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I like my mishimoto one. Its bigger than stock, and ya their radiator caps kinda suck but they seem to replace it if you need it. Also everything bolted up perfectly, so that surprised me a bit.
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Dec 6, 2012 04:16
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Just want to say that I got my car running! Took the engine out of the black (rolled) car, swapped heads on it with nicer ones I had, changed seals, some clutch bearings etc, had to swap strut assemblies over and brakes, whole exhaust, and other bits. Basically I took my white car, which was a parts car with no engine or transmission, and turned it into a daily driver. I started it up tonight with no problem whatsoever and it runs fantastic, with no glaring leaks that I could find. I'm so happy to not only have a car again, but a Subaru! Plus this has been my biggest project to date, and it went fairly smooth. So stoked.
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Dec 6, 2012 06:56
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I have a 1800radiator radiator and have had no issues with my wrx.
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Dec 6, 2012 07:52
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I put a deposit down on a unicorn. It popped up 10 minutes away from me and I'd been looking for a 9-2x for awhile. 2006 9-2x, black, 103k miles, 5 speed, HID's, leather, all stock. One owner, dealer maintained, in amazing shape inside and out. CEL is on for secondary air pump and it needs the timing belt done. Jamal, what can you do for me?  For the air pump, I'm thinking of just finding somebody to turn off the diagnostic for it/block it off. Only plans so far are downpipe, tune, and maybe some suspension stuff and a better head unit.
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Dec 7, 2012 00:46
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I ordered some block off plates not too long ago but haven't bothered to do the job myself yet. Seems like it might be a relatively large pain in the rear end.
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Dec 7, 2012 01:04
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DreamOn13 posted:I put a deposit down on a unicorn. It popped up 10 minutes away from me and I'd been looking for a 9-2x for awhile. In my opinion it's easiest to wait until the air pump is closed (hopefully it does close, and isn't stuck open), pull the fuse, and tune it out. I ended up getting a tactrix cable for this very reason. I reset the code, went for a couple drives and didn't come back and the car was also making boost fine and pulled the fuse then. On the 2007 WRX/STi it is easy enough to get to the one air pump location but on the 2006 one is a pain in the rear end. VVVVV: that's what I did. Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 01:10
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Hollis Brown posted:In my opinion it's easiest to wait until the air pump is closed (hopefully it does close, and isn't stuck open), pull the fuse, and tune it out. I ended up getting a tactrix cable for this very reason. I reset the code, went for a couple drives and didn't come back and the car was also making boost fine and pulled the fuse then. On the 2007 WRX/STi it is easy enough to get to the one air pump location but on the 2006 one is a pain in the rear end. Right now the code it's throwing is P2441 which the PO said means "Secondary air valve stuck closed." So I guess check one more time, pull the fuse and then clear it out?
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Dec 7, 2012 01:42
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Upgraded from my GC 2.5RS to a 2002 WRX with 77,500 miles. lovely cell phone pic with my dad's MS3. Just a few little problems, the up pipe is leaking, but no CEL and it passed inspection/emissions just fine. Does the OEM up pipe for 02-06 WRX all fit the '02?
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Dec 7, 2012 03:03
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Neptr posted:Just a few little problems, the up pipe is leaking, but no CEL and it passed inspection/emissions just fine. Does the OEM up pipe for 02-06 WRX all fit the '02? Get a catless sti up pipe
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Dec 7, 2012 04:15
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Looks liek my hand is being forced and I have to get the WRX going again. gently caress, where am I going to find the time........?
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Dec 7, 2012 04:46
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Cat Terrist posted:Looks liek my hand is being forced and I have to get the WRX going again. gently caress, where am I going to find the time........? However will you go on? Goondolances 
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Dec 7, 2012 06:06
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Amandyke posted:However will you go on? Goondolances Buy wrecked Subaru No 9 and do the fastest swap in my life. Or stop with the plan for No 8 to be the next race car and swap that. You can not register a Spec C in Australia. But no one ever said you cant swap the hot bits into a ADM........ Oooooh I like this idea a lot.
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Dec 7, 2012 06:20
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Neptr posted:Upgraded from my GC 2.5RS to a 2002 WRX with 77,500 miles. lovely cell phone pic with my dad's MS3. Nice score! I have an 02 TS wagon in Sedona Red...it seems to be an unusual colour around here. Also, I initially thought that this picture of was your old car next to the new, until I remembered what a GC 2.5RS was (not some kind of Mazda with a hood scoop).
