|
Besides everything Foxy said, I definitely wouldn't get him neutered any time soon. He's a large breed dog and should be allowed to fully develop physically before getting his boys lopped off. Or you can always get him a vasectomy so he still has all his hormones but can't make babies (I think this is the route I'm gonna go with my GSD). Dogs develope weirdly when they're neutered young (both physically and emotionally) and with a breed as prone to structural problems as GSDs, it's really not a good idea. I don't know how much experience you've had around GSD puppies but he's going to become a bite-crazy little shark very, very soon. Don't be alarmed, don't freak out thinking it's aggression, and don't smack him/hold his mouth shut/flick his nose when he does it. It's completely normal for his breed and when he gets older he'll probably start jumping up and biting your arms when he's excited. Just put him in time out in the bathroom for a couple minutes until he calms down and he'll eventually figure out people don't wanna play if he bites them. Enjoy looking like an abuse victim for the next couple months!  And please, please read the training thread and don't do that dominance stuff with him. It's gonna mess him up real bad 
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 21:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 21:36 |
|
|
Triangulum posted:Dogs develope weirdly when they're neutered young (both physically and emotionally) and with a breed as prone to structural problems as GSDs, it's really not a good idea. Let's refrain from broad, non-specific statements like this, especially if you don't have the science to back it up. I've covered it in as much detail as is practical in the OP, including a link to an article on skeptvet.com ShadowStalker posted:Wife's biggest complaint is that the dog never will cuddle. Is this something he will grow out of? GSD's are not well-known for being affectionate or lapdogs. This also could be a result of breeding. We know nothing about the breeder, but the heritage you've described suggests that both parents were highly independent dogs, so the odds are against you. Time will tell, as Foxy suggested. quote:I also see that we probably got the puppy pack leader as you can tell he's a little alpha dog in the making. Flipping him on his back and placing a hand over his chest makes the dog scream bloody murder. It sounds like Im killing him. He also doesn't respond well to a loud low no, where every dog I've trained always has immediately recognized that this is not a good sound. He kinda just ignores it and goes on about his business. You need to spend more time reading the OP about how to find a trainer and training methodology. PetSmart would not be my first stop, although they can be okay in some cases. I also highly recommend Pat Miller's book as a starter.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 21:41
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Wife's biggest complaint is that the dog never will cuddle. We can and will run him ragged chasing a ball or playing with our Cocker Spaniel/Pekinese mix. You can put in on your belly to cuddle and he will whine and struggle until he can get away and then he will go lay down by himself and nap. She wants him to be more affectionate. Honestly, every dog either one of us has had was always willing to lay with us and take a nap. Is this something he will grow out of? You just took him from his mom and house and plopped him in a new scary place with strange people and now you are foribly trying to keep him captive in your arms even though he is scared. He is not going to be very cuddly until he feels completely safe and wants to cuddle, you can't force him to do it. It took my puppy many, many weeks before he wanted to cuddle, to be honest I was getting a little concerned by how long it had been with him still seeming a little scared of me, now he wants nothing more to lay on top of me and wedge his face under my arm or neck and sleep. Give it time.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 21:56
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:Let's refrain from broad, non-specific statements like this, especially if you don't have the science to back it up. I've covered it in as much detail as is practical in the OP, including a link to an article on skeptvet.com Ok I could have been a lot more specific with that, I'm sorry. Your link in the OP does have science backing up an increase in orthepedic diseases in breeds predisposed to them and large breeds as well as an increase in rear angulation in dogs neutered early. Increased risk for hip dysplasia in dogs neutered early is pretty well documented, as are changes in skeletal structure (for examnple, being more leggy than intact dogs and dogs neutered after sexual maturity), and decreased rate of growth plates closing. In a breed that's absolutely riddled with hip dysplasia and other orthepedic problems neutering young seems rather risky, especially if you don't know what the parents hips and elbows are like.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:07
|
|
|
