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$2780 is a pretty good deal for rewelding the core support as well as everything else that got bonked.
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Nov 21, 2012 16:36
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As seen in my thread, I am installing an EJ207. I need to swap back to the USDM ECU to drive it to the inspection place to get insurance. I need insurance to be able to drive the car around a bit to know if all the stuff I did is working properly before taking it to the tuner guy. My USDM ecu is completely stock. I haven't flashed it to stage 2 or anything. The new engine has no cats and a 3" exhaust. Will the stock tune be safe enough to drive around on at low throttle levels to get it to the aircare place or should I do something else? Copy everything from the JDM ecu? Install Stage 2 tune? Maybe the closed loop will be good enough to fix any lean conditions?
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Nov 21, 2012 18:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:$2780 is a pretty good deal for rewelding the core support as well as everything else that got bonked. Yeah, it still stings though since we just bought it in May. That's without any teardown to see what else might be broken underneath. My fiance likes the second shop we brought it to better, just have to see what their $ estimate is. He especially liked that instead of saying "Oh we only do estimates based on what we can see" they guessed at what could be damaged underneath and said they'd add it to the estimate and if they didn't have to do it then obviously the final cost would be lower, but they'd rather estimate high so there's no surprises. Insurance company is investigating to see whether the other driver can be held liable since he caused the accident even though it was a rear-ending. Edit: This is second-hand from him since I wasn't there and he exaggerates sometimes but; They were approaching a merge point, my fiance in the merge-into lane, the other guy was next to him and pushed his way in to the barely-car-length spot ahead of him, nobody was behind him so he could have backed off if he wanted to. The guy then tapped his brakes and flipped him off, accelerated, then suddenly stood on his brakes when they got up to the speed limit again. It wasn't a very hard hit, but he hit just right to smoosh the front end of the Forester and... maybe scrape the bumper on the Oldsmobile 88? Faerunner fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Nov 21, 2012 |
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Nov 21, 2012 19:32
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IANAL certainly but braking for no legal reason like that can make the driver that got rear-ended at fault from all the anecdotes I've heard. Good luck getting that fucker to pay for it (also burn his house down).
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Nov 21, 2012 21:24
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blindjoe posted:As seen in my thread, I am installing an EJ207. Hmmm...'aircare', not emissions...are you in the Lower Mainland/Vancouver? If so, you might have a few issues. They probably won't like that your catalytic converter has clearly been cut open and patched - the first thing they do is use an inspection mirror to make sure there is one, and they'd catch that first thing. Even with the stock tune, without having a real/functioning catalytic converter, your emissions levels will probably be too high to pass. The guy at the end will take one look at your results, and tell you the catalytic converter probably needs to be replaced. I had an 87/Nissan pickup that didn't have a catalytic converter, and was part of some loophole where it didn't fail automatically, because some of them had actually come from the factory without (mine had the heatshielding in place, though). The only thing that got it through was replacing the cat. Same for my turbo firefly - changed O2 sensor, plugs, wires, distributor and cap, air filter, a whole lot of stuff...my shop drilled a small hole into the cat, and was able to move a coathanger around freely - there was no element at all left. Having the exhaust replaced was the only thing that got it through. Of course, if you're anywhere else...disregard, I guess!
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Nov 22, 2012 02:18
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Captain McAllister posted:Hmmm...'aircare', not emissions...are you in the Lower Mainland/Vancouver? If so, you might have a few issues. They probably won't like that your catalytic converter has clearly been cut open and patched - the first thing they do is use an inspection mirror to make sure there is one, and they'd catch that first thing. Aircare as in in Lower Mainland. My car is new enough that it just needs to go through an ODB2 scan. My friend used an oven pan as a heat shield once, the car passed no problem. ODB scans can be passed as there is a check box in the tune software to set all readyness indicators to OK. The nasioc guys said to copy everything over from the jdm ecu, so I will give that a try.
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Nov 22, 2012 02:22
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blindjoe posted:Aircare as in in Lower Mainland. My car is new enough that it just needs to go through an ODB2 scan. My friend used an oven pan as a heat shield once, the car passed no problem. ODB scans can be passed as there is a check box in the tune software to set all readyness indicators to OK. Haha, thought so. I'm in the LMD too. They may or may not use the inspection mirror then, I forgot about just plugging in to OBD2. You should be OK then, if all the settings are clear. A CEL is an automatic fail.
