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If Subaru is installing puddle lights, they should be under the engine bay of N/A models. 
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Jan 4, 2013 00:14
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The day after I order a new outback too. 
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Jan 4, 2013 03:05
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Protip. If you are troubleshooting whether or not you've plugged a pinhole leak in your coolant filler neck, it is counterproductive to drive off without securing the radiator cap.
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Jan 4, 2013 05:14
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2000 OBW 5MT getting new tires soon, and everything on the subaruoutback.org forum has recommended Yokohama Geolandars for my next tire choice, as I do a lot of fire road driving and exploration off the pavement in the desert. As the stock tire size on my car is 225/60/R16, and the geolandars are not consistently made in that size, I need to change sizes. Basically, should I go 215/65/16 or 235/60/16? The 235s are about $13 more per tire which is not that big a difference. Both tires give me a little more sidewall height than the current tire, which translates to slightly higher ground clearance, and I know my speedo will be off by 1.4-1.8% depending on which tire size I choose. Are there clearance issues with the 235 I'm just waiting to discover? Should I go for the wider or narrower? Is there a better offroad tire I can mount that will still give good highway performance? The concensus of the subaru outback forums is the general grabbers are the only thing better that's made in the sizes I need.
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Jan 4, 2013 10:08
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I've been skimming over this thread for a while, so I'll just come out with it. I have my heart set on a WRX STI. Sometime this year, I plan on purchasing one, most likely new. I'm a tad scared to get something like that used since they tend to get beat on pretty hard. I could care less about the higher end trim packages (like limited) however, at least the Subaru dealership here doesn't generally stock them, and when they do it's the all the fruit variety. I just want the horsepower and handling. I'd actually prefer the 5 door over the sedan, but I noticed they list for 2 grand more. There's so much talk of how ugly they are, I wonder if dealers have more trouble moving a 5 door, thus making for wiggle room on price. Thoughts? Basically, I'm curious if a STI is something that dealers generally get very small quantities of to sell for a big margin, then dump off cheap(er) at the end of the year if it doesn't move. In a nutshell, do you get a bit of negotiating room on one or not. How head and shoulders is the STI over a plain WRX at 10+ grand less? I see this one hotly contested on several boards. As I see it, the difference is 40 HP, a better gearbox, better suspension, SiDrive, Center Diff controls, and upgraded looks. I'm still turning it over in my head the justification for that price difference. Does Subaru do 0% financing deals? If so, will they do it on a STI? The Nissan I have now is 0% and it's a nice feeling seeing my principle go down every month by the exact amount of the payment. TIA
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Jan 4, 2013 16:01
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Farking Bastage posted:How head and shoulders is the STI over a plain WRX at 10+ grand less? I see this one hotly contested on several boards. As I see it, the difference is 40 HP, a better gearbox, better suspension, SiDrive, Center Diff controls, and upgraded looks. I'm still turning it over in my head the justification for that price difference. Get a tune too. At one point they did 0% financing here but only on the Tribeca... and that turd still didn't move. I'm not sure what rate it is on the STI but you could probably ask the dealer.
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Jan 4, 2013 16:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's not that big of a difference if you figure out how much it'd cost to swap the gearbox (and diffs) in later. I would buy the STI if you can manage it. On the flipside, unless you are planning on tracking the car or heavily modifying it, I honestly can't see the point in the STI for the most part anymore. The 6 speed is really nice and amazing, but you aren't going to break the current 5 speed driving it on the street at stock power levels. You just aren't. Likewise, the fancier diffs don't make any difference on the street either. Ditto for the brakes and upgraded wheel hubs. These aren't things that need upgraded over the regular WRX for street driving. It may have 40 more HP (on paper anyways), but the STI isn't any quicker to 60mph due to shorter gearing and needing an extra shift to get there. That 40 hp also seems to get you a more fragile factory tune that (as stated) you'll probably want to replace with a professional tune right off the bat. I went back and forth myself on this whole thing when I was shopping for my 2011 and I just couldn't justify the extra for the STI. As a base platform to make a track monster, it's absolutely worth the extra cost due to the upgraded factory equipment. However, as a daily driver turned weekend canyon carver, I would save the $10k and use it for gas to drive more.
