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Would using a heavier oil be a good idea to calm down piston slap? Band-aid, I know.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:45
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| # ? May 21, 2024 22:35 |
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5w40 in my '97 sure made a difference to piston slap. Now it's just noticeable instead of terrifying.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:49
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If it still makes too drat much noise, replace a quart of oil with a quart of STP.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:52
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Amazingly enough, I managed to get the wheel stud in around the abs sensor without any real drama. I got it in within 5 minutes. It's about time something went my way with these repairs. Now if only dealerships actually stocked parts for the car instead of having to order them, I could have had the thing back together tonight. I went to the parts department last night with the intention of getting replacement bolts for the caliper brackets since they were rusted to hell and back (and I snapped one) and I also needed the adjustment spring for the parking brake. You think they had the stuff on hand? Of course not. They had two of the bolts and no springs. Boy would I be an annoyed customer if I had to leave my car sit at the dealership for half a week while they ordered in one tiny spring and one bolt. They don't expect to get the stuff in until Thursday afternoon which means Friday morning would be the earliest I could get it. Oh well, my new caliper bracket comes in tomorrow so I'll at least be able to reassemble the passenger side and put the winter wheels and tires on 3 out of 4 wheels. Then I should be able to finish the thing off Friday night or sat morning in about a half hour.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:58
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I don't think I've ever bought a bolt or piece of hardware that didn't have to get ordered. Anyone interested in a set of Bilstein struts for their GD? My friends at RCE are taking pre-orders. It'll take awhile and they are fairly expensive, so you need to really want them.
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Dec 19, 2012 07:24
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jamal posted:Anyone interested in a set of Bilstein struts for their GD? My friends at RCE are taking pre-orders. It'll take awhile and they are fairly expensive, so you need to really want them. Details, what springs do they work with etc pls.
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Dec 19, 2012 09:53
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jamal posted:I don't think I've ever bought a bolt or piece of hardware that didn't have to get ordered.  Just after I was asking about for struts on my LGT. oh well.
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Dec 19, 2012 14:01
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I did the timing belt today. I was a little nervous but it's actually pretty drat easy and I didn't run into any issues. I thought I did it wrong 3 times though after lining it up perfect since the lines on the belt would never line back up again after hand cranking it. Turns out that they shouldn't unless you rotate it 281 times or something.  So I basically lined up the marks 3 times in a row then took the belt off and redid it until it was perfect again. Then read that it won't line back up with the belt on the internet and felt pretty dumb. 
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Dec 19, 2012 21:53
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DreamOn13 posted:I did the timing belt today. I was a little nervous but it's actually pretty drat easy and I didn't run into any issues. I thought I did it wrong 3 times though after lining it up perfect since the lines on the belt would never line back up again after hand cranking it. Turns out that they shouldn't unless you rotate it 281 times or something. Noticed in the other thread that you did water pump and thermostat as well - what mileage are you at?
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Dec 19, 2012 22:14
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 I picked up a new-to-me Subaru about a month ago. '99 Legacy 30th Anniversary with a 5-speed and PhaseII EJ22. I put on a set of '05 Legacy GT wheels and had to do a brake job, timing belt service and valve adjustment right off the bat. It runs like a top now, and I'm loving being back in a wagon after 2 years of '06 Impreza sedan and '94 Turbo Legacy sedan as my successive daily drivers since my last wagon. In the background is my girlfriend's '98 Outback. Yeah, we like our Subarus. Hers has been around in the family for about 3 years now. I drove around and searched out some snow a couple days ago here in WA, I gotta say AWD is worth it every winter just for the all wheel drifting.  My old Subaru, an older and more lame Brighton with manual everything that didn't give me any trouble 'til it catastrophically lost a headgasket at 280k. It's still going now with a new shortblock and well on it's way to 350k in the hands of a friend of mine. 
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Dec 20, 2012 03:04
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The LGT wheels looks great on your Legacy. Tint the windows for maximum effect.
