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I have another question. Learning some blacksmithing abilities would actually be extremely useful to me. I can probably build most of what I need but the anvil is a sticking point. I have lying around a big tooth from an excavator bucket or something to that effect. Big solid lump. Would that be useful for a start? And if so does it need to be mounted somehow / how would I go about that?
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Nov 26, 2012 04:12
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General_Failure posted:Hi there weldy people. I have a question. I'd like to do some TIG welding. Mostly cast aluminium for repairing / modifying cast engine parts. Would an ultra cheapie like this one on eBay be okay for occasional use? Unfortunately, that's a DC machine. As such, it's useless for welding aluminium. Aluminium develops a very thin layer of oxide almost instantaneously upon exposure, you need the current of your welding machine to be alternating as to break up that oxide layer so you can actually weld it. The 60% duty cycle isn't great, but it's better than a lot of commercially available machines. It means that out of every 10 minutes, 6 of them you can be welding with it, it'll need to cool off for the other 4. Bottom line, it would be fine for moderate use on steel if that's all you were doing with it. Your excavator bucket tooth will be cast iron, possibly cast steel but I kinda doubt it. It would be fine as a temporary anvil if you just want to pound some stuff out. The rebound is going to be atrocious, especially considering it's hollow (I'm guessing?) so you're going to have to expend a lot more energy to get anything done. As for mounting it, I'm not really sure what to suggest, I'd have to see it. Might be a good idea to weld a frame around it or something to keep the tooth up, let that be the horn of your makeshift anvil. Maybe you can build something up out of 4x4 wood? How much does it weigh?
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Nov 26, 2012 06:09
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Slung Blade posted:That's the spirit! Also, I really like your wrench, where did you get it? Mine's from ebay, though I see them in antiques stores every now and then.
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Nov 26, 2012 06:15
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Ambrose, I'd love to hear more about your repousse, especially what kind of materials it's good for. The closest work I've done to that was on this piece of 1/16" cold finish steel and the 4 before it that went to the scrap bin.
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Nov 26, 2012 12:48
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I'm reeeeeeeeally new to repousse, I've only done 3 or 4 little projects- most of which I never ended up finishing. I'm still in the phase where I don't have much tooling to speak of, so whenever I want to make anything I have to make new punches for the job- which is fine and is kind of the point, to fill out your tool set bit by bit as you need to- but it's also why I don't do a whole lot, between school and other stuff. For the most part chasing/repousse gets done on nonferrous metals. Copper's probably the most accessible because it's easy to source as roof flashing and the like, and it's also the softest and most cooperative, but still work-hardens to give the final piece strength. Brass is also good, although it's a bit tougher and work-hardens more vigorously (imo) so its accordingly more difficult to deal with. Silver's one of the best metals for the job, but, you know, silver  Pewter takes to repousse very well, never work-hardening letting you just Work As You Will Until Its Done, but it's expensive as heck, difficult to source in sheet form, and has a tendency to fatigue-crack/spall if worked too much. Aluminium isn't ideal, mostly because it's impossible to find pure sheet without mail-ordering it, and most aluminium alloys have way more springback and toughness than you want for repousse. It's not unworkable, just very frustrating and generally requiring a -lot- of annealing. Steel's perfectly shapeable too, but the hardness means I don't do anything with it myself- a lot of my tools are annealed because I Am An Idiot (actually I'm just really, really bad at tempering a punch 1/8" in diameter with a torch freehand) so I don't want to screw 'em up by trying to move harder metal with em. You don't even need pitch to start chasing, you can do a ton of work on the anvil itself, softwood blocks, plates/blocks of lead and brass, thermoplastics, plasticine like I mentioned last page, etc- although pitch can fill nearly all those roles if used properly, which is why it's so popular. Right now I want to make myself some square and rectangle-faced modelling punches, for sinking shapes and patterns with a square profile and even, crisp vertical walls. I have to do some lettering for a commission, and it's blocky enough that just sinking it with round punches (the easiest way, gives a kind of bubbly organic effect) would be completely inappropriate. I'll post the first chasing things I did, in pewter, ages ago. Not particularly good work, but given that I did each with no more than three punches I made out of a steel rod I found on the sidewalk with no instruction on the technique I'm okay with them.  
