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cheesebot posted:Did you try spraying a little ether in the carb before starting. If it starts up then you may just need the bystarter (automatic choke thingy). It's a common part that goes bad on these and is readily available. I would do a compression test myself before committing to a ring job - how much compression was on the mechanic's report? It may just need a valve adjustment. I'll check the mechanic's report and post tonight
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Nov 7, 2012 17:30
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Astonishing Wang posted:Is ether the same as starter fluid? I'm pretty new to mechanic work and I've never owned anything with a carb. I'll try a squirt once I can get some from the parts store. Thanks a lot! Plug the spark plug hole with your finger while someone try to start it, if your can't keep the hole sealed because air is pushing your finger to escape then you have enough compression to have it running, but if you can keep it plugged without air leak for multiples crankshaft rotations then something is broken in the top engine, you could get away with piston rings and piston but it might be broken as in new cylinder and head. Also if you have some compression, put start fluid in the carb and also in the compression chamber throught the spark plug hole, if you have ignition and compression it will fire right up. Also check your spark and buy a new spark plug (NGK please) Good luck
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Nov 7, 2012 18:01
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cheesebot posted:Did you try spraying a little ether in the carb before starting. If it starts up then you may just need the bystarter (automatic choke thingy). It's a common part that goes bad on these and is readily available. I would do a compression test myself before committing to a ring job - how much compression was on the mechanic's report? It may just need a valve adjustment. The mechanic's report put the compression at 30psi. I wasn't able to do the finger check today, but I was able to take off the side covers and the muffler. One step closer to the engine. I also discovered a momma brown widow and about a million egg sacks.   Does this look like an aftermarket rear suspension? 
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Nov 9, 2012 04:51
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Sup vintage scooter bros. An interesting project hit our shop today. A 1956 Zündapp Bella R201. Needs a little work: I'd heard of these but never really seen one. It's pretty pimp. 200cc, has an earles fork with a monoshock, and electric start. gently caress yeah. It'll look something like this when we're done, probably in a couple years, except in robin's egg blue: 
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Nov 11, 2012 01:55
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That is rad. If you get much going on it I'd love to see updates. I looked at the pictures before the text and had no loving clue what I was seeing.
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Nov 11, 2012 02:12
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Is that second leg shield going to be sold or is the other one trashed?
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Nov 11, 2012 13:40
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There are a few duplicate parts, I assume we're just going to use the better items and give the others back to the owner. I should have taken a picture of the rear sprocket/drum. It had been worn down at some point and someone tried to repair the teeth but never finished it. So each tooth has a big glob of metal welded on the end of it. They never cut the teeth down to the proper shape.
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Nov 11, 2012 16:46
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I had a chance to check out my scooter a little more. For reference - it's a 2001 Honda Elite 80. I bought it cheap and it supposedly didn't have enough compression to start. I put in a new spark plug and charged the battery and it actually started! I thought I was on easy street, but it only started a couple of times and now I can't get it to catch at all. It turns but won't start. So far I've done the following things: - Checked valve clearance, set at specs from the manual (.002/.051mm) - New spark plug (and double checked gap) - Freshly charged battery (not sure how good the battery is though) - Cleaned carb, though it didn't look too bad at all - Cleaned out air filter, it's a foam element - should I replace with OEM paper? - Cleaned crankcase air filter element I checked compression by putting my finger over the hole and cranking and it didn't push enough air out to move my finger. I have a compression tester but the adapters are too big for the spark plug hole. I held it over the hole as well as I could and got around 60psi. I also tried starter fluid in the spark plug hole and the airbox, no joy. Soooooo, I need to plan my course of action. Should I just order a set of rings and hope that they're the problem? New Piston and rings? I assume the air filter isn't the problem but would I be better off with OEM? This one was soaked with oil, which I assume is to catch dust and stuff?
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Nov 13, 2012 03:45
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Astonishing Wang posted:
Compression, spark, fuel. Try and narrow down your problem. Is the spark good (blue and strong)? Did you dissemble the jets in the carb and clean them out good? Valves set at correct tdc? Sounds most likely piston/rings, especially if it won't blow your finger off the spark plug hole, but i'm just taking a shot.
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Nov 13, 2012 05:06
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I'd heard of these but never really seen one. It's pretty pimp. 200cc, has an earles fork with a monoshock, and electric start. 
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Nov 18, 2012 02:17
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Sweet. Now I know what "signalhorn" means in German.