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Dec 20, 2012 04:08
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I always wanted a set of the 17" LGT wheels for my 98. Now I just want another 2nd gen, but in wagon form this time. Never sell that car 
chrisgt fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 04:36
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Here's my 98 with LGT wheels:  I like how they look but a lower offset, wider wheel fits better. Here's a 17x8 +45 RPF1: 
jamal fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 04:55
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As far as the Bilsteins go, they are only for the 02-07 Impreza sedan. RS, WRX, or STi. They are doing two orders, one for 5x100 and the other for 5x114 cars. The order doesn't go to Bilstein until there are 50 per bolt pattern. They're 1200 plus shipping for the pre-order and then 1400 after that. Not adjustable, inverted, and meant for RCE springs which are about 300 lb/in and an inch lower. I haven't even asked about ordering them yet, but if a couple people really want them I will ask what kind of pricing I get and may be able to put in my own order.
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Dec 20, 2012 05:07
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Splinter posted:The LGT wheels looks great on your Legacy. Tint the windows for maximum effect. chrisgt posted:I always wanted a set of the 17" LGT wheels for my 98. Now I just want another 2nd gen, but in wagon form this time. Never sell that car Yeah, 2nd gen wagons look hot. I've always liked them. The '99 30th Ann. is pretty much the best of the best, with the sunroof, antenna, nicer seats and power everything stock, as well as the PhaseII motor for the best power of the EJ22s. It's nearly got the same options as a GT wagon. My '96 had tinted windows, I would love to tint my new '99 too but it hasn't happened yet. One thing that I really liked on my old one was no roof rack. That's a pretty rare thing to see around here, and it really smooths the look a lot, and saves a bit of fuel on top of that. Thanks for the props!
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Dec 20, 2012 05:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:5w40 in my '97 sure made a difference to piston slap. Now it's just noticeable instead of terrifying. Alright, I'll change to 5w40 and see if it makes a difference, and I'll have a jug of STP on hand for next change if it doesn't help enough. Those LGT wheels look great, I like them better lighter on the white Legacy wagon. Dayum.
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Dec 20, 2012 05:38
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blk posted:Lots of rainfall, rarely below freezing (western Oregon). You'd most likely be okay with a good set of all-seasons like the Continental whatever it's called DWS, or the Bridgestone Potenza RE970as. I don't have experience with the RE970as personally but the RE960 was good and the 970 is the successor, and also has very high survey ratings on TireRack. It looks like the new hot poo poo and I would have put them on my brother's car except they were not in stock and he already was driving with a tire at about 5psi or something.  Only trouble I had was with some very deep snow at the top of a hill, I just put on chains although you are unlikely to come across that I think. Our winters are usually pretty mild in Seattle but we occasionally have those weird storms where everybody stays home for a week. Slow is Fast posted:http://www.cars101.com/ Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 05:52
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blk posted:Noticed in the other thread that you did water pump and thermostat as well - what mileage are you at? 105k.
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Dec 20, 2012 05:55
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jamal posted:As far as the Bilsteins go, they are only for the 02-07 Impreza sedan. RS, WRX, or STi. They are doing two orders, one for 5x100 and the other for 5x114 cars. The order doesn't go to Bilstein until there are 50 per bolt pattern. They're 1200 plus shipping for the pre-order and then 1400 after that. Not adjustable, inverted, and meant for RCE springs which are about 300 lb/in and an inch lower.  I was pretty interested in the Bilsteins because I'm all for quality, well engineered suspension pieces but I didn't realize they would be almost twice the price of KYB or Koni. Are they really worth it? Edit: Having never even so much as gone to an auto-x in my car answers my question, I think. Neptr fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 13:16
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I really like those stock 17s and think they'd look good on my legacy, but the offset of the stock 16s is all wrong and they're way sunk into the wheel well. Just wanna flush it up a bit without the hella part
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Dec 20, 2012 15:14
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Neptr posted:
Quick answer : Yes
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Dec 20, 2012 19:59
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I've got the GR version of the RCE/Bilsteins and they're definitely worth the money.
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Dec 20, 2012 22:36
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Neptr posted:
Long answer - Bilsteins are quality. They are also completely rebuildable so you can revalve them or even if you are skilled enough turn them into very good coilovers. They also invented half the poo poo you see in shock technology so they kinda know how poo poo works. Unlike most strut makes, Bilsteins really did test their concepts in racing first and are the best argument why you dont need coilovers. (Interted struts are often simply called Bilsteins because that's who made made their name first with them. They might have even invented the concept) Jamal - I'd be looking for one set of both kinds. But more towards April when I've banked enough to do it without worrying about eating. I got a loooooot of money to spend on a WRX shortly.....
