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Seat Safety Switch posted:That sounds like every automatic transmission I've ever driven, ever, with the possible exception of Super Nintendo dual clutch paddle shifters. Not as cold as it's going to get (been 30s-40s lately).
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Dec 3, 2012 18:55
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I'm about to do a stereo/amplifier install on my Crosstrek and I'd planned on removing the passenger seat to mount the amplifier. The Subaru docs say that the airbag sensor needs to be recalibrated at the dealership if you pull the seat. Has anyone dealt with this before? I'd rather not have to go to the dealership if I can avoid it. I might just try to get it in there without pulling the seat if it's an issue.
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Dec 3, 2012 18:55
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I'm considering replacing my 2012 Impreza's headunit with some graduation/xmas monies. I have no plans for new speakers/amp/whatever at this time, just the headunit. How feasible is this for me to do? Note that I have never taken a vehicle's dash apart and if the cost of someone else doing it isn't too high I'd rather pay for someone else being responsible for loving it up. Related to the above, if I am going to pay someone how do I go about finding someone that does this work? Can Best Buy staff be trusted? (lol)
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Dec 3, 2012 20:07
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powderific posted:I'm about to do a stereo/amplifier install on my Crosstrek and I'd planned on removing the passenger seat to mount the amplifier. The Subaru docs say that the airbag sensor needs to be recalibrated at the dealership if you pull the seat. Has anyone dealt with this before? I'd rather not have to go to the dealership if I can avoid it. I might just try to get it in there without pulling the seat if it's an issue. Seems kind of ridiculous. I'd call them first to confirm if that's true. Otherwise, if you wanted to risk it I would unplug the battery, unplug the seat, then go about your business and plug the seat back in before the battery. If that fails, take it to the dealer afterwards, it's under warranty. If they can't see what you did with the install then they'll probably just clear it and send you on your way.
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Dec 3, 2012 20:20
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BethelBAR posted:Out of the two the Subaru just seems less of a daunting option in terms of maintenance costs and potential headaches. Yeah. To get more out of the TT legacy you basically have to rip out the turbo system and swap in a single setup from a newer car. Then find a way to tune it which will mean a different ecu (like from wrx) or a piggyback of some sort. So a lot of work. The 4 speeds are know to deal with more than the newer 5eat so that probably won't be an issue. How about an older EVO?
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Dec 3, 2012 20:58
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Totally TWISTED posted:I'm considering replacing my 2012 Impreza's headunit with some graduation/xmas monies. I have no plans for new speakers/amp/whatever at this time, just the headunit. I'm doing it on mine this week. I can take pictures and let you know how much of a pain it is. Really, it shouldn't be a big deal. ae64 dude makes a harness adapter and it doesn't look like there's anything particularly tricky about the install. DreamOn13 posted:Seems kind of ridiculous. I'd call them first to confirm if that's true. Otherwise, if you wanted to risk it I would unplug the battery, unplug the seat, then go about your business and plug the seat back in before the battery. If that fails, take it to the dealer afterwards, it's under warranty. If they can't see what you did with the install then they'll probably just clear it and send you on your way. Yeah, I finally found another thread where people had taken out the seat with no issue. Also found the procedure for recalibrating, which seems to only involve zeroing the weight sensor for the seat. I can't see how that would change at all just pulling it out and putting it back in. It might not wind up making a difference since I managed to slide the 17" long amp under the seat rails with no issues. If I can do the same with wires attached I may be able to avoid taking it out all together.
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Dec 3, 2012 21:06
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I'm a ricer. http://i.imgur.com/y1EGe.jpg I also did stainless steel brake lines and bled the brakes. Pedal feel drastically improved: I most certainly was overdue on changing the fluid.
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Dec 3, 2012 21:42
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BethelBAR posted:Thanks for the info, I found one of these, and also a Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 (again I don't think these were imported to the US but they're twin turbo V6, 280hp with Active Yaw Control). Out of the two the Subaru just seems less of a daunting option in terms of maintenance costs and potential headaches. This is probably an unpopular opinion in the subaru thread, but I think a manual Legnum is going to be a more reliable car than a GTB. They have their own quirks but seem to suffer from fewer catastrophic engine failures than the Subarus. Perhaps they hold up under abuse (skipped oil changes and bad fuel) better. sanchez fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 3, 2012 |
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Dec 3, 2012 21:51
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Roman Rambo posted:I'm a ricer. http://i.imgur.com/y1EGe.jpg You did all that and left the poop on your hood?
