|
You should seriously consider triangulating those legs or at the very least making a cross member, any sideways force and those screws are going to pull right out.
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 04:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 19:45 |
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:Slowly working my way through building the woodgears apple grinder to replace my crappy whizbang grinder. How well do these work?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 04:29
|
|
|
MonkeyNutZ posted:You should seriously consider triangulating those legs or at the very least making a cross member, any sideways force and those screws are going to pull right out. Seconding that. The last thing you want is your pregnant wife taking a spill because the step collapsed, and the way it's built now has basically no resistance to racking.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 04:37
|
|
|
Thirded; it looks dangerous. Any lateral force will collapse it Giving the legs some camber and then adding a stretcher woud be the traditional approach (having through tenons would help too). The quick and dirty approach would be adding gussets/braces
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 06:18
|
|
|
Starker44 posted:Well you veterans already know that it was too short. I really needed 1 1/2" length screws Actually you wanted 1.25" screws and you're going to kill your wife. Something like this  or this  needs to happen.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 06:35
|
|
|
What would you call that joint on the bottom stool? It isn't exactly a mitered half lap, and it isn't exactly a mitered tenon, either.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 06:56
|
|
|
I'm also just going to throw out a recommendation to use actual kreg screws with the kreg pocket hole system. If you know your screws you can pick an alternative, but if you use the wrong kind, you're very likely to split your workpiece through the pockets when any sort of force is applied. They're designed to use a certain head profile, and the pilot doesn't go all the way through so you need to use a self-tapping screw or risk said splitting.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 07:17
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:What would you call that joint on the bottom stool? It isn't exactly a mitered half lap, and it isn't exactly a mitered tenon, either. Half dovetail. The first time I saw it was on a Shaker bench. I've also seen them called lap dovetails, lap half dovetails, or dovetailed full laps. It's very strong. http://www.jkrantiques.com/shaker_antiques_furniture_39.html In this case I guess it would be a through, full lap, dovetail.  That stool was one of my first furniture projects about 10+ years ago, the intent was to practice hand cut dovetails and that joint was trickier than it looked (at that time), much trickier than regular dovetails. If you cut anything just a hair off, either the brace won't fit or there will be no support. I've been thinking of remaking the stool, maybe in cherry, because it should be easier now maybe. Edit, closeup 
wormil fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Dec 10, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 08:59
|
|
|
I've decided over the coarse of the winter I am going to work on lot on my hand joinery skills. Anyone have any dovetailing advice, or can recommend a good coping saw? I am going to try and cut a dovetail everyday before I start working in my shop. Wormil, do you make a lot of your own tools? How is the hammer working out?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 15:52
|
|
|
mds2 posted:I've decided over the coarse of the winter I am going to work on lot on my hand joinery skills. Anyone have any dovetailing advice, or can recommend a good coping saw? I am going to try and cut a dovetail everyday before I start working in my shop. For dovetails I think it depends on what your style is. I've watched videos by David Charlesworth who is super meticulous and takes forever to cut them and his polar opposite, Frank Klausz who doesn't measure anything and eyeballs all his angles. The Schwarz says that all new coping saws are garbage. I think he uses a Millers Falls #42.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 16:50
|
|
|
mds2 posted:How well do these work? How do you mean? The drum grinder? I'll find out when I get it finished. Matthias' results seem pretty good though: http://woodgears.ca/cider/apple_grinder.html Another gift idea I'm actually thinking about making: rechargable battery holder. Just a block of wood with holes drilled to store batteries. I can't think of a clever way to indicate which are charged yet but it would at least be better than having them roll around on the desk getting mixed up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 17:50
|
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:Another gift idea I'm actually thinking about making: rechargable battery holder. Just a block of wood with holes drilled to store batteries. I can't think of a clever way to indicate which are charged yet but it would at least be better than having them roll around on the desk getting mixed up. Stick them in with the positive end up for charged, negative up for needs to be charged?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 18:29
|
|
|
