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Mine works just fine in my Mk6 GTI using a 30 pin to lightning adapter.
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Dec 13, 2012 02:57
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Fleshpeg posted:I'm considering purchasing a new A4 or A5 in the first half of next year but I'm still narrowing down my options. Does the difference between the two come down to more or less just a coupe vs sedan preference on similar chassis? Considering the performance is the same, I went with the extra practicality of the A4 when I got mine (2011). If you really wanted a sporty coupe, you would probably be looking at the TT. The A5 and A4 just look too similar imo. You can get the S-tronic (dual clutch) in the S4 if you decide to go that route, and personally, if you can afford it, I would do it. The only thing I regret about buying my A4 is that I didn't get the S4 instead. That said, the A4 with manual is a hell of a lot of fun to drive to me. I've had absolutely no issues with mine since I got it, sitting at 30k km's with 2 2500km roadtrips included. Parked outside, Daily driven (for fun since i dont need to drive to work) summer and winter (Canada)
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Dec 13, 2012 05:57
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Residency Evil posted:Have any of you guys used an iPhone 5 with your MDI cables/GTIs? I'm hoping I can charge/get music to play via the MDI cable. I've tried looking at the golf forums but it seems to be split. You'll hate yourself a lot less if you use Bluetooth audio for audio playback and get a USB car charger to plug the iPhone cable into. The MDI interface is poo poo poo poo poo poo and slow slow slow.
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Dec 13, 2012 06:32
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Would the MDI->USB dongle at least charge the iPhone? I agree that bluetooth audio is the way to go, but the 12V socket in the GTI is in kind of a weird place to have a charger.
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Dec 13, 2012 08:26
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Would the MDI->USB dongle at least charge the iPhone? I agree that bluetooth audio is the way to go, but the 12V socket in the GTI is in kind of a weird place to have a charger. It charges my iPod classic that is permanently parked in my car, so I'd say yes.
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Dec 13, 2012 15:11
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I went for my daily lunch walk, and there was a v10 S6 in the parking lot  I hate being poor.
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Dec 13, 2012 20:30
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Would the MDI->USB dongle at least charge the iPhone? I agree that bluetooth audio is the way to go, but the 12V socket in the GTI is in kind of a weird place to have a charger. I use the MDI to charge my phone when it is low on juice and then switch back to Bluetooth. Works fine. I have a 4S with iOS 6, can't speak on the iPhone 5. This is with the normal dock connector too. The car switches over and then I just switch it back but keep it keeps charging.
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Dec 13, 2012 23:08
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Hello, AI reading Audi folk. I just picked up a 2013 A3 TDI. Does anybody know of a good way to get more HP through ECU tuning? Something that's reversible or switchable when I take a trip to the dealership. Thanks~
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Dec 14, 2012 03:12
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derelicte posted:Hello, AI reading Audi folk. APR is pretty reliable: http://www.goapr.com/products/?category=Audi
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Dec 14, 2012 03:34
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BoyBlunder posted:APR is pretty reliable: http://www.goapr.com/products/?category=Audi I'm probably too early, since nobody has made one yet. My model isn't listed there. It's a 8V.
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Dec 14, 2012 03:48
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http://malonetuning.com/ looks to have some newer stuff, although you maybe still be too new. I know they're good for older TDI's.
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Dec 14, 2012 07:30
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chutwig posted:You'll hate yourself a lot less if you use Bluetooth audio for audio playback and get a USB car charger to plug the iPhone cable into. The MDI interface is poo poo poo poo poo poo and slow slow slow. A couple of months ago I was looking around online for info regarding the MDI interface, since I find it really slow as well, and I find it often either outputs no sound or starts playing a song and after 5-10 seconds, the sound cuts out. Same thing if I leave the phone plugged in when I stop the car and then start it again with it still plugged in. Apparently the dealer can flash the firmware to fix this issue as well as make the interface way more responsive. I'm going to ask about it when I have to take the car in for service (not for awhile yet). Do you find the bluetooth audio quality is pretty good? Also, when using bluetooth, the only way to control what's playing is through the phone, right?
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Dec 14, 2012 14:41
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derelicte posted:I'm probably too early, since nobody has made one yet. My model isn't listed there. It's a 8V. Revo is pretty much the best tune out for the TDI right now, unless you get rid of the DPF and get a stage 2 tune. Either way, from most of my reading, tuning the TDI doesn't net you much due to all the emissions bullshit.