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Dec 20, 2012 23:01
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God damnit now I'm trawling kijiji for 2nd gen legacy wagons. Other than the bumpers and ride height, are there any major differences between the regular legacys and outbacks? Outbacks seem to be way more common up here and I actually like them in the right colour.
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Dec 21, 2012 00:25
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Blaise posted:After literally a year and a half of troubleshooting, my 02 WRX is running great. What kind of hybrid ebc/mbc are you running? stock electric and a hallman mbc? I need to figure out how to get rid of my hilarious 10psi boost spike.
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Dec 21, 2012 01:17
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Looking forward to a little more tuning action to hit ~300whp
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Well I now know why the driver's side adjuster spring broke and it's the same reason why I'm having trouble reassembling the rear brakes. Corrosion has built up between the knuckle and the backing plate of the parking brake and pushed it out ever so slightly. Because of that, the adjustment spring came in contact with the abs tone ring and it killed it. I can't put the new spring in because it's hitting the tone ring. And now it's giving me trouble putting the rear rotor on as well since the inside lip is rubbing against the drum backing plate on the bottom. Since I don't think there's any way to fix this short of replacing the whole drat knuckle, I guess I'm going to have to grind down the parking brake backing plate on the bottom so the rotor doesn't rub. loving salt.
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Dec 21, 2012 07:49
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The only time I've ever seen the tone ring contact something else was because of a shot bearing. Might want to look into that first. Having the rotor rub on the back plate actually happens a lot. The nasioc thread title is "lets find a solution to this common problem." You might need to grind down the lip on the rotor a bit.
jamal fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Dec 21, 2012 |
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Dec 21, 2012 08:02
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jamal posted:The only time I've ever seen the tone ring contact something else was because of a shot bearing. Might want to look into that first. Having the rotor rub on the back plate actually happens a lot. The nasioc thread title is "lets find a solution to this common problem." You might need to grind down the lip on the rotor a bit. http://www.centricparts.com/files/technical%20guides/Rotor%20Rubbing%20Backing%20Plate.pdf This is pretty much precisely what is happening. Right under the adjuster it's making contact. And since the backing plate is lifting near the bottom it's moving all the e-brake hardware and it's JUUUUST enough for the adjuster spring there to just graze the tone ring because the clearance is so little. I don't think there is anything wrong with the wheel bearings (that was my first thought.) I've tried wiggling the hub both loaded and unloaded and I can observe no movement at all.
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Dec 21, 2012 08:13
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So what are the most sensible brake upgrade options for a daily driven 3rd gen WRX that only sees about a dozen or so socal track/autox days each year? Currently throwing down 313hp and 357tq - stage 2 protune, koni/RCE setup, beefy perrin sways and endlinks, and hawk hps pads.
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Dec 21, 2012 08:32
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McSpatula posted:So what are the most sensible brake upgrade options for a daily driven 3rd gen WRX that only sees about a dozen or so socal track/autox days each year? What percentage are track days and what percentage are auto-x days? Because if it is 11 track days and 1 auto-x day, I'd figure out what has the cheapest consumables. If it is 11 autocrosses and 1 track day, I'd find some slightly better pads. Note that auto-x requires no brake upgrades, and in fact, in classes whre it is allowed downgrades are what happen because ax barely stress brakes and weight is more important. But I'd get rid of the HPS pads. They pretty much suck at everything.
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Dec 21, 2012 08:35
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nm posted:What percentage are track days and what percentage are auto-x days? Because if it is 11 track days and 1 auto-x day, I'd figure out what has the cheapest consumables. If it is 11 autocrosses and 1 track day, I'd find some slightly better pads. It's almost an even split at this point, I prefer track time over autox though, so it'll probably mean less autox in the future. What pads do you suggest over the HPS'? I've heard they tend to have thermal / noise issues, but haven't encountered any myself.