mds2 posted:I've decided over the coarse of the winter I am going to work on lot on my hand joinery skills. Anyone have any dovetailing advice, or can recommend a good coping saw? I am going to try and cut a dovetail everyday before I start working in my shop. I bought a big box store coping saw recently and it takes forEVER to cut anything. There was a guy on the first or second season of Tommy Mac's show that uses his chisels for dovetail layout then cuts them by eye, he was really fast. My only advice is don't use a coping saw for dovetails, buy a decent ripping back saw. I've made some tools, a dovetail layout, an angle square, a try square, a marking knife, a router table and the hammer handle. A few other things, like a router plane, a chisel plane, and a lathe are being planned. I haven't used the hammer yet but yesterday while looking for something else I found a piece of red oak that would have made a better handle. The handle I made is squarish but surprisingly comfortable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 23:18
|
|
|
I'm getting ready to equip my garage shop so I can get back into woodworking after decades of apartment dwelling. One of the things I've realized I need is a planer. How does this look? http://www.lowes.com/pd_221857-70-DW734_0__?productId=1061487&Ntt=planer&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dplaner&facetInfo= It's a DeWalt 734 -- 15 amp, 3 knives, 12 1/2". I'd also like a recommendation for a miter saw -- I'm thinking of compound tilting and so on, and given the nature of my shop (smallish, and needing of multitasking) I'd like something either breakdown-able, or something on a folding stand IF it's feasible. Effingham fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Dec 11, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 00:33
|
|
|
Has anyone used one of these for cutting dovetails? http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=171 Are there any other dovetail saw guides on the market?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 15:35
|
|
|
Effingham posted:I'm getting ready to equip my garage shop so I can get back into woodworking after decades of apartment dwelling. I have that planer and it works very well. Extremely loud though, I wont turn mine on without wearing ear protection. What is your price range on the miter saw?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 15:37
|
|
|
mds2 posted:Has anyone used one of these for cutting dovetails? It looks like something you'd outgrow pretty fast and if you really don't want to spend the money, could probably build one in the shop out of scraps.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 19:08
|
|
|
I need to build these shelves: But the material usage is horrendous:  Anything I can do to better utilize the materials? Like certain pieces I could break down further without sacrificing structural integrity? (On the layout, there are two long red pieces and two long cyan pieces, all other pieces are separated along the lines...the boundaries just don't show up at that resolution. I did leave a full 1/2" between each piece, though.) And if you notice, I didn't include the purple and orange fascia on the layout. I can't decide if I should make it out of solid wood (probably pine or something) or use the plywood again for that. I'd like it to look okay, but it doesn't need to be fancy. Would the plywood make for a stronger crosspiece there? If so, it's pretty easy to add on to the layout, I just hadn't decided yet. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Dec 11, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 21:48
|
|
|
I don't really see a way without changing dimensions. With all that extra plywood I would use it to make the faceframe but like you said, it won't be as attractive.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 22:31
|
|
|
How deep are your shelves?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 22:35
|
|
|
The ones on the right are about 17" deep (with the face) and the ones on the left about 7". Those depths are determined less by my hand and more by the space that they're going into. I want them to be flush across the front, so I can really only make them deeper, since making them shallower would make the ones on the left mostly useless for everything except a sweet paperback Danielle Steel collection. I'm not worried about them being super attractive. I want them to be strong, and I want them to be a few steps above a storage shelf in a garage, but they don't need to be living room bookshelf quality. I think using plywood on the face wood be fine as long as the plywood quality is okay and it's strong enough. I suspect doing so would be stronger than using, say, 1x2 pine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 22:49
|
|
|
I don't know about using less wood, but if it is for storage could you use some of that wood to make doors for the lower shelves so that you could store things out of sight?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 23:29
|
|
|
Might be cheaper to use those little shelves that everyone uses in IKEA hacker. At least for the smaller ones on the left.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2012 23:50