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Nov 26, 2012 |
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Nov 26, 2012 14:57
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What the gently caress man, those are beautiful.
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Nov 26, 2012 18:53
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Okay, so I have my kitchen knife at the stage where I've given it some bevel and packed the edge. Now, do I grind out the edge prior to hardening/tempering or after? This is only my second time making a blade, and the first one I didn't bother with the tempering.
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Nov 26, 2012 21:23
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Rough grind leaving 0.2mm-0.5mm of material on the edge, heat treat, then a final grind.
TerminalSaint fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Nov 26, 2012 |
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Nov 26, 2012 21:38
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Another thing I did a coupla days ago in pewter. Boring + not worth showing off, I'm mostly entertained because I made it 90% unconsciously. I'm struggling to little effect to write a statistics paper, and was blindly sawing slits in a random pewter bar that was too small to turn into a ring while reading studies. Once I ran out of bar I put it down for an afternoon before I realized I could, you know, bend it into a loop and and solder it closed and it wasn't just Garbage From A Butt.
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Nov 26, 2012 22:02
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Slung Blade posted:Your excavator bucket tooth will be cast iron, That's really surprising to me. I mean, I don't know anything about excavator buckets but cast iron is really brittle and it seems like with this excavation, hard-but-tough is absolutely vital. You need to crunch through rocks and stuff, maybe even tarmac or take bites out of concrete. I'd expect it to be carbon steel. quote:especially considering it's hollow (I'm guessing?) Why would it be hollow? Anyway, back to the original question: people used to do blacksmithing on a rock. Anything will work, it's just a sliding scale of how well it works, how durable it is, and what kind of surface you have to work from. I'd say plop it on top of a big stump, hold it down however you can (maybe weld a spike on the bottom and just drive it into the wood, or maybe weld "feet" on and strap them down with chain or bent rebar) and give it a try. You've already got it, so it costs you nothing to give it a shot. TerminalSaint posted:Rough grind leaving 0.2mm-0.5mm of material on the edge, heat treat, then a final grind. I would do: Rough grind leaving ~.5mm edge Sand, using 80 grit and then 120 grit Heat treat (anneal, then heat and quench, then temper) Sand, using very fine grits Use hand files to put your final edge on Polish, being careful not to slice the gently caress out of your hand, using your finest grit and then (depending on the finish you want) a polishing wheel on your bench grinder Attach your handle, if applicable Final edge using a sharpening stone. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Nov 26, 2012 |
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Nov 26, 2012 23:17
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A fairly popular first anvil is just a sledgehammer head fixed to a base, I've heard of people setting them in concrete before. At least that way you know you have a brick of decent, hard steel.
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Nov 26, 2012 23:19
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Leperflesh posted:I would do: When you say hand grind the edge, how am I approaching the edge with the file in terms of angle? I want a really nice bevel, but I'm not sure if I should try a double bevel or just a single bevel. There's a lot of technique that I clearly don't have yet, and I wish I had a smith nearby to give me pointers- I'm really thankful this thread exists. Edit: How do you guys get a larger bevel? Anytime I've tried to file an edge in the past I've always wound up with a mostly same-thickness piece of metal with a tiny sliver of bevel at the edge. Obviously I'm doing something wrong, but I'm not sure how to do something different. Is my approach to the blade with the file too steep? sephiRoth IRA fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Nov 26, 2012 |
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Nov 26, 2012 23:50
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Slung Blade posted:Unfortunately, that's a DC machine. As such, it's useless for welding aluminium. Ah! This is why asking questions is good. I doubt the tooth is hollow. Even the cross section where it snapped off from the main assembly is probably larger than my fist and all solid. I've used it for makeshift cold working things I suppose you could call it. I honestly have no idea how much it weighs. It'd be over 20kg. Possibly quite a bit more. I've used it to beat a new hooked end into one of those car battery clamp retaining rods, straightening tent pegs, and fixing mangled bits of sheet. It's raining currently so I an't take a photo but I'll do it once the rain stops. Leperfish, would you believe there are no rocks here? It's weird. On the subject of heavy machinery I was at a scrapmetal place at just the right time to see one of their big grabby claw machines have a failure a few years back. Something failed in the claw assembly. Someone hurried over with what looked like an oxy-acetylene torch and they tried to get the claw moving again but it just wouldn't work, so while I was there they just resorted to using the machine to help smash the loads down and shift them around in trucks. The hydraulics worked but it had lockjaw. I still have to wonder what could cause a failure like that. years back I could have gotten an anvil but couldn't see any reason to. Now I want one it's not exactly easy. I'd like to be able to extend my ability to fabricate and am very good at hitting things with other things so it seems like a natural thing to try.
