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Nidhg00670000 posted:Yeah, the problem with that engine is that it get nowhere near the official consumption. Official consumption combined is 4.9 litres/100km, in real life it seems to be 6.0 and upwards. And the highest output on the market right now is 125hp. That "International engine of the year" award probably cost them a pretty penny. Yeah, but 146 with a Superchips remap. Fuel economy figures are completely hit or miss with modern cars. I had a rental Vauxhall / opel (the newish big one, can't remember the name) with the 1.6 td that is supposed to have 150 hp and 50+ mpg. 33 mpg on my commute going very carefully, and that's 85% out of town driving at 60. You read all these promising official test figures, but it seems more likely than not you never see a figure anything like the one on the window sticker. Old cars usually seem to return close to the claimed figures.
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Dec 17, 2012 08:32
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Saga posted:Yeah, but 146 with a Superchips remap. 50+ mpg!* *simulated road conditions using a dynapack. Inside a vacuum.
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Dec 17, 2012 09:23
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SaNChEzZ posted:50+ mpg!* I think in the EU it's actually something like starting with a fully warm car, driving downhill for most of the test at 39mph, then accelerating to 100kmh for the shortest possible time. That is your out of town figure. Was looking at maybe getting a 520d or 318/118d as a winter hack / tow car, as they go like gently caress when you chip them and the chipped 1.8 has a blinding power curve, but trying to find out mpg figures all I could find were heated arguments between people getting 28mpg and a few who claimed to be getting 50. At least the Tuono will give me a predictable 33 cross-country.
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Dec 17, 2012 15:11
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Saga posted:Was looking at maybe getting a 520d or 318/118d as a winter hack / tow car, as they go like gently caress when you chip them and the chipped 1.8 has a blinding power curve, but trying to find out mpg figures all I could find were heated arguments between people getting 28mpg and a few who claimed to be getting 50. There's not such thing as an E90 1.8 diesel, they're all either 2.0 I4 or 3.0 I6 with varying levels of stock power. BMW's naming policy has never really matched up with actual displacement.
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Dec 17, 2012 15:26
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KozmoNaut posted:There's not such thing as an E90 1.8 diesel, they're all either 2.0 I4 or 3.0 I6 with varying levels of stock power. BMW's naming policy has never really matched up with actual displacement. Never? I thought that late in the E36 generation the numbers started not matching up but before that they did? I could well be wrong of course! Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Dec 17, 2012 |
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Dec 17, 2012 16:12
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KozmoNaut posted:There's not such thing as an E90 1.8 diesel, they're all either 2.0 I4 or 3.0 I6 with varying levels of stock power. BMW's naming policy has never really matched up with actual displacement. 118d it is then! Problem is finding one with a tow bar, since SE spec 118s are apparently all sales rep cars.
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Dec 17, 2012 22:26
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Yeah, the 115hp 116d and the 143hp 118d is the same engine with different ECU programming. And as for the EU cert fuel consumption process, it's because it simulates real life driving with (for example) blinding acceleration (0-70kph in 41 seconds) and then keeps it up with more real life driving (70-100kph in 35 sec). Yeah, that's real life driving for you.
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Dec 17, 2012 22:54
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Finally got the 6v USB power supply working for my Garmin on my 1955 BMW.  Now I just have to solder it together without melting it, and figure out a way to hide it somewhere on a bike with no fairings, and heat sink the fucker cause drat it gets hot.
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Dec 18, 2012 03:35
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Well, yeah, looks like you're just using a plain old linear regulator. For every watt that goes into the GPS, you're going to have to dissipate about 1.1-1.2 watts as heat. Also, USB is specced as 5v +- .25v, so if you're actually putting out 6v, there is a chance you'll blow up the GPS. And if your regulator goes up to the full 14v range, you'll be dissipating more energy as heat than you're actually sending to the GPS... = cooked ICs. Get something like this next time instead: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/MEE3S1205SC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtwaiKVUtQsNaDUUFcx77g47xUu3N9WkAY%3d an appropriately-sized switching buck converter that takes 12v and outputs USB-spec power, with minimal losses. They barely heat up at all in use, and while the power isn't quite as clean, it's more than good enough for anything that charges via USB. If your regulator goes above 13.2v at any time you should upgrade to a slightly heavier-duty unit but that should cover most cases. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Dec 18, 2012 |
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Dec 18, 2012 03:53
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No I'm putting out 5.19v to the GPS because USB is 5v and the bike is a 6v system as you can see in my text and my photo which shows a battery with three 2v cells. Your electric-fu is weak, my friend. Your move.
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Dec 18, 2012 04:42
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Yep, totally missed that it was a 6v battery. Of course it is, if it's that old. To be fair you did call it a "6v USB power supply".  (If your linear regulator is getting hot you could still benefit from a buck converter)
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Dec 18, 2012 04:48
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Yeah, the 115hp 116d and the 143hp 118d is the same engine with different ECU programming. The only thing left to do is to work out how this benefits French car makers, and we'll finally understand the logic of the EU fuel economy regime. Or is it that, in a stirring display of western European unity, the car companies were allowed to design the testing regime for purposes of (i) gaming emission and economy based tax regimes to boost new car sales and (ii) greenwash?
