hammer-head and charcoal powder and strips of leather and toenail clippings at temperature for 12+ hours- so unless you're down to burn 50 pounds of charcoal to harden a single hammer-head... Tempering isn't so difficult, though. Big parts heat and cool slowly so you have a lot more leeway in terms of when to quench and what temper colours you want to draw where and etc. I'm still real bad at it, of course, but trying to temper chasing punches made out of 1/8" drill rod is an exercise in frustration (I just use them annealed now, as an indicator of my success). e: A Proper Uppercut posted:If I could be supplied the artwork I could do it for the cost of shipping, maybe a couple more bucks if you were feeling generous. It's actually fairly simple if I have the artwork. Dang. D'you have PMs? I will most definitely take you up on this.
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Nov 24, 2012 14:48
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quote:Dang. D'you have PMs? I will most definitely take you up on this. Yea I have PMs.
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Nov 24, 2012 15:00
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I have a fly press question. All this talk of making cool imprints and stuff made me look at my local craigslist and there is a guy selling a perfect condition screw press for 225$. he said he'd listed it on ebay and I think this is the listing for it. Tthe item in question:   I'm noticing that it does not seem to have the big cross-bar with the weight balls on it, nor does it have the check-nut. Can it still be used without that? After watching this video about buying a used fly (screw) press I'm not 100% sure that that even is a fly press. Any ideas? Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 19:49
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I'm absolutely not talking from a position of authority here, but as far as I know screw presses and fly presses are not the same thing. Fly presses have steep screws that only require a couple turns to fully raise or lower, which can be done by just giving it a start thanks to the flyweights. A screw press exerts much more force but is slow to raise/lower and as such is unsuitable for forging or quick forming operations. With a fly press you can strike and work very quickly, relatively speaking; looking at the pitch of the screw on that, I'd be amazed if you could do more than one 'strike' a minute. Will work great for, say, coin-striking or other die operations requiring a lot of force, but not for the things fly presses are actually good for. Still looks like a real nice tool, though.
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Nov 24, 2012 20:05
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Delivery McGee posted:I assume even the fancy railroad spikes are one step up from rebar in steel quality, right? The iron they put in spikes is actually really good quality stuff, yeah. They're made for a specific purpose though, which didn't really include long term use in a high impact role, so they probably won't be great as hammers. I mean, it won't be useless as a hammer or anything, just don't expect it to be as good as a proper one. That's all I'm getting at. E: and yeah, that's not a fly press at all. Ambrose is totally correct, the pitch on the thread is completely wrong. When he says the thread is big, he's right, the screws on those things are huge, usually at least a 1/4" across and at a very steep angle. Might be good for some things though, but for 225 I wouldn't get it for forge work :/ Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 20:14
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Slung Blade posted:They're made for a specific purpose though, which didn't really include long term use in a high impact role, so they probably won't be great as hammers. I just went out and looked at my spikes, all from one pile from redoing a level crossing, and I've got four HC, one marked MC, one with an H that probably had a C before it was hammered in, and two unmarked or too worn to read. Of course I've ground off the markings on the one I'm making a hammer out of, though I know it did have letters but I've forgotten what they were. But yeah, this isn't so much a proper hammer as a tool for hitting things. If it gets dinged up, I'll regrind it. If it gets too worn, I'll just make another. And actually, it'd probably be better that way for chisels and punches, given the warnings on the chisels and punches not to hit them with a hardened hammer lest both shatter and put your eye out. Speaking of ersatz hammers, I have a Coes wrench:  Apparently the Engineer's use of it in TF2 is accurate, because every one I've seen is mushroomed on the flat side of the head. Edit: My wrench and spike hammerhead.  Labeling was less specific back then.  "Steel" Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Nov 25, 2012 |
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Nov 25, 2012 03:57
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Some of you will remember my mental exercise regarding coining fantasy coins. welp. Apparently it is economically feasible, because someone is doing it already! 
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Nov 25, 2012 18:58
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Delivery McGee posted:But yeah, this isn't so much a proper hammer as a tool for hitting things. If it gets dinged up, I'll regrind it. If it gets too worn, I'll just make another. That's the spirit! Also, I really like your wrench, where did you get it? I could use a couple of them for twisting wrenches, but they're hard as gently caress to find here. Leperflesh posted:Some of you will remember my mental exercise regarding coining fantasy coins. So what's stopping you? Make/find a press and get minting! Make your own dies and show the world.
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Nov 25, 2012 19:43
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Hi there weldy people. I have a question. I'd like to do some TIG welding. Mostly cast aluminium for repairing / modifying cast engine parts. Would an ultra cheapie like this one on eBay be okay for occasional use? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-TIG-...#ht_7682wt_1401 I already have an arc welder and a commercial grade MIG, so they already cover most tasks pretty well. Just a pity my MIG welding is rubbish. Need a lot more practice. Been arc welding with the same welder since I was a kid. It was a Birthday / xmas present. Don't remember which anymore. Something like 20 years ago now.
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Nov 25, 2012 22:40
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Slung Blade posted:
Oh you know, the usual things: space, time, money, competing interests and priorities. I havent even got a forge set up and that's much more interesting to me.
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Nov 26, 2012 01:46
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