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Nov 26, 2012 23:59
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areyoucontagious posted:When you say hand grind the edge, how am I approaching the edge with the file in terms of angle? I want a really nice bevel, but I'm not sure if I should try a double bevel or just a single bevel. There's a lot of technique that I clearly don't have yet, and I wish I had a smith nearby to give me pointers- I'm really thankful this thread exists. Yeah, the size of your bevel will be purely a function of angle and material thickness. Also, if you're trying to hold your file at an angle, it's practically impossible to keep it consistent. Find a way to clamp your work at the angle and file flat across it.
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Nov 27, 2012 01:18
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Leperflesh posted:That's really surprising to me. I mean, I don't know anything about excavator buckets but cast iron is really brittle and it seems like with this excavation, hard-but-tough is absolutely vital. You need to crunch through rocks and stuff, maybe even tarmac or take bites out of concrete. I'd expect it to be carbon steel. Cast iron isn't so brittle that it's basically glass. It's still a pretty tough material. I should have said "ductile cast iron" which is a little softer/tougher. Leperflesh posted:Why would it be hollow? They usually have a cavity to slip over the inner teeth of the bucket. They're not completely hollow, sorry, I didn't mean to give that impression. Like this:  So I finally got out into my shop tonight and did some work on that table I started back in loving August.  I mostly finished bending all the components for the legs of my table. They're in no way perfect, but I find the best thing to do is get them as close as possible, then join them all up and even it up from there.  See? Not really even, but now that the three pieces are joined into their sub assemblies, I can straighten them out and even it all up. But for that I need the charcoal forge, and that will have to wait for another day.  Dat glow.  e: huh, I guess I didn't post about the table, at least not what I can see in my history. No matter, I didn't have a lot. Still have this granite chunk sitting in my shop. Need to make legs for it.  Made these during the big three day show up at the park using the power hammers there for the tapers.  Cut and evened out the tapers a bit.  Highly scientific and reproducible forms  
Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Nov 27, 2012 |
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Nov 27, 2012 04:12
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Here's a photo of the broken bit of what I believe to be from some kind of excavator. You can see that the edge is shiny where I've used it in the past for some shaping. The glove was about the only thing I could find as a size reference.
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Nov 27, 2012 05:49
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Man that's not like any tooth I've ever seen on an excavator. Maybe the chisel head they use on those excavator/backhoe mounted loving jackhammers. If so, fuckin score, those things are made of awesome steel. Looks like a perfect makeshift anvil to me. Does it clang or thunk when you hit it with a hammer?
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Nov 27, 2012 06:24
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Slung Blade posted:Man that's not like any tooth I've ever seen on an excavator. It tings. Its weight indicates that it is completely solid too as I have to lug it with both hands. An excavator tooth is only a guess given the wear near the point, the type of metal and the general shape. It was in the yard when we moved here. The amount of force that would have been required to break it off would have been immense too so that also adds to my guess.
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Nov 27, 2012 07:46
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That looks exactly like an excavator tooth to me. I've never seen one like Slung Blade posted, all the ones I'm familiar with look solid, not modular. Maybe Canada is just special?
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Nov 27, 2012 09:04
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I've seen both, but they were all a high wear steel of some sort, not cast iron. I have a feeling that that tooth of yours will make a better anvil than most of the anvil-shaped-objects that you can buy in retail stores now. It could also be a ripping tooth from a large dozer.
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Nov 27, 2012 14:09
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Leperflesh posted:That looks exactly like an excavator tooth to me. I've never seen one like Slung Blade posted, all the ones I'm familiar with look solid, not modular. Maybe Canada is just special? Maybe you're special  No really, if it tings it's almost definitely steel, and I agree, looks like a great anvil substitute.