Triangulum posted:Increased risk for hip dysplasia in dogs neutered early is pretty well documented No it isn't. There are only two studies, both published in the AVMA, but as stated, the actual cause of the increased risk is not clear. Per the article: quote:Hip dysplasia is a developmental abnormality of the hip joint that can result in arthritis and clinical discomfort. It is rare in small breeds, with rates of affected dogs less than 1%, but it can be seen in as many as 40%-75% of large breed dogs.[86-89] Hip dysplasia is estimated to lead to clinically significant arthritis is fewer than 5% of affected dogs, but there are many factors involved including breed, weight, and the degree of anatomic abnormality of the hip joint, which makes predicting the outcome for any individual difficult.[89] The incidence of hip dysplasia is most strongly associated with breed and family history.[86,90,91]. This is why I want to avoid these kinds of statements. Post the science and let it speak for itself. The real answer is that there have been some studies that suggest increased risk of hip dysplasia as a result of neutering -- at any stage of life, however that link is not clear. I have not seen it stated that neutering "early" increases those risks further than waiting until 6-12 months.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:23
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Wife's biggest complaint is that the dog never will cuddle. Duke is super cute. I have two GSDs but everyone else has answered your other questions/comments, but I can contribute to this though! My male pup was quite standoffish when he was little. At about 18 months his personality changed and now he is always seeking attention. Duke may or may not change, but we went from a little puppy who would lay as far away as he could in the same room, facing away from us deliberately, to a dog that will shove his head under your elbow so he gets hugs 
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:25
|
|
|
Three Olives posted:You just took him from his mom and house and plopped him in a new scary place with strange people and now you are foribly trying to keep him captive in your arms even though he is scared. He is not going to be very cuddly until he feels completely safe and wants to cuddle, you can't force him to do it. Yeah, that's what I told her. I've read the OP and ordered the recommended books. They should be here on Friday. We just had numerous dogs growing up, even other GSDs and they all would take naps on us as puppies. He has been getting a ton of exercise. We play with him as much as possible, until he gets tired and wants to take a nap. Since I work from home, we have multiple play sessions throughout the day. Plus our other dog is pretty much a 3.5 year old puppy who wants to continuosly play. So when not sleeping or in his crate, they are running around the house non-stop. We had to stop free feeding our other dog as we have the GSD on large-breed puppy food. Since, the rolling him on his back is no longer recommended. Is it still recommended to make the dog sit and enter the house only after we have entered the house?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:30
|
|
|
Regarding the training and Petsmart. I was planning on something similar that I did with my old Great Dane; Petsmart obedience class first for basics before moving onto a real trainer.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:34
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Is it still recommended to make the dog sit and enter the house only after we have entered the house? Not really. If you prefer just for the sake of manners/convenience, but its not going to make the dog respect you as its leader or anything. I don't let my dogs exit the house without my "ok" because I never want them rushing outside before I peek out and make sure there isn't a strange dog/cat/person out there. Plus I like to be in control at all times.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 22:57
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Is it still recommended to make the dog sit and enter the house only after we have entered the house? To add to what adventure in the sandbox said, having your dog enter after you isn't teaching him that you are alpha or whatever, but having him sit (or do another behavior) before going through doors, getting attention/pets, getting food, etc. will give him extra practice, show him that obeying is rewarding in a variety of contexts and help him realize that any time can be working time (and a chance for him to earn a reward!). For more information, google "Nothing in Life is Free".
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:10
|
|
|
Kiri koli posted:"Nothing in Life is Free". Yes this! For some reason I was totally focusing on the prior comments about being the alpha. Making a dog behave before it gets to do something fun is always a good idea. This will result in a dog that "respects" you because it is eager to obey and behave according to whatever rules you have set up. My dogs? Sit away from the door and await the "ok" before we go for a walk. Stay back when I am filling the food dish, await the "ok." Give the toy when I say "give" because this means we keep playing with the toy together!
