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wormil posted:Maybe someone can help me... I will have a wooden wheel that weighs 35-40 lbs that will spin at roughly 80rpm that I need to fix between 2 wooden uprights. A metal rod will be the axle. What is this for? You may want to cut out as much material as you can to lighten the weight of the wheel.
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Nov 17, 2012 17:20
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Cakefool posted:Scenario 2 then, drill a hole through the exact centre of the wheel the same diameter as the axle rod. Drill it as straight as possible, much easier if you have or can access a pillar drill. Press the axle through. Is there any axial thrust? If not you might not need to secure the wheel to the axle in any way, however if there's any axial load or the hole isn't perfect you might want to fix the wheel on somehow. After sleeping on it this makes the most sense and I can use stop collars on each side of the wheel. It's really a human powered pulley/flywheel so it needs to be heavy. (I'm on my phone so I can't multiquote)
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Nov 17, 2012 19:47
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I have an old gravity gas furnace (no fan) that had an old mercury switch thermostat. I replaced it with a digital Honeywell and connected the two wires to W and Rh; it didn't work though. The old mercury thermostat simply connected the two wires together so with this knowledge, I went to the gas valve and shorted the two terminals; the gas started flowing and it lit right up no problem So I'm wondering, if it's even possible, how to wire up this new thermostat to simply short the two wires to turn it on
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Nov 17, 2012 22:44
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dwoloz posted:I have an old gravity gas furnace (no fan) that had an old mercury switch thermostat. I replaced it with a digital Honeywell and connected the two wires to W and Rh; it didn't work though. With all the federal incentives you haven't managed to replace this or add a fan in the past 60 years or so? Your gas supplier should also offer money to remove this beast because they are so inefficient (about 50%, compared to 90+%)
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Nov 17, 2012 23:43
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I'm an idiot, one of the wires was cut. Works now The furnace is 90 years old haha. Still works great albeit not as efficiently as a new one. It would cost me thousands to replace it and I just don't have that kind of money right now Second problem though, the gas valve (ITT Control) has a pilot adjust screw beneath a cap but this doesn't adjust the pilot any. Currently the pilot flame is way bigger than it needs to be and I'd like to adjust it down. Any idea why it's not adjusting?
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Nov 18, 2012 23:21
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I've got an old Roper wall oven with a burnt out control board. Called a bunch of local appliance repair shops who all told me that replacement parts stopped being made for that model about 15 years ago. New oven prices are just way out of my budget and even the Sears Outlet specials are stretching things a bit (cheapest that will fit the opening is about $700. I'm considering shopping around in the used appliance stores, but wanted to see if you guys had any opinion on whether used appliances are worth a look or not. My thought is that I could potentially save a few hundred bucks and at least get an appliance that repairing is an option if it fails. Also, how hard are ovens to repair, generally? I've repaired quite a few bits and pieces on my dryer without much difficulty and done other home installs (thermostat, garbage disposal, ceiling fans) so I'm somewhat handy.
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Nov 19, 2012 14:49
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wormil posted:After sleeping on it this makes the most sense and I can use stop collars on each side of the wheel. Couldn't you just adapt a bicycle hub/axle for what you need? I don't exactly know what you are doing, but it seems if you convert a bicycle, the hub/axle/bearings would all be a perfect fit so the hard part of the design would be trivial.
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Nov 20, 2012 20:53
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SkunkDuster posted:Couldn't you just adapt a bicycle hub/axle for what you need? I don't exactly know what you are doing, but it seems if you convert a bicycle, the hub/axle/bearings would all be a perfect fit so the hard part of the design would be trivial. I'm going to build a treadle lathe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvN_uMxdIus A bicycle hub might work but I can't think of a way to mount it inside the wheel without using spokes which sucks because I have a bicycle for parts. Generally you have a flange on each side of the hub and it doesn't come apart. A bicycle wheel would be ideal except you want a heavy wheel for rotational inertia. I'm loosely following this plan: http://books.google.com/books?id=rN...ved=0CC4Q6AEwAA The original uses a 17" concrete flywheel but I'm making a ~24" wooden flywheel instead. What I like about the Popular Mechanics plan is that it uses multi-belts & multi-pulleys to achieve a higher RPM than I've seen with other treadle lathe designs. This design should easily hit 1450 RPM as opposed to the ~500 RPM of two pulley designs.