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Dec 3, 2012 21:53
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powderific posted:I'm doing it on mine this week. I can take pictures and let you know how much of a pain it is. Really, it shouldn't be a big deal. ae64 dude makes a harness adapter and it doesn't look like there's anything particularly tricky about the install. 
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Dec 3, 2012 21:55
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Faerunner posted:You did all that and left the poop on your hood? The bird poo poo adds horsepower. I'll clean it soon, I promise.
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Dec 3, 2012 22:06
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Totally TWISTED posted:That would be awesome. I won't be doing mine for at least two weeks so don't rush too much for me Allright, as promised: photos! They're terrible camera phone photos since I was more concerned with the install than busting out a camera, but it might help a bit. I haven't done the amplifier or speakers yet—they may have to wait for the weekend since it's a little bit more involved and I'm still not sure how exactly I'll be mounting the tweeters and crossovers. Here's what I used to install the headunit:
Steps it took: First up, I very carefully followed the AE64 directions to solder the two harnesses and ASWC together. This was pretty straightforward except for me using too small heat shrink tubing and having to use electrical tape for most of the connections. I also made an adapter for the stock USB port (you can sortof see it at the bottom of the second image.)   Then I disconnect the car battery and gathered my stuff for the install. To pull the panel, you have to get under the dash and disconnect two climate control linkages. There's one connection on each side. The Subaru and other guides claim you need to pull the glove box and lower dash, but I didn't need to and I'm not sure why you would other than comfort.  At first I thought you only had to disconnect the wire from the white thing, but you actually need to pop out the sheath too (this is probably self explanatory to most people) Then I took this little yellow crowbar thing and popped out middle dash, starting from the top. At first it seemed like the seam was waaay too tight to get apart, but the little crowbar thing worked like a charm. Note that I mostly just used it as a wedge and didn't do any major prying.  Once you get the panel unclipped, there are two electrical connection you need to unplug. One is on the hazard button, the other is down by the climate controls. Both of them have one of those little thingies you press down to release, so don't just tug on them for ages like I did.  Now you can pull the panel down and pull the head unit. It's just four screws and a bunch of plugs on the back. I connected the new one to everything it could connect to, ran the mic for bluetooth, ran RCA cables down to my amp location, and pulled the Metra ASWC down to the driver's side footwell so I'd be able to look at it for troubleshooting.  Then I reconnected the battery and started it up. I'm reeeeally glad I put the Metra in an accessible location as it did not auto detect my steering wheel controls properly. The manual setup worked great though. And here it is:  It took a bit of time but wasn't all that difficult really. Just make sure you don't rush it and take breaks to plan out your next step if something isn't working. All told it took me somewhere around 3 hours. Helpful links: This thread has some good pictures and info in it, but you'll have to go through all 14 or so pages to find them: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2312813 Harness and SWC info (but the ASWC from him if you need it since he'll flash the firmware to most recent): http://ae64.com/20-pin-pinout.htm Subaru PDF that has some steps for removing the headunit: http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/66342/pdf/066342-H630SFJ000.pdf
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Dec 4, 2012 07:22
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Awesome writeup, thanks for the links too. Could you post a picture of your steering wheel controls as one final request from me?
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Dec 4, 2012 07:38
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Just a little update on my boost issue with the legacy after i've driven the car a little. I've got a new turbo coming in but would like an idea of what's wrong with the current one and/or supporting hardware. Sport# mode on the I-drive - Max boost set at ~22psi. The car will not hold this in the lower gears (1,2,3). It will spike up to 22 then immediately drop to about 10psi where it stays. However i discovered that it will hold the commanded boost in 4th and 5th without issues, gradually tapering off as set. Sport mode - Max boost 15psi, holds this fine in all gears. jamal previous suggested the turbo inlet hose, which is a new samco one i had installed just before the tune. I haven't had a chance to test that out but then discovered that the boost holds in 4th and 5th. Would that rule out the inlet hose? The only thing that comes to mind is that the boost builds up quicker in the lower gears. Next week i'm having the tuner bring down the boost to around 17-18psi as an experiment to see if the same issue comes up, but i just thought i'd pick your collective brains on this matter. To be honest there's not much of a difference in power between the 22psi and 15psi, i'm sure the car is restricted by the intake/intercooler/exhaust that the extra boost is just making a whole lot of noise and not much more.