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Jan 4, 2013 17:00
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bull3964 posted:On the flipside, unless you are planning on tracking the car or heavily modifying it, I honestly can't see the point in the STI for the most part anymore. OR just the simple Stage 2 parts and tune instead of gas.
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Jan 4, 2013 17:03
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Farking Bastage posted:Does Subaru do 0% financing deals? If so, will they do it on a STI? The Nissan I have now is 0% and it's a nice feeling seeing my principle go down every month by the exact amount of the payment. https://www.truecar.com will help you with figuring out more accurate negotiating room numbers. You should also look into bank financing instead of dealer financing because this gives you more negotiating power at the dealership and interest rates are really low right now (resulting in you actually paying less over the life of the loan vs. a dealer 0%).
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Jan 4, 2013 20:15
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Farking Bastage posted:
Well the simple answer is there's not 10 grand difference and and given the difference is even bigger in Aust it becomes an easy question. 40hp? Pffft, tune and exhuast and you are safer and more powerful. Gearbox I'll give it but for street driving or even some track time the stock 5 speed these days is pretty decent. SiDrive is a load of poo poo, DCCD is great but again no real biggie for a road car and yu can do the STI body kit for the stock WRX with a dealer option. So for road and light track work, WRX for sure. Pocket the difference or spend 3K in mods, be faster and still have 7K quote:As a base platform to make a track monster, it's absolutely worth the extra cost due to the upgraded factory equipment Actually I'd dispute that - the STI is best at class racing where you cant change much. A lot of the "fast" bits need to be replaced anyway for really going quick (diffs, brakes those are not items that work that well on a track), the engines are pretty much the same so that's a wash - the hubs and gearbox from the STI are the sole things you would have to put on for a track monster WRX. There's also less crap to remove. So I'd save the difference + gearbox / hub swap and end up in Aust a cool 15K to blow on the mods EDIT : ALL that said, the STI is the best car Subaru does off the lot and thence has it's "cool" factor that is worth to some people the price difference alone - the WRX might be close but it's no STI. If you want the STI, dont worry about this discussion and buy it. You still get a hell of a car you will love to bits and that in the end is the most important thing. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Jan 4, 2013 |
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Jan 4, 2013 23:09
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Cat Terrist posted:Well the simple answer is there's not 10 grand difference and and given the difference is even bigger in Aust it becomes an easy question. 40hp? Pffft, tune and exhuast and you are safer and more powerful. Gearbox I'll give it but for street driving or even some track time the stock 5 speed these days is pretty decent. SiDrive is a load of poo poo, DCCD is great but again no real biggie for a road car and yu can do the STI body kit for the stock WRX with a dealer option. I really don't think a WRX with 3k in mods will beat a stock STi on a road course. Down pipe, access port, tune and you are 1500 minimum if you want to not buy poo poo. Bigger sways and springs is the rest. Don't forget brakes either. I think you are pretty far off on this one. Sure, the difference isn't as pronounced at it used to be, but ... Plus, to get a WRX to STi levels your warranty on the motor, tranny, brakes, and multiple suspension parts will be gone. To the original question: I labored over the same issue and ended up in an STi. Most days I think a WRX would have fit the bill (commuting). Its pretty soft though, and the tranny feels like a hookers vagina. But, the stock tune is smoother and imo much better for daily driving due to the higher off boost compression. On the days where there are five inches of snow on the winding, two uphill lanes mountain pass up to winter park and I am sliding sideways with traction control disabled before I hit the gas and feel the mechanical diffs working their voodoo to pull me out of it, it is clear to me that I made the best choice for me. Plus, the STi is one of the last flagship "sports" cars with a proper gearbox. I going to enjoy it before the government tells me that in addition to having to buy a backup camera, I have to have a CVT in all my cars because driving is a distraction from driving. (I feel the rashness of cat terrist rubbing off a little). As seat said, the STi is better, there really isn't any argument there. Is it 8 or 10 thousand dollars better? The advice given to me by this crowd was that only I could decide, and I think that's good advice. I've heard a lot of "I should have bought the STi," but I haven't ever heard "I should have bought the WRX." Edited for cat terrist not cat terrorist  . Sorry if you read that before this.
THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jan 5, 2013 |
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Jan 5, 2013 01:41
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I really don't think a WRX with 3k in mods will be a stock STi on a road course. Down pipe, access port, tune and you are 1500 minimum if you want to not buy poo poo. Bigger sways and springs is the rest. Don't forget brakes either. I think you are pretty far off on this one. It's been done (MY11 hatch, reflash and exhaust, springs / shocks, enough brake changes to not have the brakes vanish after one lap and he's lapping .3 faster than a stock STI) - and anyway I've always insisted the stock WRX is quicker than what most people realise (and spent an inordinate amount of time chasing to boot). You do need to do your research to make sure you get bang for buck, that be true you cant just throw on Ebay poo poo and expect it to work.
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Jan 5, 2013 02:03
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I appreciate it guys. Fact of the matter is, I wanted a turbo AWD car with enough interior room to take a short trip with. I currently have a V8 Lincoln LS (280 HP, RWD, 3800 lbs, ~ low 15 Quarter, 5sp Auto+lovely autostick ). A modern WRX will run circles around that, have similar room, and be a shitload more fun to drive, not to mention handle a hell of a lot better, and be a blast to drive. I don't have to worry with snow down here in N-FL, but, the pavement here has oyster shell aggregate and SUCKS in rain. Did the budget thing with my wife, and this June I will be taking delivery of a 5 door WRX. I'll post pics when it happens. Thanks You guys rock.
Farking Bastage fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jan 5, 2013 |
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Jan 5, 2013 02:21
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Paging jamal and anyone else that in the know. I'm back with more motor questions. I have just about everything to put my 2.6l together for the sti but I am wanting to know from people who really use there motors what clearance I should be shooting for on this motor. Piston to wall, mains, and rods. I plan on beating this on tracks around the southwest, and some autocross. I can't find a good answer on nasioc as most people are all trade secret on me but won't rebuild my motor since I didn't buy everything new from them and start from scratch. What I have is a darton sleeved 2.6l block that had a rod bearing go out, but plan on re-using the: Cp 102mm pistons Manley turbo tuff rods (no signs of heat damage but will get checked) Arp case bolts New parts I have: Manley billet crank Arp ca625+ head studs Cometic 103mm head gaskets King xp std and stdx rod and main bearings Set of worked heads porting, big valves, big cams, springs and such. I know I still need and am open to suggestion on these items Oil pump (11mm) Waterpump Timing belt kit (gates Kevlar) Gasket sealer Gasket kit Piston rings (cp doesn't know which ones so I have to measure them) New oil pan and pickup tube (killer b?) Aluminum radiator and expansion tank AOS Oil cooler setup Anything I am missing to put this together other than the cam gears off my old motor? Oh and Jamal take all my money!
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Jan 5, 2013 13:24
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The transmission in my outback went from bad to somewhat hosed today :| The 3rd gear syncho has been crunchy for the few months I've owned it, like really grindy shifting into third. But today I was shifting into 3rd CAREFULLY and GRIIIIIIIIND BANG BANG CRUNCH. And it went into third. I looked down, and the speedo is dead  Since 3rd is right next to the plastic gear, I can only assume it spat out a dog or something into the gear and borked it. Now it's stuck in limp mode. How boring....
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Jan 5, 2013 17:31
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I'm about to go look at a 2005 Baja turbo manual with around 70k on it. Anything I should look out for?
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Jan 5, 2013 18:40
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chrith posted:I'm about to go look at a 2005 Baja turbo manual with around 70k on it. Anything I should look out for? Just take lots of pictures so you can show us. Well, me really.
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Jan 5, 2013 18:48
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Pictures... Lots.
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Jan 5, 2013 20:22
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I should have called ahead they ended up putting it to auction. These cars do not exist, especially in florida. I was nursing a semi the whole way there. Should have called ahead. They do have a 2006 2.5 gt for 5grand though and it comes complete with 180k on the clock. I would be a complete moran for buying this right? Right....