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Nov 27, 2012 16:09
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Note that used tool-faces like that are not only very good steel but are additionally work-hardened to boot. That looks like a goddamn weighty tooth, I'd put a little bit of work into using it. I'd carve a shallow slot in a tree-stump so the tooth would socket in laying on its side, and then deepen one side to compensate for the wedge shape, so you can use it with the working face properly horizontal. I'd actually probably do two slots side by side, or one in each end of the stump, with one canted like I described to accomodate for the tilt and another wedge-shaped slot to allow you to use the tooth on its side, too. e: Also, Slung Blade those gate components rule. I'm sad I haven't hot-forged anything bigger than a chasing punch in probably close to 6 months... just need to build that gas forge. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 00:24
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General_Failure posted:Hi there weldy people. I have a question. I'd like to do some TIG welding. Mostly cast aluminium for repairing / modifying cast engine parts. Would an ultra cheapie like this one on eBay be okay for occasional use? Technically you can weld aluminum with DC (DCEP only), but it's not advisable as penetration is worse than AC and you'll go through tungstens like hotcakes. Cast aluminum doesn't take kindly to welding, IIRC, as it tends to crack. Brazing or soldering might be an option, depending on the piece. What kind of work are you looking to do? Meat Recital fucked around with this message at 13:27 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 04:55
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Ambrose Burnside posted:e: Also, Slung Blade those gate components rule. I'm sad I haven't hot-forged anything bigger than a chasing punch in probably close to 6 months... just need to build that gas forge. It's a table  Also what do you make your chisels and punches out of, and how do you heat treat them? I need to make some to make my touchmark here soon. I have "drill rod" on hand of unknown alloy, and I have some S7 coming in the mail from amazon (finally, and gently caress you mcmaster carr for not shipping to canada, dicks). If you want to do large forging, all you need is a big firepit. You have a backyard right? Dig under your firepit and run some car exhaust tubing up into the middle of it and hook up a bathroom fan or hair dryer or shopvac or anything. Forge with any kind of wood you like because that fire will burn loving ANYTHING.
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Nov 28, 2012 06:28
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Slung Blade posted:Also what do you make your chisels and punches out of, and how do you heat treat them? I need to make some to make my touchmark here soon. I just use 0-1 drill rod, 'cause McKinnon Metals (duders I buy from, a GTA chain as far as I know, because they're on the bus route, because I do not drive and literally, literally drag sheet copper and huge bundles of round rod home on public transit) stocks it. I also like making things out of prefab punches and chisels, because (in the case of chisel) turning it into a liner is as easy as grinding the edge much thinner and less cold-chisel-ey, generously rounding off all the sharp edges, and polishing. If you're good with the watercan you won't even need to retemper. As of now, I don't heat treat my repousse/chasing punches- mostly because all the tempering attempts I've made have been abject failures, because A) I'm just not very good at it and B) drawing temper colours on a 1/8" rod is just too frustrating to contemplate trying and failing at, again, for the Nth time. I'm not working on steel, so the annealed 0-1 is still going to be vastly harder than anything I'm working on. Plus, I've had one attempt-tempered punch shatter on me already, so it's much safer to not muck around with that when I don't have to at this point in time. Maybe some day I'll bundle em all up en masse and send em off to be heat-treated somewhere, but for the time being it's just not a big priority. Alternately, I have an aunt who's getting out of pottery and has an enormous Canadian Forces-surplus pottery kiln that's just gathering dust, it can do up to cone 10 which as I understand can theoretically melt copper-based metals (not that you'd ever use it for that), could do maaaad heat-treating with it. Doubt the power supply it needs is available to me, though. e: actually, I'd say about half my punch-based tooling isn't made of steel at all. I've got wooden punches made of drumsticks, a couple more acetol plastic punches, and a brass punch or two. I don't get a ton of use out of them because they fill out the bigger range of tooling- Imagine you want a modelling punch with a 1" face, you either pay a billion dollars for a bigarse tool steel rod, or use wood/plastic/whatever. To be frank, I prefer wood/soft materials for a lot of reasons- biggest one being the fact that it doesn't leave toolmarks, but the low cost, ease of shaping and easy access to the raw stock doesn't hurt either. Steel is predominant for the smaller tools, 1/4" and down (although I go up to 3/8"), as well as liners and the chisel-like punches, 'cause it can support a very fine or delicate working face. A wood liner would collapse after a single job, if not halfway through. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 17:00