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Dec 7, 2012 08:40
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I have a 2 month old 2013 Subaru WRX with the basic head unit that I feel is probably the worst part of the car. Now, I'm probably not going to end up doing this, but could I upgrade to the 6.1-inch touch screen GPS unit through my dealership? I know, I know. If I can it's probably going to be expensive and there are way better aftermarket head units for far less. I'd just like to know if I can and the what the process for that is. Also, if anyone has the 6-inch screen, how is it? Again, more than likely not going this route.
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Dec 7, 2012 09:10
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Amandyke posted:Get a catless sti up pipe I'm not really looking for more power; I want to run in the stock class for auto-x which limits my modifications to a catback, struts, and one swaybar. Or is this more because of the precat coming lose and destroying the turbo that someone mentioned last page? Will I need to get a tune or delete a CEL if I go with the STi catless uppipe?
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Dec 7, 2012 16:58
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Cat Terrist posted:Buy wrecked Subaru No 9 and do the fastest swap in my life. I'm going to have to demand pictures of the inside of your house at this point. I'm wondering if there is any living space left.
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Dec 7, 2012 17:02
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Neptr posted:IOr is this more because of the precat coming lose and destroying the turbo that someone mentioned last page? That's why. It will cause a CEL but it can be fixed with a resistor or presumably with tuning software although I'm not 100% sure about the software angle.
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Dec 7, 2012 17:16
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Viggen posted:I'm going to have to demand pictures of the inside of your house at this point. I'm wondering if there is any living space left.
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Dec 7, 2012 17:31
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Seat Safety Switch posted:House? House? You don't get it, do you?! "This ones' the guest car.. that WRX is for entertaining family, and over here, the Baja ute? Thats the pool when it rains!"
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Dec 7, 2012 17:33
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AlexanderCarrillo posted:I have a 2 month old 2013 Subaru WRX with the basic head unit that I feel is probably the worst part of the car. Now, I'm probably not going to end up doing this, but could I upgrade to the 6.1-inch touch screen GPS unit through my dealership? I just went through the process of replacing my basic headunit with an aftermarket one and it actually improved the sound of the stock speakers a decent bit (I replaced them anyway.) No idea about replacing it with the nav version, but upgrading the headunit would have been well worth it even without doing anything else.
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Dec 7, 2012 17:34
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Try this quick fix in the mean time, it says premium but it worked on my 2011 base model stereo and improved the sound a lot: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38435221&postcount=37
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Dec 7, 2012 17:56
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That's really interesting. I'd wondered why everything sounded so much better with the new headunit and nothing else—didn't seem like it should have made much difference at all. Stupid stock EQ settings explain a lot.
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Dec 7, 2012 18:06
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I replaced the headunit in my 99 Ford Contour and found a huge difference there. I would wager that 90% of cars on the market could be noticeably improved by just replacing the headunit.
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Dec 7, 2012 18:28
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Roman Rambo posted:That's why. It will cause a CEL but it can be fixed with a resistor or presumably with tuning software although I'm not 100% sure about the software angle. Not strictly true, if you keep the sensor in the uppipe then you do not need the resistor mod. But yes it is purely a reliability mod as you no longer have a cat right before your turbo just biding its time to break loose and destroy the impeller.
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Dec 7, 2012 21:41
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The sensor in the catted up-pipe is an EGT that is only there to check and see if the cat is working. The later cars without a cat don't even have the sensor. The easiest way to get rid of the cel is to just stick a resistor in the connector and wrap it in tape. If you go with an aftermarket up-pipe that has the bung you are better off just plugging it. The cheapest replacement is just a stock catless up-pipe but sometimes they can be a hassle. The studs tend to get stuck and/or stripped plus heat shields usually come loose and rattle. An aftermarket up-pipe goes for anywhere from 150-300.
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Dec 7, 2012 23:58
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The one that I have is in excellent shape. And its for sale, pm if interested.
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Dec 8, 2012 00:19
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So my significant other's Crosstek Limited that she ordered back in October finally came into the dealership and I'm heading over there in a few minutes to pick it up with her. Since she placed the order though I did a little research into the invoice price for her car on Edmunds and discovered there's about a $1700 difference between invoice and MSRP, the True Market Value they have listed is ~$900 above Invoice ($26,117 for invoice, $27,077 for TMV, $27,860 for MSRP). My quick question is... how much negotiating power do you actually have when your car is already at the dealer lot? I told her she should have talked to the sales guy a month ago and told him what she was expecting to pay. Hoping she can save at least $500-$1000 but not sure how realistic it is for a car that is as in-demand as the Crosstek. Does anyone have any advice for new-car shopping? What should I tell her to ask for?
