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Devian666 posted:Try setting it to 70 mW. That's the suggested limit so I'm not going to tell you anything other than that. I bumped it to 70 mW and didn't see any improvements running the speed tests.
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# ? Dec 3, 2012 19:45 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:46 |
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I currently have a roommate living at my house and we both have XBoxes we use on live pretty much all the time. The issue I'm having is I can't forward the required ports for LIVE on both XBoxes at the same time so one person always has either slow speeds or terrible matchmaking search performance. My ISP offers a second IP for free, which I heard can provide a solution for me. I currently use a Cisco DPC3825 as a modem and a wi-fi router, but I can change it over to a modem only and disable the router function if need be. What extra equipment and setup would I need to be able to be able to forward the same ports on both Xboxes.
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# ? Dec 3, 2012 20:09 |
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KingKapalone posted:I bumped it to 70 mW and didn't see any improvements running the speed tests. This is where it gets into the range of tinkering with settings. It's unusual that nothing appears to have helped. Adjusting the RTS and DTIM interval settings might help. In the case of RTS a minor increase is more likely to help. Also try decreasing the transmit power in increments going as low as 30 mW. DariusLikewise posted:My ISP offers a second IP for free, which I heard can provide a solution for me. I currently use a Cisco DPC3825 as a modem and a wi-fi router, but I can change it over to a modem only and disable the router function if need be. What extra equipment and setup would I need to be able to be able to forward the same ports on both Xboxes. An off the shelf router is only going to cope with one IP address at a time especially when you want individual port forwarding. I'm assuming if you ISP provides a second IP that they would need to provide a second modem for this purpose. I would recommend talking to your ISP about how this would be implemented. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Dec 3, 2012 |
# ? Dec 3, 2012 21:44 |
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SamDabbers posted:If you mean the RT-N16 listed in the OP, then yeah, those two should work well together. Thanks, the only problem I see is I need 6 Ethernet ports.. Is there a cheap switch I can pickup that will work?
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# ? Dec 3, 2012 21:59 |
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fyallm posted:Thanks, the only problem I see is I need 6 Ethernet ports.. Is there a cheap switch I can pickup that will work? Pretty much any cheap switch will do the job. There's very little difference between manufacturers until you get into business class switches.
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# ? Dec 3, 2012 22:13 |
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Devian666 posted:An off the shelf router is only going to cope with one IP address at a time especially when you want individual port forwarding. I'm assuming if you ISP provides a second IP that they would need to provide a second modem for this purpose. I would recommend talking to your ISP about how this would be implemented. In the 90s my cable modem would provision at least two public ips. All I had to do was plug the cable modem into a hub, and then my two computers into the hub. Each computer got a public ip. There is no technical reason two ips would need two cable modems.
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# ? Dec 3, 2012 22:37 |
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Erned posted:I'm looking for a wireless router that will give me absolutely uninterrupted service on wired ethernet. Money is no object, I just need something with extremely reliable ethernet because if it stops working even once the results could be catastrophic. A few thousand later, you should be set with a high-availability failover system with redundant gear and hot spares so that you can avoid this catastrophic networking situation. I'm curious, what are you doing that requires such a high level of reliability?
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# ? Dec 3, 2012 23:02 |
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Devian666 posted:An off the shelf router is only going to cope with one IP address at a time especially when you want individual port forwarding. I'm assuming if you ISP provides a second IP that they would need to provide a second modem for this purpose. I would recommend talking to your ISP about how this would be implemented. Asked around at work today(helpful that I work at the ISP go figure) and they can push firmware to the modem that puts it in a bridge mode that will allow it to work as a switch... I just need to get a couple of routers to hook up.
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# ? Dec 3, 2012 23:53 |
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CuddleChunks posted:I'm curious, what are you doing that requires such a high level of reliability? I guessing bitcoin farming. If the network drops out then there isn't enough heat exhausted to dry the strawberries.
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 00:53 |
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I want an Airport Extreme, but I'll need to hook up two ethernet switches to accomodate my wired connections (one on each floor, with a long ethernet cable running from the router to the basement in my current setup). Any reason why this wouldn't work? It's frustrating because three wired ports on the Airport itself is just one shy of what I'd need.