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Nov 22, 2012 02:59
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Captain McAllister posted:Haha, thought so. I'm in the LMD too. They may or may not use the inspection mirror then, I forgot about just plugging in to OBD2. You should be OK then, if all the settings are clear. A CEL is an automatic fail. Yup, but you can have one pending code... ask me how I know (cough cough '98 LGT with cams, full exhaust and a high-flow cat that ate itself cough cough).
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Nov 22, 2012 04:12
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bull3964 posted:It's the starter sticking and not immediately disengaging from the engine as it spins up. That's why it only seems to show up as it gets colder. When it's warmer (either in outside temp or from engine heat), the lubrication for the gear mechanism doesn't stick. It's apparently quite common and some people take the starter off and disassemble it to relube the parts. Otherwise, you need to replace the starter to make it go away. It's a Thanksgiving Miracle! As long as I dont need to worry about it I wont, seeing as it will only be relatively cold here in Phoenix for about two months sometime in the near future. Thanks dudes.
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Nov 23, 2012 06:27
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When your Subaru stops making weird noises is when you should worry in my experience.
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Nov 23, 2012 09:04
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Rontalvos posted:Doing the timing belt on a 2 year car? Do they suddenly have 30k mile intervals on timing belts? My mom travels heavily for work, so yes, she currently has 40,000 on it now..... and right now work is sending her farther out, so its going to be getting more miles. Figuring that we are going to be hitting the 75k mark late next year.
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Nov 23, 2012 16:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:My mom travels heavily for work, so yes, she currently has 40,000 on it now..... and right now work is sending her farther out, so its going to be getting more miles. Figuring that we are going to be hitting the 75k mark late next year. It's your money and/or labor, i replaced my timing belt at just 15,000 Miles because it was 8 years old, with hot-weather conditions it slipped five times in a week causing a loss in RPM when it did. Having an interference-type engine i wasn't keen on finding out what happens when it breaks at 6000 RPM on highway upramps. After replacement there was little visual wear and tear to be found though. If you believe it will alleviate your doubts then by all means do it.
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Nov 23, 2012 16:39
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Mikemo Tyson posted:For now though I'm looking at replacing the stock radio and possibly putting on the SPT exhaust. I'm trying to find anyone local to me that has the SPT exhaust because I'd like to hear it in person rather than forking over a grand for something that's going to be obnoxiously loud. Anyone have any opinions on the SPT exhaust? Rally armor mudflaps are fantastic. They definitely help. I got one small chip the first month I owned my 2011 WRX, none in the 1.5 years after installing them. SPT exhaust sounds good without being obnoxious. That said, it's probably not worth the money. Also there are potential issues with the exhaust touching your rear sway bar. You may also want to look into the Cobb short shifter. Very nice.
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Nov 23, 2012 16:53
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Gorillian Dollars posted:It's your money and/or labor, i replaced my timing belt at just 15,000 Miles because it was 8 years old, with hot-weather conditions it slipped five times in a week causing a loss in RPM when it did. Having an interference-type engine i wasn't keen on finding out what happens when it breaks at 6000 RPM on highway upramps. After replacement there was little visual wear and tear to be found though. How much of a pain in the rear end is it to do? I mostly fiddle with BMW and Rover, so any thing has to be easier. Would you recommend replacing anything besides the tension/pulleys/etc? Should I do the water pump while its all apart? I know its a new car, but is it "while every thing is apart" type deals?
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Nov 23, 2012 18:14
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How much of a pain in the rear end is it to do? I mostly fiddle with BMW and Rover, so any thing has to be easier. It's not that hard a job, really. Especially if you're used to german cars, this is going to be a walk in the park. While you have it apart you should replace the cam seals, crank seal, all the idlers, and the waterpump. The waterpump is just like any of the other idlers, the bearings in it go bad just the same. I had one fail at 92k miles in my old car, it really ruined my day. And that was even a non-interference. A good timing kit will come with all that poo poo, just don't use anything besides the rubber coated metal waterpump gasket. The cardboard or whatever other ones are poo poo and will cause sadness. Working on a car that new all the loving timing cover bolts will probably come out without stripping, breaking, or snapping the nuts out of the plastic...
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Nov 23, 2012 18:28
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I did the timing belt/waterpump and valve cover seals on my junkyard 2.2L SOHC, and of course it leaks from the driver side cam seal now. 