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:27
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Regarding the training and Petsmart. I was planning on something similar that I did with my old Great Dane; Petsmart obedience class first for basics before moving onto a real trainer. Best advice is actually to find a good puppy kindergarten class ASAP. It is the most important class you can take with your dog, provided that they are focusing on socialization. Find trainers with the links in the OP. Some of the PetSmart puppy classes are good, some aren't, so they are not a guarantee. For the record, I wait for my dog to sit at all entrances, staircases and portals. It's especially good if your dog is a door dasher or if they pull on the leash. If you want to do this, practice going in or out of a door a few times and asking for a sit. Click and treat when it occurs. After doing this a few times (and assuming you've already done enough clicker training that the dog is clicker savvy), just wait for the sit with no cue from you, then click and treat. Eventually, the approach to a door becomes the cue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:49
|
|
|
You can sometimes have amazingly good luck if you live in/near a major city that has an SPCA or local humane society that has a training program. A lot of no-kill shelters also offer training for both adopted and non-adopted dogs, and mostly these programs are positive reinforcement-based. Dog daycares and boarding facilities can also offer puppy kindergarten classes. But regardless of where you go, be sure you're checking the guidelines in the OP for the class, and be sure to ask whether its positive reinforcement based. Avoid 'Bark Busters' and other 'We Fix Your Dog By Choking And/Or Yelling' places. Do you happen to know if the parents of Duke were health-tested for anything prior to breeding, and if so, what for? I know I already asked that, but it's worth your while for you to find out, if you don't know. If they weren't tested, it'd be a good idea to take Duke in to the vet regularly as he grows up into a 1-3yr old dog and have his hips/elbows x-rayed to catch any signs of dysplasia before it has a chance to really degenerate. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Dec 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2012 23:59
|
|
|
Is x-raying before one year old recommended/useful? I know Vecna's mom's side has good hips and elbows but his dad's hip/elbow history is unknown. I haven't had him x-rayed yet because I was under the impression that it's not terribly useful prior to about 1 year old but if that's not the case, I'll get him x-rayed when he goes in for his next round of shots.MrFurious posted:No it isn't. There are only two studies, both published in the AVMA, but as stated, the actual cause of the increased risk is not clear. Fair enough.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:16
|
|
|
No that was confusing, my bad. I meant as he's maturing from 1-3 years, since that's usually when it shows up. Although getting him in after six months probably won't hurt.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:18
|
|
|
Ok cool I'll probably get him x-rayed before we head back to the US just for shits and giggles and because our vet here is like a fifth the price of my vet back in the US (and I am so goddamn paranoid about his stupid hips and legs  )
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:40
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:Best advice is actually to find a good puppy kindergarten class ASAP. It is the most important class you can take with your dog, provided that they are focusing on socialization. Find trainers with the links in the OP. Some of the PetSmart puppy classes are good, some aren't, so they are not a guarantee. Thanks, I found a certified CPDT-KA Trainer at http://www.k9obedienceclub.org/training.html Going to sign Duke up for the Puppy K class and follow up with the Puppy Star class.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:53
|
|
|
Triangulum posted:Is x-raying before one year old recommended/useful? I know Vecna's mom's side has good hips and elbows but his dad's hip/elbow history is unknown. I haven't had him x-rayed yet because I was under the impression that it's not terribly useful prior to about 1 year old but if that's not the case, I'll get him x-rayed when he goes in for his next round of shots. It depends on the x-ray. PennHIP can be done starting at 4 months of age (certain vets are certified to do these x-rays), but OFA x-rays are better at 2 years of age.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 00:56
|
|
|
I'm in Germany, they don't do OFA or PennHIP here. I actually don't know what the HD x-rays are called in Germany, I just know how to read the SV ratings for German Shepherds. I'll have my husband talk to our vet about it when we go in next week for Vecna's next round of shots.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 01:02
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Thanks, I found a certified CPDT-KA Trainer at http://www.k9obedienceclub.org/training.html Going to sign Duke up for the Puppy K class and follow up with the Puppy Star class. That's a great first step. Good work!