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Nov 18, 2012 09:41
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velocross posted:Compression, spark, fuel. Try and narrow down your problem. Is the spark good (blue and strong)? Did you dissemble the jets in the carb and clean them out good? Valves set at correct tdc? I took the engine apart all the way down to removing the cylinder and piston. I was putting on the new piston and dropped one of the piston pin clips into the crank case  So Now I have the whole engine (complete with rear wheel) in my bedroom waiting to take the crankcase apart to find the little fucker. At least now I can see what all is going on inside the crankcase, and I'll be able to clean out the oil filter screen. I'm going to be learning a lot more from this project than I planned  Here's the cylinder head and the old piston, the rings felt pretty loose but I haven't measured them yet. It sure is crapped up with carbon! The inside of the cylinder looks to be in very good shape.   What's the best way to remove the carbon build up?
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Nov 20, 2012 17:15
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I've always had good results with a wire wheel
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Nov 20, 2012 17:20
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I use sandpaper
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Nov 21, 2012 02:09
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Be careful however you do it, you don't want to mess up the surface of the piston or gouge it or anything. Be gentle. Use a soft metal wire wheel if you're doing it that way.
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Nov 21, 2012 03:18
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I came across this a while back Wang, should help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH-4GbGZCrc Do you have the repair manual for your scooter? Also, doesn't really help right now but stuff the crank with paper towels or rags when you're doing the circlips.
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Nov 21, 2012 03:33
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I did have a paper towel crammed in around the connecting rod, but I neglected the slot that the chain rides in Any tips on the circlips? Those things are rough. I do have the manual, it's great. Thanks for the video!
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Nov 21, 2012 04:07
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I'm registered for the regional championship in Street AC category with the Booster Rocket and in 70 Racing category with my swapped Rocket. Street AC category is anything aircooled with engines between 51cc and 100cc, also I'm exempted from all the safety equipment except a dead man kill switch. 70 Racing is LC engines, 70cc max with dual parts head. Anyway for the event I just started to build a new engine for the AC Rocket, it's the first time I spend any money for an event but last year with a mediocre setup I finished 2nd in the track event and 5th in the 400m drag races so I'm pretty confident I should win something with a serious engine. Just finished assembling the engine, it runs but I don't have a good exhaust so it's not on the frame yet. Engine Specs : MXS Racing 70cc Cylinder TNT One Racing crankshaft with C4 SKS Teflon bearings Stock ignition (not enough funds but it only holds me back for drag) Del'orto 21 PHBG carb Yasuni Carrera 16 exhaust Stage 6 Big Valve intake kit Stage 6 Vitton reed box Malossi MHR Overrange variator Malossi Delta Clutch Malossi MHR Overrange Torque converter Malossi MHR Overrange Kevlar Belt 13" Aprilia SR Rear rim with Michelin Pure Power 2CT for track event 13" Nitro/Aerox rear rim with Stage6 slick for drag Current Carb Setup : Main Jet : 87 Needle : 4th slot Variator Setup: 5,5gr rollers Malossi Red torque spring` Malossi Black clutch spring Clutch weights at medium setting I'm still missing the exhaust and machined adapter for rear wheels, this cylinder is rated at 19hp by manufacturer and I'm using the recommended setup, I event ditched my Malossi MHR exhaust because manufacturer is saying the C16 is the best, anyway will post some photos and videos once everything is ready to race. Anyway due to building this engine from scratch pretty much all my old parts are for sale, if you want any minarelli vertical or horizontal parts, chances are that I have them, including a bunch of racing parts like the Malossi MHR exhaust (which is pretty much the best pipe for high end 50cc to mid race 70cc) Edit: my swapped rocket engine is staying the same as last year Sh4 fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Nov 23, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 01:01
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What sort of idle jet are you running? Needle? I have the same carburetor and am bogging from a start if I've been sitting a while, yet I have a lean spot immediately afterward from about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, even with the clip in its richest setting on the stock needle. Currently I have a #37 idle and a #92 main. Looks like I can lean them both out even further if your racing setup is. My reed block is an aluminum Doppler S2R with carbon reeds. I also have a Malossi block spacer, but my setup didn't seem to like it at all.
