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Deceptor101 posted:Anyone have any tricks to getting the rear door panel off an E39? This Bentley video makes it look like cake but my door is hanging up on the center around the grab handle.
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Dec 7, 2012 08:55
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CornHolio posted:A bonus was that I think a previous owner installed a short shift kit, because the throws were VERY short. (Though anything would be short compared to my E39) The Z3 1.8's have a very sought-after selector lever because of how short it makes the throw. It's quite a popular upgrade for E30/36 drivers (I think it fits the 46 too but I'm not sure) I think I'm going to go order one now  The two things I get the most complaints on when someone else drives my car at AutoX are the steering rack (4.1 lock to lock  Slaloms  ) and the shifter (Second gear is all the way down THERE?!). The loving $300 rack is going to have to wait though, that requires some fabrication and whatnot, like disabling the collapsible steering linkage (you don't want a steering wheel hitting your face with the subframe/motor behind it if you decide to headbutt a wall at 80mph on the track). I want to do some more research and see if I can't keep the collapsible linkage intact. Maybe it'll require some welding 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 16:25
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Beach Bum posted:The Z3 1.8's have a very sought-after selector lever because of how short it makes the throw. It's quite a popular upgrade for E30/36 drivers (I think it fits the 46 too but I'm not sure) Everyone claims that the Z3 rack is so much better, but I drove one that supposedly had one and it wasn't much different than the regular E36 racks I have in both my cars. I'd rather pay $50 for an E36 rack than $300 for a Z3. Also, the Z3 lever is awesome.
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Dec 7, 2012 16:35
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I'm picking up my new BMW this afternoon. 
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Dec 7, 2012 16:49
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Lightbulb Out posted:Everyone claims that the Z3 rack is so much better, but I drove one that supposedly had one and it wasn't much different than the regular E36 racks I have in both my cars. I'd rather pay $50 for an E36 rack than $300 for a Z3. Also, the Z3 lever is awesome. Supposedly the E36 racks are progressive in the middle whereas the Z3 rack is purely linear. As twitchy as the E30 seems at highway speeds I think I'd rather keep the progressive center section if I'm going to halve the steering ratio. The drawback with the progressive rack is you have to make sure you have the rack centered for alignments and a lot of the tire shop alignment jockeys won't ascend to the level of OCD I strive for when getting an alignment.  I need to find a better alignment shop.
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Dec 7, 2012 16:52
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Beach Bum posted:Supposedly the E36 racks are progressive in the middle whereas the Z3 rack is purely linear. As twitchy as the E30 seems at highway speeds I think I'd rather keep the progressive center section if I'm going to halve the steering ratio. The drawback with the progressive rack is you have to make sure you have the rack centered for alignments and a lot of the tire shop alignment jockeys won't ascend to the level of OCD I strive for when getting an alignment. Again, I have an E36 rack in both my E30s, and I haven't had any issues with alignment.
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Dec 7, 2012 17:37
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How hard is the swap to do? I haven't had any problems with my rack so far but the ratio is kind of annoying.
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Dec 7, 2012 18:03
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It's not super difficult, but on airbag cars you have to cut the firewall a bit to get the angle correct. http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?category=e30%20S50%2FM50%20Swap The top link is the kit they make to swap racks, and you can see the install pictures.
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Dec 7, 2012 18:09
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1: Does anyone in the DC area have a Peake SRS scan/reset tool I could use? There's beer in it for you. 2: Someone help me understand the relationship between ODB-2 and remnants of the ODB-1 system that go into a '96 e36. When I first went to check out the car, the CEL was not on, but I plugged in my Scangauge and it came back with a stored O2 sensor code. The P.O. said he'd gotten that fixed, and since the CEL wasn't on, I was satisfied with that answer. Later, I got a CEL because the garage I went to for an oil change left the dipstick out. I replaced the dipstick and cleared the codes with the Scangauge and everything was fine and none have come back. The other day, I used my Peake tool to reset the Inspection light and, on a whim, ran a scan for codes. It came back with 11-36 (I think it was 36...) which indicates a slow-to-respond pre-cat 02 on 4-6. I used the function on the Peake that is supposed to clear codes, but another scan returned the same code. Does this mean that the problem is actually still present but hasn't triggered the ODB-2 for some reason, that there is a different method for clearing that code, or something else?
