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Bloody Cum Fart posted:I apologize of this has been asked. Basically I have no plumbing knowledge. My toilet keeps leaking at the base. I keep tightening the bolts which works temporarily. Is there a permanent fix for this that I can do myself? I'm assuming it has something to do with the seal. The bottom of the toilet and the top of the pipe are joined together with a ring of soft wax that usually gets compressed on both surfaces to make a water tight seal on both surfaces. If tightening down the bolts at the base solves it temporarily, then I'd wager the wax ring needs to be replaced. Replacing the wax ring isn't complicated but it can be time consuming. I took our guest bathroom toilet apart down to nuts and bolts last Christmas break to track down a leak. It was my first time fixing a toilet and I got stumped at one point reassembling it (stupid Universal gasket wasn't universal  ) but it's not tough to do.
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Dec 1, 2012 17:02
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| # ? May 13, 2024 09:30 |
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Bloody Cum Fart posted:I apologize of this has been asked. Basically I have no plumbing knowledge. My toilet keeps leaking at the base. I keep tightening the bolts which works temporarily. Is there a permanent fix for this that I can do myself? I'm assuming it has something to do with the seal. E: beaten!
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Dec 1, 2012 17:33
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Great. Thanks!
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Dec 1, 2012 17:40
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pseudonordic posted:Replacing the wax ring isn't complicated but it can be time consuming. Don't forget "messy", especially if it isn't that old.
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Dec 2, 2012 23:24
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If you separate the tank from the bowl you might as well replace the tank bolts, They are cheap and usually universal. (except kohler toilets). Replace the tank bolts and o rings with the flange for the tank itself. If you are that far into it do the float assembly. But it's also time over cost. You can get a new toilet for around $135 or so it's really up to you.
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Dec 4, 2012 06:27
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Can you guys recommend a point of use electric hot water heater? I don't need one that that is very beefy. My bathroom is on the opposite side of the house from the hot water heater, and it takes a couple of minutes before the hot water arrives. I have a recirculating pump on a timer already installed, and that does the trick for the time it is set for. My problem arises whenever I use the bathroom outside of the time that the recirculating pump has run.
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Dec 6, 2012 13:46
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I want to move my laundry from the kitchen (seriously, why? There was water run to the second floor, you could have put a laundry room up there) to the basement. Only problem, the sewer exits the house 4' above the basement floor. Can I expect my washing machine to pump high enough to enter a trap (and roughly how high would I need to put the trap) or should I buy a greywater pump?
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Dec 8, 2012 05:34
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emanonii posted:Can you guys recommend a point of use electric hot water heater? I don't need one that that is very beefy. My bathroom is on the opposite side of the house from the hot water heater, and it takes a couple of minutes before the hot water arrives. I have a recirculating pump on a timer already installed, and that does the trick for the time it is set for. My problem arises whenever I use the bathroom outside of the time that the recirculating pump has run. I hate point of use water heaters. But the cheapest route would be just programming the timer on your recirc? thelightguy posted:I want to move my laundry from the kitchen (seriously, why? There was water run to the second floor, you could have put a laundry room up there) to the basement. You could do a sump pump since most washing machines don't have much head pressure they can push vertical.
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Dec 10, 2012 06:06
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As an encore performance from last year's Christmas toilet repair, this Christmas I'll be replacing the ballcock and flush handle! 
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Dec 10, 2012 16:48
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You could do a sump pump since most washing machines don't have much head pressure they can push vertical. No sump pump. The basement drain is just a (woefully undersized) dry well. I'll just buy a laundry sink and a pump. Thanks! corgski fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Dec 13, 2012 |
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Dec 10, 2012 20:07
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Not quite sure if this is appropriate for this thread or not, but I've got a couple of what appear to be 1 piece tubs/surrounds in my bathrooms. The previous owner installed some godawful piece of poo poo shower door systems that I'd like to get rid of, but it appears holes got drilled into the surrounds to actually install the door frames. If I remove those, any thoughts on what should I use to fill those holes? I'm guessing this is some sort of vikrell type material, it doesn't feel particularly expensive. If it's easier to snap a picture, I can certainly do that.
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Dec 10, 2012 22:57
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Maneki Neko posted:Not quite sure if this is appropriate for this thread or not, but I've got a couple of what appear to be 1 piece tubs/surrounds in my bathrooms. The previous owner installed some godawful piece of poo poo shower door systems that I'd like to get rid of, but it appears holes got drilled into the surrounds to actually install the door frames.
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Dec 10, 2012 23:14
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Not 100% plumbing related, but I'm installing a new furnace and have a question. I'm using PVC for the intake and exhaust, and will have two 2" PVC pipes sticking out of my brick siding. Does anyone make a decorative trim/collar I can put around each pipe as it exits the brick to hide the hole and caulking job? Also, do tees exist that look like this:  All I can find at the local big box stores are sanitary tees.
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Dec 12, 2012 15:24
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Look/ask for a bullnose tee.