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Nov 23, 2012 04:43
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Rugoberta Munchu posted:What sort of idle jet are you running? Needle? I have the same carburetor and am bogging from a start if I've been sitting a while, yet I have a lean spot immediately afterward from about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, even with the clip in its richest setting on the stock needle. Currently I have a #37 idle and a #92 main. Looks like I can lean them both out even further if your racing setup is. My reed block is an aluminum Doppler S2R with carbon reeds. I also have a Malossi block spacer, but my setup didn't seem to like it at all. I don't know which idle jet I have have but I'm using W7 and W11 needles depending on weather, I'll document my setup once I can do a few setup runs, changing the exhaust will probably change all my carb settings. About your problem, it's usually good practice to never use richest and leanest slots for needle height, you have to first set up the main jet by doing WOT runs and checking spark plug color, then you adjust the needle height by playing around between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle. It takes some trials and errors to set it up right but if have difficulties to make power and surges with "backfire" noise then it's too lean. If at the contrary it's just bogging down it's usually too rich. Hope this helps, my engine should be ready for tuning next week, I'll try to document as much as I can. Also since some time I have some kind of personal project of a scooter tutorials website, with comprehensive step by step guides and videos tuts, let me know if anyone is interested about running this, I planned to do it in french only but it would be great to have an english version as well.
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Nov 23, 2012 12:04
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Learned a couple more things about it. Average everyday carb.  But wait, the float cap has no fuel line connector, and the needle isn't pointy...  And what's going on in the other end?  And where is that needle going???   And...    WHY
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Nov 25, 2012 01:51
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Gee, wonder why that didn't catch on. Here, have a few more Vento updates:  The original throttle cable was a craptastic split version which controlled the carburetor slide and oil pump. I found a replacement single cable that worked, but the other end didn't screw into my throttle housing and wiggled around. I found another one which screwed into the housing, but the other end was too big to fit in the throttle slide and it was too long anyway. I wound up cutting it down and made a new end from a clamped and ground-down electrical terminal. I ground it down further after this was taken so none of it pokes down past the top of the slide and into the path of the fuel/air mixture.  While bleeding my front brake, I discovered my reservoir was fulla sludge. Also, my brake fluid looked like coffee.  Doppler aluminum reed block and Malossi block spacer results in a gasket Dagwood. I later removed the spacer as I ran into lean issues because of it.  Old busted seat bucket next to new unbusted one. That is the only thing supporting my weight. In the process of replacing it, I cut my hand on the old one when it exploded into a bunch of pointy shards while unscrewing the seat hinge. Better then than while I was riding it, I suppose.  Here are the old front seat bucket supports, which were starting to crack and also resemble a screaming robot. The Engrishtastic warning label says: quote:In order to perform your new motorcycle perfectly, please supply 2.5% special two stroke engine oil to the fuel before starting your new vehicle (100km). Don't race your engine long if you don't want to run.  Brand new seat and the old one which was broken in a few zillion places. I used to have to give it CPR to get it to close, and even then that only worked sometimes.  I actually prefer the old seat material on the right, but the new one is narrower and allows me to sit farther forward, meaning I can actually carry a passenger.
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Nov 25, 2012 07:15
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Engine is on the bike, did some test with the Malossi MHR exhaust, it's a loving Rocket and we did some testing with my full Malossi T-Max and I loving destroy it, the T-Max will only catch up at 55mph. Then I put the Yasuni C16 and it's running like poo poo, will have a lot of tuning to do, carb settings are so awful I can't even get it to rev properly to check spark plug color so will have to guess for jets, vario weights seems way too heavy too so will put like 4grs to get it going.
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Nov 27, 2012 19:54
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What kind of lifespan are you hoping to get from the engine? At 19hp it couldn't last long.
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Nov 28, 2012 00:41
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open24hours posted:What kind of lifespan are you hoping to get from the engine? At 19hp it couldn't last long.
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Nov 28, 2012 02:37
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Ahh yeah fair enough. I guess I'd consider replacing the rings and bearings more of a rebuild than maintenance, but I suppose it doesn't take too long if you know what you're doing.
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Nov 28, 2012 06:32
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Sh4 posted:Then I put the Yasuni C16 and it's running like poo poo, will have a lot of tuning to do, carb settings are so awful I can't even get it to rev properly to check spark plug color so will have to guess for jets, vario weights seems way too heavy too so will put like 4grs to get it going. Rugoberta Munchu fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 08:19
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Rugoberta Munchu posted:Is the Malossi blue torque spring a higher RPM rating than the red one?
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Nov 28, 2012 13:29
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I see. Odd that nobody seems to make one stiffer than 2,000 RPM for the Minarelli.