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Nov 23, 2012 20:53
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Faerunner posted:First estimate is back, ~$2780 or so with tax, a week for the repairs to be done. It's going in for an estimate at a different shop today. (A non-dealer shop which can hopefully be more relaxed on "Not using parts from salvage yards" like the dealer shop) Second, more thorough estimate is back. This one came to $2900ish with tax and they included a lot of stuff they assumed they'd probably have to take care of once they got it torn apart, obviously with the caveat that if it wasn't in need of doing, it would be removed. On top of that, this second shop is way more... I want to say customer service oriented. They're a father and son business though so I guess that they have more of an option to be personable than an assembly line style dealer shop. Still just waiting on the insurance to see what's going on with funds, giving it until Monday afternoon before we just go ahead and tell them to get started and pay for it up front and wait to see if the insurance reimburses or not.
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Nov 23, 2012 23:25
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Can anyone recommend a good hitch/bike rack combo for a 04 WRX wagon? I looked at roof mount but that seems much more costly. No more than two bikes would be carried.
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Nov 24, 2012 21:12
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Can anyone recommend a good hitch/bike rack combo for a 04 WRX wagon? I have used Reese Hitch Products and have been pleased.
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Nov 24, 2012 21:30
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Any ideas on Rota Gravel, it is the only wheel design I like (Enkei STI replicas) for Legacy GT's and I am not about to spent 4,000 US on the originals. As far as I heard they are OK wheels quality wise.
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Nov 25, 2012 20:59
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also can anyone tell me what lip is this one?
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Nov 25, 2012 21:34
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How much of a pain in the rear end is it to do? I mostly fiddle with BMW and Rover, so any thing has to be easier.  That's what the DOHC 2.5 looks like out with the covers off. You don't need to pull the engine, but since I did oil pump, water pump, cams and gaskets and pulleys and everything at the same time I pulled it. Oh, and P&Ped heads and... I still have the DOHC cam pulley holder - and no longer have a Subaru - if anyone can use it.
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Nov 25, 2012 21:47
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Just traded in my 2012 WRX on a 2013 FIAT ABARTH. Man I love this car...
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Nov 25, 2012 22:38
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Monstertruck posted:Just traded in my 2012 WRX on a 2013 FIAT ABARTH. Man I love this car... 
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Nov 25, 2012 22:54
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Monstertruck posted:Just traded in my 2012 WRX on a 2013 FIAT ABARTH. Man I love this car... O.o Okie dokey. I don't see a whole lot of people posting in here about FMIC's. I don't know a lot about them, but I thought they were more for race cars than street...is this just one of the things the NASIOC'ers do to be cool? It seems like everyone on that site is obsessed with them and wants to put one in at the earliest possible date after buying the car. (After rear-window stickers, that is.)
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Nov 25, 2012 23:26
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War Bunny posted:O.o Okie dokey. Here's a pretty good read on top mount vs. front mount. http://rusubaru.com/intercooler-efficiency/
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Nov 25, 2012 23:44
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War Bunny posted:O.o Okie dokey. No point unless you want to run big power / racing. Any heat soak issues can be fixed with waterspray
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Nov 25, 2012 23:52
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Cat Terrist posted:No point unless you want to run big power / racing. Any heat soak issues can be fixed with waterspray Or just not sitting in traffic.
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Nov 26, 2012 01:21
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Mikemo Tyson posted:Here's a pretty good read on top mount vs. front mount. http://rusubaru.com/intercooler-efficiency/ Pretty good. I'd note that at least for the 05-09 Legacy there is one intercooler that doesn't involve touching the bumper beam. I'm pretty happy with a TMIC (AVO) without plastic (OEM one leaked).
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Nov 26, 2012 01:50
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Turbo question coming up. I've run-in my car after the rebuild and today i let the tuner do his stuff. Some knock at the start as the old tune was meth-dependant and i've ditched that. The turbo was pulling strong initially but about halfway through the tuning the turbo kinda gave up on holding boost. It'll spike up to about 21 psi and then drop down to around 10-12 no matter what instructions it was given. The solenoid and actuator spring check out ok though, the tuner's opinion is that the turbo is probably on it's way out (maybe from the earlier runs). It's a Zage (lol Ebay turbo) TD05-20G that was installed by the PO so i'm not sure how long it's been in there. I've always had it in my mind to ditch the turbo for something of better quality but the recent engine rebuild had put that plan on the back burner. I was thinking of the Blouch 380XT as it's been recommended by different tuners and is a bolt-on Legacy fitment. It uses a TD05 turbine and wheel shaft assembly but should spool up quicker than the current turbo. This is kind of in line with the tuner's recommendation that i go for something smaller/quicker spooling due to the auto tranny/gearing and my driving patterns. I've sent Blouch an email to check if they can ship to Singapore and i'm waiting for their reply. In the meantime are there any other suggestions for alternatives i should be looking at? I'm targeting around 275-300 whp (400 at the crank?) because of the auto gearbox, i rarely pull past 6k and prefer to drive on a wave of torque in the mid-range.