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Dec 7, 2012 18:50
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Lightbulb Out posted:Again, I have an E36 rack in both my E30s, and I haven't had any issues with alignment. I did say supposedly  Maybe it was the 95 M3 rack I don't know 
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Dec 7, 2012 19:00
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Beach Bum posted:I did say supposedly Regardless, you need an E36/Z3 rack of some sort. In my opinion its probably the best upgrade you can do.
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Dec 7, 2012 19:07
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Lowclock posted:If it's anything like e34s, there's a little compression/slide clip kinda deal back there still holding the panel to the door. You should be able to push it out with a long flat screwdriver from the bottom. Yes, that's what it was, but what the internet fails to mention is the special circumstances if you have the privacy shades. gently caress those things. They're screwed into the door underneath the wood trim (you don't have to remove the trim otherwise) and they slide into a tab on the door panel, so they form this incredibly easy-to-break bond between the door panel and the door. Time to break out the epoxy, as it's a complete unit and each one is something like $140. Also gently caress whoever worked on the car before, the vapor barrier is intact, they were just too lazy to re-attach it!
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Dec 7, 2012 20:31
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televiper posted:1: Does anyone in the DC area have a Peake SRS scan/reset tool I could use? There's beer in it for you. You're looking for a reset tool, but then in a later paragraph you talk about using your own reset tool? Not sure I follow you here. If you are looking to reset the inspection I/II oil change lights you can do it with a paper clip. http://www.bmwe36blog.com/reset-bmw-e36-oil-service-light.html
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Dec 7, 2012 23:25
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sean10mm posted:I'm picking up my new BMW this afternoon. There is a very nice coding thread over on Bimmerfest for once you get the urge to fiddle with the software settings on your new car. On my F10, I've gotten around to setting the Auto/Start Stop to "Last Setting", auto-unlocking the driver door when OFF button is pressed, disabling the iDrive startup screen warnings, disabling the seatbelt chimes, and will look into some other stuff when I get around to it. Of course you'll lose all the customization if you take it in for any software upgrades but it's literally under 30 min of work to do it again once you get the hang of it.
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Dec 8, 2012 01:05
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Realjones posted:You're looking for a reset tool, but then in a later paragraph you talk about using your own reset tool? Not sure I follow you here. Peake Research makes two major classes of tool. One reads and resets BMW-specific ODB-1 Check Engine codes and resets oil service, inspection, and a few 8-series-specific items. That one I've got. The other reads and resets airbag codes. That one I don't got.
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Dec 8, 2012 02:12
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Keyser S0ze posted:There is a very nice coding thread over on Bimmerfest for once you get the urge to fiddle with the software settings on your new car. That's interesting, I'll have to look into it. Just got the car from the dealer, so I've hardly driven it at all, but so far I'm really happy with it.
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Dec 8, 2012 03:12
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I've recently developed a strange sound on my e46, it sounds like water sloshing around in my dash somewhere, but only while accelerating in a low gear. I've only noticed it since I started using the heat regularly, so I'm wondering if it's connected to the heater core or climate control system somehow?
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Dec 12, 2012 04:01
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I don't expect that anybody has them out for the F30 yet, but who makes the best short throw shifters for BMWs?
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Dec 13, 2012 16:18
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sean10mm posted:I don't expect that anybody has them out for the F30 yet, but who makes the best short throw shifters for BMWs? In my experience, BMW. Just pull them from a sportier car like the Z3/4/8/whatever, they usually have shorter throws. Beware, though, in the old days there was a lot more inter-compatability between 3's/5's and whatnot. Check the various forums for more info.
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Dec 13, 2012 16:26
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I bought a 1990 525i with 190k miles in October and its been great so far, very solid and comfortable. Fun to drive too, it doesn't feel as heavy or big as it actually is. I do have a weird squeak though. At first I thought it must be a belt, but it seems too regular for that - it stays the same regardless of engine temp and electrical draw. Anyone have any suggestions where I should start looking? I can take a video of it later if that'd be helpful. Oh, and what should I get to remove the hub caps? I had a flat and had to pry one off with a screwdriver, completely destroying it in the process
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Dec 13, 2012 22:47
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take a video of your noise and your hubcaps.
