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Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


How best to control the brightness of Christmas lights (the incandescent sort)? I have this sneaking suspicion that pwm wouldn't work as well because they're not sufficiently responsive, but then maybe it'd work fine because they'd naturally smooth the pwm wave, so everything would work fine, but then again maybe that'd be hard on the bulbs and cause them to burn out sooner and and and

I'd like to be able to control mine from a computer or arduino or what have you, and I'm just sorta brainstorming. On/off would be the most basic operation, but dimming would be cool.

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Delta-Wye
Sep 29, 2005

Bad Munki posted:

How best to control the brightness of Christmas lights (the incandescent sort)? I have this sneaking suspicion that pwm wouldn't work as well because they're not sufficiently responsive, but then maybe it'd work fine because they'd naturally smooth the pwm wave, so everything would work fine, but then again maybe that'd be hard on the bulbs and cause them to burn out sooner and and and

I'd like to be able to control mine from a computer or arduino or what have you, and I'm just sorta brainstorming. On/off would be the most basic operation, but dimming would be cool.

Triacs? http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php?topic=6970.0

Remember, one hand in your pocket! :v:

sixide
Oct 25, 2004
Incandescent? Use a dimmer.

Oh, computer control. Use a dimmer with a stepper motor.

VictualSquid
Feb 29, 2012

Gently enveloping the target with indiscriminate love.

Bad Munki posted:

How best to control the brightness of Christmas lights (the incandescent sort)? I have this sneaking suspicion that pwm wouldn't work as well because they're not sufficiently responsive, but then maybe it'd work fine because they'd naturally smooth the pwm wave, so everything would work fine, but then again maybe that'd be hard on the bulbs and cause them to burn out sooner and and and

I'd like to be able to control mine from a computer or arduino or what have you, and I'm just sorta brainstorming. On/off would be the most basic operation, but dimming would be cool.
If it is an incandescent bulb those are easy to dim.
You can use a pure Voltage regulator.
You can use PWM directly.
Or if you need more power you can use a Triac.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


sixide posted:

Oh, computer control. Use a dimmer with a stepper motor.

Ahaha, perfect.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Is there an IC with X number of resistors that I can use for a 7 segment display or do I just need to put in 7 discrete resistors?

Something like a DIP-14 would be great, 7 resistors.

Base Emitter
Apr 1, 2012

?

Martytoof posted:

Is there an IC with X number of resistors that I can use for a 7 segment display or do I just need to put in 7 discrete resistors?

Something like a DIP-14 would be great, 7 resistors.

Yes, you can get resistor arrays in a variety of configurations, including 7 in a 14-pin DIP.

There's also display driver chips with current source drivers where you can set segment current with a single resistor.

For example, at Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...16=6510&stock=1

Base Emitter fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Dec 9, 2012

PDP-1
Oct 12, 2004

It's a beautiful day in the neighborhood.

Martytoof posted:

Is there an IC with X number of resistors that I can use for a 7 segment display or do I just need to put in 7 discrete resistors?

Something like a DIP-14 would be great, 7 resistors.

You can also get SIP packaged resistors with a common lead, like this:




which might save you some space vs. the DIP package, since 7 quarter-Watt resistors are going to take up exactly the same board area as a DIP-14 (unless you're doing surface mount in which case nevermind!)

HATE TROLL TIM
Dec 14, 2006
Hey guys, what's a good multimeter with PC interface capabilities for under $150? Some people seem to love the $60 UNI-T UT61E but I'm also looking at Mastech M9803R and VICHY VC8145 bench top units. Any recommendations on these or anything I may have missed?

sixide
Oct 25, 2004
That Mastech looks like junk. There's no good reason to get a 2-wire only 3.5 digit benchtop meter.

The Vichy has a pretty good feature set, but I can't speak to the quality/usability.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

PDP-1 posted:

You can also get SIP packaged resistors with a common lead, like this:




which might save you some space vs. the DIP package, since 7 quarter-Watt resistors are going to take up exactly the same board area as a DIP-14 (unless you're doing surface mount in which case nevermind!)

My eee-lectronics knowledge is still maturing so I'm not sure how I'd use a common lead with a 7 segment display but I'm glad to learn these exist anyhow :3:

HATE TROLL TIM
Dec 14, 2006

sixide posted:

That Mastech looks like junk. There's no good reason to get a 2-wire only 3.5 digit benchtop meter.

The Vichy has a pretty good feature set, but I can't speak to the quality/usability.

Yeah, scratch that one, I thought it was a $70 one I was looking at. For $130 it's not even close to worth it. (It's literally a handheld unit glued inside of a case.

The Vichy seems to be a real bench top meter, at least. It looks like I can get one of those from one of my eCig suppliers in China for $140 (they'll throw one on a large order for me).

