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Probably totaled. Technically, if the strut towers can be put back into place if they're off, and the motor didn't have the timing intruded upon, then its fixable, but will they pay for it still....
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Nov 30, 2012 06:00
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Looks like i'll be getting a turbo from BNR, he does a stock fitment bolt-on for the Legacy GT/2008+ WRX and for a reasonable price. Most likely going for the TD05H-18G setup with a conservative tune to baby the autobox.
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Nov 30, 2012 09:59
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Cat Terrist posted:Not totalled, quite fixable - It's gonna cost a fair whack tho. Straighten front rails, replace panels etc. It might be able to be salvage titled after the insurance company totals it, but it's definitely totaled by insurance standards. Just the airbags are a couple thousand dollars. The dollar to repair add up very quickly.
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Nov 30, 2012 13:47
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I previously mentioned purchasing a 2008 WRX. So far I'm quite happy with the vehicle however the stock sound system is abysmal and there are no aftermarket options for iPhone/iPod interfaces and Bluetooth interfaces that work directly with the stock stereo. So last night I replaced the factory stereo with an aftermarket. I installed a JVC KW-HDR81BT with an Axxess Interface Steering Wheel Control. I ordered from Crutchfield so the order came with an "adapter" to fit the receiver into the dashboard correctly (nice!) and a harness to connect direct to the factory stereo harness but it was missing pin 4 and pin 14, which are needed to connect the steering wheel controls. I added the two pins to the harness myself but I'd suggest getting a harness from SVXdc as their harness includes these otherwise missing pins. Please note I have not ordered from here before but they have been mentioned in this thread. A remote microphone is included with the head unit which I installed on the windshield tucked up behind the headliner in the center. The microphone sits just to the left of the trim that covers the wires from the rear-view mirror with the wiring running above the headliner, to the driver side A-pillar, down above the airbag, and into the dashboard. I ran the rear USB cable down inside the center console and out through an existing hole to the "stuff" tray below the environmental controls; this keeps the cord out of sight but makes it easy to connect my iPhone. My only complaint would be that the bluetooth functionality requires a bluetooth dongle to be plugged into the radio. Since I set the rear USB cable to be used for my phone I have to plug the USB dongle into the front of the radio. Not a big deal, but I did have to cover the end of the USB dongle with some electrical tape otherwise the status light constantly blinking (green light blinks every time it's communicating with a device) would drive me crazy.
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Nov 30, 2012 14:46
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Strange problem with my stock 2008 Impreza 2.5i with the black cloth seat covers (yes, the ones that came with the car). I was moving some ski poles out of the back of them and nicked the zipper on the rear right hand side of the drivers seat, causing it to split open mid way through the zip. For the life of me, with all the feeling around I cannot find the zip pull thing that would let me seal it back up... any idea how I close it again? The zip itself doesnt seem to be damaged, but all the Googling in the world won't give me a clear answer  Can post pics if needed. Thanks.
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Dec 1, 2012 05:26
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Heners_UK posted:Strange problem with my stock 2008 Impreza 2.5i with the black cloth seat covers (yes, the ones that came with the car). I was moving some ski poles out of the back of them and nicked the zipper on the rear right hand side of the drivers seat, causing it to split open mid way through the zip. You're pretty much going to have to force each tooth of the zipper back closed, then open again, then closed again. It's going to suck. Start by getting some light oil or silicon based lubricant and applying it to the teeth of the zipper to help them slide past one another. Then pull the fabric together closest to the zipper pull thingy. Focus on going an inch at a time, maybe less. Holding the fabric together, get a friend to force the zipper pull thingy backwards. It will be tough, but you should be able to force the pull thingy back to the other side of the gap. Once you have that done, zip 'er back up. Alternatively, since it's still under warranty, go to the dealer. They'll probably do what I just described and, if that fails, they'll order you another one.