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Dec 14, 2012 16:08
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tropical posted:Do you find the bluetooth audio quality is pretty good? Also, when using bluetooth, the only way to control what's playing is through the phone, right? BT audio quality sounds perfectly fine, and you have to control everything through the phone, yes (but given how slow the MDI interface has been for me, using the phone to control it feels quite preferable).
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Dec 14, 2012 20:02
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Depending on which Bluetooth unit or head unit you may be able to go back as forward tracks using the steering wheel. On my 2010 GTI it didn't work as well from what I recall. They did have an update for the MDI that improved some of that. On the 2012 I have now the Bluetooth is built into the head unit with nav. It works a lot better, even through MDI. I use Siri to start up albums or podcasts quite often. I find it easier to hold down the big button on the phone and then the Bluetooth mic kicks in. I just wish you could trigger Siri from the steering wheel instead of it doing the voice command built into the car. I hate multitasking while driving, so the less physical interaction the better.
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Dec 14, 2012 20:36
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Interesting about the update. Is the update something I can do myself, or do I need a vagcom to do it? I've never had too much of a problem with the MDI, fwiw.
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Dec 14, 2012 22:22
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I have one of these on the way http://www.theauris.com/ that I plan on hooking up to a 3rd party ipod dock interface. The 3rd party dock is an easier decision for me since I've got a 2009 TTS without MMI/NAV. Auris supports AVRCP (the Bluetooth protocol that allows you to control the playback), and should be able to bridge the ipod dock controls to Bluetooth. I'll do a writeup when I have my complete findings.
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Dec 15, 2012 00:57
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Residency Evil posted:Interesting about the update. Is the update something I can do myself, or do I need a vagcom to do it? I've never had too much of a problem with the MDI, fwiw. If you find posts about your head unit on http://my-gti.com they usually have instructions. I think you have to have the right MDI cable and storage device to put the firmware on. I just had the dealer do it when I was going in for something else since I don't think it takes too long. I just complained about the gap between tracks or something and asked they update it.
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Dec 15, 2012 04:08
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I'm in the process of replacing the rotors + brakes on my 02 Audi TT (which has been arduous to say the least) and I encountered this today. It appears that this cable and the wires inside have been snipped. It didn't appear to be attached to anything when I noticed it had been cut. I've never done this before, but it looks a lot like the brake sensor. Can someone confirm/deny? 
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Dec 15, 2012 23:37
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That appears to be the pad wear sensor. You jam the (cut off end) in the split in the brake pad. When it gets crushed by low pad depth is shorts out and lights up the brake warning light on the dash. If it's cleanly cut and not shorted that just doesn't happen. So you can pick up some pad sensors and replace them or just leave it like that. I'm of the mind that if a job is worth doing it's worth doing right, so unless they are hideously expensive I'd replace them.
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Dec 16, 2012 00:29
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derelicte posted:Hello, AI reading Audi folk. Check out any Audi website and search for "TD1". Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Dec 16, 2012 |
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Dec 16, 2012 02:07
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Mr. Apollo posted:You need to get the ECU reflashed to stock when you take it in. Audi now hooks your car up to the scanner for every service, no matter how minor, and it does a checksum validation on your ECU. If it doesn't match up your car is flagged with a TD1 code which means that it's been modified. Dealers and Audi are using this as a way to deny any and all warranty claims on tuned vehicles. People have gotten warranty claims approved with a TD1 flag but it's usually and arduous process involving calls and emails to Audis head offcie asking them to put it in writing that they're denying your warranty claim due to your engine tune. The problem is that a lot of the stuff being denyed is not remotly related to an engine tune. Wow, how long has this been going on? What a pain in the rear end.
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Dec 16, 2012 02:10
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BoyBlunder posted:Wow, how long has this been going on? What a pain in the rear end. I can't say I blame them. Now that the S4 has gone back to FI with the supercharged V6, replacing the NA V8 of the previous two generations, Audi doesn't want a repeat of the B5 S4 fiasco where people where tuning the cars and blowing turbos all over the place only to have them replaced under warranty. Some tunes, like APR's, allow you to switch back to the stock map. However, this will not fool the scan since it doesn't look to see what map the engine is running rather it validates the actual programming code. Since the modified ECU contains different code it will fail the test. The dealer could always just examine the ECU and see that the seal has been broken but I doubt they'd do that unless they had reason to suspect that you had done something to the car. Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Dec 16, 2012 |
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Dec 16, 2012 05:26
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Mr. Apollo posted:Dealers and Audi are using this as a way to deny any and all warranty claims on tuned vehicles. That's not even remotely legal for them to do.