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Anything I can do to better utilize the materials? Like certain pieces I could break down further without sacrificing structural integrity? Where are you sourcing your material, and what kind of ply is it? Baltic Birch typically comes in 5'x5' sizes, and you'll find it tends to generate a lot less waste. Eyeballing it - you would probably get your blue pieces from two sheets with minimal waste, and your yellow/red/cyan pieces could all fit on one 4'x8' sheet. Otherwise, look at 16" shelves... and at least put your yellow pieces along the factory edge together. In terms of your edging, 1/2" (or 1/4", even) hardwood will give you a much more resilient edge than plywood or pine. If that doesn't matter - it's an aesthetic choice. If you don't want to see the ply-edge on the top or face of the shelves, you will have to do a mitre joint and you'll have a very fragile corner in the end.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 01:00
|
|
|
mds2 posted:I have that planer and it works very well. Extremely loud though, I wont turn mine on without wearing ear protection. I don't really have a price limit, per se. (I'm fortunate in that way.) I want to get something that is good, truly functional, and will last. Don't want to spend a TON, but I don't want something cheap, either. That said, I don't plan to drop a grand or so for a cabinet saw either, so I'm looking at good alternatives on that end. I'm looking for a more "realistic" alternative -- considering that I am really just a hobbyist and not a professional, but I do want something that will work. Also, buying used stuff is right out. Never done it, never will.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 01:24
|
|
|
Guitarchitect posted:Where are you sourcing your material, and what kind of ply is it? Baltic Birch typically comes in 5'x5' sizes, and you'll find it tends to generate a lot less waste. Eyeballing it - you would probably get your blue pieces from two sheets with minimal waste, and your yellow/red/cyan pieces could all fit on one 4'x8' sheet. Otherwise, look at 16" shelves... and at least put your yellow pieces along the factory edge together. quote:In terms of your edging, 1/2" (or 1/4", even) hardwood will give you a much more resilient edge than plywood or pine. If that doesn't matter - it's an aesthetic choice. If you don't want to see the ply-edge on the top or face of the shelves, you will have to do a mitre joint and you'll have a very fragile corner in the end. Effingham posted:I don't really have a price limit, per se. (I'm fortunate in that way.) I want to get something that is good, truly functional, and will last. Don't want to spend a TON, but I don't want something cheap, either. What I don't recommend--and maybe it's just me--is a 12" miter. While it may be nice to have the extra 1" cut width or whatever you'll have to maintain two sets of blades for any extracurriculars. For instance, I have a non-ferrous metal blade, it's a 10". Sometimes, I'll put it in my tablesaw for cutting off small bits of aluminum (with a sled, of course!)...if I had a 12" saw, I'd have to have a separate blade for that, as well. Just get a sliding arm if you think you'll need the extra depth. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Dec 12, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 01:25
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:From what I've been able to find thus far (Erie, PA) My options for suppliers are extremely limited: blue, or orange. There are a few other dealers here but they cater more towards rough construction (house framing and such.) Well, best thing you can do is check out the product at the box store, and/or check out what your lumber yards can order - they may cater to a certain trade/segment of the industry but that doesn't mean they can't order different product from their supplier. You could also phone cabinetmakers in town to see where they get their product (that's how I found my source), or look for a mill nearby as they will probably deal in plywood also.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 01:34
|
|
|
I did find a local mill here. Checked them out, looked at their stock, and it looked good, although limited in species (local hardwoods only: oak, maple, walnut) and at least compared to what I was used to, they were stupidly overpriced. Hadn't thought of looking for local cabinet makers, although I suspect that's a rare breed around here. Erie, PA is sort of...boring. Not a lot of infrastructure for people that do things at all out of the ordinary, at least not that I can find.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 01:38
|
|
|
Effingham posted:Also, buying used stuff is right out. Never done it, never will. Just out of curiosity - why? I have paid maybe 25% of what my tools would have cost retail, and many are far more flexible than newer tools because they are belt-driven. $100 for a 9" tablesaw with a cast iron top set into a fully wired saw station with a router table, for example... You just have to purchase intelligently, get tools that have good value rather than tools that have a really low price. Guys that are retiring from woodworking are great sources, as are the guys whose workshops begin and end at their tools. I got a 13" delta planer with 3 sets of unused knives from a guy who only ever ran maple through the thing (IE there's no pine pitch hidden inside) so that he could build furniture for his shop... It was $300 and included a rolling stand with cabinets+drawers... 5 years ago the planer alone was around $700, and it's $50/each for the blades. It doesn't matter to everyone (but because of my living situation it matters for me), but to be able to re-sell without taking a loss on anything is also really great 
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 01:46