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Dec 18, 2012 08:11
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This is CA Porn, functionally modding something which should have been allowed to die decades ago. Riding old bikes is just recklessly endangering yourself. They're not suited to modern-day conditions and quite frankly with the inferior technology it's dangerous. Ride new bikes with the tech, safety and the extra HP.
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Dec 18, 2012 08:52
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Philanthropy! posted:This is CA Porn, functionally modding something which should have been allowed to die decades ago. Having something old and lovely with no horsepower or grip is much, much safer in the long term because it teaches you to ride properly. By this reasoning everyone should have a literbike because they by far have the best brakes, most HP and tech? Safety on a bike is a mind-set, not a design feature.
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Dec 18, 2012 10:09
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You see folks, old things should be thrown away, because you know, they're old and obviously newer is always better.
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Dec 18, 2012 10:23
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Yeah, the 115hp 116d and the 143hp 118d is the same engine with different ECU programming. Which car did they base those test cycles on, a 2CV at full throttle?! Nevermind, a 2CV would never be able to hit 100kph anyway  Considering how ludicrous the test is, I'm amazed that I could actually hit 21.5km/l in my Panda that was specced at 23.3km/l. I'm currently getting 11.2km/l in my Peugeot, which is specced at 11.4km/l. They should let me test drive cars for average fuel consumption!
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Dec 18, 2012 11:37
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I'm trying my best to teach myself motorbike repair right now. "Don't know the fault? gently caress it, take everything off and see if something looks hosed" is working well so far. Replaced my indicators, gave the bodywork a wee scrub, going to grease the screws so I don't have to call out a handyman to remove a couple of them next time, and lubricating the back brake. I'm also trying to fix the dark mass of wires and eldritch magic known as a "Honda electrical system". If you guys who were doing the battery testing could see the attempts I'm making at working a multimeter you'd weep in despair.
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Dec 18, 2012 12:12
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Wootcannon posted:going to grease the screws so I don't have to call out a handyman to remove a couple of them next time If you have steel bolts, especially stainless, going into aluminium, get a stick of Loctite 8060 or other non-copper anti-seize. It's not as slippy as grease (which can lead to over torquing your bolts) and comes in a handy pritt-stick type tube.
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Dec 18, 2012 13:28
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ReelBigLizard posted:You see folks, old things should be thrown away, because you know, they're old and obviously newer is always better.
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Dec 18, 2012 14:40
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Philanthropy! posted:This is CA Porn, functionally modding something which should have been allowed to die decades ago. Yase. Lighter bikes with more HP are much safer because of the seatbelts and airbags.
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Dec 18, 2012 16:35
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Well I don't know about lighter but we've got the airbags covered. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kWu8mvXDaE Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've done panic stops once each on my '55 BMW and my '98 Ducati, and one of them is an experience like, "oh my god oh my god I'm not going to stop oh Jesus thank god I barely stopped," and one was like, "oh my god oh...I'm stopped already. nevermind." There is a bit of extra risk involved there. For me it's worth the reward. It stayed that way up to the 80's.
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Dec 18, 2012 16:56
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Put the bike up for the winter, nice having my own house to do what I want to do.. Will be tearing it down to do some electric work (heated grips, aux lights, relay harness, etc) 
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Dec 19, 2012 01:33
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Good dog.
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Dec 19, 2012 02:21
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Finally got the 6v USB power supply working for my Garmin on my 1955 BMW. I have a bunch of random heatsinks if you want. Lots of aluminum leftovers in my scrap pile from ripping apart computers and such. I also have a bunch of little switches, AA and AAA battery boxes and random wires and heatshrink from building electronic cigarettes. PM me what you need and I'll see what I can do. You pay shipping and it's yours. Merry Christmas.
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Dec 19, 2012 07:36
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Replaced the knackered radiator after my little lowside a few weeks ago and rode it. Having never done any maintenance on a bike other than cleaning it and lubing the chain I was surprised how easy it was to do everything. The hardest bit was getting the hose that connects to the radiator above the temperature sensor off. That required disconnecting it from the engine then kneeling on the bastard thing and yanking it off with both hands! God I didn't realise how much I was missing riding until I went out for a quick ride to make sure everything was working as intended. Turning around after half an hour to go to work required an extreme act of willpower  Now I just need to find somewhere that can respray the scraped up little radiator fairing and the jobs a good 'un!
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Dec 19, 2012 13:20
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In the future, you can jam a screwdriver into the space between the radiator inlet and the rubber hose and work it around and it'll be much easier to remove. The heat cycling and random crap causes stuff to get stuck to itself and its a huge pain to pull off unless you break it loose first
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Dec 19, 2012 17:18
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Yeah, once I'd got the radiator off I was able to twist it which broke whatever seal had formed. The more you know I guess Edit: I was worried about splitting the hose sticking a screwdriver in there, is this not an issue?