I was wondering if anyone had recommendations other than these. I'm okay with a handheld meter as well. I want to get back into electronics and I need to pick something up with accurate resistance results for making these eCig coils. Data logging is a must as well, so I can run tests on batteries and eCig devices.

Originally I was going to pickup a UT81B scope+multimeter, but I decided I'll just grab a DSO203 later on for scope duties.

Edit: Oh, also the TekPower DT9602R is on the table as well. Looks decent and Amazon has it for $60 with Prime shipping.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
It makes me mad when the doofuses at my work treat the Fluke meters & leads like poo poo because they're great and also expensive :mad:

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

Sorry if this has already been asked, but how about inexpensive oscilloscopes? I'm just setting up a bench for my hobby projects, but all the good oscilloscopes seem to be hundreds of dollars. I found a few tiny hand-held ones on the cheaps, and a few that interface with a computer instead of having a screen which I might be able to work, but what about quality? Is there a huge difference between cheap oscilloscopes and expensive ones? Do you think I would be able to do the fairly basic stuff I need to do with a cheap (sub-$150) one? I just want to look at waveforms to see how my circuits are doing and to see what other circuits are doing for hacking stuff apart.

For context, my specific first project I'm targeting is to build a Geiger counter, as it's not terribly complicated and it's cool enough to keep me interested, but I want to make sure the pulses aren't awful and noisy so I can read them with a microcontroller and I can't really think of a way to do that without a scope. Also I'd like to do some sound-based projects in the future. My dad is an electrical engineer and I grew up around this stuff and did it a bit for fun as a kid so I remember a lot of basic things about parts and how they go together, can tell my resistors from my capacitors and such, but I never really built anything terribly advanced on my own.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
Might be worth keeping an eye on eBay, there are some great deals on oscilloscopes on there sometimes. Just be careful of shady sellers etc etc.

Those pc interface ones just look pretty limited and it is nice having a discrete piece of test equipment not tethered to a pc.

Arcsech
Aug 5, 2008

priznat posted:

It makes me mad when the doofuses at my work treat the Fluke meters & leads like poo poo because they're great and also expensive :mad:

Don't worry, they're made so you can treat them like poo poo and they'll keep working just as perfectly. It does piss me off when people gently caress up the probes though, those aren't quite as tough.

Unless you're talking about the bench meters, those are still durable but aren't built for nearly the same pounding and are even more expensive.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
Oh yeah, they're very tough but it's just dumb, avoidable stupid poo poo that people do like just chuck em onto a bench or drop the probes on the floor.

Still not as bad as how the soldering station gets treated though :(

peepsalot
Apr 24, 2007

        PEEP THIS...
           BITCH!

Parallel Paraplegic posted:

Sorry if this has already been asked, but how about inexpensive oscilloscopes? I'm just setting up a bench for my hobby projects, but all the good oscilloscopes seem to be hundreds of dollars. I found a few tiny hand-held ones on the cheaps, and a few that interface with a computer instead of having a screen which I might be able to work, but what about quality? Is there a huge difference between cheap oscilloscopes and expensive ones? Do you think I would be able to do the fairly basic stuff I need to do with a cheap (sub-$150) one? I just want to look at waveforms to see how my circuits are doing and to see what other circuits are doing for hacking stuff apart.

For context, my specific first project I'm targeting is to build a Geiger counter, as it's not terribly complicated and it's cool enough to keep me interested, but I want to make sure the pulses aren't awful and noisy so I can read them with a microcontroller and I can't really think of a way to do that without a scope. Also I'd like to do some sound-based projects in the future. My dad is an electrical engineer and I grew up around this stuff and did it a bit for fun as a kid so I remember a lot of basic things about parts and how they go together, can tell my resistors from my capacitors and such, but I never really built anything terribly advanced on my own.
i have the dso quad aka dso 203 which works alright. The user interface is atrocious though.

I also got one of these logic sniffers recently which helped me reverse engineer some spi stuff. http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/preorder-open-workbench-logic-sniffer-p-612.html?cPath=75 There are a few different clients for it, some of which are pretty nice. Only downside is pretty low memory for storing samples.

HATE TROLL TIM
Dec 14, 2006
Are you running the custom DSO Quad firmwares? I hear they help tremendously!

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
I had a nice Tek TDS-420A but something in it failed and the readings are all wrong and the POST reports acquisition board failure. The only fallback scopes I've got access to are all 30 year old Teks that are in horrible shape. If I throw the probes into ground coupling mode the reference waveform is seriously curved. I'm actually holding onto the nice Tek scope in case I decide to get it fixed one day. It's probably more scope than I'll ever actually need.