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Texturing? Texturing.  Lesson learned- texture stuff before raising it, it'll be a billion times easier to deal with. Also, I blackened the background with an acid mordant, but it's not a very durable or consistent (mostly because I didn't bother degreasing it, so the pitch remnants masked the metal surface somewhat). e: Ach, I keep doin that thing where I forget you're not supposed to doublepost. WELP
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Nov 28, 2012 23:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Alternately, I have an aunt who's getting out of pottery and has an enormous Canadian Forces-surplus pottery kiln that's just gathering dust, it can do up to cone 10 which as I understand can theoretically melt copper-based metals (not that you'd ever use it for that), could do maaaad heat-treating with it. Doubt the power supply it needs is available to me, though. My wife is a ceramic artist so I know things about kilns. It's either a gas or electric. Sounds like probably electric. Depending on the size, it can probably run on 240 volts with a 30 amp circuit. A lot of garages already have this for a dryer outlet, but may need a different type of plug installed. Cone 10 is high-fire for ceramics. It's 2200+ degrees F. That's hot as gently caress. The thing is, though, these kilns are not designed to be opened while hot. You can open the door a crack for some purposes (introducing lots of oxygen, cracking during cooling to mildly speed up the cooling process) but if you get into the habit of swinging the door open while the internal temperature is 1000+ degrees F, you run the risk of damaging internal components from thermal shock. Also if you melt or vaporize metals in the kiln, you may ruin it from the perspective of ceramic making (because the vapor gets into the brick, comes back out in subsequent firings, and affects the chemistry of the clay or glaze). All that said, you absolutely could use it for heat treating, since you only need like six or seven hundred degrees to get the temper you would want with a piece of carbon steel. Many of them have "kiln timers" which means you can set it and forget it; it'll heat to temp, hold that temp, and then shut off and gradually cool, over the space of many hours. This also makes it an ideal chamber for annealing, and I bet you could do carburizing as well. Oh and if the kiln is "enormous" as you say, it's A) heavy as gently caress, B) worth at least a couple thousand dollars, and C) going to cost quite a lot to fire.
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Nov 29, 2012 00:11
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Meat Recital posted:Technically you can weld aluminum with DC (DCEP only), but it's not advisable as penetration is worse than AC and you'll go through tungstens like hotcakes. I weld cast aluminum automotive parts like he is intending to do. Pre heating is KEY. It takes more amps, a very clean surface (do NOT use a brake cleen/carb clean/ect- it will get stuck in the castings pours and poison you depending on what it is), and a lot more heat.
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Nov 29, 2012 00:23
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Leperflesh posted:
Yeah, I haven't actually seen it in person so I don't know, it was just described to me as "beefy"; it used to be part of a workshop on base so I'm assuming it's a fairly large/capable machine. If my aunt knows how much power it draws I can figure out whether it's worth asking for or not.
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Nov 29, 2012 00:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Yeah, I haven't actually seen it in person so I don't know, it was just described to me as "beefy"; it used to be part of a workshop on base so I'm assuming it's a fairly large/capable machine. If my aunt knows how much power it draws I can figure out whether it's worth asking for or not. Kilns range from "barely big enough to shove your fist in" to "big enough for people to have a picnic in". There are wood-fired kilns that are made of earthworks and stretch for dozens of yards, too, but it's obviously not one of those. Generally the large ones are gas fired because delivering electricity sufficient to run one is prohibitive, and also fuel-firing gives you some options that aren't there for electric. Oh and they're more durable.