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Dec 13, 2012 23:53
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sean10mm posted:I don't expect that anybody has them out for the F30 yet, but who makes the best short throw shifters for BMWs? This guy has some reviews and installation guides for his E46 M3. Might be able to get some reputable brand names from him, at least.
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Dec 14, 2012 00:16
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Strabo4 posted:I bought a 1990 525i with 190k miles in October and its been great so far, very solid and comfortable. Fun to drive too, it doesn't feel as heavy or big as it actually is. You can get a new little hubcap removal tool from a dealership or parts house for like $4. Just make sure you get the right one, because there's a few different ones for different wheels.
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Dec 14, 2012 00:59
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So I've been having an intermittent no-start problem with my '04 330Ci automatic. I got in it the other day and when I turned the key, the starter didn't engage, didn't click or anything. No noise or action from the engine. All my electronics and lights and everything worked. I thought it may be a weak battery so I got that tested and they told me it was ok. Took the battery home, put it back into the car, boom, started right up with no hesitation. Since then, it's been on and off for the past week and I've been driving our shop's truck so I don't get stranded anywhere. Last night and this morning it's started a handful of times with no failures. The ONLY thing that has changed is we had our first cold snap of the year here, temps got into the mid to high 20's at night then back into the 50's during the day. I don't know if that would have anything to do with this, I doubt it. Do you guys know of anything I could check? I've looked around online and the most common things people seem to say are check the battery, and that this seems to be a known problem with this particular car and no one knows why, but it will come and go away at random.
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Dec 14, 2012 15:09
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Just flat out replace the battery every 3 years with the Duralast 49DL or whatever it is from Autozone. You might have had a slightly loose battery connection, even the slightest twitch in load will freak these cars out. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=4490 Also it could be the Alternator....I am still on the original alternator on my 2002 330 but I assume it could go at any time. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Dec 14, 2012 |
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Dec 14, 2012 20:17
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Do you guys know of anything I could check? I've looked around online and the most common things people seem to say are check the battery, and that this seems to be a known problem with this particular car and no one knows why, but it will come and go away at random. Cables and cable connections at both ends. Remove, clean, inspect, reattach and apply dielectric grease. Yes, the ground cable too.
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Dec 14, 2012 20:57
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Thanks for your advice. I will pick up a new battery on my way home tonight and check/clean/grease the cables on both ends.
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Dec 14, 2012 21:35
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Just to clarify, make sure you put the grease on top of the terminal after you connect it, not in between the terminal and cable or cable and chassis.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Dec 15, 2012 |
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Dec 15, 2012 02:14
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So an update on my E30 aquisition. It seems that it has come down to me either getting a 1990 E30 for free, or owing my stepdad $2000 for a 01 Volvo S40 1.9 Turbo. As nice as the Volvo is, I have some definite visibility issues in it compared to the E30, so I am probably going to go with the BMW. As of right now, the car is almost showroom fresh, and all of the major kinks in it have been sorted out except for one. The car has an odd vibration at lower speeds that my stepdad's race shop has been unable to locate and eliminate. It has had this vibration for over 100K miles though, so it doesn't seem to be doing anything bad to the car, and it is almost barely noticable. The car has been apart several times, and its previous owner had quite a bit of money to throw at the thing, and we were still unable to ascertain the problem. I was just wondering if any of you guys had any ideas of what it could be based on other E30 325i's.
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Dec 15, 2012 20:59
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jadebullet posted:So an update on my E30 aquisition. It seems that it has come down to me either getting a 1990 E30 for free, or owing my stepdad $2000 for a 01 Volvo S40 1.9 Turbo. As nice as the Volvo is, I have some definite visibility issues in it compared to the E30, so I am probably going to go with the BMW. It would help if you would describe the vibration a little bit more. Is it speed related or engine speed related?
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Dec 15, 2012 21:27
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It seems to be speed related. You can just barely feel it at about 40mph, but you can hear it.