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Dec 4, 2012 11:43
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Well the starter problem stopped, but on Saturday I noticed some fun little puddles under the bottom of my WRX. From the looks of it they started showing up about a week and a half ago, with no noticeable symptoms. It doesn't look or smell like oil, and I cant get under my car to see it better until the weekend. After poking around last night it looks like there is a lot of wetness under the alternator on the front of the block, right around the power steering pump. I had suspected I had a small PSP leak a while back because my fluid was slowly disappearing but after I filled it a few weeks ago it hasn't been an issue. Any other ideas besides that? I've gotten decent at pulling the basic things out of the car but feel like it might just be best to take it to the dealership to have them overcharge me and repair/replace it. Unless anyone has a good shop in AZ in the Tempe/Scottsdale area!
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Dec 4, 2012 15:33
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Have you been running the air conditioning? There's an AC drain sort of near there on the passenger side, though I have no idea how it would end up on your alt. Power steering fluid smells pretty distinctive, pop the cap on the reservoir and take a whiff and see if that's the same one.
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Dec 4, 2012 15:41
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Totally TWISTED posted:Awesome writeup, thanks for the links too. Could you post a picture of your steering wheel controls as one final request from me? It was hard to get a good shot, but I ran the unit through the climate control linkages hole down to the footwell. Once I had everything programmed, I used some servo tape to stick it to a bit of sheet metal down there. Pretty much any flat surface would probably do.  You can sortof see the climate control doohickey in the background.
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Dec 4, 2012 16:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Have you been running the air conditioning? There's an AC drain sort of near there on the passenger side, though I have no idea how it would end up on your alt. Nope, no AC for weeks, and when it does drain its further to the left (if looking into the engine bay). I tried to collect a bit of it overnight and it feels vaguely oily and is slightly yellow/amber. No real discernable smell either. I guess it could be a mixture of oil and water or something. Looked this morning after I drove in to work and the block is fairly dry under the alternator so that's good I guess. There is also a really small reservoir/indent behind the PSP that seems to be collecting something - I'll try to get a picture later. I really need to take that stupid plastic rock guard off the bottom so I can see where its dripping from!
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Dec 4, 2012 16:43
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powderific posted:It was hard to get a good shot, but I ran the unit through the climate control linkages hole down to the footwell. Once I had everything programmed, I used some servo tape to stick it to a bit of sheet metal down there. Pretty much any flat surface would probably do. Gah I wasn't very clear sorry. I'm wondering how the controls look mounted on the steering wheel. Unless you already had the Subaru steering wheel controls and just wired those into your new radio. In which case ignore me.
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Dec 4, 2012 18:21
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Oh, the Metra ASWC lets you use your existing steering wheel controls with an aftermarket deck. Didn't realize you could get the Impreza without them. Looks like you can add them back in with a few parts if you're feeling industrious.
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Dec 4, 2012 18:38
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Finally got my Rally Armor flaps yesterday and installed them this morning. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Pulling the front of my side skirt off required a bit of muscling that scared me at first but after that it was smooth sailing. Took about 45 minutes to do it using my sloped driveway as a sort of lift for the rear-end of the car. Here's two iPod pictures, pretty pleased with how they look.   I think my next step will be getting the Kartboy short throw and bushing combo kit. The rubbery feel of the stock bushings has been bugging me lately. Edit: There's my Grandma!
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Dec 4, 2012 19:43
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raffie posted:Just a little update on my boost issue with the legacy after i've driven the car a little. I've got a new turbo coming in but would like an idea of what's wrong with the current one and/or supporting hardware. It's normal for a car to make less boost in the lower gears where there is less load. Less load means slower spool and less power. But having it spike and then drop off in 3rd but hold all the way to redline in 4th is strange. And yes, since in 4th it doesn't fall flat I would be less likely to blame the IC hose. When that happens you will come into boost and then the car basically stops because the inlet sucks shut and doesn't allow much air into the turbo. Could you list all the related parts on the car?
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Dec 4, 2012 21:11
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Mikemo Tyson posted:Finally got my Rally Armor flaps yesterday and installed them this morning. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Pulling the front of my side skirt off required a bit of muscling that scared me at first but after that it was smooth sailing. Took about 45 minutes to do it using my sloped driveway as a sort of lift for the rear-end of the car. I'm so glad you don't have them sticking 6" out the sides and dragging on the ground.
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Dec 5, 2012 00:49
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jamal posted:It's normal for a car to make less boost in the lower gears where there is less load. Less load means slower spool and less power. But having it spike and then drop off in 3rd but hold all the way to redline in 4th is strange. And yes, since in 4th it doesn't fall flat I would be less likely to blame the IC hose. When that happens you will come into boost and then the car basically stops because the inlet sucks shut and doesn't allow much air into the turbo. Yeah the car basically stopping is a good description of it. The car still runs with the stock airbox+drop in filter, a samco inlet hose to the turbo, a zage td05-20g which exits into a legacy fitment AVO tmic. Aftermarket 3 port boost solenoid. Exhaust is pretty much stock except for a decat and Trust PE mufflers at the back. Lots of restrictions in there but there are legal issues to consider over here. Looks like i'll really need to find the time to get the hose checked out and source a replacement.