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Nov 29, 2012 00:42
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Hey Ambrose, are you in Toronto? I have never heard of that McKinnon place, but I was about to buy brass tube from Amazon, but now I can just pick it up locally. This is amazing and will save me tons. They also seem to do a some machining, so I may be able to get them to turn down the huge piece of steel I need to turn on the lathe to a size that I can turn it on the lathe at work. Brekelefuw fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Nov 29, 2012 |
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Nov 29, 2012 00:56
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Yeah. GTA, anyways- I commute into the city for school. e: I want a sander/grinder with a belt, something I can just switch out belt-grits on. I need finer, what would you call it, 'abrasive control' for grinding 1/8" punches and the like. Should I get one of these  or one of these?  I'm leaning towards the second, if only because I already have a bench grinder for fast/aggressive stock removal- and the style of belt on the second seems super-useful in terms of having looooots of clearance around the belt to maneuver whatever thingy you're grinding, as opposed to a bench grinder where a lot of stuff is hideously awkward or impossible because of the bulk of the machine + the wheel itself. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Nov 29, 2012 |
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Nov 29, 2012 01:01
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the spyder posted:I weld cast aluminum automotive parts like he is intending to do. Pre heating is KEY. It takes more amps, a very clean surface (do NOT use a brake cleen/carb clean/ect- it will get stuck in the castings pours and poison you depending on what it is), and a lot more heat. My experience is similar to yours, although I could get away without preheating when I was welding fairing stays and such, and just grinding the poo poo out of it, then scrubbing the crap out of it with a wire brush, and then acetone, and then scrubbing it some more. The final welds weren't particularly pretty but I didn't have any issues with contamination despite the fairing originally being painted. Now, if you're trying to weld up stuff like oil pans that have gotten impregnated with oil/contaminants over time, the guy who taught me how to weld said you have to try to leech the stuff out as best you can...heating helps extensively, as does repeated cleaning. I also primarily weld aluminum, because that's what the stuff I'm trying to fix is usually. I do have a question though: I want to knock a chunk out of a header that I have and replace it with an SS straight tube. I have no idea what sort of SS the header is, but I figure I can dig and find some decent resources on what welding rod to use, that I'm not too concerned about. What I was wondering about was stuff like Solar Flux to apply to the inside of the header to shield the back of the weld? I've got mixed reviews across the assorted welding forums and net on them.
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Nov 29, 2012 23:33
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Yeah. GTA, anyways- I commute into the city for school. I'd recommend the second one. The combo grinder looks like the belt would be too small to sand much of the stuff we do in a useful fashion.
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Nov 30, 2012 03:45
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The belt on the combo grinder is actually bigger/wider at least than the second, although the way it's set up would make it only particuarly useful for knives or anything else where you wanna do a big, flat, even grind, which is basically only knives and other cutting tools basically. Also, that disc sander's adjustable rest will rule for doing, you know, consistent/even punches and the like. For stuff like undercutters or wedge-shaped punches, it'd be as easy as dialling in the bevel angle you want and bracing it against the rest to keep it steady while you grind, grind, flip, finish and polish. Tried doing a square-faced modelling punch and an undercutter tonight and both came out wonky, because trying to grind a perfectly even square freehand blows. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Nov 30, 2012 |
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Nov 30, 2012 04:22
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Ambrose Burnside posted:The belt on the combo grinder is actually bigger/wider at least than the second, although the way it's set up would make it only particuarly useful for knives or anything else where you wanna do a big, flat, even grind, which is basically only knives and other cutting tools basically. Oh, it is for sure, but I mean the amount of usable space is smaller. More options on the free belt one.
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Nov 30, 2012 04:35
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I had a Grizzly badged version of the belt/grinder combo, and I wouldn't recommend it. The grinder portion was woefully underpowered, and the belt was a royal pain to find replacements, as well as being in a strange zone of not quite being good for any particular job. I ended up giving it to a friend who spends months not quite getting to the point of doing anything in his garage before switching to a new project. A perfect fit! The disk and thinner belt setup would be my suggestion as well.
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Dec 1, 2012 02:28
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Oh my god what am I doing.
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Dec 1, 2012 05:09
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I bought the disc/beltey one today, as well as that three-piece metal-bending/twisting/rolling/riveting kit. The quality's kinda turdly but I expected that given the price compared to the made-in-America equivalent. I'm gonna need some low-carbon annealed steel to fart around with it before I know its limits, although I have some 1/4" brass rod I might try rolling just to satisfy my curiosity.
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Dec 1, 2012 05:23
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Slung Blade posted:Oh my god what am I doing. When Terry Pratchett was knighted he insisted on making his own sword with star metal: https://www.escapistmagazine.com/news/view/103633-Terry-Pratchett-Makes-His-Own-Heavenly-Sword I don't know if you plan on being knighted in the near future, but you can never be TOO prepared.
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Dec 1, 2012 10:05
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