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Dec 1, 2012 12:44
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daslog posted:It might be able to be salvage titled after the insurance company totals it, but it's definitely totaled by insurance standards. Just the airbags are a couple thousand dollars. Yeah, for instance this 'little incident' here?  Three. Thousand. Dollars. And that's with junkyard parts. This one, though on a Saab so everything is skyrocket prices, came out to over $6k and they wrote it off.  Neither of them had the airbags deploy, neither were high speed hard hits. gently caress, the Saab didn't even have any major structural damage. Faerunner posted:Still just waiting on the insurance to see what's going on with funds, giving it until Monday afternoon before we just go ahead and tell them to get started and pay for it up front and wait to see if the insurance reimburses or not. Oh, right. The insurance. Our company's claims agent called my fiance a liar because the other guy's story mysteriously didn't match and found in favor of the rear end in a top hat who forced the accident on the liability claim, paid out about $1300 to him, and our rates are likely going to skyrocket. Faerunner fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Dec 1, 2012 |
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Dec 1, 2012 13:46
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Safety Dance posted:You're pretty much going to have to force each tooth of the zipper back closed, then open again, then closed again. It's going to suck. I think he was saying he can't find the pull you would normally use to zip/unzip the covers.
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Dec 1, 2012 16:22
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You know I had spares, right? They're used, but I kept 'em when I replaced mine after the repainted hood. The bumper, though, it's toast. 
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Dec 1, 2012 16:26
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Viggen posted:You know I had spares, right? They're used, but I kept 'em when I replaced mine after the repainted hood. The bumper, though, it's toast. That's from back in May, the insurance effectively wrote it off before the estimate was done.
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Dec 1, 2012 16:38
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Faerunner posted:That's from back in May, the insurance effectively wrote it off before the estimate was done. I remember, but I thought the damage was likely to be worse than a couple broken lamps and a messed fender.. maybe a leaky radiator and/or intercooler pipe that can be welded in for under $100 if not pierced too bad. That really doesn't look as bad as I expected.
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Dec 1, 2012 16:39
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Viggen posted:I remember, but I thought the damage was likely to be worse than a couple broken lamps and a messed fender.. maybe a leaky radiator and/or intercooler pipe that can be welded in for under $100 if not pierced too bad. That really doesn't look as bad as I expected. Oh, did I not share all the photos? I'll have to see if my fiance still has them, or even the estimate, somewhere. It really wasn't that much damage at all, just parts availability and price were the issue, plus the time it would take to get them and the rental car costs over that time, etc. If the parts were readily available it wouldn't have been a big deal at all Edit: He drove it 10 miles home from where it was hit, drove it around the next day for a bit since I had the Jeep, and then drove it up to the body shop another 15 miles or so with no problems, it was all cosmetic.
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Dec 1, 2012 17:01
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Faerunner posted:Oh, did I not share all the photos? All I remember was 'we got hit, car's hosed, bye SAAB'. </derail>
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Dec 1, 2012 17:13
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Heners_UK posted:Strange problem with my stock 2008 Impreza 2.5i with the black cloth seat covers (yes, the ones that came with the car). I was moving some ski poles out of the back of them and nicked the zipper on the rear right hand side of the drivers seat, causing it to split open mid way through the zip. The zipper ends should be tucked in all the way at the botton.
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Dec 1, 2012 17:48
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Before I have to deal with the bullshit that is eBay and/or NASIOC, I'm hoping to get rid of some parts from my $1400 junkyard 99 OBS engine swap and general repair project. I'm located in San Luis Obispo California, about 3 hours from LA, and 3.5 hours from SF. Everything is from a 99 or 2000 Impreza Outback Sport, probably fits anything from 93-01 complete 2.2L SOHC engine (99's original)(engine mounts and everything) $150 187K miles replaced fuel injectors, previous #3 had a bad injector and leaned out, burning a valve. Other cylinders have 190-210psi compression. Timing belt still attached, A/C bracket is cracked from lifting with it (don't do this). other parts: Driver side Mirror in Subaru Green Driver side mirror in black plastic driver side window motor passenger side window motor Complete 2.2L California airbox, includes new filter and hardware (no snorklet) air temp and crank/cam sensors complete tool kit in bag(lug wrench and screwdriver) tons of interior parts automatic transmission torque converter and flexplate 2 driver side window/power lock switches California MAP sensor 2.2L SOHC timing covers Huge pile of engine bolts/nuts and front suspenion bolts/nuts (California stuff so looks brand new!) idle air motor (iacv) driver window glass
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Dec 1, 2012 18:12
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DrChu posted:The zipper ends should be tucked in all the way at the botton. I was searching all over for them. Think this might be a manual job. As opposed to trying to close it myself... I might see if I can add a zip pull to it from Another zip
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Dec 1, 2012 20:27
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My brother's OBS needs new tires, we think. Are the 970A/S currently the best all season? Any others? For some reason the Discount Tire lists them as special order. Tire Rack reviewers seem to rate it a bit higher than the Continental ExtremeContact DWS. Edit: We ended up with Continental DWS. For whatever reason they didn't have RE970as in stock at the store. My brother had been driving with a nearly flat tire for a few days! 
Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Dec 2, 2012 |
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Dec 1, 2012 21:54
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Oh boy! Car is a 2002 Impreza RS So I had my passenger side inner axle boot replaced by a dealership. When I got back into the car, my CEL was on. I brought my keys back to them and right off the bat they denied that they had anything to do with it. But begrudgingly, they would look into it. Spits out error code P0031 Heater Control Circuit low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). They still flat out deny that they caused this, but offered to fix it for the low price of $200! What a bargain! So since I know very little, I looked into this. There are two sensor locations on the passenger side, one sensor is DIRECTLY BELOW the axle boot they were working on, and the other is forward of it which can be accessed via the wheel well. I am having trouble figuring out which sensor is which. Could someone tell me which one was the most likely to spit out the code? I am seeing conflicting info when I look into this online.  This IS an o2 sensor located underneath the axle on passenger side, correct? iSheep fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Dec 2, 2012 |
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Dec 2, 2012 00:59
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Looks like an o2 sensor. There's usually 2 in the exhaust on newer cars. One pre cat, one post cat. I don't know about subarus but the "first" sensor is usually the forward (pre cat) sensor. I'd assume that's the one we're looking at.
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Dec 2, 2012 02:17
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CharlesM posted:Edit: We ended up with Continental DWS. For whatever reason they didn't have RE970as in stock at the store. My brother had been driving with a nearly flat tire for a few days! I think the DWS are pretty spectacular tires FWIW. Especially if you live somewhere with any snow.
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Dec 2, 2012 02:29
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DreamOn13 posted:Looks like an o2 sensor. There's usually 2 in the exhaust on newer cars. One pre cat, one post cat. I don't know about subarus but the "first" sensor is usually the forward (pre cat) sensor. I'd assume that's the one we're looking at. I'm thinking its the rear sensor/post cat... And the code is related to the front. So I'm gonna try to replace the front sensor, seems easy enough from what I can see. Either way. Highly loving suspicious that this CEL code pops up after I get my car back from a repair.
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Dec 2, 2012 02:38
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I have DWS's on my legacy. I think they're pretty loud and mediocre normally, but I could not break traction or get the car to do anything fun in the snow today. That is good right.
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Dec 2, 2012 02:42
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As far as I've read, and experienced in my g35 with them, they're one of/the best high performance all season for snow. I never had issues with them being loud, but the g35 tends to have major road noise no matter the tire.
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Dec 2, 2012 07:17
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Yeah, I have them on my Mazda 3 and they seem good, but I have not tried snow use since I have a separate set. I wanted to try the RE970AS since it is newer and Tire Rack reviewers seem to like it too, but that's okay, the DWS work very well also. 
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Dec 2, 2012 09:58
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Alright based on the threads responses and talking to a few mates in the know I reckon that its a 75ish % chance of a write off. Any advice about buying the salvage in NSW? The tow driver that gave me a lift home said it would be about 3 to 4k. I figure I can buy it and part the car out/slap the undamaged go-fast bits (STi springs, fuel pump, undamaged whiteline/engine bits) into a stock (hopefully cheap) GD WRX.
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Dec 2, 2012 10:43
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I'm honestly surprised it took that sensor that long to die on your 02. Mine went years ago.
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Dec 2, 2012 20:26
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Chiwie posted:Alright based on the threads responses and talking to a few mates in the know I reckon that its a 75ish % chance of a write off. Talk to your insurance company. Should be doable if say it's Shannons
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Dec 2, 2012 22:26
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Yesterday, I took my STi on some sandy back roads near where I live. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlFKDAT5r1c
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Dec 2, 2012 22:59
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Cat Terrist posted:Talk to your insurance company. Should be doable if say it's Shannons Write off. Radiator was pushed into the timing covers. I'm with NRMA, apparently I have to buy it from auction.