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Dec 5, 2012 01:48
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Have you done a boost leak test?
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Dec 5, 2012 01:57
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blargle posted:Have you done a boost leak test? Yep, everything checked out alright. It's holding the boost just fine in 4th and 5th, just not the lower gears. If i switch to the S mode which has boost set at around 15-16psi, no issues are encountered even in the lower gears. Maybe samco inlet hoses are just lovely.
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Dec 5, 2012 02:04
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raffie posted:Yep, everything checked out alright. It's holding the boost just fine in 4th and 5th, just not the lower gears. If i switch to the S mode which has boost set at around 15-16psi, no issues are encountered even in the lower gears. Maybe samco inlet hoses are just lovely. Or there's an error in the tune for S# mode at the load/rpm levels where it's losing power.
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Dec 5, 2012 08:34
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Yeah if it's ok in the higher gears with a lot of load the inlet is probably fine. If there's much of a kink where it goes around the manifold into the turbo you might want to try readjusting things a bit. Is the car getting tuned on the dyno or road? Diagnostics are a little easier on a dyno
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Dec 5, 2012 08:57
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Kill me now. Subaru No 8 has been found. I am sooooooooo loving pathetic. (Pics in a few days. Goddamn it. I'm not going to stop until I get a 22B, am I?)
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Dec 5, 2012 10:45
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Cat Terrist posted:Kill me now. Looks like I wont be able to afford the auction salvage for mine. Do you want me to keep you posted? The engine is gone, but it might be good for parts for your fleet. edit: You need that 22b. Chiwie fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Dec 5, 2012 |
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Dec 5, 2012 10:56
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Yeah let us know. I suppose we might need some parts. (A 22B might be regarded as inferior. It's a MY06 Spec C with all the STI homologation crap on it. Yeah, it's real. Yes its got 975 kms on it. Yes it's front end is damaged. But factory plated diffs, factory PWRC diff controllers, factory goddamn everything and lightweight everything.... Still...... 22B. One day)
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Dec 5, 2012 11:12
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jamal posted:Yeah if it's ok in the higher gears with a lot of load the inlet is probably fine. If there's much of a kink where it goes around the manifold into the turbo you might want to try readjusting things a bit. Right now it's being road tuned. Once everything is sorted then it'll spend some time on the dyno with final checks on the road. Looks like it's time for a more in-depth investigation. Thanks guys.
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Dec 5, 2012 15:19
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Cat Terrist posted:Kill me now. What ever makes you think you'd stop with a 22B? There is no light at the end of this tunnel for your addiction. You're just hoarding now... And we all love it.
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Dec 5, 2012 15:48
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Cat Terrist posted:Kill me now. How about an STI swapped Brat?
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Dec 5, 2012 16:37
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Amandyke posted:How about an STI swapped Brat? They call them the Brumby, and someone already did it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enMDCVKVjUc
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Dec 5, 2012 16:47
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Every iteration of Subaru Group A cars would be a nice start.
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Dec 5, 2012 18:28
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ssjonizuka posted:What ever makes you think you'd stop with a 22B? There is no light at the end of this tunnel for your addiction. You're just hoarding now... So is Cat Terrist to Subarus what Viggen is to Saabs?
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Dec 5, 2012 20:17
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Faerunner posted:So is Cat Terrist to Subarus what Viggen is to Saabs? I've sold some of my cars.. V  V
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Dec 5, 2012 22:20
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So the 04 Forester XT (5 speed) needs a new radiator. Options: 1800radiator.com (APDI): $169 Napa: $233 Mishimoto aluminum: $305 OEM: $339 Koyo aluminum: $370 This is the second OEM radiator I've had go bad, so I'd rather not go OEM. After seeing how often the OEM part fails, the cheaper options from Napa and 1800radiator.com scare me. I'd also rather not spend $370 on the Koyo. Which leaves the Mishimoto. Has anyone used the Mishimoto? Am I missing any other options? Thoughts?
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Dec 6, 2012 02:49
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I've sent a couple to people. Basically the construction of the core isn't quite as good but it still has quite a bit more capacity over the stock radiator. Sometimes the radiator cap leaks but they are pretty good about warranty stuff. Also I could probably save you a couple bucks off those prices, especially the mishimoto because I get free shipping on them.
jamal fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Dec 6, 2012 |
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Dec 6, 2012 03:09
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