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 03:05 |
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Minidust posted:I want an Airport Extreme, but I'll need to hook up two ethernet switches to accomodate my wired connections (one on each floor, with a long ethernet cable running from the router to the basement in my current setup). Any reason why this wouldn't work?
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 03:11 |
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Devian666 posted:This is where it gets into the range of tinkering with settings. It's unusual that nothing appears to have helped. Adjusting the RTS and DTIM interval settings might help. In the case of RTS a minor increase is more likely to help. The RTS Threshold is already at 2347 of the range 0-2347, so I can't increase that. What should I change DTIM too? That's at 2 of the range 1-255.
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 07:22 |
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You need to try small decreases of RTS. Even if you could go larger it would likely make things worse. Again with DTIM just try small increases.
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 08:30 |
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I've got a DTIM of 1, try that? Edit: Beacon 100ms, RTS 2347.
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 08:38 |
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DariusLikewise posted:I currently have a roommate living at my house and we both have XBoxes we use on live pretty much all the time. The issue I'm having is I can't forward the required ports for LIVE on both XBoxes at the same time so one person always has either slow speeds or terrible matchmaking search performance. If you have a decent router: remove the Xboxs static IPs, enable UPNP and you're done. 2 Xboxs online with open NATs . The second Xbox will request an alternate port if the standard 3074 port is in use. Unfortunately manually forwarding the port does not work, the second Xbox won't listen on the second port unless it requests the port itself through UPNP. Ronald Duck fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Dec 4, 2012 |
# ? Dec 4, 2012 21:31 |
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Am I an idiot for doing this? I'm going to be using a Ceton InfiniTV QuadTuner and using xboxes as set top boxes for TV. I'm also wanting to have all of my rooms wired and extend my wireless range (which is pretty lovely right now.) I'm planning on running Cat6 to all of the rooms that I would like to be wired. I have 2 Linksys E3000 running DDWRT for router/wirelessAP. I would be going Cable Modem > E3000 > 24 port switch > rooms. One port from the E3000 will be going directly to the other E3000 for wireless AP duties. I have everything that I need I believe. Work gave me a Linksys SGE2000 24port gigabit switch. I've got 1000ft of Cat6. I'm getting a 24port patch panel, a small open rack, 6 wall plates, 24 keystones and a punch down tool. I'm also getting a bunch of RJ-45 tips to make small cables for the patch to switch run. Going to label them all very well too.
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 22:47 |
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Four ports each room seems a bit excessive. Just do 2 cat6 port each room (maybe a coax port too) and add a switch to one of the port later if you need more ports in the room.
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# ? Dec 4, 2012 23:25 |
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Devian666 posted:You need to try small decreases of RTS. Even if you could go larger it would likely make things worse. Again with DTIM just try small increases. Oh you said small increases for RTS in the post above. I'll try when I'm around the router next.
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# ? Dec 5, 2012 01:05 |
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LTBS posted:I'm also getting a bunch of RJ-45 tips to make small cables for the patch to switch run. Going to label them all very well too. Just buy the patch cables from monoprice. It'll be more hassle than it's worth to create 10+ short patch cables. Remember, you don't have to have every port hot all at once. Labelmakers own. I labeled all of my ports as well, just do something simple like P1-1/2 on the top of a 4 port plate, and P1-3/4 on the bottom so it's obvious. DaNzA posted:Four ports each room seems a bit excessive. Not if they're on opposite walls to account for furniture rearrangement, an iptv set top box, etc. 4 ports behind an entertainment center seems about right, since everything entertainment is going networked. My next receiver will be network-capable, and my tv already is. Add in an apple tv/boxee box and an xbox and you have the four ports easy. Dropping in a switch off of a wallplate to handle a room is a piss-poor excuse for not doing proper planning of a wiring job to handle current and potential future needs. Do it right, or don't do it at all imo.
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# ? Dec 5, 2012 14:21 |
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devmd01 posted:
This is exactly why I'm doing it with 4 ports per room. I was just going to do 1 port with a switch behind it and thought "I'm running cable already, just do it right." I'll be running all of my TV through the XBOXes and have a network receiver that I haven't been able to take advantage of yet. Along with Apple TV and a few other things that I'd like to have networked. Thanks for the heads up about the patch cables. That makes a lot more sense.