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Dec 16, 2012 13:00
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Mr. Apollo posted:You need to get the ECU reflashed to stock when you take it in. Audi now hooks your car up to the scanner for every service, no matter how minor, and it does a checksum validation on your ECU. If it doesn't match up your car is flagged with a TD1 code which means that it's been modified. Dealers and Audi are using this as a way to deny any and all warranty claims on tuned vehicles. People have gotten warranty claims approved with a TD1 flag but it's usually and arduous process involving calls and emails to Audis head offcie asking them to put it in writing that they're denying your warranty claim due to your engine tune. The problem is that a lot of the stuff being denied is not remotly related to an engine tune. I'm a technician at an Audi dealership and we definitely don't check the coding on your ECU when you bring your car in. We do hook up the scanner for pretty much every service but it doesn't automatically check your car for a tune. We'd have to run SVM (scans every control module and compares it to what the stock coding is) or check the coding manually and we're not going to do that unless we're searching for a bigger problem. Even then, I've still not heard of anyone's warranty claim being denied for just a tune or minor bolt-ons, at least at my dealership.
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Dec 16, 2012 14:49
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Along the lines of warranty coverage, what is Audi's official stance nowadays regarding the HPFP cam follower on the 2.0T? I have a BWT coded engine in my A4 with nearly 60k miles. It has always been serviced by the dealer and has the CPO warranty. Are they proactively checking these things now, or are they just waiting for it to poo poo the bed? I have had them run the oil consumption test twice now and both times it is within spec, averaging about .5qt every 1k miles. Unrelated, but also a concern I have. How much of a pain in the rear end is Audi on covering the warranty on the cam follower failure? If I keep the oil changed and check it regularly and keep it topped up is the consumption a real concern?
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Dec 16, 2012 16:01
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Brain Issues posted:I'm a technician at an Audi dealership and we definitely don't check the coding on your ECU when you bring your car in. We do hook up the scanner for pretty much every service but it doesn't automatically check your car for a tune. Here's the letter from Audi of America. As you can see, they tell the dealer to manually enter a warranty key code when things like CAIs, short shifters, exhaust systems, etc have been added to the car as it might be an indicator of further power train modifications.   
Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Dec 16, 2012 |
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Dec 16, 2012 20:15
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fknlo posted:That's not even remotely legal for them to do. One guy spent almost a month trying to get Audi to replace his valve cover gaskets under warranty becuase they were leaking. He was running an APR tune and they denied the claim. Eventually Audi said that they would do it provided he flashed his car back to stock and his car would be subject to ECU verification every time he came into an Audi dealer after that.
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Dec 16, 2012 20:22
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Motronic posted:That appears to be the pad wear sensor. I've hit a new issue though, and this is one I haven't dealt with before:  That is the bolt that attaches the caliper mount to the wheel hub (caliper mount not shown). As you can see, the bolt wants to screw in at a 100 degree angle instead of 90. This of course means it only goes about 5 or 6 turns before it gets stuck. I can't get the bolt to bite going in straight on. How does this happen, and what the hell do I do about it?
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Dec 16, 2012 20:24
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It appears you've knackered up the threads. My typical solution to that would be to carefully "chase" the threads with a properly sized tap. If too much of it is damaged the part either gets replaced or thread repaired as appropriate/reasonable.
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Dec 16, 2012 20:28
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Motronic posted:It appears you've knackered up the threads. How the heck does this happen? And are you talking about something like this? http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202214125/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=tap&storeId=10051#.UM4iK2_Ac-0 (I don't know if that's the right size, I just grabbed one at random.)
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Dec 16, 2012 20:35
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The Wonder Weapon posted:How the heck does this happen? By cross-threading the bolt and continuing to tighten it until you bend/break the threads. The Wonder Weapon posted:And are you talking about something like this? http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202214125/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=tap&storeId=10051#.UM4iK2_Ac-0 (I don't know if that's the right size, I just grabbed one at random.) Yeah...minus the drill bit typically. You won't need on to chase threads, only if you are drilling and tapping threads into a new hole.