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Nov 26, 2012 14:21
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Thanks for the answers about the intercoolers. Great link too, Mikemo. One more random question. I have a set of 17x7.5 +38 wheels that I use on my Impreza. Will I have any issue using these as winter wheels on a 13 STi? I'm just not sure about brake clearance and all that.
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Nov 26, 2012 14:55
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WRX != STi fitment. STi's use a 5x114.5 lug pattern whereas all other WRX/Legacy/etc fitments are 5x100. The suspension in my LGT is starting to get noisy, and being less than an oil change from 70k miles, it probably wouldn't hurt to start looking into options to refresh it. The car is 99% highway/commuting/baby hauler duties, so I don't want to go crazy replacing springs or doing coil-overs - just looking at "stock replacement" shock options mostly. Bilstein? Tokico?
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Nov 26, 2012 15:13
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ssjonizuka posted:WRX != STi fitment. Koni!
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Nov 26, 2012 16:37
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ssjonizuka posted:WRX != STi fitment. Yeah, they are dual-drilled, fortunately.  So no size issues, you think?
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Nov 26, 2012 17:10
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Amandyke posted:Koni! My only concern there is I don't have the tools necessary to do the modifications to the original housing myself and can't afford downtime to have someone do it for me. War Bunny posted:Yeah, they are dual-drilled, fortunately. I don't think the size of the brembo system has changed, so if other STi's are running them, you should be golden.
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Nov 26, 2012 22:07
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ssjonizuka posted:My only concern there is I don't have the tools necessary to do the modifications to the original housing myself and can't afford downtime to have someone do it for me.
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Nov 26, 2012 22:51
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I think the Tokoco HTS are still dirt cheap. The nice thing about konis on the legacy is that you only have to cut up the front struts. Rear you get a whole replacement shock. Warbunny, those wheels might not fit the brakes, you'll have to try it or see if you can find someone else with an STI using them. There are very few 17x7.5" wheels that work but them being +38 will definitely help. FMICs are good for some uses and bad for others. A track car making a good bit more power than stock needs one along with a hood scoop delete and upgraded radiator. A street car with a 20g doesn't. Having a good, properly sized core is most important. The cheap stuff has poor fin density and internal construction so they don't do much for cooling. raffie, it sounds like the wastegate is getting forced open, so it could just be that the spring in the actuator isn't strong enough. The other possibility is a restriction somewhere in the system. Could be something like a collapsing silicone turbo inlet, or blown catalytic convertor (assuming you have either of those things).
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Nov 26, 2012 23:01
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jamal posted:I think the Tokoco HTS are still dirt cheap. The nice thing about konis on the legacy is that you only have to cut up the front struts. Rear you get a whole replacement shock. The third gen ones are 300 bucks. The 4th gen are 700ish. Why, I dont know. Also, I put mine in and two of them clunk. I don't know why. I either hosed up how the tophats are aligned, or I spun the shaft too much or something.
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Nov 26, 2012 23:19
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jamal posted:raffie, it sounds like the wastegate is getting forced open, so it could just be that the spring in the actuator isn't strong enough. The other possibility is a restriction somewhere in the system. Could be something like a collapsing silicone turbo inlet, or blown catalytic convertor (assuming you have either of those things). We were road tuning but swung back to the shop to get the spring pressure tested, it checked out ok (0.9 bar spring). The cat is out, but i did recently replace the original (cracked) turbo inlet hose with a Samco one, i was under the impression they made decent products but will discuss the possibility with the tuner. He didn't seem to think that was the issue though. While we're on the subject, do you carry any Legacy fitment turbos?
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Nov 27, 2012 00:32
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Slow is Fast posted:Also, I put mine in and two of them clunk. I don't know why. I either hosed up how the tophats are aligned, or I spun the shaft too much or something. My front driver's has clunked since I put them on, it's aligned perfectly and I keep rotating the spring around to get it seated right, but it just won't. The performance is fantastic though - I replaced megan coilovers with the konis on my LGT and after taking the very first corner on my test drive I was literally yelling at myself for putting up with those pieces of poo poo for so long. I cannot imagine a better DD setup.
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Nov 27, 2012 04:26
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