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# ? Dec 5, 2012 17:41 |
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devmd01 posted:Do it right, or don't do it at all imo. So then why not run fiber? It's going to be a lot harder to pull fiber through the wall then it would be more Cat-N+1.
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# ? Dec 5, 2012 21:39 |
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devmd01 posted:Dropping in a switch off of a wallplate to handle a room is a piss-poor excuse for not doing proper planning of a wiring job to handle current and potential future needs. Do it right, or don't do it at all imo. A single cat6 can have a 1000Mbps throughput in one direction, two of them gives you 2000Mbps, which seem to be fairly future proof enough for most people unless you are really moving some serious data around. If you do need 4ports/4000Mbps into one room then it's probably not home networking anymore
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# ? Dec 5, 2012 21:51 |
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DaNzA posted:A single cat6 can have a 1000Mbps throughput in one direction, two of them gives you 2000Mbps, which seem to be fairly future proof enough for most people unless you are really moving some serious data around. It's not about throughput, though actually cat6 can be used for 10 gigabit ethernet. It's about having a nice, clean installation. A 5 port switch adds a rat's nest of cables behind your tv. The cost of the extra cable and jacks will be about the same as the cost of an extra switch later, so why not make it look good?
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# ? Dec 5, 2012 23:38 |
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I tend to agree with installing at least two network jacks in a room and more where there's a higher potential need. There are plenty of people I know that regret not installing network cable in their house. Next there'll be people regretting not having enough jacks. Do it now and you can patch them however you want in the future. Having one switch adjacent to the patch panel makes things a lot easier in the long run.
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# ? Dec 6, 2012 00:18 |
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lazydog posted:It's not about throughput, though actually cat6 can be used for 10 gigabit ethernet. Yeah I was gonna say that but 10GbE is only 30m on cat6, and in-wall wiring are usually quite long not to mention the fact that something like a 5 port 10GbE switch in a small size will be a while off. I guess either way would work fine and it's just a personal preference.
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# ? Dec 6, 2012 01:41 |
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Can someone explain the differences between the Asus RT-N66U in the OP and the RT-AC66U here? The price difference doesn't bother me, should I get the extra features of the newer model or instead get the older model that has a good history of reliability?
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# ? Dec 6, 2012 18:37 |
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saintonan posted:Can someone explain the differences between the Asus RT-N66U in the OP and the RT-AC66U here? The price difference doesn't bother me, should I get the extra features of the newer model or instead get the older model that has a good history of reliability? Given that almost nothing supports 802.11ac yet, I'd get the N version. As the standard sees more implementation, better models are bound to be released, potentially at lower price points and with additional or improved features.
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# ? Dec 6, 2012 18:42 |
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Also, the 802.11ac "standard" still isn't standardized, so there is always the chance that draft and final gear won't play nicely together. Some people that bought draft-n gear got burned because it didn't work with gear built to the final standard.
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# ? Dec 6, 2012 19:23 |
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Not sure if this is the correct place to ask this. I want to set up a network share in a small office with lan and preferably tunneled/encrypted wan access ala dropbox that includes incremental backup. We have about 10 users and a couple remote - lan is all windows machines on a workgroup - no domain controller. I guess I could set up a VPN and do manually do users/permissions on each individual machine but I was wondering if there is an easier/better way. I have not kept abreast of much IT stuff for a while - is there an easy/cheap/free roll your own dropbox type solution to this or perhaps NAS devices offer this type of functionality now?
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# ? Dec 7, 2012 16:18 |
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saintonan posted:Can someone explain the differences between the Asus RT-N66U in the OP and the RT-AC66U here? The price difference doesn't bother me, should I get the extra features of the newer model or instead get the older model that has a good history of reliability? What everyone else said, plus smallnetbuilder.com says the AC-66U is still going through growing pains, its firmware is getting updated pretty often at this juncture. It benchmarks just a hair or so below the N66U so I would wait until the firmware matures and get the N66U. Also, unless all your equipment has 3X3 MIMO antennae configs, it's not really worth it. For most home situations, unless you have a palatial estate, the RT-56U does a lot of what the 66 does for less. It has three (internal chip-based) antennas for the 5 GHz network and two for the 2.4 GHz network, a 500 MHz Ralink-based CPU and dedicated hardware for NAT. The only thing it wont do is DD-WRT but I find as long as you stick to the 1.0.1.8 firmware it's fast enough for the job.