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Nov 28, 2012 15:50
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Rugoberta Munchu posted:I see. Odd that nobody seems to make one stiffer than 2,000 RPM for the Minarelli. Btw it's loving raining since 2 days so I couldnt tune my carb properly but I got it to work almost as well as with my old exhaust, using 95 main jet and 6gr rollers for now but its still not working right, only makes power at redline, will try to mess with ignition timing
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Nov 29, 2012 02:47
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Torque springs are sometimes rated by the number of RPMs beyond stock that the drive side supposedly will spin before they compress. One of mine says 2000RPM on it, anyway. Malossi just color codes theirs according to stiffness rather than RPM, since that makes way more sense as engine power is all over the place.
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Nov 29, 2012 08:43
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On a lark, I just signed up to get started with these guys http://www.scootnetworks.com/ after riding around today and seeing a bunch of little red scooters lined up like a bikeshare station. That's basically what it is -- electric scooter rentals that work like bike rentals or zipcars, with a flexible sharing strategy where you sign one out with your iPhone then just park them at a station anywhere around the city when you're done. A little more complex than bike-sharing (you need to go through their orientation) but not as much as a zipcar (you don't need to actually have a motorcycle license). Apparently I'm now in their "beta" program, whatever that means in this context. Seems like a smart idea and also a terrifying one. Granted the scooters only go up to about 30 miles an hour, but I've learned to give zipcars a very wide berth, so I can imagine it only gets worse when you get people with no 2-wheel experience whatsoever trying to share the road on an unfamiliar vehicle. But I figured hey, never ridden a scooter before, let's give it a shot. What do you think of that company and their business plan? Think it'll take off, or make the roll but stall out and crash, or just explode inside the hangar? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 10:08
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I just checked their website - this is in San Francisco? I've never been there myself, but I've always been under the impression that SF basically meant hills of death and traffic to match. I don't know what the balls a zipcar is supposed to be, but I'd officially be worried about the swarm of knobs on these scooters. e: Oh, so zipcars are like car2go. Okay. Eh. I've never had an issue with that sort of thing, myself.
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Dec 3, 2012 12:58
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Sagebrush posted:On a lark, I just signed up to get started with these guys http://www.scootnetworks.com/ All I think is that it's you bastids taking my parking spots in soma! It seems like a cool idea though, especially for people like me who might want to cruise around the city yet not deal with cabs and other BS. I think their success really depends on their ability to interface with/be a part of the biking community locally.
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Dec 3, 2012 19:15
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Sagebrush posted:On a lark, I just signed up to get started with these guys http://www.scootnetworks.com/ I'm torn. It's an awesome idea (zipcar and its ilk work great for some people), but also terrifying. My experience seeing zipcars on the road is similar to yours, and I stay very clear of them. And here in Seattle in the summer I occasionally see people on rental scooters, and they look about as skilled and comfortable and safe as you'd expect. At least subscribers to this would be better than rental riders, since they'd have to take this orientation you mentioned (and I doubt the shop that rents here does much) and they'd eventually acquire some decent riding experience.
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Dec 3, 2012 20:12
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Just scheduled the orientation. This Friday, gonna ride down to the location on my motorbike, then switch over to the scooter which I apparently have for the rest of the night. May look a little dorky in all the leather and a full-face on a 1.2kW electric scooter but ATGATT man  e: VVV yeaaaaaaaaaah https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQAMnD13AwI Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 20:55
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You'll only look like a dork if you don't ride around dragging knee everywhere.
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Dec 3, 2012 21:05
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Sagebrush posted:Just scheduled the orientation. This Friday, gonna ride down to the location on my motorbike, then switch over to the scooter which I apparently have for the rest of the night. May look a little dorky in all the leather and a full-face on a 1.2kW electric scooter but ATGATT man Hey we do this in the US, too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvkWlrcpNxU e: and this crazy bastard on a Honda Dio (50cc) racing with 'tards https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvgtUbm1l2U Gay Nudist Dad fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 21:34
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I managed to disassemble the transmission, re-spring my clutch and put everything back together in less than half an hour. Soon I'll be able to do this stuff blindfolded. Going from 2000 RPM to 3000 RPM springs has definitely improved acceleration and overall feel of awesomeness.
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Dec 5, 2012 09:46
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Sagebrush posted:On a lark, I just signed up to get started with these guys http://www.scootnetworks.com/ What kind of scooters are those? They'll never, ever come to my city, so my only hope would be to just own such a scoot myself. I like the range numbers they quote, speeds, etc. Any brand or naming, or did they really obliterate any trace of where they come from?
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Dec 5, 2012 17:28
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