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Dec 19, 2012 19:55
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Yeah, once I'd got the radiator off I was able to twist it which broke whatever seal had formed. The more you know I guess Nope. They're made to handle pressure and hot, this being very strong.
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Dec 20, 2012 00:35
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Finally got the 6v USB power supply working for my Garmin on my 1955 BMW. Bungee cord a magnetic map holder thing to the front of it, pop it in that? I've got one as the base layer of my tank bag.
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Dec 20, 2012 11:23
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Z3n posted:In the future, you can jam a screwdriver into the space between the radiator inlet and the rubber hose and work it around and it'll be much easier to remove. The heat cycling and random crap causes stuff to get stuck to itself and its a huge pain to pull off unless you break it loose first Buy the proper tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-radiator-hose-pick-96572.html
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Dec 20, 2012 11:42
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Replaced the battery, and tested the charging system to find (thankfully!) no faults. It was dark and rainy, didn't see any sign of the rain stopping so I thought "gently caress it" and made myself a makeshift garage by putting my bike cover over the battery, then stretched over and under the laptop I was using as a light, and mutimeter. Was actually quite cozy crouching half my body in there in between connecting things up. Popped all the fairings on, and in the process managed to cover my laptop in WD-40 and dirty water, so typing this was a fucker!
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Dec 20, 2012 22:23
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Put a manual cam chain tensioner on the DRZ. I need to freshen up the brake fluid in a little bit.
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Dec 22, 2012 21:09
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Bit the bullet and winterized the hog and the max. The shadows have been winterized since November (and are both for sale in the spring). 27 degrees today complete with light snow, ice, and a shitload of salt on the roads. The 10 day doesn't look like much is going to change. It's time to accept that winter has finally arrived in Chicago. Riding back and forth to the gas station on both gave me plenty of 'wtf' looks from folks in their cars to last me until Feb/March. Winter project list includes racetech springs and emulators on the max, and maybe some SS lines for both... depends on if I'm feeling up to sitting in a 10 degree garage bleeding brake/clutch systems or get a space heater for xmas. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Dec 22, 2012 |
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Dec 22, 2012 21:39
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Moved from the TOR map that I copy/pasted 3rd-6th gear ignition maps over 1st and 2nd maps to a map someone had done with a Jardine slipon. Looks like there was a bunch more timing added when looking back and forth a bit. There is no more jerk on and off throttle, even at low revs. Still surging at 5-6k when steady to 5% added throttle while cruising but it pulls a lot smoother. Front end started lifting on me at the end of first once for the first time really on this bike. Much improved.
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Dec 23, 2012 22:33
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You should see about getting it mapped properly cause you're probably losing a shitload of midrange due to the fueling being off bad enough to surge at 5-6k. Isn't your bike -1/+2 as well? You should have serious difficulty keeping the front end down at anything over 8k if all is right with the fueling...
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Dec 23, 2012 23:20
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My bike is -2/+1. From reading around the 675 forums the surging is normal with these bikes. Yours really lifts off that easy? I mean it feels a little down on power compared to the 2011 I rode brand new out of the crate but it has 26k on it and it's the 06-08 motor... it's definitely not slow and seems to be about as quick as it SHOULD be but who knows. I need someone else to ride this thing. (Any AZ goons?)
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Dec 23, 2012 |
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Dec 23, 2012 23:21
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Managed to replace my intake seals without having to drop the engine, which is quite a feat. Still took about 8 hours but I can probably do it quicker now that I know the right order in and tools with which to tackle the job. Glad my dad had some whack curved wrenches lying around from his ironhead days though, and had to cut an allen key specifically advertised for this job in two for it to fit with everything in the frame. The new, non-Harley, gaskets are way thicker and actually have a lip that sticks under the manifold, but all in all the whole design is still pretty sketchy. Basically cylinders are free to move around relative to the manifold to some degree, the manifold only stays put that it can't go anywhere thanks it its Y shape. The seals are clamped to the intake ports and thick enough that they're supposed to seal even with the manifold cylinder bouncing around.  Tools used  Buttoned everything up and she fired right up again, I was a bit nervous as I'd also replaced the spark plugs and throttle cable and I don't like to do so many jobs without testing inbetween. Edit: this is what a Buell XB looks like with everything taken off the frame  Now I've never worked in an i4 bike or something with a larger V angle so maybe those are worse, but the huge beam frame these bikes have makes working on them pretty lovely. High Protein fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Dec 23, 2012 |
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Dec 23, 2012 23:53
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Replaced the cracked vacuum line running between the charcoal canister and the throttle bodies on my 620 Monster. I'd like to punch the engineer responsible for sizing the drat hose, it slides easily over the nipple on the canister but the barbed t-fitting at the throttle bodies was nearly as big as the OD of the tubing.
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Dec 23, 2012 23:59
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BlackMK4 posted:My bike is -2/+1. Eh, this is about how quick it goes through the gears wide open. https://vimeo.com/56216463
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Dec 24, 2012 00:14
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When I have a chance and it stops raining I'll get more accurate numbers for you That thing should want to stand on it's tail with -2/+1.
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Dec 24, 2012 06:40
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