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Dec 12, 2012 16:22
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Heyo, I have a thing outside of my house that is leaking out of a hole in the top. It looks like the hole is supposed to be there, though. The leaking thing looks like this, which I guess is a pressure reducing valve from my internet searches: My question is: do I need to replace the whole thing - is that why it's leaking? Or is there a different reason why it might be leaking and replacing it won't fix it? It has been dripping slowly for some time now but this morning it was basically a steady flow of water. edit: When I turn on the hose full blast it slows down the PRV leaking to a drip, but when the hose is turned off it shoots back to a steady trickle of water. moana fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Dec 12, 2012 |
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Dec 12, 2012 18:14
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Valves like that leak because their seals are bad. The problem is that seals for valves like that aren't sold separately. The best/cheapest fix is probably replacing it.
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Dec 13, 2012 |
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Dec 13, 2012 03:35
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I do apologize in advance if this doesn't belong here. I have an issue with my water bill- It's too drat high. I have a basic 'this is all you're going to ever get' shower head, and I'd like to upgrade to a shower head that saves water, without sacrificing pressure. I'd like more of a rainfall type, but what i'm looking for is really a inexpensive alternative to the one I currently have. Anyone had good experience with eco shower heads? Any good brands out there?
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Dec 14, 2012 06:47
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I have this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LV7VXW/ which I find to be a pretty good compromise although it's the standard 2.5 gpm. There are also these type of things: http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Saver-Showerhead-1-5-GPM/dp/B000H5YCS4/ which are 1.5 gpm but can loving blast you. Also, check your toilets for leaky flappers.
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Dec 14, 2012 07:09
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slap me silly posted:I have this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LV7VXW/ which I find to be a pretty good compromise although it's the standard 2.5 gpm. There are also these type of things: http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Saver-Showerhead-1-5-GPM/dp/B000H5YCS4/ which are 1.5 gpm but can loving blast you. How do I check for leaky flappers?
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Dec 14, 2012 07:20
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Blah blah standard advice about putting food coloring in the tank to see if it goes to the bowl, but when I've caught a leaky toilet it's been because I heard it filling the tank at random times when no one had flushed it.
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Dec 14, 2012 07:23
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slap me silly posted:Blah blah standard advice about putting food coloring in the tank to see if it goes to the bowl, but when I've caught a leaky toilet it's been because I heard it filling the tank at random times when no one had flushed it. Ah. I took a look at the flapper, and it's really light weight. Is that a bad thing? It also has some black gunky stuff on it, and I cleaned it off.
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Dec 14, 2012 08:11
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They're supposed to be light weight, light enough to flap up when you push down on the flush lever. Gunk of any color is usually bad. Flappers are supposed to make good seals with their valve seats. If they don't, then they leak water into the bowl. Gunk usually means that the flapper is breaking down, leaving small cracks in it. The fill valve in the tank works by means of a float. Whenever the water level in the tank gets too low and the float goes down, then the fill valve lets more water into the tank. If your flapper is leaking, then the water level in the tank goes down and the fill valve comes back on to fill'er up. Ever so slowly, this wastes water. Another thing to check for is your fill valve. Sometimes they get stuck and will continuously fill the tank. Is the water level in the tank spilling into the top of the overflow tube?
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Dec 15, 2012 19:51
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kid sinister posted:They're supposed to be light weight, light enough to flap up when you push down on the flush lever. No, it's not overflowing into the tube. I think I need to get a new flapper, though. The toilet hasn't been looked out since I moved in in 2009. 
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Dec 16, 2012 09:37
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Bina posted:No, it's not overflowing into the tube. I think I need to get a new flapper, though. The toilet hasn't been looked out since I moved in in 2009. 3 years isnt that bad for a toilet but it all depends on the chlorine in your water. And the food coloring will tell a lot in a toilet. Sometimes you can't hear the toilet but the fool coloring will still show.
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Dec 16, 2012 10:54
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A new flapper is $1.99 and takes one minute to replace. Why not just change it anyway?
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Dec 16, 2012 19:18
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Any chance that a plumber would be willing to install a water heater in a room lit just by lamps? My laundry room's water heater died a few months ago. A couple weeks before I could afford to replace it, I boarded up the windows for a hurricane, and the doorbell that has never worked suddenly started "working". To be precise, it came on repeatedly and wouldn't turn off until I found its breaker switch and turned it off. Unfortunately, that also turned turned off power to my laundry room, except for appliances like the washer, dryer, etc. I definitely won't be able to hire an electrician to come fix this old house's wiring any time soon, but I'd like to stop taking ice-cold showers and washing my hair in the sink. It would be kind of embarrassing to call a plumber and explain all this and then have them call me crazy and refuse to install a new heater. Would I be crazy to call one and ask before I hire an electrician to fix the electrical issue?
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Dec 16, 2012 21:42
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EN Bullshit posted:Any chance that a plumber would be willing to install a water heater in a room lit just by lamps? Why not just disconnect the doorbell and turn the circuit back on? It's really easy to do. Go outside with a flathead screwdriver, take off the doorbell button, unscrew the wires from the button, separate them and turn the circuit back on.
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Dec 16, 2012 23:07
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Yeah, try that.