It's really hard to go back to something basic after you've been spoiled though :(


Peeps, how do you like the logic sniffer? I sort of want to get my hands on that one you picked up.

some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Dec 9, 2012

HATE TROLL TIM
Dec 14, 2006
I think I'll grab the TekPower DT9602R for now. It's only $30 on Amazon and has an RS-232 interface on it. Turns out it uses the same protocol as a Voltcraft 820, which is good for me because I can use a nice little Mac app called VC 840 Recorder to plot all the data right to a TSV file. (It also works with QtDMM, so if I compile the latest version of that for OS X I'd really be set.)

Might grab that Vichy on my next order from China.

Sweevo
Nov 8, 2007

i sometimes throw cables away

i mean straight into the bin without spending 10+ years in the box of might-come-in-handy-someday first

im a fucking monster

Parallel Paraplegic posted:

Sorry if this has already been asked, but how about inexpensive oscilloscopes? I'm just setting up a bench for my hobby projects, but all the good oscilloscopes seem to be hundreds of dollars. I found a few tiny hand-held ones on the cheaps, and a few that interface with a computer instead of having a screen which I might be able to work, but what about quality? Is there a huge difference between cheap oscilloscopes and expensive ones? Do you think I would be able to do the fairly basic stuff I need to do with a cheap (sub-$150) one? I just want to look at waveforms to see how my circuits are doing and to see what other circuits are doing for hacking stuff apart.

For context, my specific first project I'm targeting is to build a Geiger counter, as it's not terribly complicated and it's cool enough to keep me interested, but I want to make sure the pulses aren't awful and noisy so I can read them with a microcontroller and I can't really think of a way to do that without a scope. Also I'd like to do some sound-based projects in the future. My dad is an electrical engineer and I grew up around this stuff and did it a bit for fun as a kid so I remember a lot of basic things about parts and how they go together, can tell my resistors from my capacitors and such, but I never really built anything terribly advanced on my own.

If you look at all those ebay mini scopes you'll see that they're built into old phone/mp3 player cases. This tells you everything you need to know about the quality.

Pretty thorough review of a typical one here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3im97Z7ceNI

PDP-1
Oct 12, 2004

It's a beautiful day in the neighborhood.

Martytoof posted:

My eee-lectronics knowledge is still maturing so I'm not sure how I'd use a common lead with a 7 segment display but I'm glad to learn these exist anyhow :3:

Oh yeah, your display probably already has a common lead so that resistor package won't do much for ya. Unless of course you only ever want to turn every segment on or off in unison in which case it's absolutely perfect.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
I think the last time I got on a scope-shopping kick, I was looking at Tek 2213s on eBay? I don't want to drop more than a hundred until I can spend $1k or so on a quality one that will last me a long time.

I wouldn't even rate one of those little mp3 player scopes for anything serious. Those little LCD displays are not known for their response time.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
The 2213 is actually one of the misaligned scopes that I have. I wonder if there's any way to adjust the plot. It seriously curves almost 1/2 a div over the range of the scope when it's ground coupled.

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

So I'll probably need to save up for something actually good or it's a crapshoot I take it (though I will look into that DSO-203 and the logic analyzer, thanks peepsalot!) Oh well, maybe I can borrow one of my dad's ancient analog CRT scopes while I'm waiting, at least I can pretend I'm a 1950's mad scientist :science:

movax
Aug 30, 2008

I've heard good things about some Rigol scopes; I definitely wouldn't recommend any of those pico/tiny scopes though; IMHO, they are more toys than actual tools.

Personally I got a LT344L from LeCroy under some lucky circumstances, so I am pretty solid for awhile. It's not very portable though; my dream scope would be one of Tektronix's MDOs like a MDO4104-3. 1GHz analog scope + 16 channel logic analyzer + 50kHz-3GHz spectrum analyzer for "only" $25,000.

I've been skewed shopping for scopes recently as I've been trying to quote a new serial analyzer for work / PCIe 3.0 stuff, and they start at around $250k. :(

So uh I guess for Hobby stuff, Rigol is pretty good and not crazy expensive. A good oscilloscope is a great investment.

Krenzo
Nov 10, 2004
I bought this USB scope back when I was getting started. It's $250, but they offered a discount for students when I bought it which made it $200. I still find it quite handy as it's an oscilloscope and logic analyzer. Your best bet would probably be to save up and get one of the Rigol scopes for around $400.

sixide
Oct 25, 2004
Rigol is on par with any of the big-name "economy" scopes. Difference is the Rigol costs 25% as much or less.

Slanderer
May 6, 2007

sixide posted:

Rigol is on par with any of the big-name "economy" scopes. Difference is the Rigol costs 25% as much or less.