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Jan 5, 2013 23:38
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chrith posted:I should have called ahead they ended up putting it to auction. These cars do not exist, especially in florida. I was nursing a semi the whole way there. Should have called ahead. They do have a 2006 2.5 gt for 5grand though and it comes complete with 180k on the clock. I would be a complete moran for buying this right? Right.... Manual? If so buy it and ship it to me.
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Jan 6, 2013 00:33
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Auto Monday though i'm headed back to pick this up. It will replace my current 98 outback. So excited for lesmobile 2.0
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Jan 6, 2013 03:00
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Holdbrooks posted:Paging jamal and anyone else that in the know. I'm back with more motor questions. I have just about everything to put my 2.6l together for the sti but I am wanting to know from people who really use there motors what clearance I should be shooting for on this motor. Piston to wall, mains, and rods. I plan on beating this on tracks around the southwest, and some autocross. I can't find a good answer on nasioc as most people are all trade secret on me but won't rebuild my motor since I didn't buy everything new from them and start from scratch. Do you have someone to put the short block together or are you doing it yourself? The big things you'll need are a bore gauge and a couple of micrometer. Since you have sleeves and case bolts you'll need the mains line honed. For bearing clearances the important thing is having the clearances actually be what you want and consistent. Generally stock specs work for the mains because that will make sure the rod bearings get good pressure. Then, depending on the oil pump and revs you would size the rods. I'm guessing 8krpm is about all you're going for so I'd think the 11mm pump with an extra thousandth is going to work out about right. For ring gaps, go by what the piston or ring mfg recommends. You could go with total seal or what CP sends you. For the waterpump the OEM cast impeller one works pretty good but top speed and crawford have their own. top speed says they have their own casting and change the clearance, I'm not sure what crawford does but they've never refuted anyone who's claimed it's just a stock pump painted black. Everything else on there looks good. Ditch the stock water-oil cooler while you're putting things together (you can get a blank plug for the bottom of the block). The only thing I would add is an accusump. The killer B pan is great but if you're going to be tracking a lot the extra safety factor is a good idea.
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Jan 6, 2013 03:46
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jamal posted:Do you have someone to put the short block together or are you doing it yourself? The big things you'll need are a bore gauge and a couple of micrometer. I will be building it myself, I have done a few supra motors before. I am going to get the block line honed and shuffle pinned. I'm on the fence about having them oring the sleeves too. Can you get any of the stuff I still need, I would rather spend my money with you than some random Internet place. I am looking to get this motor done an the next few weeks and I am about ready to order some of the suspension stuff we talked about earlier as well. Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Jan 6, 2013 |
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Jan 6, 2013 07:31
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Every built motor I've seen with a 11mm oil pump just pushes oil straight out of the crankcase and into the catch can when you give it some gas down low, don't know that its really needed?
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Jan 6, 2013 09:12
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Playing what's that noise, and failing miserably  . car info: 08 WRX - vf52 swap, stage 2 with supporting mods (also catless), spearco TMIC, stock bpv, and a protune It just started chirping on the way home tonight, both at idle, and cruising in gear (more like a slight whine while cruising), but I'm pretty sure it doesn't do it when the clutch is disengaged. What should I be checking? Leaks, belts, am I missing something completely obvious? Here's a short video of the noise at idle(warmed up, a/c off): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg9_uStIZ3c
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Jan 6, 2013 09:41
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My understanding is that Holdbrooks is building a pretty high power, high revving road race car. So in that case he's going to need a little extra pump and can deal with some oil in the catch can. When I was doing the time attack thing we ran a shimmed 12mm pump and the overflow from the air-oil separator can stayed mostly empty. As far as o-rings go I like them. It's what the WRC cars do (although their setup is a little fancier than a wire ring), and those cars see ridiculous boost levels and cylinder pressures. And yes, I should be able to get ahold of most of this stuff. I'll figure it out and send you an email. jamal fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Jan 6, 2013 |
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Jan 6, 2013 10:08
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McSpatula posted:Playing what's that noise, and failing miserably so if you push in the clutch a little the sound goes away? My throwout bearing makes a similar sound sometimes even after I've replaced it twice and gotten one of those sleeve kits. The problem is that the bearing just sits there next to the spinning pressure plate so it tends to squeak. or It's either that Or it could be a timing belt pulley. How many miles?