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Nov 21, 2012 05:33
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Why not construct a mold around the bicycle wheel and fill with concrete? Hub, check weight, check (Potentially) adjustable gearing, check Just make sure you inspect the hub assembly for the condition of the ball bearings inside of the hub. As time goes on and the hub wears you can usually replace the bb with one size larger. You will also want a bicycle with a cassette and not a freewheel (cassette has bearings further apart in the hub, freewheel has bearings on one far side and the other in the center)
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Nov 21, 2012 15:07
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Thanks for posting all the treadle lathe info, these are awesome, I'd like to build one in the future too I'm a bicycle mechanic so I know a bit about the hubs. A traditional hub has a cup and cone system where there is a threaded axle, threaded adjusting nut, lock nut, a threaded cone shaped bearing surface, ball bearings and the cup (the bearing surface integral with the hub shell). For something like this I would probably build a flywheel out of wood or concrete as described and then use cartridge bearings pressed into the flywheel, a threaded axle and washers to apply pressure against the bearings and an adjusting nut and locknut on each side to adjust.
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Nov 21, 2012 18:34
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Why not construct a mold around the bicycle wheel and fill with concrete? This occurred to me but it would be more complicated than simply buying bearings for a wooden wheel. Maybe just because I know how to construct a wooden flywheel but I've never cast concrete around a bicycle wheel. Also I don't need the adjustable gearing at the flywheel although it might be useful in a different design. dwoloz posted:Thanks for posting all the treadle lathe info, these are awesome, I'd like to build one in the future too These should be ideal.Thanks!
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Nov 22, 2012 10:22
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So, my in-laws' refrigerator died overnight. Is there anything I can check to see if we can get it going again? This has the potential to make me look like Superman, so think hard!
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Nov 22, 2012 17:35
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wormil posted:I'm going to build a treadle lathe. Will you post progress pics from time to time?
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Nov 22, 2012 17:46
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The Human Cow posted:So, my in-laws' refrigerator died overnight. Is there anything I can check to see if we can get it going again? This has the potential to make me look like Superman, so think hard! Did it make any noises before dying? Squealing means a fan or belt is binding. I had an old fridge where I could remedy the problem for a few hours by single use of precision percussive maintenance on the back of the freezer wall. I would i) Be very careful pulling the fridge out if the floor is vinyl. I would not pull a fridge out on vinyl myself because it can buckle, bubble, or tear. a) Check the outlet for power (no power? reset the breaker) b) Check underneath the fridge, pull away the plastic guard, and stair into the maw of hell that is likely years of dust and pet hair. Vacuum all of that away and hope the fridge just shut down rather than burnt itself out. c) Search google for your model number to see if there are any fuses.
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Nov 22, 2012 17:50
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Underflow posted:Will you post progress pics from time to time? Definitely will. I might even make a thread for it if there is enough interest. Fair warning though, I'm not a fast woodworker so if I do make a thread I will wait until good progress is made so it doesn't grag out for months.
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Nov 22, 2012 21:20
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I bought a discounted acrylic bath, it's missing a couple of bits from the fitting kit & I need help tracking them down in the UK. I thought it would be easy to buy a new fitting kit but seems I was wrong. I need a set of the adjustable feet - m10 threaded bar with round plastic feet on one end, about 140mm long. I also need one of the plastic sockets that the support frame slots into - it connects the support frame to the rim of the bath. I'm having trouble even finding pictures online.
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Nov 22, 2012 23:52
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I debated making a thread for this but decided to ask here first before asking for help. So while cleaning out my garage I found my old Teddy Ruxpin.  I was wondering if it would at all be possible to rewire it to have a MP3 player in there or maybe a I-pod dock? I know Its probably impossible to ever have the mouth sync up again with anything but it would be kind of fun to update this for my own children.
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Nov 23, 2012 00:57
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wormil posted:Definitely will. I might even make a thread for it if there is enough interest. Fair warning though, I'm not a fast woodworker so if I do make a thread I will wait until good progress is made so it doesn't grag out for months. Nice, looking forward to that.
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Nov 23, 2012 10:45
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So I'm replacing the self adhesive laminate tiles in my kitchen with other self adhesive laminate tiles. Obviously as I remove the old ones, there's a sticky residue on the wood under. What's the best way to clean it or can I just put the new tiles on that?