Rigol seems to use all name-brand components, and are competently designed. Doesn't one of the major scope companies sell rebranded Rigol scopes as their economy models?

sixide
Oct 25, 2004

Slanderer posted:

Rigol seems to use all name-brand components, and are competently designed. Doesn't one of the major scope companies sell rebranded Rigol scopes as their economy models?

Agilent does, see the 1000 series. Even the part numbers are identical.

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

Cool, I'll look into Rigol then. I talked to my dad today, and he said that while he did have an old spare analog scope I could have, it was in pieces as he was replacing the control systems since they were "noisy, worn and getting a bit oxidized with age". He has the new parts, just hasn't gotten around to putting them in yet, so I guess that's out at least for now. Anyway, thanks for your help guys.

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~

Slanderer posted:

Rigol seems to use all name-brand components, and are competently designed. Doesn't one of the major scope companies sell rebranded Rigol scopes as their economy models?

I'm pretty sure I told this story before, but a while back an engineer from Rigol came to our school trying to sell us their scopes, and he stated in no uncertain terms that all of their scopes are direct ripoffs of Agilent models. Many employees, including himself, were headhunted by Rigol from Agilent. And to prove this he wore his old Agilent employee badge and shirt while he was doing his pitch to customers.

For Rigol, ripping off Agilent is a point of pride. And the thing is the quality of the components and craftsmanship is largely the same. So there's really no reason to buy an Agilent scope if you can find a Rigol equivalent, if you want to save money.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

I always found the UI on the lower-end Agilent scopes to be really atrocious and counter-intuitive compared to what Tek offered. I think they've gotten better recently, but I really loathed having to use the Agilent scopes that were in one of the labs. Would have rather just had classic TDS3034 or similar.

Interesting story about that engineer though, I didn't know that was the case.

Bruinator
Jul 6, 2005
I considered Rigol when shopping for my hobby scope but was a little wary since I'd never seen or used one one in person. They do indeed look very similar to Agilent and I think for the money in the 50MHz-100MHz range are probably the way to go. According to that EEV blog guy the 2 channel 50MHz version can be unlocked via firmware to go to 100MHz, so that's nice.

I ended up with a factory refurb Agilent DSO1024A. The user interface is exactly the same as the 6000 and 7000 series I've used so it is very familiar. I can't compare it to the really high end models

Agilent sells their refurbs directly from their Malaysian factory over ebay. The seller name is "agilentused". My scope came in an Agilent box with Agilent paperwork/bill of sale and has the same service contract and cal options as any new scope. It was under 50% of MSRP, looked brand new in every way, and came with a full set of 4 new 300MHz probes. Many of the engineers I know including the contract guys buy their personal and business stuff through this channel.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

Bruinator posted:

According to that EEV blog guy the 2 channel 50MHz version can be unlocked via firmware to go to 100MHz, so that's nice.

I think one of the later firmwares disabled that so if you get one now you'll have to downgrade the FW.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


This doesn't seem quite right to me.

I googled up a water detection circuit/arduino thingie, built it, and stuck the probe in the reservoir under my Christmas tree. It works, but after a while it seems to go wonky. What's wrong with this?



I feel like that resistor is in the wrong place, and maybe the or the probe/sensor is "backwards"...that is, I'm thinking if +5V and GND were swapped in that drawing, it'd be more what I expect. Or maybe the resistor should be between the fork and the sensor pin, rather than between +5V and the fork?

peepsalot
Apr 24, 2007

        PEEP THIS...
           BITCH!

Bad Munki posted:

This doesn't seem quite right to me.

I googled up a water detection circuit/arduino thingie, built it, and stuck the probe in the reservoir under my Christmas tree. It works, but after a while it seems to go wonky. What's wrong with this?



I feel like that resistor is in the wrong place, and maybe the or the probe/sensor is "backwards"...that is, I'm thinking if +5V and GND were swapped in that drawing, it'd be more what I expect. Or maybe the resistor should be between the fork and the sensor pin, rather than between +5V and the fork?
It looks like that resistor is being used as a pullup. It keeps the pin high when the water switch is open. When there is water there to provide an easier path (Rwater << Rpullup), then it will pull the pin down to logic 0. What value of resistor do you have? Maybe you water needs more electrolytes. Its what plants crave.

e: Try measuring the ohms of the water without the rest of the circuit attached. longer and closer together probes in the water would also probably help.

peepsalot fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Dec 10, 2012

Delta-Wye
Sep 29, 2005
Get a float switch, shrub.

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Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
What value is that resistor?

In theory, it should work, IF you have a significantly lower resistance through the water than you do through the resistor.

Can you hook an ohmmeter up to your two wires going to the reservoir, and give us a ballpark resistance reading when it's full and then when it's empty (should be basically infinite on the latter)?

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