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Jan 6, 2013 10:12
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jamal posted:so if you push in the clutch a little the sound goes away? My throwout bearing makes a similar sound sometimes even after I've replaced it twice and gotten one of those sleeve kits. The problem is that the bearing just sits there next to the spinning pressure plate so it tends to squeak. or It's either that Or it could be a timing belt pulley. How many miles? Yea, it goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed in. It's a hair under 25k.
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Jan 6, 2013 10:19
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jamal posted:My understanding is that Holdbrooks is building a pretty high power, high revving road race car. So in that case he's going to need a little extra pump and can deal with some oil in the catch can. When I was doing the time attack thing we ran a shimmed 12mm pump and the overflow from the air-oil separator can stayed mostly empty. Correct, I will be maxing out the current rotated 6262 on e85 or race gas so 600-650awhp. I don't plan on driving on the street much. And I want to be sure it lives at sustained high rpm use on the track. And if you don have my email handy you can use my username at that google mail.
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Jan 6, 2013 11:55
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I installed Rally Armor mud flaps that I got for Christmas. They're probably overpriced. Also, the instructions don't say so, but I found it easier to remove the rear wheels to install the rear flaps. Bonus - I am wearing flannel (not intended for this thread) in the reflection in the bumper.
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Jan 6, 2013 20:49
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McSpatula posted:Yea, it goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed in. It's a hair under 25k. Definitely a throwout bearing, had that exact same thing happen twice. I just let it squeak until the clutch needed replacement.
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Jan 6, 2013 22:28
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FogHelmut posted:I installed Rally Armor mud flaps that I got for Christmas. They're probably overpriced. Also, the instructions don't say so, but I found it easier to remove the rear wheels to install the rear flaps. edit: Also I may remove my rear wheels for that now, at least I'll keep it in mind.
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Jan 7, 2013 01:01
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Totally TWISTED posted:Nice I just ordered some last night with Christmas money so I can go bombing down gravel roads (my driveway). I was wanting DRT Component flaps which I think are cheaper but they still haven't made them for the '12 Impreza and I got tired of waiting. If you have a really stubby screwdriver it can be done, but there really isn't much clearance to get the screws in the rear.
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Jan 7, 2013 01:12
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FogHelmut posted:If you have a really stubby screwdriver it can be done, but there really isn't much clearance to get the screws in the rear. Ah. This might make my ratchet + screwdriver attachments (I think I have this) useful.
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Jan 7, 2013 01:36
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I have RA mudflaps on my 09 and I didn't bother to remove the rear wheels...it was an enormous pain in the rear end. Definitely remove the wheels. I have an angled screwdriver that did wonders for that part of it, but drilling the holes was nightmarish.
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Jan 7, 2013 05:24
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Sudo Echo posted:Definitely a throwout bearing, had that exact same thing happen twice. I just let it squeak until the clutch needed replacement. Don't do that. I've seen plenty that start to squeak and then soon they seize/explode and destroy the snout on the gearbox.
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Jan 7, 2013 08:30
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FogHelmut posted:If you have a really stubby screwdriver it can be done, but there really isn't much clearance to get the screws in the rear. They at least used to come with a short screw driver.
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Jan 7, 2013 08:35
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ChunksNensja posted:Don't do that. I've seen plenty that start to squeak and then soon they seize/explode and destroy the snout on the gearbox. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aEuAK8bsQg
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Jan 7, 2013 16:08
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Amandyke posted:When was the last time you changed out the transmission oil? Follow-up to this: I had the diff oil changed and the grinding in 5th didn't improve, and 4th started shifting clunky. Basically I'm at the position where it's going to be warranty work. Before I make a bet that the synchros are going out (i.e. if they pull apart the transmission and find there's nothing wrong with it, I eat the cost), is there anything else I can look at? Clutch, shift linkage, something else?
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Jan 7, 2013 20:27
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| # ? May 12, 2024 11:31 |
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Why would you have to eat the cost? Tell them the car is not shifting properly and let them diagnose. It's why you have a warranty.
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Jan 7, 2013 21:50
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