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# ? Dec 9, 2012 05:09 |
I got a Asus RT-N16 that I want to use with a U-Verse 2wire router/modem/wifi combo device, since it didn't support gigabit ethernet or wireless n. I wasn't sure which DHCP server I should be using. Do I disable DHCP on the RT-N16 and just use it as more of a switch, with the 2wire handling DHCP? Or disable DHCP on the 2wire, enable it on the RT-N16, give the RT-N16 a static IP and DMZ it, and then have all my devices connect use the RT-N16, like the crappy 2wire one isn't even there anymore. Or am I completely off here and there is something else I should be doing?
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# ? Dec 9, 2012 22:01 |
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fletcher posted:I got a Asus RT-N16 that I want to use with a U-Verse 2wire router/modem/wifi combo device, since it didn't support gigabit ethernet or wireless n. I wasn't sure which DHCP server I should be using. Do I disable DHCP on the RT-N16 and just use it as more of a switch, with the 2wire handling DHCP? Or disable DHCP on the 2wire, enable it on the RT-N16, give the RT-N16 a static IP and DMZ it, and then have all my devices connect use the RT-N16, like the crappy 2wire one isn't even there anymore. Or am I completely off here and there is something else I should be doing? Turn off wireless on the 2wire gateway, static reservation for the wan interface of the RT-N16, and DMZ+ it - all of your devices connect behind the RT-N16, be it wired or wireless. I do exactly this but with a pfsense VM and it works like a charm with port forwarding, etc. Your set top boxes will remain plugged in to the ethernet ports of the 2wire gateway for TV purposes. devmd01 fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Dec 9, 2012 |
# ? Dec 9, 2012 22:51 |
Thanks for the info! That is a sweeet lookin' setup you got there.
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# ? Dec 10, 2012 00:16 |
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Anyone used MoCA adapters? My office is in my basement, and I've got stuff on the main floor/second floor of the house that needs sweet sweet internets, and I'm not sure whats up with my house, but it doesn't seem terribly good at allowing wireless signals to actually go anywhere. In a perfect world I would just run Cat6 around the house and go from there, but I don't think that's actually going to be possible in the short term. I've been debating between MoCA and powerline, and overall MoCA just looks like a much better/stable solution in the grand scheme of things. House has comcast internet/tv service, but it looks like all the MoCA stuff should happily coexist on the same coax wiring. In particular the ones I'm looking at the Actiontec adapters that Tivo/Amazon sell. Come wire my house plz.
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# ? Dec 10, 2012 22:12 |
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I'm curious about MoCA as well. My house has, at minimum, dual RG6 to every bedroom (mid-90s...you should see all the cat3 runs...) and no easy way to run cat6 up to the second floor from my basement tech closet.
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# ? Dec 10, 2012 22:30 |
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I've heard only good things about MoCA. Modern powerline is supposed to be better than the older gear, though I'd go MoCA if I had the choice.
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# ? Dec 10, 2012 23:13 |
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Maneki Neko posted:Come wire my house plz. $100/hr plus T&E. It's the first thing I did when I bought the house, single story ranch helped make that quite a bit easier.
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# ? Dec 11, 2012 00:09 |
You guys and your fancy wiring. I've had a ethernet cable strung up like a tightrope across the main room of my apartment for the past couple weeks. I couldn't run it along the ground since the dog kept tripping over it. I finally replaced it with a longer cable to run along the walls, but I got so used to ducking under it that it was quite unnerving walking across the room for the first day after that. Good thing I don't have a girlfriend or wife to yell at me about unsightly network cables
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# ? Dec 11, 2012 01:04 |
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I just moved to a new place and my desktop is now in an office away from the router (Netgear 3700), so I need to pick up a wireless card. Searching newegg I see a lot of "dual-band" labels. Does this mean there are cards that can connect to both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands simultaneously, effectively doubling my wireless throughput?
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# ? Dec 11, 2012 22:00 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:46 |
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Is this normal? I have Comcast and as usual, have to reboot my cable modem every half hour. It's crazy this poo poo is allowed, I had FiOS for a year and I had to reboot my modem once, this has gone down 5 or 6 times in the few weeks I've had it.
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# ? Dec 11, 2012 22:44 |