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Nov 23, 2012 18:20
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Volume posted:So I'm replacing the self adhesive laminate tiles in my kitchen with other self adhesive laminate tiles. Obviously as I remove the old ones, there's a sticky residue on the wood under. What's the best way to clean it or can I just put the new tiles on that? Set the new tiles on top. No need to prep.
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Nov 23, 2012 22:39
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We just renovated our two bathrooms and put everything on top of the old stuff. Seems to work great. Had to chop a bit off the door for it to be able to open though.
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Nov 23, 2012 23:37
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Thank you guys for the answer, was not looking forward to scraping glue off of every inch
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Nov 23, 2012 23:43
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Volume posted:So I'm replacing the self adhesive laminate tiles in my kitchen with other self adhesive laminate tiles. Obviously as I remove the old ones, there's a sticky residue on the wood under. What's the best way to clean it or can I just put the new tiles on that? So back on this project. I'm a little started and I'm noticing the tiles are a little off set and small gaps of black can be seen. Is there any sort of sealant I can coat the floor in that'll fill in these gaps? Also I got some tiles sticking up that don't wanna stick. Can I just shoot some wood glue under them? Ride The Gravitron fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 20:21
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Volume posted:So back on this project. I'm a little started and I'm noticing the tiles are a little off set and small gaps of black can be seen. Is there any sort of sealant I can coat the floor in that'll fill in these gaps? You need to pop chalk lines before you go any further. Do them about 4 tiles apart. Set the rows against these lines. Little tile inconsistencies will cause the pattern to go off pretty quickly otherwise. And the glue you should be using is tile glue. Failing that, construction adhesive.
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Nov 24, 2012 21:24
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I'm getting rid of cable TV. Is there anything I can do with the existing coax outlets throughout the house (networking, etc.)?
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Nov 24, 2012 23:02
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I'm going to give you a First I prep my floor by taking everything off that I can. Glue and residue is fine to leave behind as long as it's not going to be lumpy. I have mostly laid my tile on plywood subfloor. I go around with a level or just my hand and find high spots and sand them down. If you have any extreme low spots, you should probably fill them in with leveler. When you lay tile, you want to start in the center of the room :  The two intersecting red lines are the center lines of the two longest walls in this fictional room. You measure the length of the two longest walls, and mark their mid points. Then measure the mid point distance on each walls opposing wall. You do this to find out what length you are going to be cutting your tiles at when you get to the edge. You adjust these redlines so that you don't end up with a tiny strip of tile. See how on the bottom, you only have a small portion of tile? You do not want this for two reasons. One, it looks bad, and two, the tile isn't going to be very secure. It will slide and peel because there is not much of glue holding it down. Notice how you have the same problem at the top, and at the upper right wall. The solution is to slide both red lines until you have optimal edges, like this :  Now you are ready to snap lines and get your center starting point. You basically would want to snap the two red lines in the drawing. I always snap the line that is parallel to my longest wall first, and then make marks for the second line using the 3-4-5- trick :  After I have both lines, I check to make sure they are 100% square, and start laying tile from the middle of the room outwards. I know this was long and confusing, but I guarantee once you figure out these tricks, you will end up with no gaps and a nice looking floor. ease fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 23:08
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ease posted:I'm going to give you a babyeatingpsychopath posted:You need to pop chalk lines before you go any further. Do them about 4 tiles apart. Set the rows against these lines. Little tile inconsistencies will cause the pattern to go off pretty quickly otherwise. What about the tiles already placed and with gaps?
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Nov 25, 2012 00:46
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My cat chewed my Wii U gamepad charge cable to the point where it no longer works. I cut out the portion of the cable which is damaged and have peeled back the outer insulation, exposing the inner wire. I've spliced a wire before, but it was when I was learning to solder with a kit from Amazon, and this wire is different from the one in the learning kit. It has copper wire surrounding an inner white insulation tube with more wire inside that. A bit of googling leads me to believe the outer wire is just shielding and not really necessary for the function of the charger? Here's a picture of what I'm talking about : http://i.imgur.com/qlETP.jpg All I need to do is strip the white casing and splice that inner wire to get it working again?