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Dec 17, 2012 00:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:And the food coloring will tell a lot in a toilet. Sometimes you can't hear the toilet but the fool coloring will still show. And if you don't have food coloring, take some toilet paper and tear it into strips and place it in the bowl (on the sides) near the top. The paper will stick. Check it in a little while - if the paper is wet, you have a leak. I did this to find an imperceptible leak in my toilet.
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Dec 17, 2012 14:11
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Any idea why a three handle tub/shower faucet is really sensitive to the cold adjustment? One minor touch and you can hear the valve clank shut and you're getting scalded. If using the tub instead of the shower you can get it to hammer. It takes massive turns to then get some cold water, which immediately comes on full blast, then you have to back it off carefully. I've replaced the stems, valve seat, etc twice now, making sure that the replacement was correct. First time I used hot side valves for both but the next time I used a proper cold side kit. It made no difference. The originals worked fine when I first moved in and only began leaking two years later, leading to the replacement and now the annoying sensitivity. The two bathrooms share a wall so there is no access panel to replace the valve body.
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Dec 20, 2012 03:17
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Ender.uNF posted:Any idea why a three handle tub/shower faucet is really sensitive to the cold adjustment? One minor touch and you can hear the valve clank shut and you're getting scalded. If using the tub instead of the shower you can get it to hammer. It takes massive turns to then get some cold water, which immediately comes on full blast, then you have to back it off carefully. I don't have a ton of knowledge on 3 handle shower valves as others may so feel free to pipe in. I have to ask why your water heater is up so high , if its above 120°F then turn it down. So it doesnt scald the poo poo out of you. A theory I have if its a gas water heater. Is your dip tube may be going out. When it starts to break apart you get hot and cold burts. You get sometimes water from the top or middle of the tank (depending where its breaking at) based on how much water you pull out of the water heater at the valve itself.
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Dec 20, 2012 03:51
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It's only 130, any lower and we run out of hot water since my wife likes to take really hot showers. It's electric which I replaced myself less than 2 years ago, but the faucet problem was happening before and after. If I really massage google I can sometimes find people complaining about the same problem (instead of SEO/spam links) but the only solutions involve adjusting the mixing setting on a single-handle unit. Just from a theoretical generic faucet perspective, the valve has a seat and a rubber washer. What would cause it to rebound or hammer as pressure is released? That seems like it must be the root of the problem.
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Dec 21, 2012 00:35
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kid sinister posted:Why not just disconnect the doorbell and turn the circuit back on? It's really easy to do. Go outside with a flathead screwdriver, take off the doorbell button, unscrew the wires from the button, separate them and turn the circuit back on.
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Dec 22, 2012 00:32
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Ender.uNF posted:Stuff I posted Well I'm not surprised there are no answers; I've asked plumbers, googled for hours, but can't find any answers. None of the other faucets in the house have this problem and if the wall were accessible, I'd cut a hole on the backside and replace the whole faucet.
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Dec 22, 2012 17:02
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Any recommendations on an under sink filter for ~$200? My wife and I have always wanted some kind of under sink water filter and I find a bunch online, but they are all hit or miss (i.e., there is no one that seems to be at the "best" price point). I'd like to spend $200 max on an under sink filter; the last one I had was a reverse osmosis from Costco, but I remember reading that RO filters tend to waste a lot of water so I returned it. I just want something that would save me from buying Brita filters every 2-3 months. I'm in CA, so I would need something that doesn't have lead fittings (apparently they banned filters with lead fittings in CA).
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Dec 23, 2012 21:06
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http://www.homedepot.com/Kitchen-Wa...1&storeId=10051 ?
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Dec 25, 2012 05:11
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That is one small over priced carbon filter. You can get a whole house filter with a changeable casing for around $200 not installed. I'd go that route but you may have to change it every other month. You can get an activated carbon filter for the entire house but it may cost a lot to have a company install it and it would have to be have media in it changed every 5-10 years (depending on water conditions).
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Dec 26, 2012 02:50
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That is one small over priced carbon filter. You can get a whole house filter with a changeable casing for around $200 not installed. I'd go that route but you may have to change it every other month. You can get an activated carbon filter for the entire house but it may cost a lot to have a company install it and it would have to be have media in it changed every 5-10 years (depending on water conditions). The small ones with the little spigot generally are overpriced. I installed a whole-house sediment filter myself for a grand total of maybe $60, but we're using pleated paper instead of charcoal.
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Dec 27, 2012 23:59
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insta posted:The small ones with the little spigot generally are overpriced. I installed a whole-house sediment filter myself for a grand total of maybe $60, but we're using pleated paper instead of charcoal. Ya I knew they were decently cheap. I think a 4x10 carbon filter runs like $20 at home depot. You can use a carbon filter as a sediment filter. They usually are 5micron. What type of stuff is your sediment filter catching. Do you have iron?
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Dec 28, 2012 01:58
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Municipal water, I installed at the same time I installed my softener because we were getting bits of sand in our faucets. The pleats generally turn a brown color after 6 months and my wife eventually sees it and goes "eww gross" then I have to replace it. I don't know if we have iron or not.
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Dec 29, 2012 06:54
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