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 01:06
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Thanks, I found a certified CPDT-KA Trainer at http://www.k9obedienceclub.org/training.html Going to sign Duke up for the Puppy K class and follow up with the Puppy Star class. Bravo. This can be a hostile forum, good for you for keeping an open mind and doing your research. Interested to see how the classes go for you. They look fine, although I'm a little surprised they're going to work on recalls in Puppy K - that's relatively advanced.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 04:21
|
|
|
Triangulum posted:I'll get him x-rayed when he goes in for his next round of shots.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 04:27
|
|
|
Triangulum posted:I'm in Germany, they don't do OFA or PennHIP here. I actually don't know what the HD x-rays are called in Germany, I just know how to read the SV ratings for German Shepherds. I'll have my husband talk to our vet about it when we go in next week for Vecna's next round of shots. As soon as I have the money, I'm getting Sukka X-rayed. I plan on getting him PennHip x-rayed and at the same time, I'll get all that Riiseli suggested above, mostly to rule out any sign of OCD.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 11:51
|
|
|
Just before Christmas, we added a new dog to our family. He's a cute little male corgi/chihuahua mix. We've never had a male dog before, so he's come with a whole new bag of issues. Little background- my wife is a vet tech, and he was dropped off at a shelter that works closely with her clinic. We got him because they came in with one of those "we're over capacity, so if he isn't adopted today we'll have to put him down" sob stories. He seems to be over a year old, 16ish pounds, cute and fox-like, well tempered, ZERO interest in toys (frustrating), fine being in his kennel, did not come with a name (we've been calling him Figaro), and he was not neutered. Day 1, he made it his mission to mark everything in the house. He got fixed on Day 2, and that stopped almost immediately, thank God. He gets along with our dog really well, and mainly we wanted him so she would have a playmate. She's a lab/hound mix, around 60 pounds, and they run and play and snuggle and have a great time. Here's the biggest problem- he has potty issues. If we take him out alone (assuming you can get a leash on him- he seems to think leashing him is a game and goes into play mode), IF he does anything at all, he'll mark the same lonely bush in our front yard. And then he'll walk over and sit by your feet, looking up at you smiling, just happy to be alive. Then, 15 minutes later when you're sick of circling the yard and you've decided he's not going to do anything, he'll wander JUST out of your sight and pee and poop on the floor. If we take him out with the other dog, he'll wait until she does her business (whatever that may be) and he'll run and mark her pee/poop in the yard. Then, he MIGHT do something of his own, but it's no guarantee. What seemed to work was taking out treats for both dogs, and when our old dog does what she's supposed to do, treating her so he sees how he can get rewarded. This worked for a couple days. On days like today, where it's 38 degrees and raining.. no dice. He's not a fan of the rain. He darted out to mark our old dog's pee when she went, then ran right back up to the door to wait to go inside. I couldn't physically put him in the yard, he'd freak out and start trying to bite his leash. So, I took them inside, unleashed them, poured myself a cup of coffee, and went into the living room, and in the span of the 2-3 minutes that took, he'd pooped in the living room, again in the hall, and left a big pool of pee beside it.. Awesome. How do we even begin to curb this? Our old dog was our first, but she came potty-trained. We're trying to go by the book, praising him like he just cured cancer when he does what he's supposed to, but we can't catch him in the act in the house to scold him when he does bad.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 14:16
|
|
|
TShields posted:How do we even begin to curb this? Our old dog was our first, but she came potty-trained. We're trying to go by the book, praising him like he just cured cancer when he does what he's supposed to, but we can't catch him in the act in the house to scold him when he does bad. Also if the weather really bothers him, get him a (rain)coat and get him used to it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 14:36
|
|
|
TShields posted:What seemed to work was taking out treats for both dogs, and when our old dog does what she's supposed to do, treating her so he sees how he can get rewarded. Placebo effect. There is little to no evidence that dogs can learn via example, so it's very unlikely this was happening. quote:How do we even begin to curb this? Our old dog was our first, but she came potty-trained. We're trying to go by the book, praising him like he just cured cancer when he does what he's supposed to, but we can't catch him in the act in the house to scold him when he does bad. You need to read the housetraining guide in the OP again, because there is no reason to scold for an accident - ever. The appropriate response is to catch them in the act and immediately put them in the appropriate place for them to eliminate with as little fuss as possible. In addition to that, the above advice is good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 17:56
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:Placebo effect. There is little to no evidence that dogs can learn via example, so it's very unlikely this was happening. I always peed outside with my lab when he was learning, can't hurt.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 01:47
|
|
|
Whats a good tug rope? Bruce LOVES to play tug-of-war, but whenever he 'wins' he rips the rope to shreds.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 02:50
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:Placebo effect. There is little to no evidence that dogs can learn via example, so it's very unlikely this was happening. Really? Holy crap. I feel like Shanti definitely picked up a ton of behaviors from Aussie. Interesting to know that he very likely did not pick them up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 04:07
|
|
|