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Nov 25, 2012 03:19
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Droid Washington posted:My cat chewed my Wii U gamepad charge cable to the point where it no longer works. I cut out the portion of the cable which is damaged and have peeled back the outer insulation, exposing the inner wire. I've spliced a wire before, but it was when I was learning to solder with a kit from Amazon, and this wire is different from the one in the learning kit. It has copper wire surrounding an inner white insulation tube with more wire inside that. A bit of googling leads me to believe the outer wire is just shielding and not really necessary for the function of the charger?
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Nov 25, 2012 03:25
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grover posted:Both are conductors and both needs spliced. Doesn't have to look pretty, so long as the soldering is conductive and you keep them insulated and apart. Thanks for the help! Splice successful!
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Nov 25, 2012 04:12
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http://158poplar.com/images/gallery/1000/poplar-04.jpg This is our fireplace. We never use it and would like to cover it up in a very NOT permanent way. Can someone give me advice on how to do that? I was thinking of building a wood frame and stretching canvas over, or something using a thin piece of drywall or wall board? How would I attach it to the wall? I can nail bits of wood together, but I am not confident in my ability to finish the rough edges well enough. It is just over 4' tall and 6' wide, it protrudes no more than 1.5" or so from the wall. other people fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Nov 25, 2012 |
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Nov 25, 2012 21:25
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Associate Christ
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Cover it up for aesthetics or to keep warm air from going up the chimney? If for energy efficiency, you can get a cover damper or one of those inflatable dealies
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Nov 25, 2012 23:03
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dwoloz posted:Cover it up for aesthetics or to keep warm air from going up the chimney? If for energy efficiency, you can get a cover damper or one of those inflatable dealies Yeah, google has shown me those. This would be purely for aesthetics.
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Nov 26, 2012 00:24
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Yeah, google has shown me those. This would be purely for aesthetics. Do you want to cover up just the insert or the entire mantle?
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Nov 26, 2012 15:57
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Do you want to cover up just the insert or the entire mantle? Either is agreeable in my mind. I thought the insert would be easier simple because of size, but it has that irregular brick edge to contend with. The other relief is that a low piece of furniture will be directly on the hearth so I don't have to worry about the bottom of whatever we do being flush/neat.
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Nov 26, 2012 18:32
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Nice shim art.
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Nov 26, 2012 18:49
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Kaluza-Klein posted:This would be purely for aesthetics. So your predicament has been haunting me most of the day. I think you should use a compression curtain rod to hang a fabric to cover the space. You would be able to mount right inside the top corners and should be able to fill the space. You will want to have a surplus of fabric such that it bunches at and above the rod, and also presses itself against the side walls. With your modern decor I think a damask pattern would be nice. Depending on the furniture you place in front, and how much attention you want, you could go patternless and used a slightly textured fabric (or muted pattern) or color. I really think a botany or encyclopedic illustration would look best.
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Nov 26, 2012 21:23
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After I bought my home I became aware that the previous owner was cheaper than my initial impressions. There is a new bathtub in a new addition. The tub is equipped with a pump and has an air actuated switch. To get at this pump one has to remove an access panel on the side of the tub. When I first did this I found that whoever wired the bathroom did a line to a junction box with a simple grounded outlet, with the plug about two inches from all the pump PVC lines. My understanding is that the power to this tub needs a GFCI at the breaker. In the interim I replaced the simple outlet with a GFCI but it is still near all the water lines which scares me. How scared should I be of using the pump?
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Nov 27, 2012 02:48
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stubblyhead posted:Nice shim art. Thank you. I followed these directions and it came out great: http://hisugarplum.blogspot.com/2011/06/diy-convex-sunburst-mirror.html The wife was extremely happy/surprised  XmasGiftFromWife that is a very simple solution that I very much like. We may give something like that a go later this week. There is a TV coming soon that will be on a piece of furniture on the hearth, so we are going to wait and see how it looks before we go crazy.
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Nov 27, 2012 05:17
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I need a custom table to fit under my computer desk and hold my digital piano. Someone online had the same problem and built this table to hold it: http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o467/elginburg/IMG_0984.jpg Now I'm on a mission to build the same thing, but I don't know alot about the finer points of table building. If it were up to me I'd go to home depot, ask them to cut pieces of wood the same shape as the ones in there, spray paint it all black and attach wheels. Is there any advice or ways I can do this a little more properly so it looks and feels well done? Kind of wood to buy, or finishers or whatnot?
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Nov 27, 2012 13:17
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