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Dec 16, 2012 01:21
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jadebullet posted:It seems to be speed related. You can just barely feel it at about 40mph, but you can hear it. That could be anything, unfortunately. It could be as simple as a wheel out of balance or a bent rim, or your bushings could be shot, or you might have a bad wheel bearing; can't really say until you start to eliminate some possibilities. e: can you locate the sound as you drive (eg. front or rear; left or right)?
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Dec 16, 2012 02:45
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Keyser, Motronic, Lowclock, thanks for your advice. I put a new battery in the car and checked the cables, etc. and haven't had any issues since. Really appreciate the help!
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Dec 16, 2012 03:23
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MrChips posted:That could be anything, unfortunately. It could be as simple as a wheel out of balance or a bent rim, or your bushings could be shot, or you might have a bad wheel bearing; can't really say until you start to eliminate some possibilities. It is none of those things. It sounds like it is in the rear of the car. It might be an unbalanced shaft, but I am not sure. All of the more obvious answers have already been checked multiple times.
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Dec 16, 2012 18:25
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I'm having some strange symptoms in a 2003 330i. I replaced the valve cover gasket due to leaking about a quart a month of oil at 75k, which worked beautifully. At ~118k last February I had yellow foam under my oil fill cap, and removed the valve cover to find a pretty substantial amount of the same yellow foam in the (impossible to clean) plastic grid on the underside. I attributed this to coolant in the oil and proceeded to poo poo my pants. Three of the valve cover nuts were very loose so I cleaned everything up, reapplied gasket sealant+gasket and the valve cover, and did an oil+filter change. The oil came out clean with no discoloration or signs of coolant and no noticeable extra volume. I also topped up the coolant with around a quart. I've been keeping an eye on it and hadn't had any problems until two days ago there was a yellow haze on the oil cap at 124k. Yesterday there was no yellow foam but I replaced the valve cover gasket (no yellow foam anywhere), did an oil+filter change (clean and no extra volume), and again topped the coolant up with no more than half a quart. I haven't checked my coolant level before this for a few months, and again the oil came out perfectly clean. Is it possible for there to be coolant mixed with oil in my valve cover and nowhere else? Do I have a head gasket leak that I've been stupidly lucky enough to not detect for 10 months? Since the first coolant/oil spotting I've kept a hawk's eye on my temperature gauge - it heats to and holds temperature dead in the middle just as it always has. Water pump (not thermostat, but this would fail open right?) was replaced at 108k. The expansion tank went out just a thousand or so miles AFTER the first coolant spotting, which I thought may or may not be related given the fact that it's a BMW expansion tank. I've done all the work myself, and I've always used Prestone "USE THIS FOR ALL CARS AND YOUR FAVORITE REFRESHING BEVERAGE" coolant and haven't really bought into the BMW labelled coolant hype about any other brand clogging the coolant passages; is that a potential catastrophe? EDIT: I noticed this ground spot on the camshaft for the first time yesterday, is this part of the balancing process during manufacturing? It didn't seem like there was anything that could have caused this during normal engine operation. 
Cellular Suicide fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 16, 2012 |
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Dec 16, 2012 21:15
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It's not about clogging coolant packages, it's about chemicals used in the coolant reacting adversely with the alloys in the block and the heads.
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Dec 16, 2012 21:25
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Sounds more like oil frothing to me. I nay be completely wrong here, but make sure you don't have too much oil, and check your pcv system. Is the yellow foam oily? If it was headgasket, you'd have noticeable amounts of coolant in your oil.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:13
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jadebullet posted:It is none of those things. It sounds like it is in the rear of the car. It might be an unbalanced shaft, but I am not sure. All of the more obvious answers have already been checked multiple times. Have you checked out your driveshaft centre bearing? As other likely possibilities go, you might have a CV joint going bad.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:22
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sincx fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Dec 17, 2012 08:07
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$440 installed for a new radiator doesn't seem horrible, so I guess there's a good chance their ATF change cost is reasonable, but...$400-$500?! sheeeeeIT! I've only owned manuals, so I haven't needed to price out (or look into DIY) for ATF change - are all auto's in that neighborhood or is this something special? televiper fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Dec 17, 2012 |
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Dec 17, 2012 17:13
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