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Dec 8, 2012 00:53
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MMD3 posted:So my significant other's Crosstek Limited that she ordered back in October finally came into the dealership and I'm heading over there in a few minutes to pick it up with her. Unless you have already signed the financing paperwork then there is nothing forcing you to pay for the car other than the refundable deposit you put down. By all means play hard ball on the price. You could have a wrx for that price...
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Dec 8, 2012 01:29
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I've been doing some research into a boost gauge, but there's so much out there it's hard to narrow down. Any suggestions? I'm tempted to do an electronic one over a mechanical one since I'd eventually like to design an LCD interface and I could reuse the sensor. I know these exist too, but what I can buy for $200-300 I can build for nearly free with parts I already have.
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Dec 8, 2012 01:45
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I've got a Defi gauge, it matches the red color of the dashboard identically.
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Dec 8, 2012 01:52
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I've always liked Pro-Comp and Stack but those are pricey.
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Dec 8, 2012 02:14
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The Pro-sport knockoff Defi gauges are surprisingly nice. How much Extra S should I buy to do a 99 OBS 5 speed? I also should probably do the diffs, what goes in them?
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Dec 8, 2012 05:17
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5-speeds take 3.5 qts, rear diff 0.8 qt. I wouldn't bother with the rear diff. I probably also wouldn't spring for Extra-S, I put in Redline 75W90NS. On the VLSD rear end the oil doesn't touch the diff parts anyway and is only used for a viscous transfer medium. I would imagine the open is similarly sealed.
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Dec 8, 2012 05:22
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Cat Terrist posted:Buy wrecked Subaru No 9 and do the fastest swap in my life. Theres always a cheap GC8 or two with a little damage every week at the auctions down here, I'm sure that you guys get even more up there (albeit probably a bit more wog spec).
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Dec 8, 2012 06:54
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Boost gauges are fairly far down the list for gauges for me. I like coolant temp and oil pressure before that. If you have changed a bunch of parts and have an aftermarket turbo and boost controller it's a good idea though.
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Dec 8, 2012 07:19
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kaws! posted:Theres always a cheap GC8 or two with a little damage every week at the auctions down here, I'm sure that you guys get even more up there (albeit probably a bit more wog spec). Don't tell me this means what I think it means...
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Dec 8, 2012 08:45
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Captain McAllister posted:Don't tell me this means what I think it means... 22 inch chromies, fart cannon, lowered till it cant get over a pebble, horrid body kit and purple with a huge Croydon Autosports sticker on the back window and a red canary on the front?
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Dec 8, 2012 10:58
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Cat Terrist posted:22 inch chromies, fart cannon, lowered till it cant get over a pebble, horrid body kit and purple with a huge Croydon Autosports sticker on the back window and a red canary on the front? I sent you a PM, my wreck should be a good source of parts. (I might even be willing to buy some off you if I have any money spare from my payout.)  Picked up my new car today. Somewhat similar to what I had before but it needs more work on chassis bracing/slightly hardening the suspension.
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Dec 8, 2012 12:23
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So my Legacy GT has acting weird, every once in a while when coming to a stop (and usually in 1st gear) the car feels slightly like it wants to stall but then it goes back to 900 rpm and stays there, is very odd because it doesn't happen always. No CELL so far, car feels as strong as ever, I *Think* I feel the car vibrate when accelerating at 2,000 rpms, it could be in my head tho. Also happens sometimes when cold on first start, if I let it warm when shifting to D it does the same thing, RPM's go to the 300's the car shakes a bit and the goes to 900 for a smooth idle the rest of the way. Is funny because my B4 did almost the same thing but a bit more jarring, my friend with a stock Spec C said he had the same problem and so is his USDM 2002 bug eye, bone stock. So this a Subaru thing or is there anything I can do to fix it? online search said a mountain of crap from driveshafts to blown engines. Any ideas? mulligan fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Dec 8, 2012 |
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Dec 8, 2012 13:10
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Hillridge posted:I've been doing some research into a boost gauge, but there's so much out there it's hard to narrow down. Have you looked at the vent boost gauge? I installed one in my spec.b and it looks factory. very nice product. http://gaugetek.wix.com/vbg1
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Dec 8, 2012 14:16
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