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Dec 16, 2012 21:01
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Anyone know a good VW/Porsche mechanic in the Bay Area? Need a few things done to my Touareg, including timing belts.
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Dec 16, 2012 21:51
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Crossposting from the A/T Car Buying Thread, but I'm looking at buying an A4, most likely used/CPO from 2010-12. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=84#post410624755 A few questions: - any guidance as to what package/option would have the curved LED driving lights? They seem to definitely be on the Premium+ but there's not many of those around. If possible, I'd love to have those with Premium and a Nav but that combination is tough to find. - My company has a program for 6% MSRP off new models - if I did decide to pursue the new car option, am I more likely to be able to negotiate a better deal that that anyway? - I checked the A/T Buying Thread OP and a couple other places but what's the best place to look online for Audis? I've primarily used the local dealerships websites, plus Cars.com, Autotrader and a bit of eBay but didn't know if there were better sites more specific to Audi. - there doesn't seem to be much supply of A4 models in my area (Scottsdale/Phoenix) like I'm looking for - how painful of process would it be to go to a major city in a neighboring state like Las Vegas or Los Angeles to buy it there ie tax, test drive, drive back home, etc - I probably wouldn't end up pulling the trigger on them because I expect a serious premium in what I'd pay but I'd love a S4 if it wasn't too much more. How reliable would these be somewhat used (say under 40,000 miles?). I saw this '11 on ebay with 27k miles and this '11 listing on Cars.com , which was way below KBB. Too good to be true I'm guessing?
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Dec 16, 2012 23:06
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I have never taken my VW Rabbit 06 in for scheduled service (bought it @ 45k). I've been checking fluid levels/oil changes on my own etc. However, I just hit 80k... Would you guys recommend taking it in for the service in case poo poo is getting worn down that I don't notice, like timing belts or whatever (don't know much about cars), or should I wait it out till the 100k mark? I don't like spending money when it's not advisable...
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Dec 17, 2012 00:40
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sticksy posted:Crossposting from the A/T Car Buying Thread, but I'm looking at buying an A4, most likely used/CPO from 2010-12. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=84#post410624755 One thing I can tell you is that since Audi refreshed the A4 for 2013 (new front and rear ends & a slightly updated interior) you can get some really good deals on remaining 2012 models. Some people are buying new 2012s for less than a CPO 2010 - 2011 car.
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Dec 17, 2012 00:43
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Motronic posted:By cross-threading the bolt and continuing to tighten it until you bend/break the threads. All the stores within walking distance were closed, so I tried just threading the bolt through from the other side. It went in fine, and straightened out whatever the problem was on the other end. No tap needed! I'm now trying to find some replacement screws for my rotors. Just the screw that holds the rotor onto the hub. I can't seem to find a parts list for the car anywhere though. How do I find out exactly what type of screws these are so I can replace them?
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Dec 17, 2012 01:16
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm now trying to find some replacement screws for my rotors. Just the screw that holds the rotor onto the hub. I can't seem to find a parts list for the car anywhere though. How do I find out exactly what type of screws these are so I can replace them? You'll be fine without those. They just make reassembly easier.
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Dec 17, 2012 02:39
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I have a 2001 S4 Avant, and I had an incident with a large rock getting kicked directly in front of my wheel. I ordered a used replacement wheel to be delivered to a tire place to get the new tire mounted and balanced etc. When I picked up the wheel, I found that it was the correct 6-spoke wheel that came stock on the car, but in the wrong color. It was dark grey (gunmetal?) while my wheels are silver. Was this a dealer option, or did it come from the factory on another model? Also, while replacing the cv axle for said wheel, I found that the pinch bolt holding on the upper control arms really sucks to remove.
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Dec 17, 2012 04:07
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The Wonder Weapon posted:All the stores within walking distance were closed, so I tried just threading the bolt through from the other side. It went in fine, and straightened out whatever the problem was on the other end. No tap needed! Yeah you mean the little T30 for the rotor to the hub? You don't need them, the lug bolts will hold them onto the hub.
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Dec 17, 2012 04:07
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