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Dec 3, 2012 03:08
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So I spent my weekend putting the engine and transmission into the white TS, which went well. When I bought the car oginally, the transmission was pulled and the guy put a huge bolt and nut in place of the cv axle to hold the wheel together, ok cool. So I got the driver's side CV axle on, torqued everything down and.. wait, why is it so wobbly? There is a HUGE amount of play in the wheel, it rocks back and forth in seemingly every direction. The ball joint's aren't moving, just the actual hub where the studs mount to, and the cv axle. Does this sound like a wheel bearing? Are they a PITA to replace?
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Dec 3, 2012 06:27
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 Pretty sure that is a dent in my o2 sensor. Pretty sure I'm about to burn down the dealership.
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Dec 3, 2012 07:12
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iSheep posted:Pretty sure that is a dent in my o2 sensor. Yes that is a dent. Show the general manager that photo and see how fast their tune changes. If it doesn't change tell them about how much you love small claims court (even if you don't) and telling SoA about how a dealer damaged your subaru and refused to own up to their mistake and repair it.
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Dec 3, 2012 07:24
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I'm about to sell my nissan S14 and in thinking about winter I'm looking at a MY2000 Legacy GT-B, auto with 99, 000 miles. How strong is the automatic on these? Will it limit me adding more power later on?
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Dec 3, 2012 13:26
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BethelBAR posted:I'm about to sell my nissan S14 and in thinking about winter I'm looking at a MY2000 Legacy GT-B, auto with 99, 000 miles. How strong is the automatic on these? Will it limit me adding more power later on? The NA 2.5 would be your real hang up in terms of adding power.
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Dec 3, 2012 15:58
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A Legacy GTB is a twin turbocharged EJ20. From what I understand the auto is a little tougher than the 5-speed manual and shouldn't significantly impede your search for more power, but be aware that it is apparently a bitch to dyno an automatic Subaru (my local tuner has spent some time trying to figure it out for various FXTs) for reasons I don't remember.
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Dec 3, 2012 16:53
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I've noticed that my AT shifts pretty hard when I first start driving, especially on cold mornings. After it's had some time to warm up it stops clunking and smooths out considerably. Is this something I just have to live with, or a sign of a problem? Right now my solution has been to let the car idle for 5 mins or so before driving off, but sometimes I don't have that luxury. The car is 6 years old, but only has 30k on it. Time for a fluid change? Hillridge fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 17:21
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That sounds like every automatic transmission I've ever driven, ever, with the possible exception of Super Nintendo dual clutch paddle shifters. How cold is it?
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Dec 3, 2012 17:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A Legacy GTB is a twin turbocharged EJ20. Ooo well that's neat. Sure with the USDM got more cool stuff like that...
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Dec 3, 2012 17:54
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It's kind of a damp squib of a car compared to other turbo Subarus, but it is cheap, unique and very comfortable. It's a fairly popular import here because a lot of people can't drive stick and would rather learn to drive from the wrong side of the car than learn to work a clutch pedal and stick. The power transition from one turbo to another is not very smooth and it's in general kind of a pain in the rear end to do work on. There also obviously isn't much in the way of aftermarket support unless you do basically a single turbo conversion (not sure about tuning support). I see a lot of them get imported here and then put up for sale again almost immediately. If you're really interested in performance, see if you can get a single turbo Legacy GT. As a cruiser it seems fine. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 17:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's kind of a damp squib of a car compared to other turbo Subarus, but it is cheap, unique and very comfortable. It's a fairly popular import here because a lot of people can't drive stick and would rather learn to drive from the wrong side of the car than learn to work a clutch pedal and stick. Thanks for the info, I found one of these, and also a Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 (again I don't think these were imported to the US but they're twin turbo V6, 280hp with Active Yaw Control). Out of the two the Subaru just seems less of a daunting option in terms of maintenance costs and potential headaches.
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Dec 3, 2012 18:50
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