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Dec 21, 2012 08:51
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bull3964 posted:http://www.centricparts.com/files/technical%20guides/Rotor%20Rubbing%20Backing%20Plate.pdf McSpatula posted:So what are the most sensible brake upgrade options for a daily driven 3rd gen WRX that only sees about a dozen or so socal track/autox days each year? Firstly like nm said ditch those pads. The Ferodo DS2500 is a pretty good pad that can handle some track use but you might be better off going to a real track pad. There are lots of them. However, the stock brakes are pretty small for track usage even with a good track pad. If you're willing to spend the money and have wheel clearance you might as well go straight to bigger brakes. The stoptech stuff is really good, reasonably priced (sort of- it's still like 2k for a front kit), and easy to get pads and replacement parts for. They'll run cooler under hard use which means pads, rotors, fluid, wheel bearings, ball joints, and tie rods all last longer plus you get better brake feel and don't have to worry about fade which makes it easier to drive. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Dec 21, 2012 |
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Dec 21, 2012 08:53
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McSpatula posted:It's almost an even split at this point, I prefer track time over autox though, so it'll probably mean less autox in the future. What pads do you suggest over the HPS'? I've heard they tend to have thermal / noise issues, but haven't encountered any myself.
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Dec 21, 2012 09:29
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Performance Brake Parts rotors and Hawk DTC60 pads is my first step. Hurled everything I could at them, stood up remarkably well to the abuse. Also good brake fluid and brake lines. If you can go bigger, do it tho - WRX's are definatly got some brake heat issues when you are hammering. Next year I'm going to Group N 6 spots.That or some other ridiculous Spec C RA-R set. Someone remind me why I have this OEM fetish again?
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Dec 21, 2012 10:10
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Don't worry CT, I'll have the slowest and most expensive Whiteline Wagon on the planet when finished. Whiteline: ALKs, front control arm bushings, out rigger bushings, GC rear diff bushings, front Com-C strut mounts Group-N: Transmission mount, engine mounts, pitch stop mount, and rear strut tops Then some Koni shocks, stock STi springs, and some subframe lockbolts. JDM 4pot fronts, 2pot rears, and stainless Stoptech hoses. I should be flat out through most corners not having any power at all.
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Dec 21, 2012 13:12
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Crustashio posted:God damnit now I'm trawling kijiji for 2nd gen legacy wagons. Subaru made a killing on that generation of Outback, it's always harder to find a regular Legacy wagon. The big things are: Two-tone Raised roof. You can see this in my picture if you compare the rooflines. Front bumper Subframe spacers and taller struts EJ25 engine instead of EJ22 for most. Less reliable (headgaskets) but more power. The only Outback with an EJ22 stock would be a '96 with manual transmission. Check out this site for more detailed information: http://www.cars101.com/outback.html http://www.cars101.com/legacy.html
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Dec 21, 2012 15:28
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Alphius posted:Subaru made a killing on that generation of Outback, it's always harder to find a regular Legacy wagon. Awesome, thanks. From the sounds of it they're basically the same mechanically except for the suspension. And I've heard that stock WRX springs will bolt up to lower it. Time to go check out a few that are for sale!
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Dec 21, 2012 20:28
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The brake feel on my car is terrible. (2006 Saab 9-2x Aero) It seems like I can push the brake about an inch or two before anything happens, so I'd like to remedy that. Also it has stupid slotted rotors and ? pads (red backing plate, so maybe ebc reds? Not sure, PO put them on) that are terrible and shake the steering wheel when braking so I'd like to replace those eventually. I'm thinking SS brake lines with some sort of coating over the stainless weave, blank rotors, and not sure on pads. It's just a daily driver and doesn't need to be anything crazy but I don't want the brakes to feel like poo poo. I came from a CTS-V and those brakes were badass. Or should I start by adjusting the pedal free play? Any decent pad recommendations? I saw you guys bashing HPS pads which is what would usually be my go to but I wouldn't mind good feel and less dust than what the HPS provide.
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Dec 22, 2012 15:04
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I finally did my plugs today, I used the ones called for in the owners manual. The drivers rear was pretty hairy but the car seems to run. When I got the air intake stuff off I noticed a bit of oil on the side of the engine.  Any ideas on what could cause this and how bad it may be?
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Dec 22, 2012 17:54
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| # ? May 21, 2024 22:35 |
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It's just leaking. Replace the valve cover gaskets, plug tube seals, and grommets. It also looks like you have a gasket around the top of that breather hose that needs to be replaced.
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Dec 22, 2012 18:18
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