BigDave posted:Whats a good tug rope? Bruce LOVES to play tug-of-war, but whenever he 'wins' he rips the rope to shreds. You could try the kong tug thing: http://www.kongcompany.com/products/for-dogs/rubber-toys/interactive-rubber-toys/tug/ My dog got one as a gift for PISS and she really likes it. Up 'til now I was really only getting good tugging on ropes. But tug toys should be special and not left out if you're not directly playing with them with your dog. Less unsupervised time with the toy should increase its life.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 05:55
|
|
|
If you can find a braided fleece or rope like this, they're really great. Most dogs like to grab them, they're soft on their teeth and they give quite well when the dog is tugging, so it's easier on their bodies (and yours). But yeah. Teach your dog to bring the toy back for more tugging and don't let him shred it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 11:29
|
|
|
You can also just pick up a yard or two of fleece for a couple bucks and make your own tugs. It's super easy and costs next to nothing to make two or three. Here are instructions how to make the kind Rixatrix linked or you can just use a traditional braid, though it won't be as sturdy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 12:19
|
|
|
Triangulum posted:You can also just pick up a yard or two of fleece for a couple bucks and make your own tugs. It's super easy and costs next to nothing to make two or three. Here are instructions how to make the kind Rixatrix linked or you can just use a traditional braid, though it won't be as sturdy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 12:45
|
|
|
Ikantski posted:I always peed outside with my lab when he was learning, can't hurt. Except that it can get you arrested for indecent exposure and even put on the sex offender list. v  v
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 19:25
|
|
|
Orbit's favorite tug toy is a big red kong with blue fabric through it and a handle on one side and dangly strips on the other- like a wubba but with a fabric handle. He can grab hold of the plastic kong to tug and I can grab the fabric part, and it throws really well for fetch/tug which is his favorite game. edit: here ya go. Kong Tails http://www.amazon.com/Kong-KT1-Tails-Large-Dog/dp/B005F5D2AA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1356981427&sr=1-1&keywords=kong+tails Plus_Infinity fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Dec 31, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 15:05
|
|
|
I need to start a blog about this dog and list out all the things that have caused him to piss on the floor. So far we have: vacuum cleaner turning on in a different room, other dog barking beside him because the doorbell rang, loud toilet flushing, and a cat leaping out from behind a corner in front of him..
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 19:59
|
|
|
dog's first snow, he loves it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 00:01
|
|
|
Question for the thread: does anyone have any experience with Idiopathic Vestibular Disease? Our dog Seamus (Cavador, 12 months old) was whimpering in the back yard yesterday and when we let him in he was basically acting drunk, and wouldn't sit or lie down. He was wandering all over the place, his head was bobbing up and down as he walked (which is really OOC for a Labrador breed of any sort - they normally have very still heads when walking) and trying to walk up or down our back step has been resulting in falling over forwards. He's also been drooling more than normal. To head off people telling me to take him to the vet: we already did. The vet checked him out yesterday to make sure he hadn't injured himself; he sleeps on top of his kennel and we were worried he had fallen off. The vet mentioned it might be IVD in passing but the only way to know that for sure is if it goes away after a few days. They were incredibly busy down there, it being new year's eve and them only working a half day. He *seems* better today, walking around a but faster and being a lot less reluctant to lying down, but he's still incredibly morose. He's really only a puppy and normally really gung ho about being with us, chasing our cats and generally galomphing around the place. What sort of time frame should we be concerned about if the symptoms stick around? He's completely healthy otherwise, current on all shots and treatments. Picture because people might like to see him: Boxing Day at my in-law's place, Seamus generally being awesome sitting on a leather recliner watching the cricket with me. Wife and in-law's dog Teddy in background. 
Memento fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jan 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 06:44
|
|
|
Post video please. It would actually be pretty abnormal for a 1 year old dog to get what we call idiopathic peripheral vestibular disease.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 11:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 21:36 |
|
|
Hi, I have a few questions about possibly adopting a dog. I would love to have a buddy, but I also want to make the right decision and not get a dog just for me. My situation is as follows: - I live alone. - Live in an appartement on the 10th floor (there are elevators). - I work full-time (leave the house at 08:10 and return at 17:15). The big thing is the full-time job, but i live within walking distance from work. So the dog would be alone for 9 hours. I have discussed with work if i could get a 90 minute lunch break, so i can go home and walk the dog for an hour. So the day will be split like this: From 08:10 to 12:15 the dog would alone. From 12:15 to 13:15 there would be an hour walk. Then alone again from 13:15 to 18:15. The extra hour is to compensate for the longer lunch. For daily walks i have this plan: 45 min walk before leaving for work. The 1 hour walk during lunch. 30 min walk after returning from work. And a 60/90 min walk in the evening. Those are from monday to friday. In the weekends we could go to the forest or beach. A puppy is off course out of the question, i have been looking a nearby shelters and plan to get some information in the coming weeks. I'm just worried that the alone time would be to much. How do other people with full-time jobs handle this?
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 12:32
|
|