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I need to build these shelves: Ok I've been looking at this and I'm getting frustrated because I know there are several easy solutions but they depend entirely on what you want in your final product. If this unit is being built like a piece of custom cabinetry/millwork for a specific location (and isn't intended to be used anywhere else) that will mean an entirely different construction than if it was a piece of "movable" furniture. If it's going to be an installed unit, you're kind of stuck with whatever space you have, though you do have the advantage of knowing that it's not going to move and can take cost/time saving shortcuts in places that would be otherwise visible/detrimental on a piece of furniture. If you can give a bit more detail on the space and use of this unit, I could definitely be of more help. As it is, I would recommend making the shelves/gables 16" deep (finished) with a 1/4" solid (hardwood) edge. If you are unable to see the sides of the unit, I would recommend just getting a piece of 1/2" ply and tacking it on. This would give the unit lots of stability (especially if you screw the shelves into the backing,) as well as give you an extra 1/2" in depth, if you need it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 02:49
|
|
|
Edit: Somehow I missed a half dozen posts.  If you made the larger shelves only 15-7/8" deep, you could squeeze three shelves out of a sheet. You could then move the red boards to the sheet with the cyan boards, and the yellow boards to any sheet. Any clear board on the edge of the shelf will stiffen it up considerably. The taller you can live with, the stronger it will be. I prefer oak for most of my utilitarian stuff, but that's probably because I have more than I know what to do with. VVVV: You can still keep it flush with the smaller shelf, you'll just have a little gap at the back. Put a 1x2 on the back if you don't like that, and it'll be even stronger. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Dec 12, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:19
|
|
|
If you look closely, you can see that the yellow shelves don't extend all the way to the back. That's because they're in front of a bit of wall contour. The other end of the shelves, on the far right, is in a corner of wall. So making the blue shelves shallower would mean the yellow shelves would be bordering on unusable due to being so shallow. Here's the sketchup file: http://gregshort.net/shelves.skp.zip If you look underneath the whole thing, there's a segmented line that snakes around a bit. That is the actual wall I am working against.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:29
|
|
|
One Legged Ninja posted:Somehow I missed a half dozen posts. That shouldn't be necessary. Most sheets are 48 1/2" wide. So you should be able to get three 16" wide boards out of a sheet with an 1/8" kerf. If the sheet isn't wide enough, you can make up for that by adding the solid edge to make up the difference anyway. Also with an solid edge on ply, biscuits are unnecessary, unless the edge is really thick. Just glue and clamp them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:38
|
|
|
Skinny Bins posted:That shouldn't be necessary. Most sheets are 48 1/2" wide. So you should be able to get three 16" wide boards out of a sheet with an 1/8" kerf. If the sheet isn't wide enough, you can make up for that by adding the solid edge to make up the difference anyway. quote:Also with an solid edge on ply, biscuits are unnecessary, unless the edge is really thick. Just glue and clamp them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:41
|
|
|
Is he going to have a drooping issue with those 5 foot long shelves? (eyeballing)
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:44
|
|
|
I hope not. With some facing across the front and being tacked to a sheet across the back, I think it'll hold up. I'm thinking just a screwing in through a 1/4" sheet of the cheapest poo poo I can find across the back will add a great deal of strength.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:45
|
|
|
^^^ You're right, of course. You'll be more limited by the fasteners you use than the material or thickness. Skinny Bins posted:That shouldn't be necessary. Most sheets are 48 1/2" wide. You really made me think for a minute. I've worked with plywood on a semi-regular basis for nearly 20 years , and I couldn't ever remember getting anything other than 48"x96", except for tongue and groove, so I looked it up at Lowes. Then I thought maybe it's just CDX that is exact, so I looked up sanded pine ply. Nope. It's actually listed 1/16" under. Then I looked up hardwood ply. 48"x96" also. It must be a regional thing. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Dec 12, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:55
|
|
|
Yeah, I'd believe it with tongue and groove, but only because you're "losing" that half inch out the middle of the other side, so any particular layer is still only 48x96.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 03:57
|
|
|
I think the only sheets I've seen larger than 48x96 are sheets of MDF (49x97)
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 04:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 19:45 |
|
|
Here's another question: on that rightmost side, it's up against a wall. What do I do with the face frame if the wall isn't perfectly straight/vertical?
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2012 04:15
|
|